Patmac6075

As the title states, I'm looking for some advice on headlight lamps. I don't do a tremendous amount of night riding (I live on the edge of the Sticks, and have a real "fear of the deer"!). So can someone enlighten me? Pun intended. What is the current hot setup? Are there plug and play options? Do you need to do a ton of reengineering? FYI, I'm familiar with the whole family of sylivainia silverstar lamps....I am convinced they are very little more than snake oil....have installed them on numerous cars and bikes with almost no discernible difference (except my wallet felt lighter).

^^^^^^What he said! Something is amiss...I would ask for a refund if an independent third party concluded that there was a more efficient way to mount that tire! I also stand corrected......thank you Kevin....I was of the opinion, one could mount a tubeless tire on a tube rim (without a tube)...I will never make that mistake!

Same brand of oil that I used?! Not sure I can define the difference between pogoing and porpoising? I am defining pogoing as very pronounced up and down motion of my handle bars on a known smooth road...I'm sure if you were driving towards me at night, you'd think I was driving on a washboard or over a rumble strip. I normally ride one up with rear shock set at MED (what is that? 43psi?). Not an overly bling'd out bike...I do have a rear bumper, but my bags are empty.....BTW, 0 psi, LOW setting MED, or HIGH it'll still pogo down the road at low speed. Also...did not measure, I used a known quantity of oil (360ml, exactly), this is the amount another member (I can't remember who, he had claimed to do hundereds of experiments with oil quantity and different weights with progressive springs). I must also say, at speed or on the twisties...this bike night and day difference to what it was before I rebuilt the front end and braking system....it handles waaaaaay better than before...I'm not a "peg dragger", but I'm confident I could be, the way this bike handles now!

Not the case at all. Bearings are brand new, the entire braking system has just been completely rebuilt (hydraulics, pads, calipers, masters, SS hoses...the whole shootin' match), and front wheel spins easily and true, brand new E3 tires, balanced, new progressive springs, and even a super-brace. No wobbles at speeds up to 100mph (as fast as I'm willing to go), as I said solid as a rock above 30mph. Numerous other members have reported a pogo effect with 10wt which was cured by changing to 12.5 or 15wt (although I have read some members claim 15wt is too viscous). I find it interesting that you're not having this issue....what brand of fork oil did you use?

Sorry I can't help with dragging the center stand....but would like your feedback on using 10wt fork oil. I just did a total rebuild (sliders, springs, both seals, even changed o-rings on the anti-dive), I went with 360ml (as per another member suggestion) of 10wt and I'm experiencing a wicked "pogoing" effect at low speed (10-25 mph). Have been too lazy to make the change to 12.5 or 15wt, goint to wait until the off season. FYI, at speeds above 30 mph, it's solid with no pogo.

Are you positive he's out of the Ignitech game? The reason I ask is I recently bought a used Ignitech from another member (it was set up for an '89, I think)...it needed to be reprogrammed for my '84 (multi-pickup and different connector...plus it also needed a MAP sensor as well). I emailed Gary and he responded right away....he was very helpful...did everything to prepare it for my bike and only charged me $50 (MAP sensor was like $20-$30, and it included shipping...he also tested the unit as well). This was less than a month ago. So, I would contact him directly....very cool guy

Like I said...can't help you with breaking the news to your wife...I bought a $250 bike and have dumped just north of $1200 in to it. All I can tell you is, I sell a lot of nickel and dime stuff on eBay and try to save up and buy individual bits one at a time over the winter. That's the way I've kept my spend "under the radar"! In all seriousness, I'm more than willing to lend a hand...just let me know.

Seeing as you're flying that Swab-jockey flag, and me being a former Jarhead (one never knows when he might need a ride to a fight....)...I'm in Cedarburg, so I'm not all that close....send me a pm with some times you're available and I'll see if it sync's up with my schedule. I've yet to do this particular procedure, but maybe between the two of us we can figure it out... Pat

As the title suggests, I'm trying to get an idea if these disc brake and caliper covers have any value....Is it worth my time to try and sell them? I never liked the look of the covers, so when I did my front end rebuild, I took them off, I also took off the front fender chrome thing (not sure if it's OE or aftermarket)...I didn't really like the way it looked either....so I'd like to hear from you guys... http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Venture%20May15%20003.jpg

Hardest thing about smokin' a Harley? Keeping it lit!

Interestingly....they are not, at least not how I expected....one end IS wound a tad bit tighter....but not nearly as "progressive" as I'd thought they would be.

Rags, I just completed a total front end and hydraulic rebuild and all I can say WOW! It's like night and day! I went all stock (except stainless brake hoses and EBC pads) and I cannot complain about the brakes at all....I can only imagine how much better it'd be if I'd done the upgrade to 4 piston calipers! its also hard to believe how inadequate the stock springs are, a member (VanRiver) just posted pix showing the difference between Progressive Suspension springs and stock springs. Once you switch you won't have any bottoming out issues. And FYI, I'm the guy with the pogoing issue.....my advise is stay away from 10wt fork oil....others claim 15wt is too heavy, so look for some 12.5wt and that should be "just right".

Actually to clarify my position even more.....I personally have only used RottellaT in my Venture and have no slippage issues. I have used synthetic and non-synthetic motorcycle and automotive oils in other Yamahas I have owned and I have had starter clutch issues with other brands....with the two I have mentioned as I stated earlier I have not had issues with slippage of any sort venture or non venture

Mobil 1 automotive? That's not good....not really "messed up, so much as it'll slip. Some have used synthetic motorcycle oil with out issue but my personal experience (with my other Yamaha's) is any synthetic and even some non-synthetic oil could cause slippage. For me, RottellaT and Castrol 4T are the only oils I personally have used that did not cause slippage....but than again, it's not like I have experience with everything on the market....if it works for me, I quit looking for alternatives.

Cedarburg here....can't help you with convincing the wifey, I'm still working on the same thing here... but a safe, dependable, clean, comfortable bike helps! Has the oil been changed on your scoot? Sound like it could be your starter clutch is slipping. These old girls don't like modern automobile oil...especially synthetic. If it were me, I would start with an oil change....I like Shell RotellaT 15w-40 (1 gal. = $13) and a Fram filter. FYI - I'm on the backside of a total recommissioning of a $250 '84 Venture Royale......cost so far has been just north of $1200 (cost for just parts...you can triple that number if you have a shop do the work). There are so many knowledgeable helpful people on this board....take it one thing at a time, take pictures, ask questions, and heed the advice of the gurus....it won't take long before you figure out who's advice you should follow and who's you should take with a grain of salt.

Really need more information....has the bike been sitting? Have you done any work on it already? if it were my bike I'd start with the routine maintenance, change all fluids (might clear up your overheating issue and spongey brakes). There are copies of the original shop manual in the First Gen Tech section. Read through all the routine maintenance, and do them one at a time. These bikes are almost bullet proof, and if you keep up on maintenance they'll last well over 200k. Just as as a ballpark figure, you should expect to dump nearly $1000 into one of these bike ($1000 IF you do the work yourself), if you're expecting to bring your bike up to snuff..... Which warning lights are blinking? And the battery light could be just a simple bypass wire (A member here Skydoc sells a kit, or you can DYI....it's pretty simple). Also....pictures always help And welcome aboard....you find many knowledgeable and helpful people here on this site.

For me, personally, I wouldn't plug a motorcycle tire. I'm sure many others have ridden countless miles with no problems, but $200 is a small price to pay and in my opinion it's just not worth the risk....especially if I'm carrying my wife or kids on the back.

^^^^^Ha-Ha.....me too!

Well with all the rebuilding I've done, specifically the clutch hydraulics, I now find my cruise control is now working...yippie! My problem is my bike doesn't hold a steady speed....The speed varies by 5mph, i.e., slows down and speeds up the entire time it's on...so if I'm set at 70mph I'm bouncing between 65 and 70. It gets worse on hills. Is this normal?

I just redid my entire front end and Puc is right! Them springs is just about worthless! I couldn't believe how thin the coil was and how spread the coils were compared to the progressives. There is a world of difference.... FYI, I used 360ml of 10wt. fork oil and I am experiencing a pronounced "pogoing" at slow speeds (solid as a rock above 50mph), I would definitely recommend 12.5 or 15wt. fork oil if you make the swap.

Wish I would have and certainly should have, but I didn't replace the steering bearing....mine move without notchieness and no noticeable play, but I agree....with their age...it is the right thing to do.

I followed (from memory) this thread, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?86243-Front-forks-what-you-should-know-progressive , but after rereading it, Jason also experienced pogoing with 10wt and made his own "voodoo" 12wt which apparently fixed his problem....maybe I'll give that a try.

Finished front end rebuild, tires, bearings, complete brakes, complete forks, springs, sliders, and seals. WHAT A DIFFERENCES! I used 10wt fork oil and I seem to get a noticeable "pogoing" action at lower speeds (under 35)...it's quite irritating, especially around 25mph, at highway speeds I am rock-solid. I'd read many times that 10wt is the way to go.....has anyone else had this issue? BTW - Progressive springs, 360ml of oil (per recommendation), and no air assist. Although pogoing still persists no matter how much pressure is in forks. Question is.....heavier weight oil?

Gall Bladder?

Hey mbova, changing out your fuse box is pretty simple, I did a write up, it's in the 1st Gen tech section under Computer/other electrical. It'll take about an hour. Also a member here sells a kit, check out Skydoc....it's a complete kit and Earl is a great guy...very helpful. ps - I would have posted a link, but I don't know how with this dang iPad!