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Everything posted by Du-Rron
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Recently rode some Can Am products. Did you know that the 3 wheel Spyders have power steering? I maybe could get used to that.
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One big a$$ nut torqued to a couple hundred ft lbs and a visual safety clip holding it on. Think... Panigale
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Yowzer yowzer yowzer step right up. It is an emission thing and a wet clutch thing that makes SOME motorcycles tricky to buy oil for. When you combine the Engine and the Transmission and make them run in the same oil things can get complicated. Harleys don't have this problem. They can run Slick50GreasySpikeSuperMoly in the engine and ATF in the clutch and neither cares about the other. However, when you run loaded flat-tappets and a clutch in the same oil, you have to be more picky about your oil. Looking at the above you will notice that ON-ROAD normal zinc levels for cars,trucks is from 800 to 1200 in ZINC. But... motorcycles are only about 1100 in zinc. WHUT??? Well if you get a lot of ZINC & MOLY in your oil your clutch will not like it. Look at the BREAK-IN OIL at 3600 ppm in ZINC. Wow, your cams would polish out nicely but you would not get anywhere because your clutch would be slipping so badly. If you added the TBPLUS ZINC OIL ADDITIVE at 31000 ppm in ZINC, you would have to chase your motorcycle across the street when the ignition was off it would be so slippery. Remember the folks trying to grip a screwdriver freshly dipped into STP??? You get the idea. Now, only SOME motorcycles are so picky about their oil to keep their cams in their guts. The Yamaha V-4 is not that picky about its oil. It wants something around the old SH flavor or above with a hint of JASO to keep the clutch happy. Tackifiers: All oils have em... part of the package.
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Installed the clutch in your what?...Harley? This is a different conversation. However, they were telling you to use a JASO oil, like Quicksilver. DO NOT use the formula plus Harley oil. Anyways, this a different topic altogether and vague statements only serve to muddy the water.
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Seems in the past few years we have failed to come to terms on what is the best: oil, tires, and filters. We have been waiting for you. Welcome back!
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If you get the chance, go ride the new Can Am RYKER. It is a hoot. Comes in 600 & 900cc. Yes, it does sound like a boat engine. However, Can Am is committed to them. My dealer has six of them in both sizes plus all the accessories that goes along with them. Checking other dealers, they have a passle of them as well. This is a lot different than the -one- unit per dealer Venture allocation Yamaha rolled out. Just saying.
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I think we went back and forth on this a lot so I dunno why he just recently posted the video. Thought we had it all wrapped up on 5-20-18 https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?136259-It-pays-to-purchase-the-already-printed-Service-Manaul&p=1037737#post1037737 starting around post 17. Oh yeah... and you know me... I couldn't resist... I made the same comment on his Youtube video. Just tryin to help
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Sometimes I can't keep my mouth shut..... Valve clearance should be zero to 0.0016 maximum. Premise is to set both to get as close to zero as possible letting hydraulic lifter do the compensating. Do not need feeler gauge at all. Touch down adjuster lightly without raising clearance on other valve. Tighten locknut.
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https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?138309-Quicksilver-Oil-10W-40-amp-20W-50-JASO-rated https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?139116-Monthly-JASO-Oil-List
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Say what?
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Maybe it looks better in Video. Just trying to educate others (not you) what not to do to little AGM batteries.
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Your "Battery Tender Plus" is a smart charger with a two step charging process. By the way... "Battery Tender" is like "Coke" even if you are drinking Dr. Pepper. Some other folks might have something they think is a real "Battery Tender" but it is not.
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16,000 mile check
Du-Rron replied to RonK's topic in Star Venture and Eluder Tech Talk ( '18 - Present)
Well... how much do you weigh..... now??? -
Dear @leo3wheel and @MiCarl I deal with Yuasa and Powersonic batteries a lot. Included are "Best Practices" hi-lights to getting 13 standing volts out of your battery and having it last lots of years. This info is from the manufacturer. There is no doubt that "old sparky" or a $30.00 Harbor Freight charger throwing 12.8 volts can ignite an AGM battery every now and then, with "no problems", but it will not stand a chance of safely doing so dependably, hundreds of times, like a Deltran 4 bank $600 charger the dealership uses. I know that the answer you give someone depends on their position of use, but if they have no tools yet at all, might as well steer them away from a $30.00 harbor freight manual charger and towards a $70 (something smart charger your favorite brand here) from Wal-mart. Here are some "Best Practices" from the manufacturers I deal with. The "over 16 volt" is true only if you have a charger capable of throwing that much voltage (usually a smart charger) while cutting the amps next to nothing. .
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No modifications to your motorcycle charging system is necessary. If your battery tender will not work on it, the battery may be "undervolt" and not sensed by the battery tender. Do you have a volt meter? What is the voltage of the battery now? Did you buy the battery dry or did you have to add acid to it? What is the manufacturer, make, model of battery you bought? No diodes required anywhere.
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Dear @leo3wheel and @MiCarl Gee guys... I thought you would give me a pass on this one since I did include the data sheet on it. However, I guess that we want to deal in absolutes nowadays, so pardon me, I SHOULD have said, FOR BEST RESULTS... blah blah blah. But, I was trying to give this guy @tj3777 the "best" answer I had, with no qualifications according to the manufacturer. I know that you have charged up an AGM or two with old sparkey, with "no problems" but, I was trying to plant a seed of correct agm battery charging from someone asking a question about it. Lets try again. If @ 70 degrees F your battery does not produce 12.8 to 13 volts after sitting around a couple hours, then you could have done better on your initial charging. Let me get your attention now class. If you want blown up, swelling batteries, hook them up to a manual 10 amp charger and walk away. Come back tomorrow and this is what you will find. You may not be able to tell from the pictures, but, these formerly rectangle shaped batteries are now more spheroid. These babies got nasty hot and had an internal meltdown suffered from a manual charger. A car battery, similar to the one say in a toyota corolla, would have/could have easily withstood this abuse metted out by this charger, but not these poor little AGM batteries. These batteries are the same size, YTX20HL-BS that goes in our RSV's. So, keep your hi-amp (greater then three) manual car chargers away from them please. Next post will answer @leo3wheel and @MiCarl and @tj3777 as I believe I have run out of space here.
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Your new AGM battery, unless factory activated, will need a battery charger with an AGM setting on it, or one capable of properly "Activating" an AGM battery. Goto PowerSonic or Yuasa for details. Basic need is to throw 14.7 volts and keep at that way till amps fall to 1. See basic chart included. Your RSV will not damage an AGM battery with a properly functioning regulator/rectifier. Next to impossible to "overcharge" the AGM battery on the RSV.
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Is this AC volts at the headlight?
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- electrical
- headlight
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add a condensor to absorb the voltage so it doesn't jump the gap when the points are open (damaging the points) and replace worn rubbing block that was not opening points all the way. Could add a condensor to the RSV, cant really adjust the gap because the pump stroke is the points gap. Yes... No... I'll gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today...