Du-Rron

That's kinda what I mean. Those companies can engineer to the standard, just not submit, pass, and pay for the licensing fee. They can say that they are JASO rated... but not really. Quicksilver addresses that topic in their advertising. http://goqcrew.com/powersports-lubricants-why-jaso/ then page down Now, those oils, Victory/Polaris, probably will pass JASO just fine and are very good to use, especially since Vics and Indians have wet clutches. They just haven't walked the walk like everybody else on the 40+ page list. But I digress as well. The only reason I brought up (cough cough rotella cough) is because they have changed their formulation so much. I was a believer and I drank the kool-aid as well and used Rotella for years in non-diesel applications because it was also API SN Rated. But, no more. It no longer is SN rated, and I have moved on just like they have. I also cannot blame them for going after their current diesel market with their current diesel oil. I enjoyed using their product for years. Now, we are in the mix-up. The new Rotella is on the left, the old Rotella is on the right.

Can't find Rotella anywhere on the current list of JASO licensed oils. http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf New Manual http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/jaso_e-2.htm

Harley PREFERS you to use their oil and to have the bike serviced at the dealership. They cannot require either to maintain warranty coverage. In the event you have non-Harley in your scoot, as per the owners manual, you can always say, as per the owners manual, "you have not had an opportunity"....

The manufacturer cannot specify a BRAND of oil to use anymore than they can specify a BRAND of gasoline to use. They can only require you to use a certain SPECIFICATION of product (oil) ie.. API SG or better with a JASO spec of MA or better. Plenty of oils out there that you can buy that meet and/or exceed the manufacturers spec that will maintain your warranty. Quicksilver Oil is one of them. Side Note: I run AUTOMOBILE oil filters on my motorcycles. Yeeeee Haaaaaa. But, thank you for your concern and it was an excellent question that other folks may be wondering about as well. You don't have to use Ford oil on Fords, or Yamaha oil on Yamahas, or Toyota oil on Toyotas, to maintain warranty coverage.

A couple of things impressed me: 1. In their ad above they don't just say that they are better than some "leading brands", they call 'em out by name. Lucas & Amzoil. 2. They submit and pass, and then pay for JASO licensing standards, unlike some other oils that do not (cough cough rotella cough) 3. The oil is bottled/speced by Mercury Marine (see back of label) and is sold at the same place where they sell motorcycles & $100K+ stern drives. 4. Wow, they sell the same oil at Walmart. I change oil this Saturday. I'll let you know how it goes.

Allow me... Page 11-1

Starting today, I am going to try Quicksilver Full Synthetic Motorcycle oil in the 10W-40 variety. For all you new owners of the SVTC you may want to give it a try in the 20W-50 formula which is JASO MA2 rated. (Mobil1 20W-50 no longer carries the Jaso rating on their 20W-50 oil). I bought mine at Wal-Mart for $7.98 a qt. The 20W-50 is available by the gallon for less. Here is page 30 excerpted from the full JASO list with the Quicksilver Oil Hilighted in yellow.. JASOpage30.pdf Here is the full listing of JASO oils. http://www.jalos.or.jp/onfile/pdf/4T_EV_LIST.pdf

So if you are on a 1989 Venture Royal that means you have been riding around on a 29 year old virgin!!! Well.... no more!!!!! Welcome to the club!!!!!

Outside of an onboard GPS, what makes the SVTC kick the butt of the Kawasaki Voyager? I have ridden the Voyager. I have not ridden the SVTC.

Unfortunately, Jap bike, German Bike, and Victorys have historically been notorious for NOT making spare parts readily available. However, if you have a Harley, the dealer can build you another bike the same afternoon with parts he has around the dealership, including crate engines & frames.

Bottom the bushing on the shoulder of the tube. You will hear it change sounds once it is all the way down. Use blue loctite (medium) on the damper rod bolt.

I wasn't picking an aesthetic answer to the question of 2nd Gen vs 3rd Gen. I was offering a mathematical observational answer in that the current bike, a 2nd Gen RSV, (which he says he loves and is probably paid for) has 15k miles on it. Other than the grass being on the other side of the fence, seems no reason he offered for him to get rid of the RSV for the 3rd Gen or any other bike.

Sticking my nose in here. If you love the 2nd gen and it only has 15K on it (that is like its 4th oil change and 2nd set of tires tops) may want to consider her a keeper.

OK... the bike is no longer virgin. At least you got that over with. Do not just super glue it back together. The repair depends if you want to get your insurance company involved or not, how good your eye is, and how well you can do body/frame work, as the correct repair may well involve total parts replacement costing several hundred dollars. The "ENGINE GUARD 1" flexed/bent during the fall and the "BODY, FRONT LOWER 1" cracked/broke. If you can re-bend the engine guard exactly back to the point it was before the fall, then you can reuse the engine guard, otherwise it will have to be replaced. If you don't fix this part here you will never keep the plastic from cracking because it will always be under stress. Polishing out scratches and rechrome are optional as they are not structural. You can ABS GLUE (obtained from Lowes or Home Depot) the plastic "BODY, FRONT LOWER 1" (we call them lowers) back together, or get your auto favorite body shop to do so, or replace the part entirely. The replacement, which easily bolt on/off, new in in the box from Yamaha, come prepainted. I'm not saying you have to buy new from Yamaha. However, if you get your insurer involved they probably will. If you decide upon used parts replacement, any scratches on the engine guard, however light, may well disqualify it for purchase because it may be bent as the result of a tip over as well.

It's not normal. Marcarl got it right. Carb Synch first.

Glad to help out. I would still get with your dealer and Yamaha Customer Service to at least get a free bolt, washer, and cover gasket out of the deal. Maybe even installed by the dealer with some kind of extended factory warranty. Really Yamaha? No bolt from the factory?!?!?

I edited your own picture to show you where YOUR KEYWAY is machined into YOUR ROTOR that fits over the woodruff key. This will show you that the hex on the end of that rotor is not for spinning it on the crankshaft in an attempt to tighten it on there, but to KEY the rotor to the crank to keep it from transmitting spinning forces to the bolt that is missing. The rotor, once the woodruff key is installed, can only move in a horizontal manner parallel to the crankshaft once it is installed correctly on the taper and locked. The bolt keeps it from breaking taper lock and coming off. Apparently, after 28000 miles, with bolt missing, it is still locked on there by its taper press fit. WOW!!! There is no way I would put it back together like that. Keep us informed!

Pinch bolts where? Wheel? Lower Tree? Upper Tree? How many miles are on your bike? neato comment above about Harley dealers knowing loose bolts ;>)

Here is a pictures of the bolt and pin It goes together as shown in post number 11 above and the bolt is hollow and looks like this once all put together. Except this shot shows the hollow bolt but is missing the pin sticking out. Ignore the color circle drawings in this pic as they were discussing a starter from the place I got this pic. This pic is off a Vmax which is real close to ours. If you bought this bike brand new. No one else has been into it. I would discuss this with the dealer. While the rotor is a press fit on there, it is spinning around at engine speed without being bolted on. If it decides to come loose at 3000 rpm it WILL come through the case. That hex you see at the end of the rotor is not to turn it on to threads, but there to hold it with a wrench, and to bar the engine. There is a woodruff key on the crank that keeps the rotor from spinning and locks the rotor to the crank. If the bike was new and has no threads in the crank and there is no evidence of machine work or stripping the threads out then I bet Yamaha will kick in a new crank, (even after all these years) just to keep a rotor missle from coming through the case. Please be sure to take one more real good picture up inside the crankshaft showing "no threads" so that you can show it to Yamaha and your dealer. Do not put the bike back together. I hope other mechanically inclined Venture Riders will chime in here.

Ohhhhhh my gawd! You are actually missing the bolt that goes in the center of the rotor. The only thing holding that rotor on is its will power. There MUST be some threads down the center of that hole. Its the crankshaft. Do NOT put this back together without bolting the rotor down.

See Here ThrottleGRIP.pdf

Th' suspense is killin' me.

Ouch

TWO motorcycles... $500 deductable. $249 a YEAR, MARKEL INSURANCE

See if your local motorcycle shop will match prices with the online stores (mine did as there is only one distributor for Shinko Tires) and then see what you can get a package install price for at that dealership. That way everybody wins and you get to throw a few dollars to the local economy where you live.