Leland
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Everything posted by Leland
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I think that the world has plenty of air-cooled v-twins to choose from. Now, if they would come back out with a modern four cylinder (would have to be water cooled) engine, that would at least pique my interest.
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Ed Asner is a self-confessed socialist. And yes, the Left uses simple terms for a very good reason.
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To seal the old switch hole, just go to the hardware store and get a short chrome allen head cap screw and a nut. I don't remember what size that I used, but they have a wide selection. As long as the screw fits through the hole and the head covers the hole, you are good to go.
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Hi Kent. Just wondering if you got to close on your new place? Sure does sound nice.
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The material is aluminum. If it was steel, I would say that it is about 10ga. Don't think that they are powder coated, but he did do a nice job of painting them. Like I said, I think that they are very well made.
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They do offer a cup holder.
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Me too.
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Well after all of these years, my wife has decided to ride (some). I installed these passenger armrests http://www.motorcyclereararmrest.com/ . The metal is aluminum and it is very well made. Cost $149.00 plus $15.00 for UPS ground. Arrived in four days after order. Less than one half the price of Love Handles http://www.motorcyclearmrest.com/ . Just had to drill two holes to mount with the lower backrest screws.
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Like others have said, you have a combination flame-rod/ignitor. the straight rod is just the ground. I don't know what control board you have, but typically the flame current is read in DC microamps. Many multi-meters have this range, indicated by "µ". They typically need at least 1µ. To read the flame signal on a combination flame-rod/ignitor you typically remove the Ground wire from the control board and put your meter leads in series with the ground wire and back to the control board. But this is all dependent on what type of control board you have.
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Top of Pikes Peak
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Well I heard back from my buddy with the Triumph Tiger. According to the tire shop's counterperson, they found all of the Stop and Go plugs inside the tire. He asked the counterperson if they were "intact", but he did not know. Now I guess that this means that the mushroom heads were still attached. I know for a fact that all three plugs held (1st one overnight, 2nd & 3rd via spit test) before the tire was put back in use. I can see no way that the plug could fall back inside the tire while still under pressure. Does this mean that the plug allowed the air to leak out around the plug while the tire was in motion and the plug then fell back inside the tire? Like Goose said, after the first one failed, we thought "did we maybe stretch it too far while seating the mushroom head?" I can guarantee that the 2nd and 3rd were installed exactly as per the manufacturer's instructions. Plus, the Triumph with its centerstand and high rear fender is very easy to access the rear tire. And like I said in my first post, the hole was in the exact center of the tire. I know that my mind is made up. PS, this was the kit that uses the tool with the allen wrench to insert the plug.
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My buddy who has a Triumph Tiger 1050 and I went on a three day, 1450 mile run last week through Western Colorado and Southern Utah. The second day rained much of the day, but still a nice scenic ride. Pulled into the Motel about 5 PM. While walking back from dinner, my buddy noticed a small (1/8") rock embedded in the middle of his rear tire. While trying to remove the rock, he noticed that it had put a small hole in the tire. This tire was near the end, about 1/32" above the wear bar. We couldn't believe our good luck, finding this in the Motel lot instead of on the side of the road. It had even quit raining. My buddy's string type repair kit's glue had dried out. I said not to worry, I have a "Stop and Go" kit http://www.stopngo.com/ and a Slime air compressor. I have had this kit for a couple of years, but never used it and all of the plugs were still sealed in the original plastic bag. The plug went right in and the tire aired up with no leaks. The next morning we checked the tire and it had not loss an ounce of pressure so off we went. We made it about 20 miles (two lane highway) when it went flat. The plug was gone. No choice but to install another plug. Plug once again went right in and held good. Off we went again. This time we made it about 5 miles before the tire went flat. At this point, we were about 25 miles from the nearest town. I rode to town to get a string type repair kit. My buddy installed a new plug. This time he made it about 2 miles before it went flat. Same thing, plug gone. When I returned, we installed the old fashion string and glue repair kit. This plug held the full 400+ miles home. I don't know what went wrong, but I am presuming that a steel cord cut the mushroom head off of the plug when the tire was in motion. Don't know if reaming the hole out better would have made a difference, but the bottom line is that the old style string and glue kit held. My buddy was suppose to ask the tire tech what he found in the old tire, but I have not heard.
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Another option, but I have no personal experience. http://motorcyclereararmrest.com/store/
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I just put mine underneath the saddlebag's bottom foam pad in a ziplock bag.
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RSTD Windscreen Options?
Leland replied to Dave77459's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
I have the 16.5" Clearview which is 3" shorter than stock in Light Grey-no vent (white bike). No re-curve. Works perfect for me at 5'8". Look just over the top. I originally bought the Clearview stock height 19" with vent and re-curve. I HATED the re-curve. It would give me a headache looking thru it. I then cut the bottom of the 19"er off 3" which was better, but still didn't like looking thru the re-curve on curves. I found the vent useless. I see that the Cee Bailey is stock width. The Clearview is 4" wider which I like better. But, the Cee Bailey is still a little cheaper even if you include the lowers which come standard with the Clearview. I think that the wider, lower Clearview makes the bike look much better. I don't get any buffeting, but never have a passenger so cannot speak to that. -
Others have cut the heel shifter off. This is what I did. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25937&page=3
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Horses raise alot of dust. Need a good seal between the two areas.
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Plus, most insurance companies will give you a discount for taking the course, no matter how long you have been riding.
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What running lights do you guys have?
Leland replied to Steve-O's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8843 This is what I did. -
Honest advice needed
Leland replied to csf's topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
All good information here. Had my 06 TD since new. If mine whines, I can't hear it. I too was concerned about carbs in 06. I live at 5500' and have ridden most all of Colorado's passes numerous times without any problems. These are constant velocity carbs. -
It would certainly be more enjoyable if they actually implemented this tilting mechanism. HomeNews View All Motorcycle News BRP Developing Tilting Can-Am Spyder Patent application defines tilting mechanism for three-wheeler By Motorcycle.Com Staff, Feb. 11, 2011 http://www.motorcycle.com/images/icon-email-new.gifhttp://www.motorcycle.com/images/icon-print-new.gif Bombardier Recreational Products has filed a patent application for a control system that would allow the Can-Am Spyder to lean like a single-track motorcycle.The patent application was filed July 10, 2009 by Daniel Mercier, advanced concept engineer at BRP, but was only recently published. The patent application describes a three-wheeled vehicle like the Can-Am Spyder only equipped with a tilting mechanism. While current Can-Am Spyders turn in the direction the handlebars are pressed, the leaning mechanism in the patent will require countersteering, something familiar to conventional motorcycle riders.
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If you ever replace cedar shake with asphalt shingles, make certain that the area underneath is adequately ventilated. Cedar will breath where asphalt will not, causing condensation below. I found out the hard way.
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My speedohealer is set for an speedometer correction of 8.5% which is dead on. My odometer now reads 5% low.
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I have a Diamond R (discontinued) centerstand on my 06 RSTD. I am 5'8" and 170#. I have found that getting the bike up is not strength, but technique. With bike on the side stand, place left hand on left handlebar. Right hand on saddlebag guard, knuckles facing forward. Place right foot, facing forward on centerstand. While pressing down on centerstand, stand bike vertical until it is on the centerstand. Now, lift with your right hand while pushing down and forward with your right foot. The bike will pop right up. I have a harder time getting the bike off of the centerstand than I do getting it on it.
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Well, I only got 10,500 miles out of my E3s. Set at 36# front, & 40# rear. '06 RSTD, I weigh about 170# and ride alone. If this was the end of the riding season, I probably could have nursed another 1000 miles out of them, but they were getting very close to the wear bars. And the front was worn more than the rear . No cupping or strange looking wear patterns. At 19,500 total miles, I am also on the original brake pads and all look good. Went back with the E3s, will see how this set holds up, but I don't know what I can change (other than brand) to improve the mileage.