videoarizona

2nd Gen rotors are pretty easy to warp. My right front was warped upon tire replacement. Shop swore they didnt lay tire down or lean it on something. Nonetheless, no pulsing in brakes before...and pulsing afterwards. Pinball used rotor solved my problem...

So...Bossman @Freebird, What do you have inside your fairing? Insulation? Inquiring minds would like to know...

Regarding lens color...all I know is leds work best when lens is same color as led...

I use mine for run/stop lights.

Sure looks like a copy of a VStar 650 to me...except for the tilt of the vTwin. Interesting, for sure..

Joe, I would drop the front end first. Drop about an inch and it will lower the front enough to feel more stable for you. Then look into bars with a tad more pull back. There are a ton of posts about different bars for the 2nd Gen's. Do a search. Enjoy your new RSV! P.S. Pictures are very important here!

Chief, Due to poor mpg's? IS the mileage that much less or is the ride that much better you don't want to get off!?![/color]

Very happy with my J&M headsets. Have them on both Ventures. Both 5 pin DIN. Helmet goes back and forth with no issues. I think the HD's use the 7 pin version and do believe Bongo is right...the Honda's are 5 pin as well. I like being able to take my MP3's with me on both bikes as well. So yep...either 1st gen or 2nd gen...good compatibility across the board.

I lowered my front as well...and it made a positive difference for my being more comfortable at slow speeds especially parking lots and gas stations. Cruise at 75 or 80 all day long with bursts above the century mark and high speed stability is still excellent. I'm going to lower the front a tad more since I was able to move the fairing up a little and give more room for the bars. Do this when I take my forks apart. Then I'll get a 130 tire and I should be nimble as can be. VMax the rear end for better acceleration in all gears and I'll be done. DONE, I say! (hah)

The corrosion on the cylinder wall looks to me like typical Arizona hard water scale. Looks good, James! david

Nanci, @Luvdaleather Any word on how the auto clutch works? And @cowpuc, maybe you should re-post your question in another part of the forum. We gotta have someone who knows hydraulics and pneumatics... david

Ah you guys and gals in the Midwest..... Can't we have a Meet & Greet somewhere nearer? Like maybe within 500 miles of me? Grins. Yea, yea...don't say it. I know if I start now and dodge all the rain and such I can make it...sigh. And I do love good Mexican Home Cooking! Have a great day and thank your wife and mom-in-law for me! Great idea... david

Geesh. my lady reminded me that I went through the Epley exercise as well.....took three days she said before I could walk around without holding on to the wall. How could I forget that!

Well, guess no one has ever worked on 2nd Gen forks. Are the forks that good? IF so, then guess I'm going to be the guinea piglet to try this. @bongobobny, The first thing I will do is get the forks down to where I can at least try and clean them...see if that is the problem. Next week....on the schedule.

Well said, @aharbi. I use 1280x720P 30 fps for all internet stuff. I even shoot in that for most of my HD work. I use 3K-5K bitrate, H264 mp4 for my edited output for internet use. I use much higher bit rates but same codec for my pro uses. H264 (MP4) is the best codec for shooting, editing and distribution. It's efficient, streams easily and looks great even when highly compressed. Far better than MOV, AVI, et al. Did you know mp4 is also used for your Dish/Direct Tv signal? And that is highly compressed. Europe has been using it for years for their HD TV distribution. Why use 720P? Because it's actually better than 1080i for fast moving scenes. Shooting 1080P takes far more memory(disc, thumb drive, SD card, etc.) to hold the footage, takes more computer horsepower to process and run, takes a better video card, takes more effort to edit. So why bother? Is shooting 1080P better than 720P? Yep....But...The visual differences are so small no one will ever know. I can get more footage on each SD card with 720P vs 1080P. Plus, shooting progressive mode (P) vs interlace mode (i) means every frame is a complete picture... where in interlace mode, it takes two fields to make one frame...any movement in that 1/60th of a second is easily seen as a blur in the movement. Some say 720P is not true HD. Well, that's great marketing, but its a lie. (like politicians!) You see, the powers to be with the FCC/NAB/ATSC and other organizations that rule TV land, say 1080 and 720 are both TRUE HD. If you still doubt this, look at the specs on some of the TV channels for your area. Guess what, some are broadcasting 720P! So there ya go. Try and shoot 720P in your GoPro....30 frames per second is good, but 60 FPS is better for fast motion...but takes more space on the card. Your call here. If you ahve a powerful computer and lots of space for video files, shoot 1080P 60FPS. Try it out and see if you can see the difference. Thanks for reading...and hope this helps. david

Great choice, Kevin! Suggest the riders safety course as well. Builds confidence as well as teaches safety and riding techniques... Loved my 650 classic. Safe riding!

https://vimeo.com/upgrade?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=GOOGLE&utm_content=US_Search_Brand_Alone_Alpha_EN*Vimeo+-+Exact&utm_term=vimeo&utm_campaign=1923&gclid=CNrH7N_5ns4CFRKVfgoddksPZQ&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CP3__9_5ns4CFYp8YgodA-8APA or http://tinyurl.com/zt7ez9k i used vimeo for my pro videos. I still keep the account..don't know why...

I like your additional language... ok if I borrow the concept? I want to sell the 950 and last time on CL I got lots of crap calls...

Whoa! That is one beautiful 90 VR!

My guess is the remote unit on the handlebars has/had moisture in it. You can take off the left mirror and remove the unit enough to get access to the 4 screws. Gently take the unit apart. Get a hair dryer and on low heat, dry out the insides. IF it is dry and no moisture is seen, then check the circuit boards for any display of corrosion. I haven't been inside one of these as mine works fine until it gets some really cold wind on it then the buttons stop working. On my list for this coming winter. It's not rocket science. (although at times the scoot seems to think otherwise). If the problem isn't corrosion, then some component part isn't operating properly due to water shorting or bad contacts. Since no one has come up with a schematic for the unit (that I have found), or parts diagram, we really don't know what magic goes on inside there. Regardless, if your problem isn't a loose/corroded or wet connector somewhere inside the fairing or in the intercom run to the back seat... or a pinched wire in the harness going from handlebar to fairing...then the problem is probably inside the control unit on the bars. As far as putting it back together, I would use some vaseline or something around the two halves...just enough to form a good seal. Or whatever else the guys and gals come up with here that's better. You might go to the dealer and ask about it...see if they know. Some mechanics have great memories for odd issues with scoots they love to work on... I'm interested in this since I have a cold weather problem with mine.

Had that too. It went away on it's own.....let's hope your does as well....[/color]

I'm a novice too, but considering Azzi's mileage...I think that looks pretty darn good!

Mine came from the BP meds I was taking, so doc switched me over to another med and told me to take it at night so I'm sleeping when the dizzies hit. I stopped taking the cholesterol med as it added to the problem and didn't help me. "Come on Doc, my family is French/Italian. We all have high cholesterol! None have died from heart disease." Mediterranean diet...yea right. She relented and let me drop the med. Suggest you have your blood sugar levels checked and your BP checked...as well as any recent changes in meds.