Patmac6075

Ok, so I'm preparing for some of my Winter projects...replace tired old windshield (have tried everything...Pledge, poly-carbonate scratch remover, 3M headlight restorer, and I still don't like the results)....install the Ignitech replacement TCI...replace the plastic water pump impeller...and replace my clutch. I try to buy my parts a couple at a time to keep the spend down and also keep it under the radar from the CFO.... So, I'm looking at replacing clutch plates, clutch fibers, and springs, and I'd like to know if there is any preference or major difference between the EBC kits and the Barnett kits...I always seem to hear everyone saying Barnett....is Barnett superior to EBC....I've always had good luck them? Don't want to start an "Oil War" or "Tire War"...just want opinions and personal experience. Thanks:icon_lurker:

Bout an hour and change from Cedarburg.....Free Tamales?....Oh Yeah! Count me in. As long as you won't have me swabbing any decks!

I usually like to wear white or a light color....I really like the Under Armour type products as a long sleeve under shirt, they wick well and have good UV protection. On top of that I like to wear a button down shirt...if you have some extra $$$ Columbia make some terrific fishing shirts....light weight and lots of vents.

For both the '83 & '84, I seem to remember it is every 5k mi.....

Not sure if how many of you get these "special" coupons from eBay, but about every 5 months or so I get an email (heaped in amongs't countless other junk emails) from eBay for (usually) $20 off eBay Motors over $100 in purchases. Cool thing is, you don't need to spend all$100 in the same place, as long as it's eBay Motors related....spend $100 get $20 added back into your paypal account. The promo code I received is CMOTORS716 and it's good through July 22. I have used these codes three or four times and every time I had to actually call paypal because it hadn't posted....once I call they post up the $20 VIOLA! I just bought a new windshield and some miscellaneous parts....total of about $103....just got my $20 posted....sweet! Maybe you need to actually receive the email in order to get the coupon???? I don't know, check it out...could be worth $20.

$20? I just sent Damon an email. I absolutely want his videos, and $20 is nothing. I hope to rebuild my '84's carbs at some point and this sort of step by step tutorial will be indispensable!

Wait.....What? I don't mean to hijack this thread, but did you say the white light on the dash is normally supposed to be out?, Mine stays on all the time (I have thought it was distracting while riding at night)???? So, I guess I have some sort of problem?

I know a guy who swears by using an electric palm sander (obviously without sandpaper), just run the sander from low point to high....viola!

I found a guy in Michigan that made my SS hoses, great quality and a very reasonable price (less than $175 for all hoses including 2 piece clutch AND that tiny hose near the rear master)...pm me if you want his info. I think it's very important to also rebuild the masters and calipers (they just become your next weakest link) when switching to SS lines. I've found since my total rebuild my linked 1984 system is plenty powerful enough to stop my bike....no issues whatsoever with "anemic" first gen brakes.

I know that sometimes things you write sound much more rude than what your intent actually is, so I don't mean to sound so rude, but, Go see a real doctor. Like perhaps an Orthopod....he may just send you to see a physical therapist (who is every bit a qualified and usually better trained than a cyropractor), but at least you'll have a diagnosis based in fact rather than conjecture.

patmac is a contraction of my very Irish name...Pat McDonough....6075 was my MOS (Military Occupational Specialty) while in The United States Marine Corps....Cryogenic Technician. It always seemed like patmac was a username that had been taken and the computer alternatives always had some sort of number added to it....I've always used patmac6075 as a first choice, because it's always available!

On my bike, even at max. air pressure, those worn out (ink pen springs...I like that) springs still bottomed out. Once I added the progressive's (and did a complete fork rebuild), my front end is silky smooth!

Sounds like a leaking slave cylinder!? Only choice is to remove and either replace or rebuild. There are some articles in the tech section. Most will tell you just get a new one (I'm guessing around $80), but I rebuilt mine....it was easy, and knock on wood hasn't leaked. This is the write up I did, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?116337-Clutch-Hydraulic-Rebuild-Tutorial

Gottcha!

I recently did my entire brake hydraulic system ('84 VR). Is the "nut" you're talking about the banjo bolt? If so you can just replace the banjo bolt (and of course the crush washers). i also found a guy in Michigan who made stainless steel brake lines for about $30 apiece. If you're already in this deep.....well, that's what always gets me in trouble....as long as I'm doing this work...may as well go all the way

Ok, so here goes... I had an '82 Yamaha XJ750 Maxim which I had sold to a member of a XJ bike site,where I'm also a member. The problem was...I live in Milwaukee and he lives in Charlotte NC....when we made the deal I made it clear that it was his responsibility come and get the bike or make arrangements to have it picked up....WELL...since I'm starting a new job in July and I was driving my wife crazy, being home all day and I really wanted to take a long distance ride (on my Venture)...I kind of made the offer to the buyer that I might be willing to deliver the bike....IF...he'd be willing to cover expenses. Guess what? He agreed! So on Monday morning I packed up the XJ (I should note that I have completely recommissioned this bike and have gone over every system, and I had every confidence she'd make the trip without incident) and pointed her southeast and hit the ignition. I made it through WI, IL, IN, and OH arriving in Cincinnati around 7:30p...just in time for some Skyline chili. I should point out the temps remained in the low 90's the entire way and the entire ride was basically flat and straight, and very boring. I would not advise anyone to take this route! I should also point out that the Yamaha XJ750 Maxim was designed as a street cruiser type of bike, NOT a long distance bike. Because of this I really couldn't ride much more than 100 miles at a time...not only because the bike was uncomfortable for log stretches, but because 120-130 miles was also the limit of the fuel supply. I got up early and made a beeline for Charlotte....the ride through WV, VA, and NC was exponentially better!...mostly mountainous, much cooler, and I mostly missed the rain...I arrived in Chalotte just as rush hour was beginning and instead of making my destination at 3:30p...I showed up around 7:00! Finishing my trip with just over 1100 miles! I wouldn't suggest this ride to anyone else, but I had a great time...met face to face with a site member I've known for 5 years (and turned out to be a great guy!), I saw some terrific sites, and ate some really good local foods! For my ride home I rented a car and drove to Maine for some lobster (something I always wanted to do)...spent some time site seeing , and then took the long way home...avoiding the main highways as best as I could....I really had a great time! Now where can I go on the Venture?

Got mine on eBay...like $75-$80...I did a complete front end rebuild (I think Freebird did a write up in the 1st gen tech section). If you just do the springs you just need to uncap the forks (read the tech write up...it's all there), fish the old springs out and drop new ones in. Same thing with the oil, just drain out the old and fill with new (again, it's all there in Freebirds write up)

I like to eat where the locals eat....some years back I was in Kansas City on business.....I knew I wanted BBQ, but didn't know one place from another....drove around for about an hour or so and came upon a place jam packed with cars....figured with that many cars in parking lot, the food must be good! Oh man was it....asked my waitress what she liked and she said "the burnt end was good".... So if the parking lot is full....eat there.

Also check out Harbor Frieght....they sell a metric hex key set for like $12-$15....with the largest key being the 17mm (I actually got my set for about $8 because a couple of the smaller keys were missing). Also a real good "poor man's tool" to hold the bottom screw in the fork is an inverted 13/16 spark plug socket....just need a long 3/8 extension (again cheapie HF tool) and you're in business! I'm not a big advocate for HF because I think most of their stuff is junk....but for these "one time" use tools...IMO you can get by with the cheapie stuff.

This post is to report the pogo'ing effect my front suspension was experiencing since the complete rebuild has diminished. I have chosen my words carefully....and say diminished, not gone away completely. To recap, over the winter I did a complete front suspension and brake system rebuild (the whole shoot'n match...complete disassembly, cleaning, sliders, seals, Progressive springs, and 10wt Fork oil. Same thing with front and rear brake systems, if it could be replaced, it was) as well as replacing both the front and rear tires (E3's). After the rebuild I had a noticeable pogo effect at low speeds (25mph and lower), it was very annoying and I would guess oncomming traffic might have thought I was driving over a rumble strip or a very washboardie road. As speed increased, the pogo went away...anything above 35/40mph, and my bike was solid as a rock...all the way up to 100mph (as fast as I'm willing to ride). Since the rebuild, the handling and feel of the bike has been superbe. My only issue was this nasty slow speed pogo'ing! Well, fast forward about 1200 miles...was out riding the old milk roads in rural Wisconsin this past weekend, and as I made my way through each little town (where I needed to reduce speeds), I made a conscious note to myself that the pogo effect seem greatly diminished...still slightly there, but probably nothing you'd notice if you weren't aware of the previous problem?! Somehow, the issue seems to have worked itself out...I had blamed the pogo effect on the 10wt fork oil and thought I should change to something heavier like 12.5 or even 15wt....but now at this point I'm going to stick with the 10wt and see if the issue goes away completely?

Won't cause any issue if you let leak out (that is if you remember to refill it). You should notice the bolt lowest in the pattern has a copper crush washer, if that gets misplaced, you continue to leak oil....that could cause you problems

I had a similar situation with them (although they did resend the "lost" item). The way the guy I talk with explained it, when you use their low cost shipping (ups to the post office then USPS makes the delivery), shipment are lost about 2/3 of the time....his advise was to pay the up charge for ups all the way....I told him I thought that was total BS and sounded like they intentionally lost items in order get cucustomer to pay more....I'll only use the if there is no other option. IMO, if you know the item will be lost in transit 2/3 of them time....STOP OFFERING THAT AS AN OPTION!?

Call the auto parts store...if the don't have them in stock, have them order some in (it's no skin off their teeth, if they don't stock them they'll just get sent back to the warehouse). When they get in ask them if you can compare them to the ones on your bike....if they don't fit return them. I used to work for O'Reilly....that's standard practice.

Ordering new ones is an easy and pretty cheap fix (like $5 at O'Reilly's), unscrew old ones, cut 1/4" of spark plug wire and screw new caps on.....DONE, no corrosion issues, no issues with improper reassembly...easy peasy

Was sort of trolling for you on this one Fool.....perhaps we can get together at some point...would like to pick your brain. With any luck I will be starting a new job in Oak Creek in July....maybe we could get together then?