Du-Rron

they ever put a shaft drive on a H2 or an Aprilla and I am uncorking the 401K.

You did get that this is no track bike. This is a streetbike that YOU can buy. It has working headlight, turnsignals, and even a place to bolt a license plate. And... oh yeah... the carbon fiber brake ducts to delay the onset of ... "brake fade"... WOW!

:rotf::rotf:

Just to see how the other V-4's live... how about 5th gear wheelies at 193mph as you shift into sixth? https://www.cycleworld.com/2019-aprilia-rsv4-1100-factory-first-ride-review When is the last time you read a motorcycle review where "brake fade" was a real concern?

:rotf::rotf:

If it were not for folks telling you, "Use T6", would you? Is there any thing printed on that bottle that lends itself to specific motorcycle use vs the numerous things printed on "motorcycle oil" bottles? A CK4/CK+ diesel oil would/should have more resistance to shear than a non-diesel oil which is good for your motorcycle transmission. Does your transmission snick off gears nicely on T6? I thought mine did till I tried other "motorcycle specific" oils and now my bike shifts very nicely indeed. Rotella T6 no longer carries an API spark ignition engine designation due to emission regulations on additives. These additives have gotten lower in quantity as the API levels have gone up. Rotella is not even trying for the gasoline powered engine market with T6. The best oil for your motorcycle is one designated as API SH to API SL. Politics has pulled all the good stuff out of the oil that our bikes need at the API SN level. Emission regulations let manufacturers add the good stuff back in if they rate the oil lower on the API scale, like API SH. And... motorcycle specific oils start their ratings about the SH level. JASO RATINGS: Well, Jaso ratings are un-needed on oils in the API SH to API SJ range because there were no "energy conserving" oils that contained added "moly" or "slip" additives during that time period. Castrol 10W-40 API SJ would do you just fine back then. Today, Castrol 10W-40 still containes no clutch destroying "slip" or "energy conserving" additives but I would probably not run it in a motorcycle because it is so low in zinc and phosphorus as shown by its API SN rating. That Rotells maintains an unverifyable JASO MA/MA2 rating on the bottle is meaningless. It just means that they have added no "moly" or "slip" additive package to the oiil which would kill a wet clutch. (By the way... I do believe them on this because they have taken so many other additives out as well for emission purposes) PRICE: "Motorcycle Specific" oils may or may not cost you more depending on how and where you do your shopping. I figure my last oil change using "motorcycle specific" oil cost about $7.00 total for the oil vs T6. But... if you are truly anal about this stuff, what is 7 bucks an oil change or $28.00 a year to you? You could gain some improved shifting........(a possibility). BRAND OF OIL: I am not recommending a specific brand of "motorcycle oil" to replace T6. Get funky, live life, Buy something wildly synthetic on sale to help justify your switch. I am just saying to use a "motorcycle specific" oil vs the current iteration of T6.

:sign20::rotf:

Thanks. Matte colors are not for me. I want a white one and I am trying to figure out of the "pearl" version is the gloss, which is the one I want. I have had two different HJC's recently and they both fit the same and I wear an XL them with a 61-62cm noggin. I figured the RPHA 90 would be a tight race fit in an XL (which is what I want) at the listed size of 60-61cm. If they fit the same as HJC size to size chart I think I will be okay. C3 Size RPHA90 size This may be a long drawn out deal as I will have to orderlocal/mail order this helmet and hope to get it right first time around. No dealer within 300 miles of me stocks one for me to try on. I also buy a second set of cheek pads and helmet liner when I get a new helmet. I am pleased to see that HJC makes these available and that my dealer and places like revzilla and helmethouse have these IN STOCK and available for purchase. Other helmet manufacturers could learn a thing or two from HJC in the excellent way HJC support their helmets.

I have been eyeballing the RPHA 90. Think I will jump and get one. Thanks for your review. The "quiet" part and "using less volume at all speeds" helped to sell it to me.

What was that saying??? I am trying to remember... If it has *its or *ires it is bound to give you trouble.... Yeah... that's the one... I seriously *hought *wice before posting *his. Probably shoulda *hought *hrice...

Take the screws out (22 in the pic) and apply some hi-vacuum grease/silicone grease (just a dab) to the topside of the valve. Lubricate the "packing" with a drop or two of 90W gear oil. Make sure everything is clean and does not have any junk in it. It will be hard to turn if it has a chunk of rust in it. Oh yeah... take tank off bike with it almost empty and elevate fuel tap to topside before working on it. Don't let gas drool out of gas cap either, keep it UP as well.

What does the other end of the grip look like?

Thanks for the input. In the past couple of years I have gotten so lazy I have ordered gobs of stuff from Amazon, Walmart, Petsmart, and HEB (yeah, the grocery store) all delivered to my door. So far there have only been three problems and all have been resolved lickity split by the offending vendor. One before I even knew it -was- a problem.

Was in Walmart and they seem to have a slim to none supply of super tech motorcycle oil on the shelf. Didn't need any right now but got home and got to looking. They will deliver the Quicksilver oil (which is the stuff I tried before and I really liked) to me mailorder by the quart or gallon. Just thought I would let yall know. This is not amazon. this is walmart.com

I don't know anything about 1st gen Ventures. But, on a lean drop idle, if you can't get it, you have to replace, yes replace, the pilot screws cause something is wrong with them. And, maybe... the pilot jets are not as clean as you may think either. Here is a lean drop from another bike as an example. ignore the 3 3/8 turns out to start if that won't work for you. The above is for a pilot screw that adjusts for AIR. You will need to screw IN to adjust for GAS like in the Venture

https://www.txdmv.gov/motorists/buying-or-selling-a-vehicle/out-of-state-and-foreign-vehicles

ME, someone a thousand miles away from you, that you have never met, is sending you good thoughts.

That is the same story I am offering and I am sticking to it. YOU GO PUC!!!!!:You_Rock_Emoticon:

Hope you remember my "mileage post" @cowpuc the picture referenced enclosed in that post, is of YOU filing your bike up by the side of the road. :big-grin-emoticon:

Careful now, there are naked pictures in here... https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?109912-How-far-have-you-driven-on-Reserve-Fuel

The factory gen3 tool kit. a SLIME tire plug kit from wal-mart or wherever. a 12 volt compressor, H4 bulb, extension mirror, flip screwdriver & 8" crescent, and some microfiber towels that can always do double duty cleaning whatever.

Not "Air Intake Sensor" but "Air Intake Temp Sensor". He may have replaced the sensor, but need to check the wiring to ECU to make sure it is okay and ECU is getting signal from new sensor. Once wiring is inspected, you have to perform a sensor actuation test to get rid of the code. If you have already done it as shown below, then the ecu is not getting a signal from the AirTempSensor. This is either sensor (bet not), wiring (probably) or ecu (highly unlikely) fault.

I agree with you. I enjoy slow creeping speed turning takeoffs in the parking lot, while the Harley Boys are riding out at all but full throttle since they can't ride at all. I used to think that they just liked the sound of their pipes, barking at high throttle angles during departure, but, no, most of them really can't ride and they even take off that way... in a straight line.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?111175-Ignition-Switch-Repair