Patmac6075

Glad to see you’re a conscientious neighbor! Cudo’s to you. I usually stand my bike up on the center stand when I don’t want a brisk breeze to knock it over.

Welcome from the western shores of Lake Michigan. Check out a member on this forum, Skydoc_17. Earl is a terrific guy and will have all the parts you’ll need. No need for trial and error, no need to monkey around trying to source parts the might or might not fit. And welcome, Pat

Reupped again. Sorry I haven’t been contributing as much as I had in the past, but I consistently check in and try to read the 1st Gen section completely weekly. Thanks to all for sharing your collective knowledge, by keeping this community active perhaps we can keep our beloved steeds running for seasons to come.

I just read this thread from start to finish, and one thing hasn’t been brought up...Saddlebum you say you’ve been a wrench for 40 some odd years so you probably already did this, but when you rebuild the master, there is a teeny tiny hole which is difficult to see and could be clogged....I don’t know if this could cause the problems you’ve described...but perhaps it’s worth a look. BTW, I use a single bristle from a nylon brush to clear that hole. Hope this might help.

Carl, you have helped me numerous times with advice about both my XJ750 and my Venture, your advice was always spot on. Any time I saw you contributing to a thread, I knew your answer would be correct, insightful, easy to follow and complete! Thank you my friend. You will be missed on this site. I wish you good fortune and happiness! Pat

​Looks good...excellent idea for those who ride alone.

I believe Dingy did a couple of write ups in the 1st gen tech section. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?43027-1983-1985-Throttle-Side-Electrical-Switch-Disassembly-and-Cleaning try this.

I could not see pictures from the OP, but could in your post Don.

Although I thought I’d read somewhere that for the hydraulic anti-dives once they were blocked, they were always off. The electric anti-dives once blocked were always on? I must have got it wrong.

As usual Kevin, outstanding information! My plate are fairly thick stainless, but do not have a passage....time for plan B

I should have noted, I don’t ride aggressively, I ride one up, and I have replaced the front springs with Progressives and I don’t pressurize the front forks.

Looking for some input on a really odd blown fork seal problem I’m having. First some background, about 2 years ago (15,000 mi) I’d done a complete fork and brake rebuild...I replaced or rebuilt just about everything I could. Fast forward to this spring, I bought a used set of anti-dive block off plates from a previous member (apparently his ‘84 VR finally died). The plates looked to be legit, as in, they seemed to be professionally made...made of stainless, cut to size with milled edges, and the cutouts for the o-rings were milled. Anyway, on to my problem....my anti-dives had been leaking so replacing them with block off plates was a natural fit and they worked perfectly! That is until last weekend I’d noticed one of my dust seals had popped off. I popped it back in and went for about an hour long ride. When I stopped for gas I noticed oil running down the other fork leg! That seal had completely blown out! I had ridden for two years without any seal issues, I’d gone most of the summer without an issue....and now, both side popped within hours of one another? What could have caused this? I’ve tapped both seal back in, made sure the retaining spring is properly seated and tapped the dust seals back in. I’m set to go out riding for a couple hours...I’ll report my results.

Welcome to the club!

As the title states, can someone let me know the correct size to order for copper brake crush washers? These would be for my ‘84 VR.

I recently moved to a small rural town between Milwaukee and Madison, I saw that thing riding around...pretty crazy looking! “To each his own.”

Pictures are worth a thousand words.....that picture is also worth $12 a year! That kind of help is precisely the reason I contribute. My hat goes off to you

I bought a set back when Dingy was making them, I also bought a 4 brush starter...never got around to installing the starter because the upgraded cables cured all of my starting needs. Highly recommend that you change out cables.

I wish you’da posted this two years ago....I way over paid at a local motorcycle bone yard ($25)!

I’ll start with the simple stuff....are the correct bulbs installed and are the in working condition?

Congratulations! I’m impressed by your ingenuity and tenacity! Great job.

Sometimes the easiest solution is the best. For the longest time I thought I had a problem with my cruise control, it wasn’t until I held my speed constant for about 10 seconds after I pressed the cruise button that I could let go of the throttle. I think it has something to do with building vacuum. Now as long as I don’t hit a big bump (almost always knocks my cruise off) my cruise will stay on forever.

I went out to the shed to take my bike out for a ride...dropped the bike off the center stand, and find my rear tire is flat. Long story short, I come to find that the valve core stem is leaking (soapy water). My question is, once I pulled the core it looked like C1-LRY (on the chart below). Can I replace it with a standard one like C1-SR? i travel to all the auto part stores in my area, and nobody has one!

Over the course of the last couple of years I’ve been experimenting with fork oil. After a complete rebuild (new progressive springs, seals and sliders, plus brand new E3 tires), I started with Motul 15w, at speeds over 25mph it was rock solid, but below 25 I had a very annoying “pogo-ing” effect (imagine riding on a worn out rumble strip). I then tried to mix the Motul 15w and 10w to make a 12.5w, the pogoing Was still pretty evident, then I tried a mix of Lucas 15w & 10w, the pogoing was almost nonexistent (almost). About two weeks ago I replaced my anti-dives with cover plates and used straight Lucas synthetic 10w, absolutely zero pogo....so far, I’m very happy! This is just my opinion, but since there is no standardized testing fork fork oil, one company’s 10w may not give the same results as another company’s 10w. Perhaps if I used Lucas all along, I may not have had issues....I think the Motul was very heavy.

+1 for Motion-Pro

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?116337-Clutch-Hydraulic-Rebuild-Tutorial Here is a write up I did.