hoochster

Nice! Thanks for the tip!

Ok, after putting the new plug in and running it a couple/few minutes I am still getting carbon on the spark plug. Could this just be a carb synch issue? Is the screw you adjust the fuel air mixture screw? Also, I did check the new spark plug (prior to putting it in the bike) by putting it to ground and it was sparking consistantley. I did move the tank and tried to put the hose for the propane behind the carbs and I couldn't hear a change in the idle so I am thinking there isn't an air leak. I can only guess I got it far enough back there.

Today I held the throttle for a few seconds and continued to rev the engine then checked the pipe and it was hot. I did put it all together yesterday so I can't check the carbs at the moment without taking it apart again. I am not sure where to check on the carbs for the vent. Goose, do you mind if I give you a call for verbal guidance? I am also trying to use propane to see if there is an air leak somewhere but can't get to the top of the carbs so I prob will have to take the tank off again anyways.

I also took the airbox off to see if it was clogged at all, which it was not. However, upon putting it back on I found that the clamp would ride up on the collar which would have the collar move up on the carberator so I would only tighten up so much to prevent the riding up. It seemed the rubber collar was kind of soft. I am wondering if that is normal or if I need to replace the collars so they are stiffer. the left side collars and clamps tightened pretty good and tight (like the screw would tighten like any other screw, unlike the right side). Maybe they aren't tight enough and therefore have a leak.

Okay, so today I did some measuring and this is what I found on the right front cylinder (The bad one). Resistance on the cap was as follows: 200K = 008, 20K = 08 and 2000 I didn't get anything. I did test a couple of the other caps and they read the same so I assumed the cap is good. Next I tested the coil. The primary (as I understand it, It was the two wires coming off the coil) was as follow 200 = 04.6. The secondary (Again, as I understand it, from the wire on the coil to the end of the plug cap) was as follows: 200k = 21.0, I did use a youtube video on how to test a coil on a motorcycle. The link to the video is [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRQ45lT2d3c]Testing your motorcycle coil - YouTube[/ame] Hopefully I did it right. I did test the cylinder again after completion with the fingertip method and it remained cold. If it helps any I have 32K miles on the bike.

Thanks Squidley, I will keep that in mind. I also wanted ot mention that when I did the fingertip test yesterday morning when the bike was completely cool I found that the whole right side wasn't working correctly. I found that while the left side was hot the right side front remained pretty cool and the right back was just warm. Not sure if that matters but that is what I found.

So I plan on checkking the resistence tomorrow. I do have a question about that. I plan on using a home multi meter, Do I plave the tip on the outside rubber part of the wire or directly in the wire (inside of the cover)? Also does a multimeter work for this or is a special tool needed?

I did do the spark test while running the bike and I did have a constant pulsating spark. The plug was pretty black (I think it was carbon cuz it wasn't wet). I cleaned it and put it back in. I just replaced my plugs in Mar or Apr. I will try the switch with the plugs. Hopefully I get to work on it some more tomorrow and if not I guess it will be Sunday. I will try the other thing with the ohms as well after doing a search on here on what to do. Thanks all for you help thus far! Also, Can I purchase just plug caps? I haven't changed the plug wires since I bought it in 2011 so not sure if maybe they are due to be changed as well.

Goose, Your fingertip test seemed to show that the front right cylinder is not working properly. I was able to keep my finger on that pipe while the rest were hot and I was only able to touch them quickly. So can anyone tell my how to fix this? Is it as easy as a spark plug or is it something else? Do I have to take the bike into the shop to fix it?

So, I did the fingertip test, or at least what I thought it was. I ran the bike on idle for about 2 mins, periodically putting my hand on the cylinders to check for heat. They never got to hot, that is to say, I was able to leave my hand on each one for an extended period of time. They all seemed about the same temperature. I am hoping that is what was meant by the fingertip test. Ha I just read a thread on here that explains the test in more detail, about touching the mufflers right at the headers. hehe I will try that once the bike cools down. hehe

Okay, I tried the higher RPM suggestion. I just did my calculations on two tanks of gas. Using the higher RPMs suggestion I now get less gas milage (25 on on tank and 26 on the other). I can't think of anything else to do other than change out the jets. Any other suggestions on the gas milage? MOst of my miles are city since I mostly do city driving with a commute to work of only like 3 miles. Thanks!

Where do you all get the crush washer from?

Glad to know it isn't too difficult if I decide to do this.

Thanks for the replies. I will give that advice a try and see what happens. Thanks again! I guess I have to find some K&N filters. hehe

Hey all, I'm new here. I am getting horrible gas milage and always have (roughly 28 mpg). When on the highway (single up and have windshield on) my low gas light comes on at 120 miles. Around 15 miles I have to switch to reserve. I bought this bike used about 3 years ago from a dealership in CO. I always thought the milage issue was because I was riding in the mountains but now that I am no longer in the mountains I have the same issue. I have had my carbs redone (by a dealership) to get the gunk out of them because I was deployed for a year and there fore didn't ride it. they stated that whenever they do a carb job they also sync them afterwards. I have had an oil change done as well as the air filters replaced. So, That was a very long way to ask if it is pretty ez to change out the jets for someone who isn't really mechanically inclined. I am ok and have taken the bike apart as far as the carberator but was unable to get the carbs out because I didn't have the manual (which I now do). Do you think it would be better for me to just take it into a shop to have them do it? Any insight is greatly appreciated. Tx!