Patmac6075

So far, I have just pulled the bike in the garage and thrown a cover over it. It seems I picked up a large hunk of metal in my rear tire at some point (I had been riding using the screwdriver method)... Will most likely try the fish hook or jewelers screwdriver......I just don't feel comfortable using any sort of glue or epoxy inside the lock cylinder. Like I said earlier, if worst comes to worst, I'll just pull the cylinder and dismantle it. you guys are the best, I appreciate all the input!

I just figured I'd throw in my 2 cents... #1. If you've gone through all the trouble of draining the fuel from the tank, don't forget to replace the filter...pretty easy. Also, it's really easy to drain the carb bowls, no use throwing that varnished up old goop into your cylinders. #2. If you're going to go to all the trouble of removing your starter, you might want to go ahead and just replace it....I know the cost will be prohibitive, but those things are pretty difficult to get to. Not a tough job, but you need to take off a lot of stuff to get to it. The 4 brush starter IS that much better. #3. And I know you'll get get some different opinions on this one, but when I recommissioned mine I went ahead and made sure my valve clearances were is spec before I did any work trying to fire it up. When you don't know the history of your bike, it's a good idea to get this out of the way. Again, not a particularly difficult job....but very labor intensive, and once it's done, you won't need to worry about it it also makes syncing your carbs much easier. Good luck and keep asking question, there are plenty of people who've walked the path you're on and quite a few really knowledgeable friendly people more than eager to help guide you.

Thanks Fool....was hoping I wouldn't have to remove the ignition switch, but that may be the only way.

Ok, so I had a bad day......On Saturday I went to visit my son at college in Madison, did a little tailgating before the game (I don't drink) and left just after the game got started....that was the good part. On the way home I decided to make a quick stop at Harbor Freight, I really didn't need anything, just figured I'd look around. I put my helmet in the trunk and walked in....didn't find anything I wanted and left the store. Got out to my bike and proceeded to open my trunk and retrieve my helmet....just as I flipped the trunk lid open, the bike began to tip slowly to the right....then things just sort of went into slow motion as I moved around my bike and sort of guided the beast to the ground. Looking around in obvious embarrassment, it didn't seem as if anyone saw me drop my bike....so I lift the bike as directed by the fine fellows on this site...so my dignity is still intact....but, now I can't find my key anywhere??? As I search the area, I see my key fob with the broken remnant of my key....GREAT! My key broke off in my trunk, I'm an hour from home and my wife is in Chicago! As I look in the trunk cylinder I can see the remainder of my key....I run back into HF and purchase the smallest needle-nose pliers they have and fish out the broken key. No harm, no foul, right? But I still have to get home and I don't have a key....the bulb goes off in my head, put the broken key in the ignition cylinder and turn in ignition with a flat blade screwdriver.....Great! That works and I'm able to ride home and shut things down with said screwdriver..... Well, here's my dilemma, the broken portion of the key is much deeper in the cylinder and I can't gain any purchase with even the thinnest tweezers.... Does anybody have any ideas? I've removed and cleaned ignition switches before and I guess that can be my last resort.... Any help will be most appreciated! Pat

What do your plugs look like? how is your sync? I'm thinking perhaps a vacuum leak? Maybe a clogged jet? If it were me, I'd yank the plugs first...just to see if they're all "brown paper bag" colored. Maybe you have one that's really white (lean), or one that's sooty (rich). That should get you enough information to begin narrowing your search. If you can narrow it down to one cylinder you can start eliminating what's NOT causing the problem. At least that's the way I'd go about troubleshooting the problem.

Maybe somebody can check my math, but.....I usually get around 36mpg on average riding around town and about 43mpg if I'm strictly highway (did the run into Chicago yesterday...all highway = 42.79)...so by my cipherin' I should expect to get between 190 to 220 miles on a tank (1984 XVZ12DL 5.3 gal tank)

Let me start by coming clean, I gleeped this tool from another site, but thought this may help some readers here. I had what I presumed were two complete tool kits for my '84 XVZ12DL, but neither tool kit had the dipstick for checking the oil level in the final drive. The last time changed the final drive oil I filled it with the prescribed amount from the FSM ('83 - '85 = 0.3L), so I made this simple tool.......all that's needed is a 1/4" x 3" Eyebolt, 2 - 1/4" nuts to fit, and a small washer (approx 17mm across)...that's it! Then I just measured down 24mm and (using a dremmel tool) I ground a notch between 24mm and 26mm. VIOLA! This tool is designed for '83 through '85 models. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Eyebolt%20002%20copy.jpg http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Eyebolt%20001%20copy.jpg

I see what you did there! Before I submitted the post I actually lamented about the title.....didn't think you'd be so quick though....

Riding back to Milwaukee from a day in Chicago I lost my clutch....had noticed as I was leaving a friends house that my "friction zone" seemed somewhat smaller than I was used to....I thought it was my imagination at first...temps were pretty high and I was in bumper to bumper traffic doing a lot of clutchwork when I noticed it was harder and harder to find neutral as I was coming to stops, also noticed if I pulled the clutch in at red lights, the bike would creep unless I held brake on. Was getting worse and worse until I started pumping the clutch up....that made it much easier to shift. Limped home that way and parked it. I guess it's time to check for leaks and maybe bleed the system....level in sight glass had never changed though...can see a small bubble and can see the fluid moving...fluid also looks very clear. Do you think I could be loosing the slave cylinder? I guess it could be just about any part of the system on a resurrected 30+ year old bike...worn master or slave...cracked hoses....I do seem to recall having a conversation with the original owner (had to contact him to get a lost title because the 2nd owner never had the bike titled) about some intermittent clutch issues Time to get the 'ol thinking cap out!

The downside is it sounds like you've unintentionally introduced too much air into the system. Seems unlikely, if you had a tiny air bubble in the sight glass before you bled some fluid off.....that now you would too much brake fluid in there?! Most likely is you cannot see any brake fluid in the glass now. Remedy is to get those screws replaced, refill with clean brake fluid, and do a proper bleed.

Ha Ha Ha..... To those who've tweeked a nose here or feel as if they've had their nose tweeked...it was kind of the point of the post....I find it interesting how many will explain how thoughtful, kind, and outgoing they are all the while they'll point out what a jerk "Those other guys are". I ride because I like to ride...I haven't lost any sleep....and I probably won't wave at you.....And even though you may think I'm a jerk as I ride by, those that know me might disagree. As you were.....

All of the things you have outlined to get done are things which should eventually be done on a bike of this age....I'm just not sure they all "need" to be done immediately in order to fix your issue... One thing that is often overlooked is properly setting your valve clearance....your carbs cannot be properly sync'd/set without your valve clearances being within spec....if you look to the very beginning of the FSM under "Carburetor Synchronization" the very first Note reads - "Valve clearance must be set properly before synchronizing the carburetors." The engineers at Yamaha went to great lengths to make sure this is the very first thing you read before you attempt to do a sync. Unfortunately many are intimidated by this process and choose to ignore it. Your carb sync/set will be infinitely easier and last much longer if your valves are set first. I can see you've already invested a considerable amount of both time and money, but failure to properly set your valves before your carb sync could lead to the same issues popping up again.

I am noticing the same issue...on my first oil change I only left a small bubble in the sight glass. On my most recent change I am just slightly over half way in the glass, now the oil light comes on after it's been on the side stand...while taking left turns...and on inclines. Perhaps fuller is better as long as you can still see a gap in the sight glass while on a known level surface.

Was going to use a different word, but since I wanted to keep it PG-13... Am I a Jerk, because I don't wave? Let me be clear, I'm not not waving because I think I'm cooler than anyone else or better then them or trying to be snooty....I'm also not going to get all sanctimonious and blame my decision not to wave on some ridiculous "safety" issue....I just don't pay that much attention to bikes in oncoming traffic (I mean, beyond my normal sweeping for potential danger). OK, if I'm on a clear straightaway...and the other biker drops his hand a half mile out in front of me and leaves it there....he'll elicit a wave from me...but truly, I'd be just as happy just give a smile and nod. So I ask you.....Am I a Jerk? By the way, I've got 30 years of sales experience....my customers (mostly) like me....my co-works seem to think I'm a friendly person....I'm pretty sure my family and friends think I'm a nice enough guy....so why do I feel like a jerk for not waving when I ride my motorcycles? I don't wave at anybody while I'm in my car all day?!

Beau-Kat, if I were you I'd put a shout out (new post here or Watering Hole, or maybe Classified/Wanted) and see if somebody has a known good TCI would lend you theirs....Maybe offer next day shipping both ways or something? This way you could rule out TCI issue once and for all.

Your post Brenner kind of reminds me of what my dad used to say; "There are more horses asses than there are horses!" One cannot paint with such a broad brush though when condemning any group...Black, White, Republicans, Democrats, rich, poor, Harley riders....every group is made up of individuals. A great man once said: I have a dream that my four little children will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the color of their skin, but by the content of their character.

I’ve searched the pages on this forum for an easy guide for switching your fuse box from the glass tube type fuses to the “blade” type fuse. Total Time: 1hr Total Cost: less than $20 Now let me be the first to point out that there are many different ways to make this switch, this is just the way I did it. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Venture%20Fusebox%201.jpg http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Venture%20Fusebox%202.jpg 1. Since we are working on our electrical system, it is best practice to disconnect the battery’s positive (+) cable 2. Assemble what you’ll need in a convenient place: Parts – 5 port ATO Fuse Box, 3 15amp and 2 10amp ATO fuses (I thought about using “mini” fuses but didn’t want to wait for a panel. Also, many member have used boxes with more ports..I chose the 5 port…), 10 pack heat shrink “blade” connectors (in retrospect I might not use the heat shrinkable connectors again because once they cool they become rigid which meant I needed to rebend them a second time to get them to fit. It also looks messy). Tools – Phillips Head & Std. Blade screwdrivers. Wire stripper, crimper, wire cutter. * A lot of guys will suggest soldering the connection which is the better way to go but I chose to crimp my connection. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Venture%20Fusebox%203.jpg 3. Cut, Strip, Crimp, and Shrink each connector paying close attention to the position of each wire. I did 1 wire at a time on one side of the box at a time….just made it easier for me. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Venture%20Fusebox%207.jpg 4. This next step is purely optional, but I wanted to keep the ACC screws and a mounting strip. So I stripped out all the fuse holders and the paper fuse guide and used a dremmel tool and cut down the size of the old fuse holder. I used this to mount my new fuse box. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Venture%20Fusebox%205.jpg That’s it put the fuses in and you’re done! Now get out and ride!

I’ve searched the pages on this forum for an easy guide for switching your fuse box from the glass tube type fuses to the “blade” type fuse. Total Time: 1hr Total Cost: less than $20 Now let me be the first to point out that there are many different ways to make this switch, this is just the way I did it. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Venture%20Fusebox%201.jpg http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Venture%20Fusebox%202.jpg 1. Since we are working on our electrical system, it is best practice to disconnect the battery’s positive (+) cable 2. Assemble what you’ll need in a convenient place: Parts – 5 port ATO Fuse Box, 3 15amp and 2 10amp ATO fuses (I thought about using “mini” fuses but didn’t want to wait for a panel. Also, many member have used boxes with more ports..I chose the 5 port…), 10 pack heat shrink “blade” connectors (in retrospect I might not use the heat shrinkable connectors again because once they cool they become rigid which meant I needed to rebend them a second time to get them to fit. It also looks messy). Tools – Phillips Head & Std. Blade screwdrivers. Wire stripper, crimper, wire cutter. * A lot of guys will suggest soldering the connection which is the better way to go but I chose to crimp my connection. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Venture%20Fusebox%203.jpg 3. Cut, Strip, Crimp, and Shrink each connector paying close attention to the position of each wire. I did 1 wire at a time on one side of the box at a time….just made it easier for me. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Venture%20Fusebox%207.jpg 4. This next step is purely optional, but I wanted to keep the ACC screws and a mounting strip. So I stripped out all the fuse holders and the paper fuse guide and used a dremmel tool and cut down the size of the old fuse holder. I used this to mount my new fuse box. http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz131/Patmac6075/Venture%20Fusebox%205.jpg That’s it put the fuses in and you’re done! Now get out and ride!

(Scratching my head!), Well, I'm beginning to believe you've got an electrical issue and not a fuel issue, perhaps something related to your speedo/dash, as you had originally suggested. I'm not very knowledgable about electrical issues, and I know even less about Royal Stars My suggestion would be to repost in the Royal Star Tech Talk section, let them know what has already ruled out. Sorry I could have been more help

I'm still confused about how it's losing power....is it pulling strong in 1 & 2? All the way to redline? Is it bogging in 3-4-5 or cutting out? Might be worthwhile to change out the fuel filter...crazy girlfriend might have put something in fuel that has it slightly clogged? Might drain all the old fuel out too... My bike sat for 10 years and as I was recommissioning it I did all the routine maintenance except I failed to drain about a gallon of stale fuel...bike started up great, but just sort of faded after 5k rpm...ran a couple of tanks of clean fresh fuel through and the power progressively came back.

I know it would cost an arm and a leg to ship, but Milwaukee Cycle Salvage has at least 50 pair of Venture side covers in all sorts of colors....might be worth it just to give them a call...heck I'm always looking for a reason to dig around there...drop me a pm, let me know what you're looking for and I'll snap some pix for you.

Good luck to you Jeff. Being a Milwaukee guy myself, please let know if you need anything. I'd be happy to do any running around you need

As I am somewhat electrically disadvantaged....I'm hoping there is a good write-up somewhere or someone can give some guidance. I'm looking to replace the glass fuses with a "blade" type fuse box, I'd also like to add a switched circuit for a lighter and a set of driving lights. Now I know a member on the site sells a complete kit, but I have access to all the parts at cost, so all I need is a good "walk-through" set of directions...."Is anyone aware of a past write-up?" Really, I'm just confused about the wires that attach to the screws at the top (toward the front of the bike) of the old fuse box...where do I attach these? Thanks in advance

Need more precise info....can you run it all the way to redline in 1 & 2? How about going up a steep hill in 1 & 2, does it still have similar power? When you say loses power in 3-4-5...is it bogging and sputtering or is just a straight cut of engine? What about very slow speeds shift into 3rd? What do the plugs look like (pix whould be nice)? Just trying to distinguish between electrical issue, lean issue, fuel supply issue (which I guess, technically is a lean issue). Have you done any work on the bike since it was known to run well....replaced anything? That's how I would approach it......

Another thing might be to remove the spark plugs and spray some Deep Creep in the cylinders a day or two before you plan on firing it up...me personally, I'd do the Deep Creep, wait a day, rotate the assembly 180 degrees, spray again, wait a day...spray..rotate. Then I'd put new plugs in and try to fire.