Du-Rron

And one of the big differences is $10,000.00 right off the bat. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?130047-2018-Star-Venture&p=1012757#post1012757

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?130047-2018-Star-Venture&p=1012757#post1012757

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?29772-RSV-Assembly-Manual

Cable 23 goes to the 3 way box.

Looks like they are calling it a STARTER CABLE. Which is unavailable. I bet one from a 2012 would work.

Pl14459 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?101114-Purolator-PL14459-Oil-Filter

Does it come with a trailer?

But is seems this conversation has moved away from the original question. Knipex & slip jaw wrenches were not part of the question.

I think you have it figured out. Side Note: Have you ever tried to replace that $6.00 ceramic cartridge in the leaking bathroom faucet only to find yourself knee deep into next week re-plumbing the entire house back to the mains? That is just part of home ownership. Have you just meant to put a little air in front tire of your motorcycle only to discover 2 days later that you now have the engine out of the frame laying on the floor in several large chunks? That is just part of motorcycle ownership. Once you open pandora's box you might as well step on in. (I refer to one of my tool boxes as Pandora's Box because once I open that tool box I know I am in for a long haul on whatever I am working on.) If it were my 20 year old motorcycle I would do the following: Yank the seat, tank, left exhaust and engine fins to get some elbow room. Rebuild the master, replace both hoses and rebuild or replace the slave. If you don't do the hydraulics all at once you will be poking on parts of it from handlebar to clutch, forever. Once you get the hydraulics back together bleeding the thing can test some folk's religion. While the left exhaust was on the floor getting lonely, I would yank the right exhaust also so the left exhaust could have some company. Since everything was out of the way, I would yank the rear wheel & swingarm. Grease the swingarm pivots & shafts, grease the swingarm bearings or replace them, and grease the driveshaft and hub splines. It is amazing how "just replacing a hose" can make your motorcycle ride like new.

I use OEM Yamaha 4WM-W0045 pads

The best I can find is for a 99 Boulevard XVZ13AL. The hoses shown in 2 fisches and are different part number. The top hose screws into the bottom hose.

The hose comes in two sections. The answer to your question is yes. However, if it is old enough to be leaking, or just old... replace the whole thing.

They are all trash. Too big and bulky to fit against flush heads and usually not enough swinging room to use them. They would not be my first tool of choice. Maybe pack one in the saddle bag and hope not to have to use it on anything.

The Toyota Rear Ends of the 70's - 80's must have been filled with the same stuff. Smelled astringently nasty (much worse than moly). Could not wash it off your hands. Kinda smelled like... poop. Never smelled Klotz that I can remember. My favorite now is Marvel Mystery Oil. Smells kinda like bubble gum. Will let you know on the fork oil change out.

Shoulda said the Rotella S4 ME series.

Since it is raining and I have nothing better to do... Fork Oil: Motorcycle manufacturers fill their forks at the factory with something slippery. In the old days, the manufacturers used to recommend other name brand oils, Automatic Transmission Fluid, and name brand Hydraulic fluid to refill the forks. After doing a little research, I found that nowadays Manufacturers recommend refilling the forks with their OWN Name Brand labeled oil. I believe that they recommend using their own labeled name brand oil due to marketing and $$$ and it has nothing to do with their own labeled name brand oil being any better for the forks than say... pancake syrup. Fork Oil comes in "Weights" but those "Weights" from brand to brand are not similar. The only way to compare them is to look at their Viscosity as reported by the manufacturer. When a hydraulic fluid is specified by the manufacturer, things become a little easier to compare. I found Bel-Ray is $11.00 for 16 ounces and is mostly light white mineral oil. bel-ray high performance fork oil 5w item 99300 us_english.pdf Castrol Fork Oil is also light white mineral oil . CasrolForkOil11067776.pdf CastrolForkOilBPXE-98RJMS.pdf I found I can obtain light white mineral oil in "hydraulic fluid" specification for $30.00 for five gallons @ Wal-Mart. That comes out to $0.75 for 16 ounces. On the other hand... Using what I have been using... ATF, specifically Mercon 5, which is a synthetic oil with antifoaming properties, and will really last a long time in Auto transmissions, so should last a long time in forks too (it does) from Wal-mart for $5.30 for 32 ounces. For a lighter weight I could use Dexron VI for $8.50 for 32 ounces. dexronvi.pdf Or for experimental purposes use Racing fluid for $14.00 for 32 ounces In any event I don't thinks forks have changed much in the past 40 or 50 years and I think their oil requirements are minimal at best. Before I did some research I was tempted to use 5W-20 motor oil in my RSV forks when the time came. However, now after some research I think I will be using Shell "Rotella" ME 32 as the Rotella line is synthetic, is sold at my local Tractor Supply, and I already have some in the shop.

no video

I have seen a lot of stuff used for "Fork Oil" as recommended by the motorcycle manufacturer, from motor oil to real hydraulic fluid and everything in between, with a lot of rocket science going into figuring out what "weight" the stuff really is based upon its "Name". ShellTell32.pdfShellTell32.pdf http://www.shell.com/business-customers/marine/marine-lubricants/hydraulic-systems.html I've always used ATF with good results. Just wanting to up my game and keep current with what is going on now. I don't normally keep "Fork Oil" on hand so it will be a stretch for me to use the stuff.

Thanks for the insite Puc. Never used anything but ATF before on forks and I was considering using 5W-20 in the RSV when the time comes around.

Hi jacking here... Would you use fork oil, 5w-20 motor oil, or Automatic Transmission Fluid nowadays?

Thought I'd have a shot anyway. 1. Remove turbo to air-filter tube. 2. remove bolt that holds AC receiver/dryer to fender and let it drop down. 3. remove oil filter. 4. when reinstalling oil filter I recommend filling filter with new oil.

See here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1067-A-list-of-known-problems-on-the-Second-Gen-Venture

See post number 40 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?130047-2018-Star-Venture/page3

I can't believe none of yall haven't lowered the boom on me for this one.

Those that I showed aren't too long. You compress them and insert them all the way into your ear. Heck... on me, if I push hard enough I can get one on one side to touch the other on the other side and meet in the center. Here they are. -30db https://www.esafetysupplies.com/collections/uncorded-earplugs/products/moldex-single-use-mellows-tapered-foam-uncorded-earplugs-200-pair-per-box