WIZ

I have the largest F4 windshield on my venture and love the improvement in the buffeting for both driver and passenger. Wiz

Sam Sorry I'm just replying I just read this post and read your question to me. I replaced the whole assembly, I had to remove the glass from the headlight and cut the housing to install the new headlight. I also have xpite driving lights installed and couldn't be happier. The light output both night and day is amazing. Ron

Sunpie is the headlight I've had in my bike for the past two years, along with the x-pite driving lights I am very pleased. I do a lot of night driving and this set up lights the road up better than any I've tried before. My riding buddies also comment quite often about how much more visible my bike is during the day. Ron

I installed these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013O...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 in my bike last year what an amazing difference. If you search help with headlight options, and click on that post there is several pictures that I posted to how the difference. When I installed mine I had to slightly modify the small inner ring on my driving lights to allow these to fit didn't take much. I don't think you'll find a brighter light for $42.99. Ron

I ordered mine off ebay. Just search for 25mm valve shims. I paid about $20.00 for 4 shims. There are all different sizes on there and fast shipping. Ron

I replaced my rubber plugs about 18 months ago. And recently I had some antifreeze leaking down in about the same area. I took the fins off to place a coin on the back off the fins to stop the leak, but after further checking it was the hose going into the center of the valve cover area that was slightly leaking and the antifreeze was leaking down through the weep hole at the spark plug and running down the side cover just like when the rubber plugs were leaking. I have had this happen on both off the hoses going into the valve cover area on both sides of the bike. While you are pulling the fins double check those hoses just to make sure. Ron

Barry I'm interested in the carb tune you have. I live in Maryland my zip code is 21750 could you check on the shipping and pm me a total price. I have also sent you a pm. Thanks Ron

I took the complete ashtray assembly out of a 1987 ford bronco I I. I mounted the upper assembly into the cassette player housing and then made a 4" x 5 3/4" tray out of 22 gauge steel. I then cut the sides off of the ashtray and welded them onto the tray I made. Then I cut the fold down door from the cassette player housing and cleaned the foam out of the inside of the door and filled it with jb weld. After that hardened I drilled and threaded 4 holes to secure it to the front of the tray. Ron

Just finished removing my whole stereo system and CB. I installed a blue tooth marine stereo and custom made a storage tray to replace the cassette deck. Sorry the first picture is upside down I tried to flip it but couldn't, don't understand why it is upside down the original picture isn't. Ron

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Ron

I know this is an old thread but I'm having the same issues. Went to go for a ride Thursday and battery was too weak to even run the fuel pump. My bike charges between 14 -14.2 amps while riding so i know the charging system is ok. It had been two weeks since my last ride. I checked the battery voltage and it only showed 4.68 volts. The battery is only about a month old so I took it to have it charged and tested. It tested ok. I checked with my meter and showed .06-.07 amp draw when placed between the negative wire and the negative battery post. I then pulled fuses one at a time and found the draw to be on the 10 amp back up fuse. I then split the fairing and found the draw coming from the red/green wire that feeds the srereo. I removed the wire from the white plug and plugged the plug back together. I set the clock on my bike and turned the switch off to make sure it was still keeping time correct. It is, so does that mean the trip mileage will also be backed up? I don't use the stereo on my bike since I got my sena headsets. So as long as the clock and mileage are backed up I'm not concerned with the stereo. Thanks , Ron

Bob you were right I received my replacement rectifier from Rick's and installed it yesterday evening. My volts at idle are 13.8-13.9 and when revved they reach 14.1 with my driving lights on. Ron

Talked to our local yamaha service tech and told him my numbers, he told me that they were well within range and should be fine as long as they stay there. I took the bike out for about 120 mile ride today. The warmest part of the day the volts stayed right at 13.8-13.9 volts. When the temperature cooled down the volts went up and stayed at a steady 14.2-14.3 volts. For now I'm just going to ride it and monitor the volts. Thanks to all who offered their help. Ron

I did test the stator and rectifier the results are in the original post. I called Rick's again today but they wouldn't let me speak to the tech, they told me I need to contact the company that I purchased the new rectifier from to verify if it is normal for there rectifier to drop voltage when revved. Is the .2 to .3 loss between the rectifier and battery acceptable if the volts at the battery are in range or do I need to dive into the harness to try to find it. Ron

I contacted Rick's and there tech told me that it sounded like the rectifier went bad and took my battery with it. I installed a new full charged battery. I tested volts at both the battery and rectifier. It seemed that if I had the ground on the rectifier ground wire and the positive on the battery I would get a higher voltage, so after reading some posts on here I added another ground wire to the rectifier ground and frame. It showed a .2 volt increase after adding the ground. My current number's are idling: 14.08 at battery and 14.53 at rectifier, when revved 13.88 at battery and 14.24 at rectifier. I have unplugged and cleaned every plug that I can find, cleaned all of the controls on the bars and checked the ignition switch. I am still trying to find why i'm losing .2 to .3 volts from rectifier to battery but am stumped as to why the volts go down when revved. Is it possible that because i'm getting 14.53 at the rectifier when idling that the rectifier is shunting extra volts when revved since it is a the top of the output it is designed for. Ron

When I installed the new stator I soldered the three wires under the seat for the stator. The readings on the three wires at the rectifier is about 25 vac at idle and they go up to about 150 vac at high rpms and they are all three are pretty much identical. When checking them from the ground it shows open. Thanks, Ron

The rectifier that charged at up to 17 volts was the old original rectifier that I had laying around from my issues back in may I just stuck it on to try after the new rectifier I got would drop voltage as I increased rpms. It was only on for matter of seconds. Just wanted to verify that my stator was charging and not dropping voltage as rpms were increased. The Rick's rectifier I took off was only charging about 10.5 volts. Thanks, Ron

I had charging issues back in may and came to the conclusion my stator and rectifier were bad. I replaced both with Rick's. This past weekend my issues returned when my bike wouldn't start. I charged the battery and was able to get it home. When I test the stator it is putting out about 150 amps and around 3000 rpms. I ordered another rectifier to install while waiting on my warranty replacement. Cleaned all the grounds I could find and installed the new rectifier. It charges 13.8 at idle but drops to 13.2 when engine is reved. I put my old original rectifier on and it charges 14.5 at idle and goes up to 17 when reved. I don't understand why with one rectifier the volts go up when reved and the other the volts goes down when reved. Did I get a bad rectifier or what? Thanks, Ron

Just got home from the WNY Rally. Had a great time meeting some great people and making new friends. Looking forward to next year. WIZ

I just changed mine ealier this week. You have to take the two bolts out of the driver's floor board to allow it to drop down out of the way so you can get the bolt out. Took me about fifteen minutes to change mine. WIZ

I just had an issue with my phone cord it would charge in some car 12v outlets but would intermittently charge plugged into my bike. Purchased a new Samsung charger now I can play music and run phone GPS through my sena headsets and actually gain battery charge on my trips. WIZ

I had 130,000 miles on my bike when I changed the bearings. I did get to ride it after the steering head bearing change, it helped quite a bit. The instability I had was the bike not wanting to track straight especially around trucks and other traffic at higher speeds above 70. If the bearings were dry or not loaded properly they will wear much quicker. Wiz

When I did the quick check on the steering and swing arm bearings they both appeared to be ok with no rough or grinding feeling to them. But when I tore it down to replace them, both showed significant wear. After replacement the handling was greatly improved. Since this post my rear shock went out, I only noticed a small puddle under my bike one time but the next ride I could feel the pogo feeling from the shock. I ordered and installed a hagon shock, the bike now handles better than it has since I have owned it. The quick checks are good checks but if you are having issues don't rule out the possibility that the bearings are worn enough to cause your issues. Wiz

I don't normally post on here much, but after my findings I wanted to share. Earlier this year I installed a 130 front tire on my 99 Venture. The first trip was on back roads and loved the slow speed handling. My first trip on the highway had me reconsidering. It seemed very unstable so I started researching posts to find the problem. I started with the steering head quick check and it seemed to be OK. I was riding with my brother and we got our speed up to around 100 mph and I got into a death wobble. It about 1/8 mile to get it under control. (I don't typically drive like this speed) I then ordered steering head bearings and replaced them. They were bad. I checked the swing arm bearing next and they were also bad so I replaced them. Both helped a lot. But since I wasn't sure about the service history of the bike, I went ahead and replaced both wheel bearings. I didn't notice any of these problems with the 150 tire but they were magnified by the 130 tire. So for some of you that have tried the 130 tire and changed it because of the handling, you may want to check your bearings closer. I did the quick check on the steering head and swing arm and both checked out but when I tore it down both sets of bearings still had grease on them but when I cleaned the races both showed significant wear. And after replacing, bike handling was much improved. Wiz

Not sure if Steve (M61A1MECH) in the classifieds makes a harness for first gens, but when I installed my hitch and wiring on my 1999 venture I purchased a wiring harness that plugs into the original bike harness without cutting and converts tag wires that you can connect to with your trailer plug wire that goes from a 5 to 4 wire set up. definitely worth sending him a pm he makes a nice harness. Wiz