videoarizona

Holy Moly......that is one for the books.... 250 hp at the rear wheel...without the nitrous.....yikes!

Think it means we are all bored...or boring....well same thing.

I know this isn't as cool as Don's saddlebag covers....BUT... Nanci did a great job on my RSV gas cap cover.....and her shipping was faster than I was to get back home after being called away for 4 days! So Thank you, Nanci! Now I'll save my pennies for the tank bib!

After reading all these great responses, I feel that my name is boring! 40 plus years in film, video and radio.... Living in Arizona..... Tried for "videoAz" as a web site many moons ago, but it was taken.... Hence videoarizona. Remember, It's a dry heat....

Yeppers! You got me! Grins

I'm reading this post. Mama, does this count?

I have to agree, the bags look great! Glad you are back in the saddle!!

I find they help me....

OK, on a second gen, one horn is in left side of fairing, second is on right side next to the passenger foot rest. I bought a mount from one of our member vendors and mounted my Stebel behind the passenger foot rest... Wired in tandem with fairing mounted stock horn through a relay. Works like a charm. On the picture, you can see original stock horn I left on bike(not plugged in) just in front of rear exhaust pipe behind trannie cover, and the Stebel behind the same exhaust pipe, behind the passenger foot rest.

... And that, my friend, is a good excuse for a ride!

Been there, done that...twice! Both girls...and yes it's hard to watch them drive away for the first time by themselves to go do something. BUT, when the first kidlet got her license...she didn't have a cell phone...so it was really hard on me. I had a pager at the time...and she did have that number. Second kidlet was much easier...I could simply call her and find out where she was, etc.. You and she will be fine! Hang in there, Dad....

Thanks, Carl. And thank you for the PM conversation. I'll find a spare clutch handle and give it a try and see if I can bend it in a tad to get the throw for me more comfortable. OH...and Nanci has my tank gas cap cover ready! Wowsers! Fast service!

Yep..sure was...back in the early 70's. Spent two years in Turkey as a radio announcer/tv director both at Incirlik and Diyarbikir. Fun time. Found this...may be of help... http://micapeak.com/checklists/mclist.html You can customize the checklist then print it out...at bottom is "make a checklist". @Freebird, didn't know about synthetic no longer causing problems, guess I'm still thinking old school. As for Metzler, well...I've heard about and read responses from them, but the common denominator for chunking from riders seems to be a heavy load, high speed and tire pressure to low. Who really knows since Metzler doesn't seem to respond like a tire manufacturer would with all the issues they have had with chunking. The first indicator of a tire going bad from them is cupping. A few thousand miles later the tire loses pieces. I don't have the answer...but that seems to be the way Metzlers act...

No metal mesh for me in any of my gear. But with everything that I have, it still seems to be to hot as I ride in full jacket, boots, gloves, etc., even in summer Arizona heat. Going to try two things: A wet vest and maybe a pair of those abrasion resistant underwear. They seem to be well liked from reading testimonials.... http://ldcomfort.com/ or https://www.bohn-armor-pants.com/catalog/

Either is fine. I use 20-50 wt dino Yamalube on all 3 of my scoots and they run quieter and shift better. Hard shifting on 2nd gen is either caused by dry shift point linkages (grease them) or water /old fluid in hydraulic system and/or old oil in engine. I can always tell when it's time to change my clutch fluid, gets harder to shift at low speeds... I do run synthetic 80-90 wt in rear end. But that's not an issue either since that is so easy to change...and when you get back from the trip, you should change out the engine oil and rear end oil anyway... I use DOT3 on the 89 VR and DOT4 on my 05 RSV. HOWEVER, I'm not sure that going to a totally different type of engine oil, like synthetic, just before a trip is a good idea. As was mention a few posts up, synthetic could cause some seals to show their wear...and you don't want any issues to show up you weren't expecting. Stay dino if you think it's currently running dino oil. And going from synthetic to dino should not be an issue at all, if what you have in there is synthetic. But since you don't know, I'd stick with dino for the trip. When you get back, then you can change over to synthetic if you wish.... [/color]The only issue any of us have had with Metzlers is they tend to lose chunks of tire once in a while. I know one thing, I ALWAYS run my rear tire at or within 2 pounds of the max load pressure on the tire. I had over 10K on Metzler rear before mine chunked a small chunk. That's pretty good for a really heavy scoot like the RSV. I really think keeping the tire pressure up there is the most important thing we can do for our safety as well as maximize tire wear and mpg's. Last, if your brake pads are good and everything else looks good in brake system, I doubt you will have any brake issues then. A good flushing "out the old and in with the new" is the most important thing anyway with brakes. Keeps most of the other problems at bay... Sounds like you have it all under control!

Rob, most of your cackle upon deceleration is coming from the AIS system and the very lean condition of the carbs as set by the factory for emissions. My PO totally took out the AIS system. But I agree...leave that alone for now. Sounds like you are getting very close. Maybe only one or two carbs have mis-adjusted floats or stuck floats. I don't think you have a "plethora" of fuel problems...just a couple. First, I would look at your carb diaphrams for pin holes, etc..These are easy to get to and a sticky slide or leaky diaphram can cause all sorts of problems. Second, the joints between the carbs and the intake manifolds. Make sure they are snug, not leaking and not to tight. Spray carb cleaner in these areas with engine on and see if any change in rpm. My ideas here are to get the obvious ruled out before you tear into the carbs. Once into the carbs I would go straight to the floats. Two of them might be misadjusted allowing to much fuel or even sticky. I'm out of ideas at the moment. Keep us posted what you find...

As you said...replace all fluids...so... 1: Pull rear end and check splines and drive line for proper grease. 2: Replace rear end oil. 3: Oil change and filter 4: Consider flushing cooling system if not done in past two years. Test thermostadt. 5: Front wheel bearings - grease. 6: Lube all shift points, levers and such. 7: Check steering bearings for looseness and proper torque. 8: Check and replace all brake pads if needed 9: Tires. Might as well get new ones as if you have some miles on current tires, they will be worn by the time you get home with two up and a load. 10: Spark plugs if they are older. 11: Plan spare parts kit and tool kit. 12: Change clutch and brake fluids 13: Snug up all screws and bolts. Replace any stripped. 14: Check brake calipers for proper torque. Use locktite as instructed in various areas. 15: Check front fender bolts for tightness. and so on... Oh...test pack about a gazillion times until you and your honey are both satisfied what goes where...and what stays home... Invest in a case of your favorite beverage to enjoy while working on the scoot...and don't forget to keep grinning about your upcoming retirement! Congrats! david

Another thought is the coolant system has a bypass valve in the very front of the engine down low. Take off the 4 screws holding the lower air dam and there you will find the valve. The hose to that and the valve both can leak when hot. Mine used to leak occasionally when I went from 3K feet altitude here in GV to 1300 feet in Phoenix...the next morning I would have a puddle directly under the valve. I bought the little kit to solve that problem from a member here but never have installed it as the leaks have stopped! Go figure.

Nanci Rogers ( acehighleathers.com) and I were talking the other day. While we were talking about the tank bib and gas cap cover I want for my RSV, we also talked about the similar problem with our hands. Both of us find it painful to pull in the clutch lever. This got me to thinking about our hydraulic systems, specifically the clutch. How much throw do we really need on the clutch to activate it fully? Do we really need the full throw of the handle? Or can we modify the handle and use 60% of the throw for full clutch engagement? I realize we would have to adjust or modify the switch that controls the cruise control, but seriously...if we could bend the lever (or get a different handle) so our hands wouldn't have to reach very far and still be able to get full clutch, that would help both of us tremendously. It would still hurt to pull the clutch in, but the throw would be much less! Thoughts? TIA, david (BTW, enjoyed talking with Nanci...she has such good design ideas and comes up with alternatives for me faster than I could keep up with! Cool!)

LOL!

The only thing else I can think of is the TCI needs to be on the forward edge of the airbox to clear the fake tank cover. The farther back it is, the tighter the clearance is...I'm trying to think outside the box! But I agree...something simple. You'll figure it out....

Yep, sure did. Thanks again!

Hmm...is the air box lid down snug on it's body?