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... And that, my friend, is a good excuse for a ride!

Been there, done that...twice! Both girls...and yes it's hard to watch them drive away for the first time by themselves to go do something. BUT, when the first kidlet got her license...she didn't have a cell phone...so it was really hard on me. I had a pager at the time...and she did have that number. Second kidlet was much easier...I could simply call her and find out where she was, etc.. You and she will be fine! Hang in there, Dad....

Thanks, Carl. And thank you for the PM conversation. I'll find a spare clutch handle and give it a try and see if I can bend it in a tad to get the throw for me more comfortable. OH...and Nanci has my tank gas cap cover ready! Wowsers! Fast service!

Yep..sure was...back in the early 70's. Spent two years in Turkey as a radio announcer/tv director both at Incirlik and Diyarbikir. Fun time. Found this...may be of help... http://micapeak.com/checklists/mclist.html You can customize the checklist then print it out...at bottom is "make a checklist". @Freebird, didn't know about synthetic no longer causing problems, guess I'm still thinking old school. As for Metzler, well...I've heard about and read responses from them, but the common denominator for chunking from riders seems to be a heavy load, high speed and tire pressure to low. Who really knows since Metzler doesn't seem to respond like a tire manufacturer would with all the issues they have had with chunking. The first indicator of a tire going bad from them is cupping. A few thousand miles later the tire loses pieces. I don't have the answer...but that seems to be the way Metzlers act...

No metal mesh for me in any of my gear. But with everything that I have, it still seems to be to hot as I ride in full jacket, boots, gloves, etc., even in summer Arizona heat. Going to try two things: A wet vest and maybe a pair of those abrasion resistant underwear. They seem to be well liked from reading testimonials.... http://ldcomfort.com/ or https://www.bohn-armor-pants.com/catalog/

Either is fine. I use 20-50 wt dino Yamalube on all 3 of my scoots and they run quieter and shift better. Hard shifting on 2nd gen is either caused by dry shift point linkages (grease them) or water /old fluid in hydraulic system and/or old oil in engine. I can always tell when it's time to change my clutch fluid, gets harder to shift at low speeds... I do run synthetic 80-90 wt in rear end. But that's not an issue either since that is so easy to change...and when you get back from the trip, you should change out the engine oil and rear end oil anyway... I use DOT3 on the 89 VR and DOT4 on my 05 RSV. HOWEVER, I'm not sure that going to a totally different type of engine oil, like synthetic, just before a trip is a good idea. As was mention a few posts up, synthetic could cause some seals to show their wear...and you don't want any issues to show up you weren't expecting. Stay dino if you think it's currently running dino oil. And going from synthetic to dino should not be an issue at all, if what you have in there is synthetic. But since you don't know, I'd stick with dino for the trip. When you get back, then you can change over to synthetic if you wish.... [/color]The only issue any of us have had with Metzlers is they tend to lose chunks of tire once in a while. I know one thing, I ALWAYS run my rear tire at or within 2 pounds of the max load pressure on the tire. I had over 10K on Metzler rear before mine chunked a small chunk. That's pretty good for a really heavy scoot like the RSV. I really think keeping the tire pressure up there is the most important thing we can do for our safety as well as maximize tire wear and mpg's. Last, if your brake pads are good and everything else looks good in brake system, I doubt you will have any brake issues then. A good flushing "out the old and in with the new" is the most important thing anyway with brakes. Keeps most of the other problems at bay... Sounds like you have it all under control!

Rob, most of your cackle upon deceleration is coming from the AIS system and the very lean condition of the carbs as set by the factory for emissions. My PO totally took out the AIS system. But I agree...leave that alone for now. Sounds like you are getting very close. Maybe only one or two carbs have mis-adjusted floats or stuck floats. I don't think you have a "plethora" of fuel problems...just a couple. First, I would look at your carb diaphrams for pin holes, etc..These are easy to get to and a sticky slide or leaky diaphram can cause all sorts of problems. Second, the joints between the carbs and the intake manifolds. Make sure they are snug, not leaking and not to tight. Spray carb cleaner in these areas with engine on and see if any change in rpm. My ideas here are to get the obvious ruled out before you tear into the carbs. Once into the carbs I would go straight to the floats. Two of them might be misadjusted allowing to much fuel or even sticky. I'm out of ideas at the moment. Keep us posted what you find...

As you said...replace all fluids...so... 1: Pull rear end and check splines and drive line for proper grease. 2: Replace rear end oil. 3: Oil change and filter 4: Consider flushing cooling system if not done in past two years. Test thermostadt. 5: Front wheel bearings - grease. 6: Lube all shift points, levers and such. 7: Check steering bearings for looseness and proper torque. 8: Check and replace all brake pads if needed 9: Tires. Might as well get new ones as if you have some miles on current tires, they will be worn by the time you get home with two up and a load. 10: Spark plugs if they are older. 11: Plan spare parts kit and tool kit. 12: Change clutch and brake fluids 13: Snug up all screws and bolts. Replace any stripped. 14: Check brake calipers for proper torque. Use locktite as instructed in various areas. 15: Check front fender bolts for tightness. and so on... Oh...test pack about a gazillion times until you and your honey are both satisfied what goes where...and what stays home... Invest in a case of your favorite beverage to enjoy while working on the scoot...and don't forget to keep grinning about your upcoming retirement! Congrats! david

Another thought is the coolant system has a bypass valve in the very front of the engine down low. Take off the 4 screws holding the lower air dam and there you will find the valve. The hose to that and the valve both can leak when hot. Mine used to leak occasionally when I went from 3K feet altitude here in GV to 1300 feet in Phoenix...the next morning I would have a puddle directly under the valve. I bought the little kit to solve that problem from a member here but never have installed it as the leaks have stopped! Go figure.

Nanci Rogers ( acehighleathers.com) and I were talking the other day. While we were talking about the tank bib and gas cap cover I want for my RSV, we also talked about the similar problem with our hands. Both of us find it painful to pull in the clutch lever. This got me to thinking about our hydraulic systems, specifically the clutch. How much throw do we really need on the clutch to activate it fully? Do we really need the full throw of the handle? Or can we modify the handle and use 60% of the throw for full clutch engagement? I realize we would have to adjust or modify the switch that controls the cruise control, but seriously...if we could bend the lever (or get a different handle) so our hands wouldn't have to reach very far and still be able to get full clutch, that would help both of us tremendously. It would still hurt to pull the clutch in, but the throw would be much less! Thoughts? TIA, david (BTW, enjoyed talking with Nanci...she has such good design ideas and comes up with alternatives for me faster than I could keep up with! Cool!)

LOL!

The only thing else I can think of is the TCI needs to be on the forward edge of the airbox to clear the fake tank cover. The farther back it is, the tighter the clearance is...I'm trying to think outside the box! But I agree...something simple. You'll figure it out....

Yep, sure did. Thanks again!

Hmm...is the air box lid down snug on it's body?

Holy Cow! You are good, Sir @bongobobny ! The top left side of the handle on the radio unit had a small nut on it instead of the proper nut. I never noticed that the nut wasn't the same as the other 3 corners. Guess the PO lost it down inside the left fairing, couldn't find it and simply replaced it with a regular nut. Must have fallen out when I took the fairing off...no wonder I had no clue...I didn't take it off. I owe you are beer. Thanks! P.S. nothing fell off on this mornings test ride...so maybe those 3 leftover screws were also lost in the fairing as well....and fell out. Nah...I can't be that lucky... Gotta tell ya, it really is a rush to nail the throttle on a 1st gen...the century mark comes so fast....

Finally got scoot back together. As usual with me, had 3 screws left over and one strange little part. The top end has a tiny threaded hole. Have no idea where this came from. Ideas??? Took a few cranks to start her up...been sitting a month. Tomorrow I'll go for a test run...see what falls off, I guess!

Well...just finished reading the blog to the end. What a great ride! Been across country on a scoot when I was younger.....but not sure I could take 30 days on the road or the expense of it all now! Regardless, great read! And thank you Dave, for taking the time to share your adventures and pictures. I traveled with you...using Google Earth...and enjoyed every mile!

Hang in there, Randy! Getting your smeller back in shape so you can breathe again is a great feeling! Yes... and get back on the Cpap. They even make units that are small enough to be battery powered all night for camping (if one really wants to pack a unit on a scoot). ResMed S9. I got off the nasty nose stuff too, a few years ago and now on a milder prescription and back on Cpap as well. Now the Admiral got me a FitBit for Daddy's Day at it will read my sleep patterns for me. Interesting technology these days... Congrats on Day Three!

Finally got a break in the weather here in Southern Arizona...only 73 this morning. So you know what I did.....zoom! About 90 miles and breakfast as well... Nickels Diner in Rio Rico. Good diner food! $7.50 3 egg omelet. Any toppings...doesn't matter, same price. Elephant Head Road...on way to Visitor Center...You can see for over 40 miles, looking West or Northwest toward Tucson, from this spot. Whipple Observatory Visitor Center in background. You can take a bus up to top and tour. There is a picnic area here and a nature walk explaining the area through the ages. In the middle of nowhere.... Cows and horses, too..... The paved road ends just past the parking area...dirt/4 wheel drive recommended past this point. All in all...a good morning ride.

That may work very well...or...use the flat/matt coat like a clear coat. Gloss over primer, flat over gloss. A couple of thin coats of flat.[/color]

Don, The auto custom paint guy I got my paint from warned me not to make the surface to smooth as the auto type paint doesn't stick very well to a really smooth surface. Suggested I sand to no more than 800 grit. (I had used 1500 for final). Though if your primer looked smooth, your finish coat should have been as well. Humidity get in the way??

Not quite so warm today. Actually had an afternoon of rain. Wanted to join @KIC in Tucson... Bikers were out in force around Tucson... To raise awareness of motorcycle riders. Tucson has had to many deaths here lately, so the guys and gals are out with signs trying to let the cagers know they have a right to be on the roads too! I decided at last minute not to go as there was still showers around me... And I was concerned about the heat in Tucson. I'm having problems riding in the heat this year.... Didn't want to take any chances. The rallye of Bikers was the lead story on the 6 o'clock news. Didn't see @KIC.... But hopefully he took pictures and will share when he gets a chance. And @Max...I think the tires I'm thinking of are Dunlop's...

@cowpuc probably the only tire that will handle the heat is the Dunlop dual tread. Really hard rubber in center will mitigate the rubber loss from heat...I would think. I don't know the model name but it's sold by HD for their high end cruisers. I'm sure it's available for the rest of us by now. I run Shinkos on my 89 and keep the pressure up near max. I'm very happy with their wear and traction/ride so far. D

http://www.colorrite.com/product/yamaha-0957-very-dark-red-metallic-2-vdrm2-1770.cfm