Du-Rron

Yup. I run a car filter that is a little larger so I add just a tad more oil. Be sure to check it when you get it back on the ground again.

Here is a screenshot of what I see. URL showing in address bar

The pictures are right here. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?76515-2nd-Gen-changing-the-fuel-filter This here is the WATERING HOLE forum not the 2nd GEN TECH SECTION. The pics are located at the tech setion at the URL above.

Have they checked for Meniere's disease yet? What happens when you do Epley Maneuvers over the foot of your bed? Discuss the results with your doctor. Just trying to help. Best wishes.

It has been mentioned that you can get used to it. I preferred the old feel so I never could. No belleville washer and half disk and wire means you lose that part of your cushioned clutch travel. Your only choice to get it back is to reinstall those parts. Alas, that is what I did. Do not worry, your clutch will not slip if you reinstall those parts as long as all your other disks are ok. Keep the NEW heavier spring though. That is what does the trick to keep the clutch from slipping.

I have a VN900 and a RSV. I know you didn't ask specifically me but I cant resist. If you can get the Eluder for a highly discounted price it might be something to think about. I have a 2012 RSV and for some reason it rides better every day which means I am not in the market to sell it to get a new Venture/Eluder. The VN900C is what I use when I want to ride light and within a 50 mile radius of my house. Now, Indian is coming out with a liquid cooled Challenger in 2020 year model that will have 50 or so more horsepower than the Eluder. Dunno the price on it. Might be a good thing to wait a bit and see what Indian has to offer.

Just thought I'd drop this here. https://www.motorcycle.com/mini-features/2020-indian-challenger-leaked-from-dealer-meeting.html

Look at 8:15 in Video 8 for your answer. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?118675-Yamaha-Venture-Factory-Maintenance-Repair-Videos If you remove the half-disk and install a full disk (no wire no belleville washe) you will lose clutch lever travel and that is part of the deal. I reinstalled the half disk back into mine.

I am using the EBC FA123V Semi-Sintered brake pad that I believe stops just as well as the factory brake pad and is more forgiving on the rotors than a full-sintered (factory) brake pad. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/ebc-fa123v-semi-sintered-rear-brake-pads

Yamaha Royal Star/Ventures have notoriously slippy clutches. You have to make your clutch all it can be. Get the SERVICE MANUAL available on here. The short course......... Stage One Clutch: New clutch fluid and a bleed job. Make sure the tiny vent hole in the top of the master is unblocked by probing it with a very small wire. Pull & Release clutch lever slowly to avoid taking a bath in brake fluid while you are checking this hole. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?83116-Bleeding-the-Clutch Stage two Clutch: Get serious and rebuild the XX year old master and slave cylinders and replace the who knows how old clutch lines. Stage three clutch: Get a clutch kit from @skydoc_17 and replace the spring. Optionally replace the half-disk. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?10518-Clutch-Upgrade https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?139137-Second-Gen-Heavy-Duty-Clutch-Spring-amp-Full-Disc-Upgrade-Kit! Stage four clutch: Install a Barnett clutch plate http://www.barnettclutches.com/1322/yamaha/0/0/2005-yamaha-xvz13-royal-star-venture/midnight-venture.html Stage five clutch: Only for those that want Popeye left forearm and intend to pull hay bale trailers. Install TWO diaphragm springs from @skydoc_17

If you used this oil then it is not the cause of your clutch slipping. How long have you owned the bike? Have you read all the tech forums right here concerning the Royal Star Clutch on your 23 year old clutch? You can run synthetic one oil change and conventional the next with no problems as long as both oils have the same ratings.

Your lines are not touching the exhaust anywhere are they? https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?97279-Baking-Clutch-Fluid-Exhaust-Heat-Shield

Thats it!

I see from your last picture today and from the picture of this wheel here that you are looking for a plan "C". Would the dampers (part number 11) out of a 2012 RSV work? I bet they would.

Oh I know. But I knew I remembered seeing this and I wanted to find it for me as well. There was a different TSB issued for the 2nd Gens's and I didnt have any trouble aligning mine fore/aft when it needed it. If on a 2nd Gen if you needed more of the port/starboard/yaw alignment thing (very rare) , I bet these shims would fit the 2nd Gens. In any event, even with my rear end aligned as per the TSB the pads still wear faster (still flat though) on the right side vs the left side. The rear end is quiet though.

Hey @cowpuc Finally found Yamaha Tech Bulletin M83-021 for 1st Gens to use the special TAPERED SHIMS (Yamaha part number 90891-20026-00) to align the rear end. M83-021 M83-022 Rear End Clicking Noise .pdf https://www.ebay.com/itm/90891-20026-00-NOS-Yamaha-Tapered-Shim-XVZ1200-S94a-/312191527142?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1

Yeah... the factory Yamaha filter for the RSV, the 1FK-24560-10-00, also goes onto all sorts of Yamaha motorcycles and their lawn equipment as well...

If you have a multi-brand dealer there is a good chance they will stock the Kawasaki 49019-0032 filter which is the same filter for the Yamaha Royal Star Venture. The Kawasaki filter lists for a couple of dollars less. If you do some business with your dealer there is a good chance you can get it for less than what you would pay on-line even including tax. If you are into Kawasaki Lawn equipment, they are on all Kawasaki FD type engines so you can get the fuel filters for your Yamaha from Kawasaki implement dealers as well. Kawasaki Part number 49019-0032 remains the same across the board.

Naw they mean unscrew the spark plug cap from the wire. We can do that.

Hi @cowpuc ! How you doing? Best wishes to you & yours. I have often thought that Yamaha should have stuffed a motorcycle under you for free with the way you gave them positive word of mouth. Now I think Hyundai should do the same thing. Which kinda brings me back around to my post number 2 in this thread, where I originally said I had to have my axle in one position cause it was notched to always point towards the pinch bolt. That is because I followed Yamaha Tech Bulliten M2005-15 (enclosed here and available on this website) to align the rear end. Once I did the alignment and tightened everything up, I notched the axle so I could always go right back together with it. The 2nd Gen did it this way. For a while there were even tapered shims for the 1st gen (I can't seem to find that bulliten). But, anyways, you were spot on. YamahaTechBullitenM2005-15.pdf

@RDawson and @Tennessee when yall say "change the pads" you mean swap the pads left-to-right. Correct? This is what I do to even out the wear. I don't actually install new pads until both sides of the rear are worn down.

Actually is was late at night and I quoted the wrong person. I quoted @dave_wells and I should have quoted you @Steven G. sorry about that yall.

Shim washers are ok to use as to the dimensions you stated above. One gets into trouble when the ID/OD'd are off, the parts is used for a while, disassembled, and then cannot be reassembled because the "washer/spacer" is now off center to when it was originally installed and the aluminum has taken a set to the old position. If there is any flex in the system then a shim washer should be used at all locations of mounting so that one location will not experience localized stress. While our calipers are not centered over the rotor, inboard-outboard/maybe diagonally, we have two pistons on each side applying a pressure to the pads. The inboard side will be slower to activate because the outboard side pressure up first, then pass fluid to the cross over hole to pressure up the other side. They adjust, auto-compensate, for pad thickness, without regard where the rotor is, left-right-middle in respect to the caliper position, within the range of the pistons. They float the pads. I kid you not. One side can have 2mm of pad left on it and the other side can have 6mm. Push the pistons in, swap the pad positions, and after you stomp the pedal a few times to get pressure back to the system, you will notice that the pistons have adjusted now to the pads. @dave_wells mentioned "Stiction" whereas we had to apply braking force, and then all of a sudden that piston broke loose and locked up a tire, and I think he may be on to something there, with a little mis-alignment of the caliper. I am agreeing with him on the "stiction" point. However, not to the point of changing my ways. I think that over time, many many years, it has been commented that the RSV has a very powerful (4piston) rear brake, that can also be very snatchy and lock-up the rear tire if you so much as think about using the rear brake. I can only tell you what I have decided to do about that. I have decided to swap pads around every 4-5 thousand miles (left-to-right) and I have replaced the rear brake pads with a Semi-Sintered compound (EBC FA123V) that, for me, stops just as good or better than the factory pads, lets me get better feel out of the rear brake, and I still continue to clean-lubricate the rear brake at 4-5K intervals.

I think you you may have something there. The rear brake on the RSV is super powerful (4piston) and super snatchy, and will lockup in a heartbeat, no matter how fast you are going or how great a tire you have on, if you are not careful. I changed the pads long ago from the factory (which I think are HH's) to a more forgiving semi-sintered brake pad (EBC FA123V) that allow me to get into the brake a little more before lockup. Course, If I stomp real real hard, they still snatch just like factory.