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Du-Rron

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Everything posted by Du-Rron

  1. If JASO rating is not on the website, or on the bottle, or on their product guide for their V-twin 20W-50 oil then I would advise against using it. The 2nd Gen Yamaha Royal Star Venture is not, never was, ...never will be (see below)... an air-cooled V-twin. I live in a sweltering hot climate and I stand by recommending SAE 10W-40 oil in our water-cooled thermostat controlled V-4, in at least an API SH rating and of course carrying the JASO rating MA or MA2. (...never will be): The 3rd Gen Venture, WHOOPS, IS an air-cooled V-twin!!! And still those guys that have been previously swilling Mobil 1 in their other bikes will not touch Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin oil in their $27,000 3rd Gen Venture motorcycle because it is not JASO rated. Cannot blame them.
  2. Okie dokie got a few things here... 1. I would give up on using Mobil 1 20W-50 V-twin oil as it is no longer JASO rated. What oil would I run you ask? Well I live in Texas in the 7th hottest city in the nation according to msn.com and I still run 10W-40 oil. I have used several brands. Currently I use QUICKSILVER Synthetic that I get at Wal-mart. I am not a stickler about keeping with a brand. What I believe is a top priority is that you run an oil that is SAE 10W-40 at least API SH and must be JASO rated MA. I prefer a synthetic. 2. I understand about the clutch slipping thing. Mine slipped when I had 6K miles on it (all of them are bad about that I hear) and that is when I put the skydoc spring upgrade on it. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?99519-Clutch-Upgrade-using-Skydoc_17-Kit now, no more slip fully loaded. 3. About selling the bike. I know. I was thinking about it. This company came out with another motorcycle that sounded like an upgrade but I remain unconvinced. My 2012 Royal Star Venture has a build quality like no other. No j-nuts holding stuff on. An engineer calculated where a hole was to be drilled, welded a nut behind it, and had the mating part bolt hole match fitted to it. Quality done. Cheap no. Chrome plating on it everywhere. Chrome forks, not chrome fork covers. This has to cost an extra penny or two during manufacture. It's big. It towers over most other motorcycles. It's comfortable. This thing flat out fly's down the highway and will pass anything but a gas station. It will carry me, my wife, and a trailer at speeds that I sometimes fear to travel at. And smooth..... only my truck is smoother. No zippy electronics. or ride modes, or proportioned brakes, or hecu pumps means nothing to break and nothing to fix. All the electronics, music, and gps I need are in my phone. AIN'T NO WAY I'M SELLING MY ROYAL STAR VENTURE!!!
  3. This is good news as it confirms that everything internally is working smoothly and that no case splitting will be required. Look to EXTERNAL things like the shift shaft, shifter, pedal, heim joints, for your problems. Even lubricating those parts may solve your problems. I had a heim joint come unbradded and was replaced under warranty that screwed my shifting up. https://v4biker.tumblr.com/post/137722185652/ball-joint-loose Also, by you just changing your oil, you may have also solved the problem. It is one of the causes listed in the chart.
  4. STOMPING on it very forcefully will bend a fork and may break an ear off one of the forks. Is there some crunching you can feel while shifting? Take the shift cam retainer and the shift cam off (no case splitting) and rotate by hand and see what you feel. If smooth, look to a bent shift shaft, shifter assembly (cheap, no case splitting).
  5. Something stuck in your shift drum causing not full rotation???
  6. Well... I knew it all the time yeah...... 10-4. Good job there yank... Dilly Dilly!!!
  7. Your brake pads are cattywhompus in the caliper. Remove the pads. Clean the pistons. Compress the psitons. Put the bracket and caliper back on then put the pads back on.
  8. Yeah, the tree and the forks and the axle are all thicker than the brace. Just run it without the brace to see if there is any difference. You can put it back on when you are done.
  9. I did not see you mention checking the neck bearings. Didja? Take the superbrace off and see how it works...
  10. Check to make sure that you have coolant in the coolant bottle. Like everybody else said... If you smell it, you have a leak. The bike may not be running hot yet as it still has coolant to swill. However, once it has leaked that coolant... then it will run hot. Check the front end area first (open to rocks) and work your way back.
  11. https://ridermagazine.com/2018/09/13/riders-2018-motorcycle-of-the-year/
  12. I have a Kaw VN900C that I put the Quicksilver in also. Nothing has blown up yet. Seems to work as well as the T6.
  13. Pretty interesting chart. I will mention: I am running Shinko 777's. They are the freshest tires I have ever bought from anybody in that their manufacturing date was real close to the date I got them in my hand. I have had no balancing problems and they have taken less weight to balance than the OEM tires. They stick to the road very well and seem to have a softer ride than the OEM tires. They do not "sing" to you when making a hi-speed turn like some other tires do. for their size they can handle more weight then the OEM tires.
  14. It is labeled as a "Full Symthetic" so I dunno what to say about that. Just looking to replace my beloved T6 so don't need the most uber oil available as long as it works as least as well as the T6. The price is right there with the T6 and I can buy the Quicksilver while I am at the same store buying my underwear, Dr. Pepper & Cheetos. We will see how it works in a few thousand miles, but I have a feeling that it is gonna be okay. I know a guy currently that buys his oil based upon whatever is on sale at the local conveinience store, runs his bikes for a couple hundred thousand miles each, and has never had an oil related failure. I myself, a long, long, long time ago was a habitual user of Castrol GTX 10W-40 & 20W-50 before synthetic oil was in vogue and had excellent results from it as well. I decided long ago to give up "conventional oil" even though its ratings would meet/pass manufacturers specs. T6 for me was the sweet spot of pricing, availability, and just plain working. I have absolutely no doubt that the Yamalube group IV/V oil will blow away most anything out there in lab performance, but I feel it misses the marks for me in terms of pricing and availability As with everything else, if they can get the price down a few more dollars and up the availability factor to a wal-mart level, and still be a group Iv/V oil, then I will beat a path to the door. Please temper what I have said knowing that I would have no problem switching back to Castrol GTX 10W-40 (abiut $17.00 gallon) and just doing oil changes every 2K miles.
  15. OK... Changed oil this weekend. From: Rotella T6 5W-40 oil formulation that still had SN on the bottle. To: Quicksilver Synthetic 10W-40. Today is Tuesday and I have driven it about 100 miles since the oil change. I can tell you that I have noticed... nothing. Still shifts well. Maybe on the outside chance it is 1 decibel quieter, just maybe, but that just may be a mental thing since the 10W-40 Quicksilver is just a touch thicker than the Rotella T6 5W-40 when pouring it in @ 82 degrees. We will see how the stuff is next summer when it is 100+ around here. I see no downsides to the Quicksilver oil vs the Rotella T6. Upside is: Motorcycle rated synthetic JASO oil, wide availability at Wal-Mart for median price, also carried by my Powersports dealer.
  16. Page 2-4 of your owners manual Pulling a trailer will not invalidate your factory 1 year warranty, but will destroy your subsequent 4 year service contract. Cause and effect does not have to be proven under a service contract.
  17. At the top right of the screen is a SEARCH box with a magnafiying glass. Type TIRES in there and watch what pops up.
  18. I ride nekked. Remember... Puc is my mentor. Also... as per his instructions... I always have a pair of shoes and a shirt with me just in case...
  19. Royal Star what? Venture? If so, and it is 95 or above, my right foot will often warm up on the highway. I call it "Satan's Breath" on my foot. Happens most often with a little crosswind as well.
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