Du-Rron

I think heat here is the problem. I am lucky to get 3 years out of a battery. When my old battery charger decided to die, the only reason I noticed it was that it was boiling the acid out of the battery. 32volts DC and a whopping 90 volts AC were going to the battery. It was a transformer charger. It killed a 1 year old battery.

Talk em down on price. DallasHonda has em for $9K.

As in "Deltran Battery Tender Plus" ?

Exactly, that is why I was looking at the Deltran and the Noco as they are smart chargers designed for AGM batteries and other batteries too. Hope my new charger lasts me over 30 years like my old one did.

Thanks! Interestingly enough, the Battery Charger that konked out was a Solar Brand. Lasted 33 years under all kind of conditions and all kinds of batteries. I liked it. The Solar you recommended is a "smart"' charger and that is what I am looking for.

I believe my Circa 1983 2/10/50 Battery Charger (wheeled) has seen its last battery. What Battery Charger should I buy to charge motorcycle and car/truck batteries? I'm looking at Deltran Battery Tender Plus and Noco Genius G3500 right now. What's your choice of these or any others I'd like to stay smaller physical size in a non-wheeled unit.

You should pull the driveshaft to lube the yoke splines. A little lube on the final drive would be good as well but the final drive end receives its' lube from the diff side oil. Lube on the oring on the final drive is a good thing. See here. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?95242-To-Lube-or-Not-to-Lube-That-is-the-question

These folks know nothing of what they are talking about. 1. Using pliers, wire cutters, or a hammer, release the pins from the connector. 2. Spread the female sides apart and sand paper the gold or tin plating from the connector. Sand the male sides as well. 3 Forget the di-electric grease either conductive or not. Spray liberally with Flex-Seal, the stuff you can use to make a boat out of a screen door with. 4. Reassemble the connectors together and crimp them together with the pliers. Forget about using molex connectors, just make them all direct. 5. To assure a weather tight connection, wrap with duct-tape for 3 inches either side of the pins being sure to triple wrap the actual connector part so that the wiring looks like a snake swallowed a bowling ball. 6. Done.

Take all the above advice to heart. Then, also go to the Small Business Administration http://www.sba.gov

See here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109912-How-far-have-you-driven-on-Reserve-Fuel Warning: This thread contains pics, gas tickets, and nudity.

Install the needle bearing with the manufacturers marks visible to you after install (pointed outwards ).

Harley Davidson Milwaukie 8 to require valve lash adjustments? The new Harley Davidson Milwaukie 8 engine uses four valve heads with pushrods and forked rocker arms operating the valves and a hydraulic valve lash adjuster located at the bottom of the pushrod riding on the cam. This is similar to the Yamaha Stratoliner/Roadliner/Raider 113cuin engine. Even though the Yamaha engine also has "hydraulically adjusted valves", you must still take the thing apart and adjust clearance between individual valves located on the same rocker. This adjustment is provided by a screw and locknut method. Looking at the Harley engine, it appears no method of adjusting the lash between valves located on the same rocker is provided for, since there is no screw and locknut located on the rocker. Will the Harley require manual valve lash adjustment between valves located on the same rocker? Will the 30,000 mile service require Harley to sell you a Stage 1 kit that will replace the solid roller-rocker with one that has screw/locknut arrangement to provide for valve lash adjustment? Am I looking at this right? New Harley Top End Yamaha Valve Adjust Method

It should self-center.

Lets remember to sync our gauges before we use them on the carbs. These are out of adjustment.

Get an oil that is JASO MA rated on the label and your clutch will not slip.

What kind of gauges do you use?

Welcome To The Club!

me too

Soldering in a new set of points is a viable option. Would probably last forever. If you want to get rid of points problem, then electronic pump is the way to go.

From @Raider58 install his pic shows two fittings and bolt it in. The electrical connection can be made by cutting off old fuel pump pigtail and splicing on to new fuel pump.

Facet Fuel Pump # 40178 has check valve and positive shut off/anti-syphon http://www.facet-purolator.com/cube-fuel-pumps.php FacetFuelPump40178.pdf CubeFlyer2011.pdf https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...FQ-IaQodfHMPxw

KEWL bike!

$5.00 per gallon Shell Rotella rebate. Redeemable on line without mail-ins. http://www.rotella.com/rebate