mcgyverit

been a long time since I posted anything, just too many projects going on, but the other day I was walking by the bike and thinking about where I could mount the aftermarket R&R. mostly because it didn't really fit in the original location due to size of the unit and mounting holes didn't line up very well. so with the recent skills that I am gaining with racecar fab work, I sat down and started working on a bracket that I could make to get the unit out in the air better and mount more secure. after putting parts back on the bike like luggage racks, foot pedals, luggage, etc., I think I have a location that should work. http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/Venture/IMG_0368_zpsnw0indko.jpg http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/Venture/IMG_0367_zpsz4chspl7.jpg now to solder all the connections and seal them up.

the r&r is removed from the bike altogether checking the 3 white wires from the stator. checking from white to white I was getting ~45 on the 200v scale at about 2000 rpms. checking from any white wire to ground was consistently 10.4-10.5

Karaboo - I connected the jumper cables to the + and - cables on the bike (they are not connected to a battery in the bike) so I disconnected the r&r. started the bike and got it to idle. check the 3 white wires and each was 10.4 or 10.5. and according to the write up I read on here it needed to be between 9 and 15 and be consistent across the 3 wires, which is what I was getting as far as consistent. in addition to this I tested across the white wires as well at 2K rpm's. 45, 45, 48. don't know if that matters, but they are still consistent.

sorry, thought I posted an update, but guess I forgot to hit the post button.. I checked the donor battery that I jump the bike with and it is good. I was moving around the bike yesterday, looking at how to remove the coils so that I can make sure they are good. previously had the known bad battery that came with the bike in the bike and connected to the + and - cables. this time I removed the battery as I started the process of removing the coil mounts etc. I decided to try and start it again just to confirm everything previously stated. connected my good battery to the + cable and - cable the with no bad battery in place and started the bike with no issues, not running very well though. this time when I removed the jumper cables the bike just dies. my thought is that the stator is bad, not sending enough current to the R&R. I remember reading somewhere the method for checking the output for the stator, just have to refresh myself with that and do that.

I went back through and checked all the connections I could find and put a wrench on them. all were tight. and just so that all the information is out there, I do not have a good battery on the bike, so I jump it off a car battery to get it running. then once running disconnect the jumper cables and I assume that it should be able to run on its own. the new r&r is connected with wire nuts right now as I didn't want to solder them just yet until I determine where/how I was going to mount it on the frame. so before I started removing parts for further testing, I decided to check what I was getting at the battery terminals while running. revved it to 2k and was reading about 11.5v, the higher the revs the lower the volts which seem logical I guess because the motor is needing more power right?

thanks flyinfool, that will give me somewhere to start on a side note, to anyone that has replace the R&R with an aftermarket, what did you do with the brown wire that is no longer required? what purpose did it provide?

so today after work I sat down and was going to try and get this beast running with the new R&R. charged my donor battery, and got down to it. the problem seemed to be that the plugs were getting flooded for some reason. went through them and made sure I was getting fire at all 4, some seemed to have a bigger/brighter spark than others. went up and got 4 new ones just because. began cranking and it finally kicked off. YES! so let it run for a long time and it took a while, but it finally smoothed out but just would not idle for some reason. it died a few times, but would start right back up. slipped the seat on, tied up the R&R, opened the driveway gate. got on it and sat there with some hope that it would go into gear and not die or leap out from under me and cause bigger issues. slowly rode down the driveway and onto the street. went up and down the street in first gear and was pretty satisfied that it wasn't going to fall apart on me even though there was a lot of parts not on the bike. managed to shift into 2nd a couple of times and no issue there either. but then it started running erratic, tach bouncing up and down until about 2K rpms. lights were flickering again similar to the reason I swapped the R&R which was a little disappointing. managed to get it back into the garage and shut it down. just a couple of things that I still have to get resolved. this electrical issue. I did feel the R&R and it got really hot, is that supposed to happen? if not the R&R, is it the stator? the volt meter gauge was reading just at 12 feet position. wasn't really comfortable where the foot pegs/controls are located. anyone move the controls forward? fuel selector knob - what a POS. is there a better knob out there?

I also purchased a new r&r from Ricks. Any suggestions on how to mount it? Anyone have pics? Right now it is just twist connected so that I Could try starting it and I managed to flood the plugs out. So drying them out right now and hopefully later today try it again.

I got the front brakes to work finally by swapping out to an 86 master cylinder.

ordered a new regulator and an 86 front m/c and calipers so time to move forward with some of these set backs and make some more progress

double check everything and got the same numbers. here is how I had the meter hooked up: http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpshfousiwd.jpg black lead on the red wire of the regulator, red lead on the top spade of the white wires

I could have transcribed them wrong, will go through again tonight one more time.

well I think I found the issue - maybe. after doing some reading here on stator / regulator issues, I am thinking that is my problem but I am looking for some confirmation if possible. 5. Test the rectifier diodes, (Unfortunately there is no easy test for the regulator) A. Disconnect all wires from the RR. B. Set your ohm meter to either diode test (preferred) or its scale closest to 2K ohms. C. Connect the black meter lead to the black wire of the RR. D. Test each of the 3 white wires with the red lead of the meter. a. They should each show continuity (low resistance) - I get an infinity reading for both black wires E. Connect the red meter lead to the black wire of the RR. F. Test each of the 3 white leads with the black meter lead. a. They should each show no connection. - I get a reading of 469,474,467 for each of the white leads G. Connect the black meter lead to the red wire of the RR. H. Test each of the 3 white wires with the red lead of the meter. a. They should each show no connection - I get a reading of 470,462,466 for each of the white leads I. Connect the red meter lead to the red wire of the RR. J. Test each of the 3 white leads with the black meter lead. a. They should each show continuity. - I get a reading of infinity K. If all of the tests in C. thru J. pass go to step 6 L. If any of the test in C. thru J. fail replace RR http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/mcgyverit/venture%203%20wire_zps5scvd9o2.jpg 6. Test the stator. (All stator tests are with the stator unplugged from the RR.) A. Set ohm meter to its highest scale. B. Check from each of the 3 stator wires to ground. a. The reading should all be open. - I get an infinity reading for all white leads b. If the reading is a low number then the windings are shorted to ground. Stator is bad. C. Set ohm meter to its lowest scale. D. Check the resistance between each pair of white wires, ie 1-2, 2-3, 3-1. a. The readings should be 0.36 to 0.48 ohms at 68°F (20°C) - all my readings are .56, .54, .54 b. The readings should all be very close to the same. c. Readings outside of the range indicate a bad stator. 1. This test is not always a 100% indicator of a bad stator since many less expensive meters are not sensitive enough to measure this small of a resistance accurately.

I was looking on ebay at some of the mkII sets and notice that the connectors on the end of the II were different. but according to PH above it sounds as though the leads can be switched out. anyone experience at this ?

so if you take a mkII frt m/c and mount it on a mkI bike, does it have the same wiring as the mkI for the light hook-ups?