GoldenRider

I'm not sure. PO put them on. Honestly, I haven't looked too hard to find a replacement.

2008 Royal Star Venture 34,000 Miles Located in Port Allen, LA It's been a great bike but I'm moving in a year and need to thin the herd before then. It runs well, starts right up, everything works as it should. It has a brand new battery. No leaks. Tires are E3s with more than half their life left and it comes with another take off rear E3 (if you want it) that is still about half-way there too. Comes with the original tall windshield, alternative muffler tips, extra fuel pump and a few other parts if you want them. Extras: Hagan rear shock Russell Daylong Driver’s seat (tall) Rear Raising links Bag guards Chrome Radiator Protector Barnett Clutch W/heavy duty springs Rick’s Electric high output stator and regulator Crash bar reinforcement (under foot boards) Bar risers (with properly re-situated support for fairing) Running lights adjustable wind guards at lower fairing Highway pegs Kuryakyn Grips Harley triple tail light and tail guard set up Stebel Horn LED’s installed around bag guards and lower fairings. (One red LED is out in back of bag guard) ----------------------- Clean title $4,500 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/610996627758383

I have a small oil leak coming from the back of my spin on oil filter adapter. The adapter I have looks like a plate with eight holes in a circle and a coupler through it that then has a 30mm(ish) nut put on the coupler to secure the plate. The plate appears to be able to be taken off without removing the coupler from the bike but it's stuck on there. I tried a dead blow hammer and putting allen wrenches in two of the eight or so holes and spinning the whole thing with those and a long screwdriver but didn't have any luck. Is there a good way to remove these plates?

Thanks MiCarl. That's a pretty good point, would hate to find myself leading out for a left turn and suddenly needing to fiddle around finding neutral. I have a couple ideas for keeping the switch in it's hole, if they don't work I'll either buy that one or maybe just splice a manual switch into the line that'll be easier to flip than finding neutral. Thanks again.

I have an 83 Royale with an 86 engine. The other day I was doing the clutch master cylinder and broke the tab that keeps the clutch switch in place. It seems to me that the switch only disengages the cruise (which doesn't work anyway) and allows me to start in gear. Is there any other function for this thing or can I just leave it off and always start it in neutral?

Awesome, Thanks Earl.

I have an '86 (engine, the rest is '83) and I had the clutch slip on me yesterday. I was getting on it going up hill, hit 5500 in 4th and it let loose. I've had slipping issues before. I put in a new diaphragm spring a few months ago and that cleared up some of the slip but apparently not all of it. My Dad (RedRider) has an extra clutch for his 2000. Does anyone know if I can put the friction plates and steels from a 2000 into an '86? Thanks.

Oh I just realized I never mentioned my engine was an 86 since this was originally a just a post about brakes. I just read that the YICS wasn't needed on the 1300s.

Ah, I think my YICS was removed by the PO. Now I just have a crankcase breather filter on top of the twinkie. I plan on running a hose up to the air box instead of using this filter though. I read this was how the twinkie (give or take a YICS) was supposed to be set up. Pretty sure a lot of my oil leaks are coming out of that breather from my over-fillings and subsequent eruptions of oil when pressure builds. Onto the oil leaks though, I've been dealing with some leaks for a while. First it was at the base of the carb boots. I replaced those and rtved where they sit on the engine. No leaks there anymore. Now, as indicated by lots of carb cleaner, it seems like it's the base of the twinkie that has a leak. I've ordered the gaskets already, hopefully that's the last of my leaks. Does anyone know if it would be beneficial for me to try and get a YICS to install on my bike? Pretty sure I saw a couple for sale when I was searching for twinkie gaskets.

Problem solved. It was the caliper. I had two of them, one of which was rebuilt. I didn't imagine they'd both be bad in the same way (or that the rebuilt caliper would be bad at all) but when I took them apart most of the seals had ripped again on the rebuilt caliper (probably ripped when I put the pistons back in on the first rebuild), and the one I bought off e bay wasn't too good inside either. Between the two of them I could salvage enough acceptable seals to make one full caliper. I did all the sanding and compressed air cleaning I needed and then took one half of one caliper and one of the other and put them back together, very conscious of the fragility of the seals this time. Put it, on bled the brakes, and pumped it about 100 times. It didn't stick. Now it's on to the next project: vacuum leaks. Thanks everyone for all the suggestions and help. .

Well, now I'm really stumped. I have taken apart the master 4 times today trying different configurations of old parts and new, cleaned and re-cleaned it. Tried it with proportioning valve on and off. Tried two different calipers. I have a brand new brake line on. Cleaned out all the sludge in the reservoir and blew compressed air through every hole in the system. I checked that the bracket didn't have an extra spacer (i put the caliper on the rotor without being attached to the bike, it still got stuck). I've checked the return on the pedal and left the boot off the master to make sure it returned all the way. Also I made sure the system wasn't too topped off. The only part I haven't replaced is the master cylinder. I went through one big and one small bottle of dot 3. I feel like I've never spent a better $12 than on the speed bleeders I bought last summer. Tomorrow I'm tearing both the calipers apart and building the best caliper I can out of the two. The one I rebuilt already should be fine but I'll see. I might sand down the pads some too. I have an extra set so if it doesn't do anything I won't be too bothered by it. Besides a new master, which I really don't want to buy, I'm not really sure what to do next. I'll keep posting on my progress. Thanks again for all the help. All the ideas are much appreciated.

Thanks Marcarl, I actually did clean that little hole with a high E guitar string in the MC, I think I wrote proportion valve instead of MC on accident in my last post. I had the caliper on my kitchen table for about a week and spent time here and there with brillo pads, mechanics picks, and brake cleaner getting it spotless. I did use new seals and greased both the seals and the pistons with a fine film of the red rubber grease that came with my rebuild kit. I was pretty sick of the whole ordeal at the time and didn't want to leave any dangling 'what ifs' on the caliper if the rebuild didn't solve the problem. One thing I haven't done is clean the reservoir. I didn't think about it until this minute but i took the mc back off and apart and am soaking the empty tube in carb cleaner. I am getting a bunch of dirt out of it. Now I just thoroughly cleaned this sucker twice in the last couple months so all this dirt is a surprise to me. I'm starting to suspect that maybe the reservoir, which has probably never been cleaned in 30 some years, might have some pretty heavy gunk in it which could easily clog one of the many little holes in the system. I'm going to take that off today, clean it and the rest of the system, put everything back together, and I'll post my results. If that doesn't do it I'll be busting back open that caliper, just to make sure.

So it's been a little while since I wrote in here but I have been trying out everyone's suggestions and thanks to everyone for their help. As RedRider wrote the caliper did release when I unscrewed the bango bolt on the caliper, it doesn't release when I take it off the master or when I remove the bleeder, which would seem to point towards the line being the issue. One weird part though, I just put a new stainless line on today and the brakes still stick after I bled them. After I put on the new line I took the L shaped piece off the master and cleaned the two holes in there by pushing a thin wire through it, still no luck. So now I'm trying to figure out what my next step should be. The caliper I think can be ruled out entirely, I have two 83 rear calipers at the moment (if anyone needs one let me know) and both do the same thing exactly, they stop the wheel then release only partially. I did rebuild one caliper with all new rings and both have newly cleaned and greased pistons. I also tried taking off the proportioning valve and connecting the line directly to the mc, it still stuck. All this, to me, points to the mc being the culprit. I did just rebuild the mc basically twice over the last six months but it's the only part I haven't replaced or routed around. I'm pretty stumped here, also the linked front caliper doesn't seem to stick, I can hear the pads hitting the rotors when I spin the tire but it doesn't impede motion much. Is there some drag always on the rear caliper? I can still spin the wheel, it's just pretty hard and gets worse if I really stomp on the brake. I can drive it. I took it out for ten minutes today got it up to highway speed then came home(probably a 4 mile trip). I didn't notice much slowing or difficulty in accelerating (although I've been riding a KLR650 in the meantime so even severely depreciated acceleration would feel like a lot). The rear rotor was hotter than I think it should have been, especially since I used the front brake to stop with almost entirely, but it wasn't hot enough to sizzle if I put spit on my finger and touched it. Does anyone have any ideas what would be a good next step?

Thanks for all the help. I do have linked brakes and, as I just found out, I have a proportioning valve. I tried opening the bleeder, brake stays tight but I'm not totally dismissing it being the brake line, might replace it anyway. I think I can rule out the caliper being the issue. I have two different calipers, one of which I totally rebuilt. Both calipers do the exact same thing. I think Casey might be on to something though, I realized what I thought was a slave cylinder was actually a proportioning valve. I'm not sure what would make that valve have a problem but I took it apart when I did the caliper last week and put it back together, the one seal in there looked fine. It's raining here now but I'll try taking that valve off later and put the banjo straight onto the MC, see if that fixes it. If not I'll go get a new cheap piece of brake line. Will report results. Thanks again.

I have an 83 Venture Royale and can't get my rear caliper to stop sticking. I lately bled the lines using a compressed-air powered vacuum bleeder. The brakes are more solid than they've ever been but the caliper won't stop sticking. I've tried 2 different calipers and rebuilt one of them, polished the pins, greased everything that could need it, everything is like new on the caliper -- or as "like new" as a 33 year old caliper can be. I also just rebuilt the rear master cylinder a few months back, took that back apart and put back together when I did the caliper just to make sure mc wasn't the issue. I took the slave apart too, saw no issues, cleaned it, put it back together. Everything is now cleaned and rebuilt but the problem persists. I haven't changed the brake line but it's a stainless line, at least 3 or 4 years old, maybe older (it was on the bike when I got it). One last thing, the caliper does release some and did before the rebuild too. When the brakes are applied the tire stops and can't be moved but when I take pressure off, the pistons don't retract far enough to keep the pads from rubbing. Although with the brake released I can spin the tire again. Has anyone seen this before or have any suggestions?