BlueSky

Glad you are OK!

NGK#DPR7EA-9S spark plugs are just one heat range hotter which may be a good thing depending on how rich the fuel mix is.

The balance afterwards could be better. All depends on how good Yamaha was at selecting and designing the proportioning valve. But IF the R1 caliper does a better job of braking, it would have to change a tad. With the 4 piston Gen I front calipers, does it really do a better job?

I would suspect the changes (Barons 424 Nasty Boys exhaust, Ivans jet kit, and K &N filters) slowed it down.

If the front left braking is improved, it would have to change the balance of the braking when you depress the pedal to some degree. Skydoc told me the same thing.

I would be afraid to use hydraulic oil. Brake fluid is hydraulic oil and I wouldn't use it. My ZN700 manual says use SAE 20. So, I assume engine oil of the proper viscosity is acceptable.

It's called a Voyager kit. I've seen several bikes for sale on craigslist with the extra wheels.

partzilla sells them. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1989/VENTURE+ROYALE+-+XVZ13DW/CYLINDER+HEAD/parts.html

Partzilla has the OE filter for about $15. But, you can probably buy a generic filter from any of the outfits like Motorcycle Superstore, Bike Bandit, or Dennis Kirk.

GoGas in my area sells 93 octane premium without ethanol. I use it in my motorcycles, lawn mower, boat, and all the small engine lawn tools I have because it makes a huge difference in how fast the carburetor gums up when it sits for a while. My Hemi Magnum is tuned for 91 octane with a Superchips tuner and I use premium with or without ethanol in it. My wife's Inifiniti requires premium and she only buys GoGas premium ethanol free. I drove my Magnum 14k miles in 4 1/2 months on my last contract job. During much of that time I used my Superchips tuner to tune it for 87 octane. The gas mileage was only slightly less and I was saving $10 to $15 per week during that job. One thing I did notice was that on the interstate with the cruise set at 80 mph, it only took a slight grade to cause the engine to switch out of MDS mode and it didn't do that with premium and tuned for premium. So, the engine was producing more power on premium when it was tuned for premium. MDS is what Chrysler called the system that switches off 4 cylinders when cruising with the engine under a light load.

Looks Nice!

The 20 means it has the same viscosity as a straight 20 weight at 210 degrees F. And it has the viscosity of a 5 weight at some specified cold temp. So, it is a guess as to what temp it will equal a 10 weight oil in normal bike riding??

As I stated, I used Walmart SAE 5W30 engine oil for fork oil in my 85 Kawasaki ZN700. It has been a few years of mostly running around town and commuting to work since then and it has worked just fine. The fork springs are stock and the dampening is fine for that bike. I can add air to those forks but I haven't. The viscosity will change less with the multi-weight engine oil than with fork oil but then the temp doesn't change as much as it does in an engine. I'll most likely use engine oil in my Venture when I install the new seals and progressive springs. Maybe 10W30 would be best for use with the stiffer progressives.

You may want to try the shotgun method of cleaning the jets.

He was a great boxer and person. I lost a few bucks on his fight with Leon Spinks by giving the other guy 10 to 1 odds! But he was a draft dodger. He first tried to avoid the draft by failing the simple test they give. I took that test and if you score less than 80% you would have to be really really stupid which he wasn't. Of course he intentionally failed it. Then, he converted to Islam and became a "minister" to avoid the draft. Whatever. Lots of guys went to Canada back then to avoid the draft and possibly going to Viet Nam to fight.

If the volume the air occupies is reduced by 1/2, the fork air pressure is doubled. This will have some effect. The bike does rise when air pressure is added. But air does not dampen the action very much. It acts as a cushion.

Deleted The site was running very slowly and posted twice when it finally did.

According to my calculation, 360ml is a hair under 12.7 ounces.

I'm no expert. But, I think as long as oil covers the cylinders that restrict oil flow when the fork tubes move it doesn't matter how much higher the oil is from that standpoint. However, the higher the oil level is, the less air above the oil that compresses. When the forks compress, this smaller amount of air is compressed to a higher pressure quicker making the fork action stiffer. The danger as I see it is putting in too much oil to the point that it locks up the forks when they are compressed. That is why if you measure from the top, you have to compress the forks to get the reading. If you have stock springs, Yamaha tells you exactly how much oil to put in. If you have progressive springs, they occupy much more space and less oil is needed.

Seems like you change your mind a lot about selling that VIC!!

Are all of the known failures with the 880?

My son has used it several times with good results.

Someone posted this. Is it the one that has the roller arm that pumps up the pump, or the newer style that pushes from straight on? I had the first kind go bad, the seals wear out from the sideways pressure. Replaced it with the new style, no problems so far. There isn't really an easy fix, but there's a few guys that have modified theirs. If you have a welder...

One guy's jack fix.

Upon reading the reviews, some reviewers reported replacing the jack with another brand. I surely would like to know the details of the jack replacement.