Mad Dog

That's interesting... I haven't had the patience to wait, pay attention, and see what happens... I will watch for that, but I still think I have a problem. If I recall, mine will keep dropping

There is a drop off for sure if all you do is hit set. Have you tried to hit set then press and hold the "Res" side down for about three seconds. That takes that initial drop off away for me. Hope that helps you out a little

Wow... lots of info. Thank you so much

Thanks. Interesting... where are the vacuum pump and actuator located? Maybe it's just a hose leak. Thanks again

Hi all, My cruise control engages fine and behaves very well ... almost. It slips. If I lock it in at 65 after 20 seconds it will slip down to 63 ... then after 20 seconds maybe 60 etc. If i hit the accelerate button it will do that, and then slip again. Any suggestions? Thanks all!

Holy Crap ... thats insane.....

Wow, there is some great advice here. The thing is that my brakes were fine before I changed the pads and rebilt the master cylinder. Just a bit of a rubbing squeal so I figured the pads needed changing, and a one time drip from the master cylinder - so I rebuilt that. I didn't have time to look at it last night, and tonight is cut the lawn night... so hopefully I'll have time to try a thing or two like the reverse bleed. Thanks again all!

Yup... this is exactly what I have....

I saw that! The diagram shows that cupped seal on the end of the shaft! Thats crazy... but I did catch that and I put it in the middle where the old one was. Thanks!

It does sound like bad seals, and if anyone would end up with a defective rebuild kit it would most certainly be me....

Ok... I put in new front brake pads and rebuilt the front master cylinder, which had a small drip developing. Now I have no front brake... It was fine before. So.. is there an anti-dive system on a 2006 RSV? I can't see one if it is linked into the brake system, looks like a straight shot with just the tee to split the lines between the rotors. I have had the master cylinder apart a half dozen times and I am convinced that it is assembled correctly, the rubber seals are snug in the bore.. like the old one were. The middle cup washer is facing inboard just like the old one was, and there is no scoring in the bore. Both holes in the bottom of the reservoir are open and clean. Pushing the calipers open by hand pushed fluid back into the reservoir, pumping the lever moves the calipers back against the rotor but then there is no force/pressure to force the pads tight. We have bled and rebled. Bled the normal way, and bled with a vacuum pump. We have done right side first and left side first. I tied the lever back, tapped the lines, let it sit overnight ... for two nights ... nothing changed. We did the chicken bone dance. I had two more guys here last night, one is a mechanic, for three hours ... nothing. So... what to do...? Is it probable that the master cylander rebuild kit is defective? or is there an anti-dive I am missing (I dont see it mentioned in the manual) Any help would be appreciated, we are going on day four of this crap.

looks simple enough but are there any quick tips out there? Just wondering. Thanks!

Ok... just looking for a quick source for the front pads for my '06 RSV. I'll go sintered, but are they really going to set me back $75 or so? Also, where to buy for fast shippipng? Thanks

Skid, click on "community" above, then "Member List" then on "S" and scroll down half the first page. He is there....

OK ... I need to ask... Whats the twinkie?

Good morning, I read here that you make a bracket that will let me mount a horn behind the right side passengers footrest. Do you still make these? What is the price and lead time on them? Do you make one for the left side too? I also PM'd this to you. Sorry for the redundancy.... Thanks! Mike

Great! Thanks to all.

So... I found a drip of brake fluid on my tank, and traced it to the master cylinder plunger thing where the lever pushes. Bought the kit and I'm ready to go. Is there anything I should be aware of before I start? Are there instructions around here - I didn't see any. TIA as always Mike

Very sad and heartbreaking. Rest assured I will be praying for all involved

Thanks! So you made a bracket that went between the footrest mount and the frame? Is that right? That looks like an excellent idea.

Nothing like resurrecting an old thread ... but .... Where and how did you mount this... I like this a lot. Thanks

For anyone else finding this thread, Check out this older on I just found... after posting of course. Apologies. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/watering-hole/90516-question-using-oil-diesel-engines.html?highlight=rotella

Ho all, I went to grab some Rotella T 10-30 yesterday and all they had on the shelf was labeled for diesel engines. Is there a huge difference... and is that ok to use? TIA

Yes, this is what I was thinking, thank you. You feel it is plenty loud tucked back there? I am asking because the Soundbomb isn't chrome... its flat black - so I'd rather tuck it away, and leave the chrome stock one where it is.

I am thinking of installing a Denali Soundbomb inside the left lower fairing, just above and ahead of the left drivers footpad. There are some black plastic covers there that dress up the inside, and I am thinking that if I remove them - especially maybe only the lower one - I might be able to hang the horn off the chrome crash bar that goes through there. That leads to a couple of questions: Has anyone done this? The top inside black plastic piece is held on by an allen head chrome bolt and some black plastic "rivets". How do they come out? Any other comments? Thanks all!