Patmac6075

Simple things first...(not because I think you're stupid, but rather because I'm stupid and it's what I would probably overlook). Is the bike in gear and clutch not pulled in? Is the kill switch set to "RUN"?

Don't know of any current sales, but back in January I bought a set of Dunlop E-3's for my 1st Gen from a company called MotoSPORT.com, paid less than $80 apiece ($158 for a set, delivered!)! I posted my find here and a couple of member placed orders which were subsequently cancelled....guess I was the lucky one. Deals can be had....just gotta move quickly when they present themselves. Might check with local shops....sometimes at this time of year they want to move old inventory, and since these aren't a popular size anymore, they might be willing to wheel and deal (pun intended).

Like Puc said.....use 35mm film, it's basically the same stuff (the store bought stuff DOES have that nifty little hook, so I guess it's got that going for it)

Can always count on you Earl! You da Man!

As you correctly point out...."As the video starts out". None of us know what was happening, would it make a difference if you found out he was trying to bring a sick injured veteran to the hospital? Grandpa also used to say "Believe half of what you see and none of what you hear." How different would the reaction be if one of the bikers flashed a pistol? If I'm driving an SUV and a group of bikers wearing cuts attempts to stop my progress and block me in.....I can only hope I'd be as diplomatic as this fella.

As my grandfather used to say " There's more horses asses than there are horses." Motorcycles don't own the road. And civilians taking the law into their own hands is wrong. This is how people get hurt. Dont know about the rest of you, but I taught my kids that two wrongs don't make a right! I certainly don't know the whole story, but the cop was on the scene, the civilians should have let the law handle it...especially since they were supposedly "honoring " some veteran cause....as a veteran, I'm ashamed.

Looking forward to me ting some locals.... what time? I'll be on the early side.

As I'm replacing oil seals and dust seal on my front end, I figured I'd also add a set of gators....FleaBay has some from China pretty cheap (if you don't mind the wait). And for a couple of bucks....what the heck. So, does anyone what the stanchion diameter is?

Um....Marylyn Manson?

Sweet ride! Really looks like the previous owner took great care!

Thanks!

The boot don't need to be sync'd......Just kidding, yes, probably a good idea to re-sync especially if the reason you are replacing them is that they were leaking. Now that everything will be sealed the carbs need to be rebalanced.

So, as the title states, I'm looking for help understanding Yamaha part numbers. Specifically, I'm looking for oil and dust seals for my '84 VR.....so I have p/n 26h-23144-00-00 & 26h-23145-00-00 respectively for these parts? Now when I do a search, sometimes the first 3 characters (26h) will different, but the next set of characters (231444) will always be the same..... So my question is, "am I correct to believe that it doesn't matter what the first 3 characters are, and it's only the second set of numbers that matter? And, the third and fourth set would be revisions and or improved parts?" For instance, 26h stands for a First Gen ......and perhaps 1NL (I believe is for a VMax) is another bike it fits....but because 23144 is constant it will fit both bikes?

Just came across this rebate.... If you use Mobil 1 here is a rebate for $12 (up to $15 if you buy a filter too), not sure if it's good everywhere, but definitely at Walmart. Not sure if it applies to the motorcycle oil.....but I doubt it. https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion...obil-super Cheers

Bringing this old thread out of the bullpen..... So I ordered a broken key extractor kit from China, took like 2 1/2 months to arrive......it took me all of about ten seconds to shove this bristled piece of wire in next to my broken key and just pull it out....easy peasy...cost with shipping....$1.97! Worked for me!

Did you check "the nut behind the keyboard"? Sometimes there's a screw loose too? I feel your pain......

If my understanding is correct, NAPA Gold is made by WIX and is the same as a retail WIX (not WIX XP) filter, NAPA Silver is a WIX "contractor grade" filter. O'Reilly also sells the retail WIX filter and their house brand is the same as the NAPA Silver...ie it's a contractor grade filter made by WIX....FYI, O'Reilly sells their Pro-Tec label only in multi packs of six (again, Pro-Tec is a WIX filter)....most common filters are $19.00 for a six pack. Anyone can sign up for a commercial account at O'Reilly....just tell them you work on cars on the side and you want commercial pricing (some stuff'll have a decent discount and some will be almost the same as retail)...give them a name for your business (Venture Repairs Unlimited?) and tell them you will pay cash and don't have a tax ID number (will be much less paperwork). You can use the commercial website lookup and order parts (much better than the retail), you'll also be given the commercial telephone number...more than likely you'll get an intelligent/experienced person answering your questions. By and large, if you are just looking for the lowest price, Walmart beats them hands down.... Remember, most everything is sold as "Good", "Better", and "Best", at Walmart you're usually getting the "Good" level of quality....at a parts store you'll have the option to upgrade to higher quality stuff, and with almost everything, the "Best" quality level stuff is usually exactly the same as the O.E. manufacturer. One last thing....if you buy a Pro-Tec filter from RockAuto (or any closeout wholesaler), you'll most likely get a filter made by Fram....O'Reilly switched from Fram to WIX about two years ago.

tech@racerech.com or 951-279-7171 ask for Lou or Mike

I don't know, but if it were me I'd get on the phone to RaceTech's tech service hotline and ask to speak with an engineer....they are more likely to give you cold hard facts, rather than opinions (not that you won't get the facts here....it'll just be more interspersed with conjecture).....that is to say, if you want to know the pro's and con's of one weight spring vs another rather than "You're better off with Progressives" or "When I had them in my bike I love/hated them" without really getting an idea what will work best for your particular situation....ie., your weight, riding style, mod's you've done to your bike...ect.

Haulbikes.com out of Milwaukee will transport anywhere to anywhere (continental US) for $450. Never used them, but they ship for HD and are always transporting.

So, now I'm headed to tackling my brake hydraulics....I have most everything stripped apart...I opened the reservoir for the rear master.....YUCK! http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2016.png http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2015.png Funny thing is....It tastes like chicken

The fact that it needs to be said at all is pathetic, I'd say grow up but most of us are well past puberty...... I've found that the best angry responses are the ones that never get sent.

Reading this thread with interest..... I'm having a similar issue, my headlight seems to work fine...hi and lo....and the white light ALWAYS stays illuminated on the dash? I thought it was there to let me know the system/headlight was on and working. Now I don't get an icon on the computer screen,nor do I get a red light.... The reason the white light bugs me is, when driving at night it is somewhat distracting ever since I changed out all my dash lights to LED. Man are they bright....I've actually gone so far as to put a piece of electrical tape over that light...I'm too lazy to go back into the cluster and switch it out.

Stiction is a difficult thing....that thin film of oil (unless there is an actual blockage), like when you put a drop of water between two panes of glass, can be a bear to break sometimes....I think Carl is on the right track....do you have that notch oriented so you can get something under the shim? Sometimes brute force only holds the shim more tightly ...try a lighter touch and a slower motion....these old girls appreciate the extra effort.

As I've been recommissioning my '84 Royale, I've come across some pretty sweet deals....some have worked out pretty well for everybody, some (the deal on the E3's) not so much.... Well I found another pretty good deal on stainless steel hoses from a guy in Holland MI. His name is Nick and he owns Brake Hoses Unlimited. He did my clutch hoses for less than $45 shipped...high quality PVC coated hose (no charge for colors, I got black) with stainless fittings. Workmanship seems top notch, turnaround was pretty quick, and less than $23 per hose! The only real issue is he's not familiar with out bikes and will only reproduce hoses if he's seen them (some of this could be due to my inability to convey exactly what I needed), so I've had to mail him my hoses and have him remake those...good news is,if you're looking for a 1st GEN MK I with linked brakes he's already got a template. I did send him the .PDF that Prairiehammer posted, and according to that, no hose will be more than $35. Just to be clear, I have no affiliation with these guys....just found what I think is a good price and thought I'd share... Brake Hoses Unlimited 302 E. 19th. ST Suite D Holland, MI 49423 Nick Christman ph. 616-836-7885 goodbrakes@brakehoses.biz