Du-Rron

I have decided to replace my worn out Dunlops with Shinko 777 tires. Please note, NOT the Shinko 230 Series tires that wear out if you ride them around the block. I went with the Shinko 777 tire front and rear based upon: Pricing, availability, load range, and expected mileage. I ordered the tires from J&P Cycles. When they arrived I noticed these were the freshest tires I have ever bought for my car ,truck, or bike. The front Shinko 777 was made the 13 week of 2015 and the rear Shinko 777 was made the 15 week of 2015. It is now July, so that means that these tires are just 3 months old. I like the way the Shinko 777 tires look. I am sure that all tires ride well when new, but these Shinko 777 tires ride really well and have a "soft" ride as compared to the Dunlop 404's. The Shinko 777's seem "stickier" as well. As the result of changing two variables, new tires and going to a 130/90-16 front tire, or as a result of one or the other, the front end is now much lighter and the bike corners easier. So much so that I am over doing it, and I have to remember to calm down and not lean so hard to make the same turns I used to. Parking lot maneuvers don't take as much muscle either. Straight line 80mph stability with the Shinko 777 tires is still the same as it was with the Dunlop 404's, which is to say excellent. Here is a chart showing the differences between the Shinko 777 tires and the Dunlop 404 tires that were previously on the bike. MtireCompare.pdf

My bike has 8500 miles on it. Strangely, the front tire has worn completely out. There is less than 1/16 " till the wear bar is smooth and the tire has some sidewall cracking on it. The rear tire has plenty of tread left at 5/32" but has some minor sidewall cracking. Both tires are four years old and are OEM included on the bike at purchase. The rear tire I will be keeping as a "spare". I have decided to replace these with Shinko 777 tires.

Check strainer on fuel petcock. Much more than a teaspoon should come out with the hose off. Also, try test with gas cap off.

Part was replaced under warranty. There was no svc bul or recall on it. Yamaha knows about it though, that's why v2 of the cable exists.

Pic from 30 years ago. Towel on seat of V65 Sabre.

Notice the "bath towel" on the seat? Been doing this forever. Easily removable, washable.

On 2nd Gen, hit the SET switch once and then tap the resume switch twice. Mine locks in at that speed immediately. Also check for slack and possibly loose nut at cable attachment point on vacuum actuator.

Update: Recent rains have let the bike sit in the garage for 6 days. Before I attempted a start I measured the battery. It showed 12.72 volts. Almost a perfect charge. Put the key in and she started right up. I believe V2 of the Isimple cable has solved the flat battery problem.

Between those two tires, either will be much better than the Bridgestone.

Over 200ma draw with audio off and IPod disconnected on old cable = flat battery in 6 days. Will have to let the bike sit around for a few days with the new cable to see if it makes any difference.

The ISimple Gateway is what is on 2011 and newer RSV that allow for music from an IPod. It is a unit stored in left saddlebag.

With the recent rains and a new work schedule I have been riding the bike less. If I let it set for 6 days, the battery is flat and she will not crank. Audio Fuse powers radio memory, odometer memory, and ISimple unit when key is off. Key Off Draw was 220ma. Unplug ISimple unit and KOD went to 16ma. Dealer ordered another cable from DIN connector to ISimple unit. This is Version II of this cable. It has something in the middle of it. If battery voltage drops below 12.6 it is supposed to cut power to ISimple memory. (So the story goes). The original factory cable is on top. The V2 of the cable is on bottom. If your battery is flat after about six days with ISimple connected but will stay charged with ISimple disconnected, might want your dealer to look into Key Off Draw and explore getting a new ISimple power cable.

on my 2012 I run 2357A (yellow bulb) with one pin filed off to fit. The base is a three prong base. After I file the pin off, only one prong holds in the 2357A bulb

A picture maybe would help us guess at it.

Hooster: See here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?101114-Purolator-PL14459-Oil-Filter and here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?100874-Purolator-Oil-Filters-14610-amp-14612&p=903030#post903030 and here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?96009-Oil-Filter-Comparisons-Hey-I-m-no-Engineer and here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?95817-Crush-Washers

I don't see no picture of you or your bike in there anywhere... nyyyaaaa nyyyaaaa.

You would have to tell them that it no longer fits on your "Isuzu Rattlearound" instead of your motorcycle for them to care. Otherwise they will write you a nasty gram that says 14612/14610 were not designed to fit your bike in the first place.

This issue reared its' ugly head back on 4-5-15 see here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?100874-Purolator-Oil-Filters-14610-amp-14612 and at the time I believed that Purolator would not -just up and change- a filter design willy nilly. But, it seems they have. I am running the PL 14459 because it has some of the attributes mentioned above that I like. Course, like you, I'll be opening the box at the store to make sure the dimensions have not changed before I buy the filter.

Yeah, I kinda think my point was that the dealer should have known about this TSB and should not have spouted $$$$$ right off the bat scaring the hopitey out of a customer to the point of making that customer considering selling or parting out his bike. The dealer could have still made a dollar and had a satisfied customer by bringing up the shifting situation like we all have.

If you're willing to take the tank and the seat off, you will have better possibilities.

And Yamaha knows about this and says the following:

I know I have worn this out yall , but please, don't say in generalization that "Shinko's don't get any mileage." while specifically referring to a model of Dunlops. Usually when folks talk about Dunlops on here they call them out as "404's". When folks talk about Shinko's on here, they don't call them out, but I bet they mean the "230" models. The "230" model will not get any mileage as it is a V-Rated 9/32" tread depth super sticky tire. I also think that folks that have a RSV should not be running a rear Shinko Model 230 tire. Shinko makes another tire. The 777 series (Western Power Sports part #87-4590 ). This is a H-Rated, 11/32 inch tread depth, #80 load rated tire (992 lbs) that is still pretty sticky. I believe that this model, if you decide to run Shinko's at all, should be the one on the rear of your RSV. Shinko777Specs.pdf

I know I have worn this out yall , but please, don't say in generalization that "Shinko's don't get any mileage." while specifically referring to a model of Dunlops. Usually when folks talk about Dunlops on here they call them out as "404's". When folks talk about Shinko's on here, they don't call them out, but I bet they mean the "230" models. The "230" model will not get any mileage as it is a V-Rated 9/32" tread depth super sticky tire. I also think that folks that have a RSV should not be running a rear Shinko Model 230 tire. Shinko makes another tire. The 777 series (Western Power Sports part #87-4590 ). This is a H-Rated, 11/32 inch tread depth, #80 load rated tire (992 lbs) that is still pretty sticky. I believe that this model, if you decide to run Shinko's at all, should be the one on the rear of your RSV. Shinko777Specs.pdf

Yes it was a short. Relay, wiring, etc was the problem. The effects of the fire were caused by not having a fuse as close to the battery as possible, ie, if there were a fuse just 6 inches away from your positive connection, then that mass of wiring would still have done the same thing, been unoperational, but just not caught on fire as the fuse would have blown. Battery positive, then fuse as close as possible, then distribution block or relay, then individual circuit lower amperage fuse will make sure stuff doesn't catch on fire again.