Du-Rron

Right Rear Cyl is #3 . Try swapping coil electrical input connector from #3 to #1 coil. Cyl #1 is left rear. If now have spark at #3 then it was a not a bad coil. If still no spark check to see if innards of cap are corroded by taking apart with a screwdriver. Verify cap is screwed onto spark plug wire and clean.

Not just brand... (Shinko) but specific model (777). Anybody try the Shinko 777 series tire, which is a heavier duty lower speed rated tire than the 230 series?

There is a c-clip on the cush drive hub that you must remove. For lubrication, see here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?95242-To-Lube-or-Not-to-Lube-That-is-the-question

Cool!

As long as axle is flush on right hand side and you are not missing right hand washer and have tightened axle nut to 100-110 ft lbs, then it looks fine to me. The one thing I learned after the second time I put the wheel on was to lightly lubricate the big o-ring/washer located just behind the splines on the wheel drive on the wheel side. Makes pushing it back into the splines a lot easier.

Yeah, what all them said.

I bet with those two PCW springs and a full plate install that the clutch would operated like a light switch. On and Off. Feather the clutch? Fugedaboudit. How long did you ride with the two PCW's before deciding to change them out?

Did you do anything service wise to the clutch or the driveshaft/rear wheel?

Pics, movies, and DNA samples will be appreciated.

You will gently have to pry it off. It is also being held on by the magnets in the rotor.

Well I'd like to shake your hand and congrad..... no, wait a minute, you would probably crush my paw.

I believe yours has a diaphragm spring. This is what you want. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=60&title=first-gen-mkii-heavy-duty-clutch-springs-upgrade-kit&cat=17 PCW Racing makes an even thicker diaphragm spring. See here. http://www.pcwracing.net/

Cool Dealer!

I forgot about doubling down with the two diaphragm springs. I'll call that one, Stage 2.5

An Explanation Of Clutch Upgrades as I see it: Stage One = Replace Diaphragm Spring with heavier spring. Get to tow a little more. Keep Factory Clutch Feel and range. Stage Two = Replace Diaphragm Spring with Barnett Pressure Plate. Get to tow a little more. Keep Factory Clutch Feel and range with a little heavier pull at the lever. Stage Three = Replace Diaphragm Spring with heavier spring, lose the Belleville Washer and plain washer and wire, and install full friction disk. Get to tow a little more. Lose Factory Clutch Feel and range. Same pull as Stage One. Stage Four = Replace Diaphragm Spring with Barnett Pressure Plate, lose the Belleville Washer and plain washer and wire, and install full friction disk. Get to tow a little more. Lose Factory Clutch Feel and range. Same Pull as Stage Two. Stage Popeye = Replace Diaphragm Spring with Barnett Pressure Plate, Install Heavy Duty Barnett Springs. Loose the Belleville Washer and plain washer and wire, and install full friction disk. Get to tow still more. Now increasingly harder to keep front wheel on ground from all the weight you are now dragging behind you. U-Joints may now be the weak link. Lose Factory Clutch Feel. Forearms get larger as both hands are now required to pull clutch lever.

I have the Skydoc kit and I am still getting used to it. If you just replaced the diaphragm spring then you would get a higher clamping load and retain the feel of the factory clutch lever and get a little more tow weight before the clutch slips. Call this Stage One. If you use the full disk you will have a -touch- more friction disk area that will allow (diaphragm spring + increased surface friction disk area) to drag more weight than just the diaphragm spring by itself but will loose the factory clutch lever feel. Call this Stage Two. Like I say, I am still getting used to mine and I have not ruled out going back to the half disk with Belleville washer.

Okey dokey.

No, it is the Belleville washer (spring) that gives the wide friction zone. Once the diaphragm spring starts to overcome the Belleville washer's k-value ( spring constant) the clutch pak grips tighter. This distance gives the wide friction zone and provides damping. Also this actions makes the clutch plates move about 3/16" back and forth in the clutch basket which spreads the wear over a greater area in the clutch basket and helps to engage/disengage the clutch plates.

This is amazing as you have a 2012 RSV and I have a 2012 RSV, yet I can't get the PL14610 to fit without removing the regulator. Hmmmmmm. Also, the 3FV series Yamaha filter is the paper disk filter. Is that the original filter or have you bought a few from the dealer?

May I suggest that you try a Purolator PL14612 (yellow-short) filter as this is what folks have been using forever. If you would like to try something completely different, see here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?101114-Purolator-PL14459-Oil-Filter

Yeah..... they don't like us using their car filters on our bikes

Ichieee Waaa Waaa... a FRAM Filter?!?!?! a Fram PH7317 filter?!?!?!?!? If you have a 2009 Royal Start Venture then Fram recommends a PH6017A. I do not know what a PH7317 fits. Please don't put this filter on your bike.

Yes, in fact since its diameter is more than 1/2 inch greater than the PL14612 or the PL14610 it will hold A LOT more oil. More than even the PL14610 (long filter). Remember that it is > 1/2" wider for its entire height. Its circumference = diameter X Pi - or.... yes buckets full of oil. Plus since it is wider it is easier on the hands to get on and off. The white filter is shown below and this documentation is available from the Purolator website. The Pressure Differential Valve opens at (X) pressure on a filter when the filter element is clogged and can then flow no more oil through the element, or, your oil is so thick that the oil cannot properly flow through the element such as after a cold start, or, you have just gone from idle to full-wheelie mode from 1000rpm instantaneously to 5000 rpm and the oil on one side of the element has not yet reached equilibrium pressure with oil on the other side of the element. In these cases, the Pressure Differential Valve OPENS and keeps your engine from losing oil pressure or flow rate. You really never -*want*- the Pressure Differential Valve to open as it flows unfiltered oil to your engine and this is done as a last attempt to keep oil going to your engine and NOT being blocked by the oil filter. As soon as the pressure on one side of the filter comes to within (X) of the other side of the filter the Pressure Differential Valves closes and oil is then passed only through the filtering medium to your engine. Yamaha has a spec for this as shown in the post above. The PL14612/L14612 are on the high end of this spec. The PL14459 is in the medium area of this spec. The neat thing about all three of the Purolator Filters (or 6 if you count the white ones) is they all have a much higher flow rate than the factory Yamaha 5GH-13440-30 PL14459= Short FAT filter. Yup, holds more oil than the PL14612 at least as much as PL14610, and acres more than a PH6017A

All Btu's are not the same. Water cooling is more efficient and produces a cooler running bike with fewer internal hotspots. Also, water cooling lets you run a higher compression ratio without resorting to the premium swill (alcohol induced). At a standstill you would bake from the heat from my GS1100E from 5 feet away when it was 70 outside. On this RSV, while sitting atop of it in DFW last week when it was 87 I didn't notice a thing. I've gone back and forth between water cooled and air-cooled bikes. It usually worked out like this: Air cooled = Used, cheap, older, chain drive, sometime real fast. Water Cooled= New or newer, not so cheap, usually shaft unless chain drive sport bike, usually VERY fast (except for the RSV where comfort is king) I still can't believe that folks actually spend $27,000 (and more) for an AIR COOLED bike.

Dear Puc: See here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?99519-Clutch-Upgrade-using-Skydoc_17-Kit Also, the Belleville washer behind the wired in steel disk helps to *disengage* the clutch and helps to spread basket wear over a larger area of the basket since the clutch plates don't just sit there, they are actually moved around quite a bit by the Belleville washer. Also, with the Skydoc kit what everybody wants is the super duty diaphragm spring so that you can pull Mack Trucks without the clutch slipping. The downside is that lever travel to feather the clutch is practically no longer there. Takes some getting used to. Cheers!