Du-Rron

Yes that is correct, and Marcarl also helped to electrify that point in a previous post (number 6 above) and to verify, that indeed it will, keep the fleas off your dog by its correct installation.

Front Product Number 87-4605 150/80-16 Shinko 777 HD WhiteWall Rear Product Number 87-4591 150/90-15 Shinko 777 HD WhiteWall

The Flywheel/Rotor bolts to the crankshaft. And here is the Flywheel/Rotor bolt with the hole in the center of it. These pics are available from https://www.shopyamaha.com/ parts catalog

If you did not pull the flywheel off then somebody must have before you if you bought the bike 2nd hand and then just threw the shaft back in there!?!?! It goes in the center of the flywheel bolt. Like so.

Check page 4-9 & 6-29 of your owners manual... No info shown on anything I have in the situation of "Kill switch off and kickstand down".

If you leave that shaft out the motorcycle will fall apart and your dog will get fleas

I like the Shinko 777's myself.

Metzler ME888 tires talked about @ 6:39 and Shinko 777 tires talked about @ 7:26

You can get the whole owners manual for free from Yamaha @ https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/motorsports/owners-manuals

Are not the factory tires radials? Those have stiff sidewalls. The Shinkos 777's are belted-bias. If you are going to run the Shinko 777's I would run them at max sidewall pressure to keep their deflection to a minimum. Another option is to next time order a 150/80-16 or 170/70-16

I think I have to look at land in your area for retirement.

Convection Oven...

It is HOT here. Nevermind the discussion about your air cooled bike riding Hot. They are all riding hot. I can tell you that sitting at a traffic light for 60 seconds will melt the elastic in your underwear. If you follow a truck, the heat, plus the heat the truck is putting out will un stand able. You have to get into clean air when ever you can. By the way, the hottest place on an RSV is the right foot when rolling and your entire body when stopped. You do not get engine heat, but that fan will kick on in about 1 minute and fry your &^#$. The trick is to get rolling and not let the fan come on. https://v4biker.tumblr.com/post/176242845541/san-angelo-is-soooo-hot

We know that the word "FUSE" above is meant to be FUEL. Now, punching holes in the neck is highly recommended... by me anyways... On regular fueling stops where I am just trying to get gas in the thing, I can fill it up quickly without it burping fuel out at me. The holes act as air-relief so the trapped air at the top doesn't back up. I don't try to pack max fuel in on these stops. On trip fueling stops where I try to pack max fuel in, I feel I can get 0.5 gallons more in there than I otherwise could. That last 0.5 gallons is added slowly so I don't burp any fuel out. I never refuel to max level, then stop riding, as the fuel will puke out the overflow due to the fuel heating up and expanding. I continue riding after max fueling stops.

Oh yes there is. Please ALWAYS keep it in the ON position and remember to reset it back to the ON position after refueling. Sometimes I just do not look at the gauges... So the "Bars" and the "Idiot Lights" don't do anything for me. Sometimes fuel mileage is lower than expected. Leaving the petcock in the ON position so that you can then switch to RESERVE gives you some physical options at that particular place at that particular time you may not otherwise have. Here is an example. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109912-How-far-have-you-driven-on-Reserve-Fuel

I only find T5 in 10W-30 so I would not run that in anything I have.

it was 106 last night at 9pm in the dark.

(T6 is 5W-40... ) The good news is that it is so hot it is keeping the bugs grounded here. Ever notice your windshield is cleaner this time of year?

... "Mostly Sunny".... Yeah right.... It is so freaking hot here and those air-cooled scoots run so hot, the only thing I can recommend is the squeezings left over from McDonalds French Fry machine that is stored in the blue dumpster out back behind the Mcdonald's awaiting recycle. I think it is made up of partially melted plastic. That goo is about 130 weight and cannot be destroyed by heat (or anything else known to man). You have to pick the stuff up at night... kinda on the sly... and the bonus is that it is absolutely free and your scoot will smell like a French fry machine as long as you use it. :225::225::225:

Yes... you can re-anneal copper. However, the place I work requires a "Hot Work Permit" along with a "24 hour Safety Watch" every time somebody wants to drag out the hot wrench. The shop is not going to go through this hassle or liability for a $0.25 part. They will just use the new part. I get it that the only folks that use new crush washers every time are me, and the original equipment manufacturers that stick the crush washers on their equipment in the 1st place, and if I stopped using new crush washers the manufacturers of the crush washers would go broke due to lack of business. I've been doing what I've been doing for quite a while now and I cannot remember any manufacturer approved training program ever telling me to reuse a crush washer, but I do remember several of them telling me specifically not to. The things are so darn cheap it is hard for me to think of a reason not to replace them with new ones each time. Lookie... I'm glad yall got no leakies, stripped threads, or cracked cases from the practices yall use. The above are the practices I use and this got started cause a guy wanted to replace his washers during his oil change. I am obviously a believer in doing this and was trying to help him do so. I don't want him to listen to the little devils on his shoulder, telling him that it is okay not to replace them with new washers.

These are called hollow alluminum crush washers and they are part number 25 But, I would measure the inside diameter of these washers and get some plain aluminum crush washers from the auto parts store for a fraction of the cost. also see this http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?95817-Crush-Washers

Oh hell.... here we go... from the owners manual... page 9-15 and to throw a wrench into matters... the service manual page 3-23 Copper is usually for higher pressure (like brake banjos) or for stuff that expands-shrinks, vibrates a whole lot (like an Air-Cooled engine). Aluminum is cheaper, usually for lower pressure, will not stand much expansion-contraction. They are both cheaper than what they are sealing and I actual do replace them every single time on any piece of equipment that uses them.