The manufacturer prints the manual for the average mechanic. Going by the book assures that each bearing will be tightened to their standard by the use of a torque wrench. This method takes a couple of hours because you have to remove the fairing.
Then guys come along with a "better than average" skillset and develop shortcuts to save time, that trades on their skills to do the job correctly. In developing that "shortcut" the person thinks..."what is the minimum I have to move or get out of the way to get the job done". I dunno what skillset someone has when I answer a question, I just give them the best info I have, on jobs I have done, while trying to type and keep pizza off the keyboard.
By the book... the top clamp bolts are loosened (then clamp taken off then blah blah blah) in order not to have the top clamp act as a spring under pressure when the stem nut is tightened down. Freebirds published shortcut method does not loosen the bolts. My modified method loosens the bolts, and more closely aligns with the factory method, because I know that triple clamp should be at least .002" lower than when I started due to the bearing tightening down and the stem coming up. I want the top clamp free to move during the process and I will tighten the top fork clamp bolts down last. This additional step to the published shortcut takes less than a minute ( once you have a cut wrench to fit) to loosen the four bolts and assures upon reassembly that your bearing tightening will last due to the top clamp now sitting on the top adjuster lock nut.
Interestingly enough, the book tells you to loosen the bolts, but never tells you to tighten them back up during reassembly. Even the manufacturer can get a published process wrong I guess