Patmac6075

Can always count on you Earl! You da Man!

As you correctly point out...."As the video starts out". None of us know what was happening, would it make a difference if you found out he was trying to bring a sick injured veteran to the hospital? Grandpa also used to say "Believe half of what you see and none of what you hear." How different would the reaction be if one of the bikers flashed a pistol? If I'm driving an SUV and a group of bikers wearing cuts attempts to stop my progress and block me in.....I can only hope I'd be as diplomatic as this fella.

As my grandfather used to say " There's more horses asses than there are horses." Motorcycles don't own the road. And civilians taking the law into their own hands is wrong. This is how people get hurt. Dont know about the rest of you, but I taught my kids that two wrongs don't make a right! I certainly don't know the whole story, but the cop was on the scene, the civilians should have let the law handle it...especially since they were supposedly "honoring " some veteran cause....as a veteran, I'm ashamed.

Looking forward to me ting some locals.... what time? I'll be on the early side.

As I'm replacing oil seals and dust seal on my front end, I figured I'd also add a set of gators....FleaBay has some from China pretty cheap (if you don't mind the wait). And for a couple of bucks....what the heck. So, does anyone what the stanchion diameter is?

Um....Marylyn Manson?

Sweet ride! Really looks like the previous owner took great care!

Thanks!

The boot don't need to be sync'd......Just kidding, yes, probably a good idea to re-sync especially if the reason you are replacing them is that they were leaking. Now that everything will be sealed the carbs need to be rebalanced.

So, as the title states, I'm looking for help understanding Yamaha part numbers. Specifically, I'm looking for oil and dust seals for my '84 VR.....so I have p/n 26h-23144-00-00 & 26h-23145-00-00 respectively for these parts? Now when I do a search, sometimes the first 3 characters (26h) will different, but the next set of characters (231444) will always be the same..... So my question is, "am I correct to believe that it doesn't matter what the first 3 characters are, and it's only the second set of numbers that matter? And, the third and fourth set would be revisions and or improved parts?" For instance, 26h stands for a First Gen ......and perhaps 1NL (I believe is for a VMax) is another bike it fits....but because 23144 is constant it will fit both bikes?

Just came across this rebate.... If you use Mobil 1 here is a rebate for $12 (up to $15 if you buy a filter too), not sure if it's good everywhere, but definitely at Walmart. Not sure if it applies to the motorcycle oil.....but I doubt it. https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion...obil-super Cheers

Bringing this old thread out of the bullpen..... So I ordered a broken key extractor kit from China, took like 2 1/2 months to arrive......it took me all of about ten seconds to shove this bristled piece of wire in next to my broken key and just pull it out....easy peasy...cost with shipping....$1.97! Worked for me!

Did you check "the nut behind the keyboard"? Sometimes there's a screw loose too? I feel your pain......

If my understanding is correct, NAPA Gold is made by WIX and is the same as a retail WIX (not WIX XP) filter, NAPA Silver is a WIX "contractor grade" filter. O'Reilly also sells the retail WIX filter and their house brand is the same as the NAPA Silver...ie it's a contractor grade filter made by WIX....FYI, O'Reilly sells their Pro-Tec label only in multi packs of six (again, Pro-Tec is a WIX filter)....most common filters are $19.00 for a six pack. Anyone can sign up for a commercial account at O'Reilly....just tell them you work on cars on the side and you want commercial pricing (some stuff'll have a decent discount and some will be almost the same as retail)...give them a name for your business (Venture Repairs Unlimited?) and tell them you will pay cash and don't have a tax ID number (will be much less paperwork). You can use the commercial website lookup and order parts (much better than the retail), you'll also be given the commercial telephone number...more than likely you'll get an intelligent/experienced person answering your questions. By and large, if you are just looking for the lowest price, Walmart beats them hands down.... Remember, most everything is sold as "Good", "Better", and "Best", at Walmart you're usually getting the "Good" level of quality....at a parts store you'll have the option to upgrade to higher quality stuff, and with almost everything, the "Best" quality level stuff is usually exactly the same as the O.E. manufacturer. One last thing....if you buy a Pro-Tec filter from RockAuto (or any closeout wholesaler), you'll most likely get a filter made by Fram....O'Reilly switched from Fram to WIX about two years ago.

tech@racerech.com or 951-279-7171 ask for Lou or Mike

I don't know, but if it were me I'd get on the phone to RaceTech's tech service hotline and ask to speak with an engineer....they are more likely to give you cold hard facts, rather than opinions (not that you won't get the facts here....it'll just be more interspersed with conjecture).....that is to say, if you want to know the pro's and con's of one weight spring vs another rather than "You're better off with Progressives" or "When I had them in my bike I love/hated them" without really getting an idea what will work best for your particular situation....ie., your weight, riding style, mod's you've done to your bike...ect.

Haulbikes.com out of Milwaukee will transport anywhere to anywhere (continental US) for $450. Never used them, but they ship for HD and are always transporting.

So, now I'm headed to tackling my brake hydraulics....I have most everything stripped apart...I opened the reservoir for the rear master.....YUCK! http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2016.png http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2015.png Funny thing is....It tastes like chicken

The fact that it needs to be said at all is pathetic, I'd say grow up but most of us are well past puberty...... I've found that the best angry responses are the ones that never get sent.

Reading this thread with interest..... I'm having a similar issue, my headlight seems to work fine...hi and lo....and the white light ALWAYS stays illuminated on the dash? I thought it was there to let me know the system/headlight was on and working. Now I don't get an icon on the computer screen,nor do I get a red light.... The reason the white light bugs me is, when driving at night it is somewhat distracting ever since I changed out all my dash lights to LED. Man are they bright....I've actually gone so far as to put a piece of electrical tape over that light...I'm too lazy to go back into the cluster and switch it out.

Stiction is a difficult thing....that thin film of oil (unless there is an actual blockage), like when you put a drop of water between two panes of glass, can be a bear to break sometimes....I think Carl is on the right track....do you have that notch oriented so you can get something under the shim? Sometimes brute force only holds the shim more tightly ...try a lighter touch and a slower motion....these old girls appreciate the extra effort.

As I've been recommissioning my '84 Royale, I've come across some pretty sweet deals....some have worked out pretty well for everybody, some (the deal on the E3's) not so much.... Well I found another pretty good deal on stainless steel hoses from a guy in Holland MI. His name is Nick and he owns Brake Hoses Unlimited. He did my clutch hoses for less than $45 shipped...high quality PVC coated hose (no charge for colors, I got black) with stainless fittings. Workmanship seems top notch, turnaround was pretty quick, and less than $23 per hose! The only real issue is he's not familiar with out bikes and will only reproduce hoses if he's seen them (some of this could be due to my inability to convey exactly what I needed), so I've had to mail him my hoses and have him remake those...good news is,if you're looking for a 1st GEN MK I with linked brakes he's already got a template. I did send him the .PDF that Prairiehammer posted, and according to that, no hose will be more than $35. Just to be clear, I have no affiliation with these guys....just found what I think is a good price and thought I'd share... Brake Hoses Unlimited 302 E. 19th. ST Suite D Holland, MI 49423 Nick Christman ph. 616-836-7885 goodbrakes@brakehoses.biz

So, as I while away the hours here in sub-zero Wisconsin, I thought I’d put together a tutorial on rebuilding the clutch hydraulics on my 1984 Venture Royale. My symptoms started last July while stuck in stop & go traffic for more than an hour, at first I noticed my clutch was engaging later and later, it progressively got worse, until it became difficult to drop it into first, and change gears….finding neutral was nearly impossible. Fortunately, the highway eventually cleared up and I was able to get home by pumping up the clutch lever. Once I got home and posted my situation here, it basically came down to two answers…#1 might just need to be bled, or #2 some or all components may need to be replaced/rebuilt. So course I choose the “Quick Fix”…and just bleed out the system…..which worked……. for a while. Near the end of the season I could see in the master sight glass I had lost about half of the fluid….and while I was preparing the bike for storage I could see fluid all over my left exhaust and plenty on the shop floor….Time for a rebuild! This job is not too difficult, and can be done with a very basic tool kit….here’s what I used: http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2011.png http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2010.png Tools - #2 Phillips Head, an internal Master Cylinder snap ring pliers (I’ve used two picks for this job, but found I also needed a third hand, I’ve also used a standard snap ring pliers but found they are just a tad too short, These pliers are about $25, and make the job immensely easier!), a 17mm open end wrench, a 10mm open end wrench or preferably a flare wrench, an 8mm combo wrench, a ratchet and various extensions, 10mm & 12mm sockets, and a 5mm long reach Allen key (a 5mm Allen socket and extension works too). Supplies – Clutch Master Cylinder rebuild kit, Slave Cylinder rebuild kit, two new stainless steel hoses, fresh copper crush washers, a quart of clean fresh DOT3 brake fluid, some silicone/dielectric grease, brake cleaner, 2000 grit wet dry sand paper, and plenty of paper towels I first started by removing the middle gear cover using the 5mm Allen key (pay special mind to the bottom most Allen bolt as it has a copper washer/spacer…if this gets misplaced you’ll have an oil leak). Once that’s removed, loosen the slave bleed nipple with the 8mm wrench and crack the banjo bolt on the slave cylinder with the 12mm socket and let it bleed out…..then remove that hose with the 17mm wrench and 10mm flare wrench. Once the hose is completely removed, remove two bolts securing the slave cylinder to the block using the long reach 5mm Allen key. Now remove the slave cylinder from the bike which is easier said than done! Suffice it to say, stick with it, wiggle it around, curse profusely, and eventually it’ll come out….took me about 25-40 minutes. To remove the Clutch Master cylinder first remove the clutch safety switch (located near the end of the clutch lever) by simply inserting a small screw driver or the end of a ¼” extension pushing on the switch tab and pulling the switch free of the Master (it’s a good idea to clean this switch with some contact cleaner). At this point make sure you have plenty of heavy towels covering any exposed plastic or painted surface…brake fluid will ruin those parts in very short order (or you can do as I did and remove all the plastics, it’ll be easier to reach the upper clutch hose union later). Crack the banjo bolt on the Master (if you’re lucky most of the brake fluid will drain out the bottom). Now you can remove the Master from the bike by removing the two 10mm bolts at the handle bars. To remove the upper clutch hose you must first remove the two Phillips screws from the access panel on the handle bar, the follow the hose down to it’s union just below and forward of the battery, again using the 17mm wrench and the 10mm wrench, disconnect the hose and remove it. Rebuilding Master Cylinder: I like to work inside an old 10 x 14 cake pan lined with paper towels, it keeps most parts contained and helps keep my work bench clean and disassembly organized. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2014.png Disassembly is pretty straight forward…remove the two screws holding the lid on the Master and drain the residual fluid, remove the lever taking note of the actuators orientation (at this point I like to take pictures or make drawing so I can remember how it all goes together). Now this’ll be where that specialty snap ring pliers comes in handy. There is a snap ring down the main cylinder bore http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2013.png It’s easiest to press down slightly on the plunger while trying to remove the snap ring…be careful, because this is spring loaded…so make sure you’re prepared in case things go flying! Again, I like to lay everything out in the order in which they came out and take detailed pictures so I can put it all back in the way it came out. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%206.png http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%207.png Clean everything up real well with some brake cleaner…inspect the cylinder bore by shining a light down the bore, if it’s not too scored up, you can wrap a pencil with that 2000 grit paper dipped in brake fluid and hone the cylinder, in my case it was pretty clean. Now if you look into the brake fluid reservoir you’ll see two small holes (you may need to get the magnifying glass out to see the smaller of the two!) these both need to be clear of any crud…a squirt of brake cleaner usually clears the larger hole, but for the smaller hole I use a single bristle from a nylon parts cleaning brush…you don’t want to use anything which will enlarge this hole at all, and it is very important that it be cleaned out! http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%209.png http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%208.png At this point I like to soak the rubber parts in brake fluid under a high intensity light (to gently warm the parts)….hopefully your rebuild kit comes with a new plunger, just slide the seals over the plunger taking care to make sure you put them on correctly (those pictures really help here). Using plenty of brake fluid as a lubricant just reassemble in the order it came out….this where that snap ring pliers comes in handy again! I like to smear the plunger/actuator cover with some dielectric grease and the brake pivot with some lithium grease…reassemble everything and Viola….you’re mostly done! Rebuilding Slave cylinder: For me, I’ve always found it easier to use a grease gun to remove the Slave piston (just open the brake bleed nipple, put a bolt it the banjo hole and pump grease in…make sure the piston isn’t cock-eyed and it should just float out…just make certain you clean every trace of grease out YOU MUST GET EVERY LITTLE BIT OUT OF EVERYWHERE!). My Slave cylinder was in pretty sorry condition http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/ZZ%20Parts8.png http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/ZZ%20Parts10.png Also, the bore had a bunch of crud caked in it! I used 2000 grit soaked in brake fluid to polish the crud out and got rid of all the tiny score marks. It really is key to clean up every little bit of crud both inside and outside and all around the lip where the outer seal goes….you cannot clean this area too much! http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%203.png Again soak those rubber bits in brake fluid heated under a lamp and they should go back on fairly easily, just make sure you have the orientation correct! Put it all back together the way it came out and you’re done! Put the Slave back on the bike (it’s even harder putting it back in than it was taking it out, so, good luck with that), put the Master back on, connect the hoses and bleed the system….Total cost about $75 ($100 if you include the special snap ring pliers) and 6 hours labor…. Now in my opinion, I could have just replaced the slave cylinder and been done with it. My problem would have been solved and my cost would have been about $30…..BUT, my bike is nearly 33 years old…if the slave is toast, chances are the master is the next weak link….if I just did those two, then the hoses are the next area to fail….why not get all done at the same time, do it once, and do it right? Next up…..Brakes

So, as I while away the hours here in sub-zero Wisconsin, I thought I’d put together a tutorial on rebuilding the clutch hydraulics on my 1984 Venture Royale. My symptoms started last July while stuck in stop & go traffic for more than an hour, at first I noticed my clutch was engaging later and later, it progressively got worse, until it became difficult to drop it into first, and change gears….finding neutral was nearly impossible. Fortunately, the highway eventually cleared up and I was able to get home by pumping up the clutch lever. Once I got home and posted my situation here, it basically came down to two answers…#1 might just need to be bled, or #2 some or all components may need to be replaced/rebuilt. So course I choose the “Quick Fix”…and just bleed out the system…..which worked……. for a while. Near the end of the season I could see in the master sight glass I had lost about half of the fluid….and while I was preparing the bike for storage I could see fluid all over my left exhaust and plenty on the shop floor….Time for a rebuild! This job is not too difficult, and can be done with a very basic tool kit….here’s what I used: http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2011.png http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2010.png Tools - #2 Phillips Head, an internal Master Cylinder snap ring pliers (I’ve used two picks for this job, but found I also needed a third hand, I’ve also used a standard snap ring pliers but found they are just a tad too short, These pliers are about $25, and make the job immensely easier!), a 17mm open end wrench, a 10mm open end wrench or preferably a flare wrench, an 8mm combo wrench, a ratchet and various extensions, 10mm & 12mm sockets, and a 5mm long reach Allen key (a 5mm Allen socket and extension works too). Supplies – Clutch Master Cylinder rebuild kit, Slave Cylinder rebuild kit, two new stainless steel hoses, fresh copper crush washers, a quart of clean fresh DOT3 brake fluid, some silicone/dielectric grease, brake cleaner, 2000 grit wet dry sand paper, and plenty of paper towels I first started by removing the middle gear cover using the 5mm Allen key (pay special mind to the bottom most Allen bolt as it has a copper washer/spacer…if this gets misplaced you’ll have an oil leak). Once that’s removed, loosen the slave bleed nipple with the 8mm wrench and crack the banjo bolt on the slave cylinder with the 12mm socket and let it bleed out…..then remove that hose with the 17mm wrench and 10mm flare wrench. Once the hose is completely removed, remove two bolts securing the slave cylinder to the block using the long reach 5mm Allen key. Now remove the slave cylinder from the bike which is easier said than done! Suffice it to say, stick with it, wiggle it around, curse profusely, and eventually it’ll come out….took me about 25-40 minutes. To remove the Clutch Master cylinder first remove the clutch safety switch (located near the end of the clutch lever) by simply inserting a small screw driver or the end of a ¼” extension pushing on the switch tab and pulling the switch free of the Master (it’s a good idea to clean this switch with some contact cleaner). At this point make sure you have plenty of heavy towels covering any exposed plastic or painted surface…brake fluid will ruin those parts in very short order (or you can do as I did and remove all the plastics, it’ll be easier to reach the upper clutch hose union later). Crack the banjo bolt on the Master (if you’re lucky most of the brake fluid will drain out the bottom). Now you can remove the Master from the bike by removing the two 10mm bolts at the handle bars. To remove the upper clutch hose you must first remove the two Phillips screws from the access panel on the handle bar, the follow the hose down to it’s union just below and forward of the battery, again using the 17mm wrench and the 10mm wrench, disconnect the hose and remove it. Rebuilding Master Cylinder: I like to work inside an old 10 x 14 cake pan lined with paper towels, it keeps most parts contained and helps keep my work bench clean and disassembly organized. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2014.png Disassembly is pretty straight forward…remove the two screws holding the lid on the Master and drain the residual fluid, remove the lever taking note of the actuators orientation (at this point I like to take pictures or make drawing so I can remember how it all goes together). Now this’ll be where that specialty snap ring pliers comes in handy. There is a snap ring down the main cylinder bore http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%2013.png It’s easiest to press down slightly on the plunger while trying to remove the snap ring…be careful, because this is spring loaded…so make sure you’re prepared in case things go flying! Again, I like to lay everything out in the order in which they came out and take detailed pictures so I can put it all back in the way it came out. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%206.png http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%207.png Clean everything up real well with some brake cleaner…inspect the cylinder bore by shining a light down the bore, if it’s not too scored up, you can wrap a pencil with that 2000 grit paper dipped in brake fluid and hone the cylinder, in my case it was pretty clean. Now if you look into the brake fluid reservoir you’ll see two small holes (you may need to get the magnifying glass out to see the smaller of the two!) these both need to be clear of any crud…a squirt of brake cleaner usually clears the larger hole, but for the smaller hole I use a single bristle from a nylon parts cleaning brush…you don’t want to use anything which will enlarge this hole at all, and it is very important that it be cleaned out! http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%209.png http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%208.png At this point I like to soak the rubber parts in brake fluid under a high intensity light (to gently warm the parts)….hopefully your rebuild kit comes with a new plunger, just slide the seals over the plunger taking care to make sure you put them on correctly (those pictures really help here). Using plenty of brake fluid as a lubricant just reassemble in the order it came out….this where that snap ring pliers comes in handy again! I like to smear the plunger/actuator cover with some dielectric grease and the brake pivot with some lithium grease…reassemble everything and Viola….you’re mostly done! Rebuilding Slave cylinder: For me, I’ve always found it easier to use a grease gun to remove the Slave piston (just open the brake bleed nipple, put a bolt it the banjo hole and pump grease in…make sure the piston isn’t cock-eyed and it should just float out…just make certain you clean every trace of grease out YOU MUST GET EVERY LITTLE BIT OUT OF EVERYWHERE!). My Slave cylinder was in pretty sorry condition http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/ZZ%20Parts8.png http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/ZZ%20Parts10.png Also, the bore had a bunch of crud caked in it! I used 2000 grit soaked in brake fluid to polish the crud out and got rid of all the tiny score marks. It really is key to clean up every little bit of crud both inside and outside and all around the lip where the outer seal goes….you cannot clean this area too much! http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/New%20Picture%203.png Again soak those rubber bits in brake fluid heated under a lamp and they should go back on fairly easily, just make sure you have the orientation correct! Put it all back together the way it came out and you’re done! Put the Slave back on the bike (it’s even harder putting it back in than it was taking it out, so, good luck with that), put the Master back on, connect the hoses and bleed the system….Total cost about $75 ($100 if you include the special snap ring pliers) and 6 hours labor…. Now in my opinion, I could have just replaced the slave cylinder and been done with it. My problem would have been solved and my cost would have been about $30…..BUT, my bike is nearly 33 years old…if the slave is toast, chances are the master is the next weak link….if I just did those two, then the hoses are the next area to fail….why not get all done at the same time, do it once, and do it right? Next up…..Brakes

Watching this thread with much anticipation Trader as I'm going down the same road.....complete overhaul of the clutch and brake hydraulics, new pads, springs, and tires. Kevin, would you care to elaborate on the greasing of those splines? Is there a write up?