speakerfritz

simple test will tell all. after you finish riding your bike for the day, disconnect the battery. after 12 hrs come back and check your at rest battery voltage state of charge. if all is well , your battery will be 12.7 volts which means 100% state of charge. that means your charging system is able to keep your battery charged. as you go down in voltage per the attached pic, your state of charge drops. this assestment needs to happen after the battery is disconnected for about 12hrs. if for example, your state of charge is 12.2 volts, you have a 60% charge. operating at a 70% charge will cut your battery life in half.

I did a quick scan of this thread and may have missed this...are you using motorcycle oil or car oil? One of the reasons auto oil is not recommended for bimes whi shared sumps is the milage improvement additives used in some auto oils will cuase clutch slippage. as will oil additivies with moly in them. so do not over look that as a possible contributor. options to MC oils is desiel engine oil which have the zinc and phospurous levels you find in MC oil and desel oil is pretty abundant.

I have a 2013 Venture and my owners manual says speeds over 80mph is not recommended with the toruing package installed. So, if you want to get to the bottom of this, remove your bags and truck, and repeat your assestment.

I use a hanging wardrobe bag, hang my formal wear, then roll that up and secure with bunge cords, put it in a large garbage bag to water proff it, strap it down to my truck lid rack. When I get there, hang the closes in the bath room, and when I shower, the steam seems to relax any wrinkles that did occur.

yes...and in other words...not being able to sustain your battery manufactures recomended charge rate ...which is probally 13.75...means that your battery is probally not getting fully charged. you can test this by checking the no load at rest voltage and translating that into the battery state of charge (google for the state of charge chart). so the inplication of having , say a 75% charge battery is that your alternator and regulator will need to participate in the startup process and neither can provide the cold cranking amps it will take to start the engine with out exceeding the systems amp rating. eventually, the regular will fail again.

I was also confused about the emmissions valve, until I installed the stand and saw what has hitting. Doing the flip was not enough to clear it...I needed a washer as a spacer. Is your bike lowered? going to try putting the rear wheel on a 2X4 when I get home to see if that amount of rear tire lift would be enough to use the stand.

I never understood why riders would rather lean a bike into a turn than just turn the steering bars. Been riding for 40 years and if I want to make a turn, I just turn the steering bars. Never have to worry about lean angle limits. Having a passneger and a trailer...seems like a lot at stake for on the edge riding if you ask me.

The good news....I got the stand and it was awesome build quality...decent directions...and fairly accurate install proceedure. The bad news....it does not work if you lower the rear of your bike. Now, mind you when I was a 180lb SSG in the ARMY back in 1982 I was able to easily get my yamaha xs1100 midnight special on its center stand Today, weighing 290, and being able to bench press 275, me and my neighbor both at the same time tried to get the bike up on the stand and no luck. After thinking about it...I realized in order for the center stand to work, Id have to lift the bike up an 1nch to make up for the lowering kit and then do the lift and lean to put it on its center stand. So basically, if you lower the rea of the bike....the instrcutions on how to put the bike up on center wont work. Thught about it some more today while at work...and maybe if I ride the rear of bike onto a 2X4 the thickness of the 2X4 would raise the bike up to the original height and the center stand use instructions might work. will try that to night. May wind up having to carry a 6" peice of 2X4 in my saddle bag if I need to use the centre stand.

definitely, jetting is all about richening up the fuel mixture to achive more power ....high AFR will always result in lower MPG.

not sure what the video was all about.....didnt see any trailers

I traded in a 2000 Honda shadow aero on a 2007 Harley Ultra and got high book on the honda.

before committing to a particular cam swap, double check what the compression ration should be to support the cam. cams that move power to the mid band typically need higher compression pistons. vmax has a compression ratio of 10.5:1, 2nd gen royal star has a compression ratio of 10.0:1. dont know what a first gen royal star has.

Thanks for the offer....I'm debating between two HF models....I need to see them up close before deciding on which model.

recommend you call and confirm actually in stock

great project.

a trailer flipped over that detaches from the bike would be a pretty gangerous road obstical a trailer flipped over which is chained to a bike that was slammed into the ground becuase the trailer flipped over would be an even bigger road obstical but my state requires chains...so thats what I will be doing

If I ever need to go in for warranty....my hitch would come off....no sense complicating a warranty claim.

yes...I def need to move on this project. went to atlantic city for a wedding thsi weekend and the only thing stopping us from taking the bike would have been solved with one of these trailers. a little too much to put in trunk and saddle bags and to nice of a weekend to opt for the car. The little trailer would have been perfect.

maybe the color scheme used on the 2nd Gens are too dark....unlike the color schemes for the 1st Gen......the hot pink is def easier to see at night than the Ravel color for example.

thats correct....I dont want to drill the plugs out. want to know if this is another one of those 80/20 rule things. basic jet upgrade gets you 80% of the possible change of 1 yudoal and drilling...hacking...wacking...and slaping...gets you an incremental 20% of 1 yudoal . I would be fine with the 80% change of 1 yudoal its like the change your plugs and get better.....and put in washers to point the gap to the intake to get more better. I just change the plugs I dont stack washers and you probally do not either.

the better lowering kit has a caliper relocation bracket to avoid bottoming out.

a little late to the party...but let me add..ever wonder why so many trailers on the road are registered in Maine? Maine accpets out of state registrants and your state has to accept the maine plates. 35 bucks for 5 yrs. everything can be done via email and mail. no inspections needed.

anyone use one of these behing there royal star class bike? http://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-capacity-78-inch-tag-along-trailer-66771.html the only thing I would change are the tires...2 ply are only rated for 55mph, 4 ply would be good for 70mph...not that I would go that fast with a trailer but don't think a 2 ply tire would cut it. I've had 2ply tires blow out on trailers before.

dropped a bike twice in my life due to front wheel lock....wonder if this device would help...anyone try one....justed ordered a few to give them a run. http://www.tcbbrakesystems.com/

I've been riding for 41 years. Few times with stator, regulator, battery problems. most non efi bikes need little power to actually run once started....main power draw if the lighting system. many ways of recharding the battery along the way.....always carry mini jumper cables...those cig lighter to cig lighter work good also...I keep a small charger in my kit and have used it on more than one occacion.