gggGary

bet high 2's would buy this, it sure reads like a nice machina, http://appleton.craigslist.org/mcy/5666775249.html I was tempted to look at it just before I bought an RSV. With hindsight, it might have been the better bike.

I bought a Utopia backrest from a member but it didn't fit my 6'3" frame. So I took it off and built my own yesterday. I had a memory foam sheepskin back pad from a different bike I put on a backing I made. Supports are 1" X 3/16" from the hardware store. Not much to it and after 100 miles last night 2 thumbs up! With my long frame and +2 ape index the stock handle bars are right where they should be. I have 3 "stock" seats now and am deciding which to keep. The Utopia The one I made the pad has a cross bar with recesses the uprights fit into.

Found a strato 18 thread. http://roadstarclinic.com/component/option,com_fireboard/Itemid,1355/func,view/catid,61/id,456413/

What tire do you have on there? Was it plug a play or was there dome "fiddling" Any comments on handling before and after? Will the existing rotors bolt on that wheel?

A "neutral trick" on any wet clutch bike; let the clutch out slightly, just enough that the bike urges forward then pull lever in again while the foot tugs the shifter to neutral. The front brake can be on, actual movement isn't needed. This works because it squeezes the oil out from between the plates reducing the tension on the gears that resists moving them along the shaft. It takes some practice to get the rhythm, timing of doing this perfect but it works.

So glad you made it through! Didn't see one last night till it was in the road headed towards me on the RSV, then it veered and went back to the side it came from...

Just wondering.... how many times has a bike ended up in pieces on the shop floor because the owner assumed the "new parts" were good?

Did it, it wasn't fun, mainly because on mine the bulb retaining wire kept twisting/slipping out of position in the metal loop that holds it making it very difficult to put back. My hands are on the smaller side. a very long needle nose pliers I have was helpful. Still looking for the splitting the fairing how to.

That is a concern of mine but I did a search just now and found no posts about melted wired wires. I do not have passing lamps which use "about" the same amount of current with the stock bulb as this one? My bike is a G2 that appears to have a metal reflector? NOTE: see post above, I changed bulbs again to the Broview S5 H4, put about 6K miles on so far with no issues. To my mind this is the answer to the RSV headlight question bike hasn't moved, dark garage. stock bulb low Wagner 80 watt low Stock bulb high / Wagner 100 watt high I also have an H4 HID kit will plug that in next..... turns out HID kit provides high beam only but here's the pic.

Picture progression; stock, then Wagner BP1210-H4 100/80 from NAPA, now Broview S5 LED. I ran the Wagner for a couple weeks, stayed a bit worried about the high power draw, still wanted more light! now have installed an H4 LED, BUT not just any LED. We have a winner folks! The pics don't do it justice this is a major improvement. Possibly the "holy grail" LED we've been waiting for. One ride so far, I was able to put the bulb in without removing the fairing, um maybe not EASY but got r done. Hint; the instructions aren't super clear, you remove the H4 ring from the new bulb with a slight twist, install just the H4 ring with the factory clips, THEN install the the new bulb into the ring. I will probably pull the fairing front to properly stow and mount the power pack for the LED. Stock bulb 100 80 Wagner bulb Bro-view S5 LED The LED on low beam nice cut off, effective but not as harsh "pitch black" as some bulbs make it. I had to adjust the headlight down a bit which gave me a better road view on high as well. White road signs are pretty harsh, bright, in the high beam, but yellow signs are fine. A pair on flea bay, to my door from California in 5 days, $48 with shipping. Another vender advertised the Broview S5 with a single motorcycle option but shipped a different LED bulb with a fan, I sent that back. Bonus: the LED is advertised to draw 30 watts. half the stocker on bright.

On my list before the camping trip, would rather be able to slide my foot back there also. Was thinking about eliminating the whole shifter and the shaft/bracket it mounts on and bending, fitting, bolting a random used shifter to the "inner linkage" pivot arm.

Ouch hope the dr's find they were in error and you're just fine! Getting a BP1210/H4 from NAPA (100/80) watt to see how that works and if the wiring can take it...

Anyone try the Halla 100/55 halogen bulbs?

Will have to beg off darn it headed to the UP for a RSV camping trip that weekend.

what 130's yah guys running? Any issue with load ratings on these "husky" sized bikes?

removed cleaned and polished the taillight lens, made a reflector for the inside to help with brightness.

Just a note IF you get a steering wobble going (a very scary thing at speed) there is a way to stop it. You need to push forward hard on both hand grips. You must PUSH forward not PULL back, pulling back on the grips will make the oscillation WORSE. Google PIO (Pilot induced oscillation) for more info. The difference has to do with how human nerve / muscle reaction works. I discovered this technique under very trying circumstances when I was a lad, at speed on an old XS650. It was truly do or die that day. Thanks for the write up! I am considering a different size front tire at next change. I kinda think I can feel the sidewall flex of that fat old 150 affecting turn in/out at most speeds. It feels like I make an input, wait for the tire to "load up/move" in reaction to the applied force then the bike moves the way I intend. My 99 has 10K miles and I just adjusted the steering bearing tension.

Would be nice to see how they did this mod. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?86410-Whine-question

Is some gear "whine" normal? varies with throttle, especially at slower speeds? Found the power outlet, thanks for that. Dual USB port installed in it although I may put in a 3 amp hard wire USB, the phone sucks serious juice when it's doing GPS routing. Anyone "double deck" a phone mount above the audio controls? Not quite ready to yank the radio stuff out though I did on my last bike.

4.29 gallon at 197 miles about 20 miles after stumble sent me to reserve. never saw the light come on. (wife can verify....) It was my first day on the bike. Will look for the overfill cheat thread, Thanks. My old XS650 doesn't have a "neck skirt", topped off just before motel, parking lot was quite angled, hot, sunny. Fuel overflowed and stripped the decals off a very nice paint job. Mr paint got it looking good again.

I'll vote loose battery terminal connection but yup it's just a random loose connection "somewhere".

Well futzing is rewarding in it's own right. But wouldn't it be handy if the low fuel light came on BEFORE the motor stumbles? I am religious about trip reset at fuel up anyways. stumbled at 176 and went to 198 before fuel. PS thanks for all the secrets! The cruise set/speed drop thing had been bugging me already. I'll guess the cruise set up down rocker is supposed to "self cancel" return to the center position? Mine doesn't, it sat in a very windy dusty area for a long time. Dousing with garage door lube didn't "fix" it, hey a guy can HOPE.

put a boroscope in the (empty) tank so you can see what you are doing with the coat hanger hook. Smartphone micro usb lighted borescopes are like $10 anymore. And can be very useful.

Note' my rotor bolts were a rusty mess. I ordered some stainless button head replacements (bout a buck a throw at Fastenal) but didn't want to put those old ones back on, used allenheads and washers til the right bolts come in. There isn't room for those taller heads to clear the fork tubes with the washers under them. No washers and they just cleared the tubes on mine.