BlueSky

When you synced the carbs, did you try adjusting the idle mixture screws? I'm in the process of valve adjustment on my Kawasaki ZN700 four. It only has 6k plus miles on it and the valves are too tight to meet spec on 3 of the 4 cyl and the 4th is at the lower edge of spec. I have revved the crap out of that engine though and a few times over revved it when I missed a shift. It will not shift quickly when it's revved tight. (10,000 rpm redline) The Yamaha V4s may be entirely different though. Cowpuc says he ran his 5 XVZ1200s over 200k miles and never adjusted the valves!

You can also test the gauges by teeing the lines together and hooking the last line to one carb vacuum connection. Although I love my mityvac!

Sounds like you lost way more than $200 worth of shims!?

After my sad experience with the Motion Pro manometers, I decided I didn't want that type of gauge. Using tees I connected all four gauges to my hand held mityvac and checked. All 4 gauges read the same. So, I'm happy with the gauge set.

My 07 is similar to yours. It only has about 24k miles on it so it's been sitting a lot too. I don't ride it that often and one cylinder seems dead on initial startup and starts firing after warming. I suspect that cyl is #4 that is running a little low in temp. I bought the same sync gauge set but I stupidly paid for the K&L brand which is also made in Taiwan I found out after it arrived. I suspect it's the very same set you bought for half as much. I'm changing the spark plugs too and I'm not buying the NGK brand. When I bought the ZN700 in 2009, it only had 1k miles on it. One spark plug was dead. I replaced them with NGK and recently with 6k miles on the bike one of those was causing the low temp in cyl #1. So, I'm getting a low opinion of NGK plugs.

Well now, I went for a ride on my 07 RSV today and checked the exhaust temps afterwards. #1 and 2 checked mid-200s. #3 checked almost 400 and #4 checked less than 200. So, syncing the carbs is on my "to do" list now?

Try Pinwall cycle or ebay

According to the Summit ad, the solder in the sleeve starts melting at 280 degrees. This may not be a good application for stator wire connections. That temperature might be exceeded in that application? Don't know?

The #1 cylinder on my 4 cyl ZN700 exhaust pipe was reading about 100 degrees below the other 3. I cleaned the carb. Didn't help. I synced the carbs. That cyl was almost closed at idle and it needed syncing really bad. Didn't help the temp though. I ohm checked the coils, spark plug wires, and caps and they checked good. Finally, I changed the spark plug and that fixed it!!!! Your problem is the opposite since yours is running hotter than the other 3 but I thought I would tell my story just to say, sometimes the last thing you suspect is the culprit.

Man, that is slicker than owl poop!

You should have used carb cleaner during the shotgun method. It's a lot stronger than seafoam but it should not come into contact with rubber parts. Syncing the carbs might help a bunch.

Another thing you could try is the shotgun method of cleaning the carb. If you do a search, you should be able to find the instructions.

I recommend putting a can of seafoam or gumout with PEA in the gas tank. And syncing the carbs. And see what happens.

If it isn't firing the temp will be lower. The fuel mix is off on that high temp cyl.

Yeah, lots of interest in the US election all over. I've been watching a lot of skynews australia on utube and they are highly interested. we voted yesterday. In NC in person voting has been going on the last two weeks. And the SCOTUS has ruled that NC absentee ballots can be counted up to 9 days after Nov 3 if they are postmarked by Nov 3!!!??? WTF?

Due to the heat shields, it's kinda hard to get a good reading on the exhaust pipes of an RSV. But, 400 is way too high I'm sure. I check the exhaust pipes on my ZN700 inline four often and they run around 250 to 300 degrees about 5 inches from the head. A while back I checked them after a 1 1/2 hour ride and all four measured about 265.

Thank You Don for your hard work setting up this site! I'm slowly getting used to the new look.

I usually use a pint plastic jar with two holes cut into the top, one for the tube from the caliper and the other for a vent. The fluid that I bled out covers the end of the plastic tube preventing air from getting sucked back into the line. I've used this method to gravity bleed my brakes more than once. You can pump the MC if you need to and not worry about air getting back into the lines. When my son left home I lost my pedal pumper for my autos and had to come up with a way to bleed the brakes solo.

I bled my 2007 RSV just like I bleed my autos which is pumping the pedal or lever and holding while opening the bleed valve. I did use my hand operated mityvac some too to help out.

The early RSTDs have lower hp engines but I thought all of the RSVs had the same engine. I think they all have the same hp rating.

Contact the members who have parts bikes and ask.

Starting when it is pushed is the weird thing when it won't start when cranked with the starter. Seems like if it was the sensor, it wouldn't matter. But, when it comes to electronic stuff, you never know. Perhaps there is some resistance/corrosion in the sensor connection preventing it from getting enough voltage when the starter motor is drawing down the voltage. wild guessing here?

Have you checked the ads on this site?

That appears to be a weird problem. The battery is strong enough to turn the engine over but the engine won't fire??? I think I would check the battery voltage sitting and also when the engine is running to see if the voltages are high as expected. 12.6 sitting and 14 charging. Perhaps load test the battery? I don't know. Weird!

Sounds like a big project. Check the compression of the engine before you spend too much money on it. if you have the time and the interest, go for it!