BlueSky

This particular plug problem affects the 2004 thru 2008 5.4s and maybe some of the 4.6s. The Ford V8s (the 2 valve engines) from 97 thru 2003 tend to blow out plugs if they aren't tightened properly. There is only about 4 threads holding them in and Ford originally recommended 8 ft lbs of torque for them. 28 ft lbs is the current recommendation and they wont' blow out. Some of the 4.6s were 2V after 2003 but I'm not sure exactly when they were changed to 3V. The same is true for the V10s those years. 2Vs blew out plugs. 3Vs had sticking breaking plugs.

This is a standard issue with the 5.4L F150s. You need to run a bottle of chevron techron in the fuel for about 3 tanks to clean up the carbon in the combustion chamber. Then, spray some penetrating oil around the plugs and let it sit for a while before attempting to remove them. The recommendation from the f150online site is to use a small battery operated impact to gently unscrew them. Also, the latest recommendation is to warm up the engine slightly before removing. The barrel of the plug is what corrodes and sticks to the deep hole the plugs are in. It's not the threads that stick. Put anti-seize on the barrels of the new plugs to facilitate the next removal, not on the threads. Another recommendation is to thoroughly clean the holes before installing new plugs.

Best of luck to you with the surgery! I hope you heal fast!

Being dehydrated can cause cramps. Are you taking a diuretic for bp?

That is how to get them to last for a looonnng time. I have a friend who drives like that and puts at least 240k miles on all of his cars. Me, I have a heavy foot. I've calmed down a lot from my misspent youth but I still drive aggressively for an old fart.

Things that don't flex are prone to breaking if stressed too much. The video doesn't make the Ford look good though for sure.

Interesting, but I'm not sure how relevant it is. Most of us don't put trucks in a bind like that.

A few weeks ago, I replaced the lower ball joints in my 2002 F150 4x4 Scab (134k miles). They are held on the control arm by press fit and a clip. After taking the clip out, they have to be hammered out. then a ball joint press was needed to press the new joints back in. I'm a tool addict and bought the press instead of trying to borrow one. My wife will have one heck of a yard sale to get rid of all my tools when I kick the bucket!!

I was 26. I bought a new Honda 71CB350 twin and spent an hour learning how to ride it before riding it 60 miles to get it home.

The lower ball joint typically supports the weight. So, even if it is worn the weight of the vehicle keeps the ball pressed tightly in its socket. There probably is a specified amount of play that is acceptable and the alignment shops may or may not know what that is or believe it. And, I have seen a tool that measured play in a ball joint although it was a long time ago. A guy I went to college with had a 60's Mercury Comet that he dropped off at the local Kmart to have the advertised special ball joints installed. They called him up and told him the ball joints were within spec. So, he invited me to go with him and check. The mechanic had a tool attached to the car that did indeed measure the play. On this particular car and I think all Ford cars back then with a similar suspension, the allowed play was 0.250" or a quarter of an inch. Hard to believe but it's true. I had a Mustang back then it drove the alignment guys nuts when they told me it needed new ball joints and I told them it was within factory specs. They would pull out the chart and sure enough, it said 0.250". Then they would say, "Well, they need replacement anyway." Eventually, I replace them just to shut up the alignment guys. The new ball joints were made tighter than the Ford joints.

Booder, Last post was 09 (September). Too much Thanksgiving Cheer? I believe there are directions in the tech section for "shotgunning" the carbs. That might do the trick.

Years ago at Disney Worlds Epcot center, I saw a video in the US exhibit of James Whitmore doing a Will Rogers show. It was most enjoyable. If you ever get the chance to see it, you won't be disappointed.

http://www.bikebandit.com/community/videos/how-to-plug-tubeless-motorcycle-tire?roi=echo3-30537106977-31751243-85b8eab9700bc0a1aa7f20385ce7fcf0&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=promo_BB_News&utm_source=Fri_112015_BB_News&utm_content=video_plug_tubeless_tire

Congratulations! A wing is what I wanted but I wasn't serious enough about biking to put that much money into one. Sounds like you may have gotten a great deal!!

Bike Bandit posted this recently, a guide for motorcycle gloves. http://www.bikebandit.com/community/guides/the-guide-to-motorcycle-gloves?roi=echo3-30389964464-31599481-90b04591a6d145aebcaba30e1f4b4f64&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=promo_BBNews&utm_source=Fri_111315_BB_News&utm_content=glove_buyers_guide

You mean your avatar is not a photo of you!!

BMWs typically do not have a low COG though, the K bikes I'm speaking of. I suspect the new one doesn't either.

Wow! It's been 45 years since I got out of the US Army! I'm an old fart for sure!

Seems to me a fellow who owned a Vmax for a toy, might want to put a set of those pipes on his toy and make some music!

V4s sound so awesome! And that exhaust suits the V4!

The biggest worry I would have based on what I've read on this site is the loud whine that some of these bikes make. Ride it and if it whines real loud, take a pass.

Could you take the rim off and submerge it in water to see where the leak is? I've seen water containers at tire stores where they can submerge just a portion of the tire holding it vertical and slowly rotate the tire to see where the leak is. Aluminum wheels have been known to be porous in spots and cause leaks.

When I removed my idle mix screws, I put a touch of sticky gasket sealer on the end of my screwdriver and touched the screw and pulled it out. Then I used a pick with a slightly curved end to pull the tiny washer, o-ring, and spring out.

I got a similar text recently about an item I had for sale. The text message said he would send a check and when I deposited it in my bank and it cleared in a couple of days, his representative would come pick up the item. I texted back asking what bank was the check written on. The response was a bank that had a branch at my location, so I responded that I would cash it at his bank and his rep could pick it up. Didn't hear back for a couple days then he responded saying the same thing again. I didn't respond again. It was an obvious scam. Sooo many scams on craigslist.

Hey, there is only one good cure for New Bike Fever! Touring bikes usually get touring tires for longevity, not for sticking in the curves. If there are stickier tires available for the RSV, they will make a huge difference if you want to push the limits. My personal opinion on tires is that I want a sticky tire and I don't worry about how long they last. I crashed one bike when I shouldn't have because it had cheap Cheng Shin tires on it that had very little grip.