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videoarizona

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Everything posted by videoarizona

  1. Similar to this... https://www.amazon.com/Anauto-Universal-Motorcycle-Rectangle-Reflector/dp/B078MWTSB1/ref=asc_df_B078MWTSB1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507584275636&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15848677558438273970&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029980&hvtargid=pla-935117818219&psc=1
  2. You can buy led panels that replace the side reflectors. Just take off the reflectors and bolt on the lights. The led panels I found fit almost perfectly inside the reflector mount. Just slight trimming. I wired mine to the running lights and turn signals. Get the LEDs that offer two different led sets per light....IE three wires. Ground. Running and turn. This way they also blink with turn signals. I also added a white led strip under the cowl wired to the running lights. Finally, added a set of lights to the rear reflector in the center and one bulb to the reflector on each side in rear underneath the hard bags. Pics show result.... The reflector on the trunk is very bright with headlights on it so I left that alone.
  3. Agree with above...with one caveat: Pay attention to the ride quality. Running under inflated may have damaged a belt or two. If the vibration you feel gets worse, I'd replaced the tire. Also inspect the tire near the tread edge for bulges that may appear. That's where the issue will appear.... And maybe why you are feeling the vibration only on turns. Other than above, Paul, the tires should be ok. They look good! D
  4. Jeff, Did you look in the tech section for the manual? The procedure is there.... David
  5. I would try them out. Yokohama motorcycle tires are now made in Korea.... Shinko bought the technology. Those of us who use Shinko tires really like them! That's enough for me to look these guys up and see what they have!
  6. I'm going to go with Saddlebums method but change one thing. ABS is easy to melt. Get a small soldiering pencil. Buy the little triangle flat tip. Underneath, melt the edges of each crack together by running the iron along the crack. The idea here is to melt the plastic along the crack and seal the crack together. Then you can buy ABS plastic in small sheets at various thicknesses. The sheets can be easily cut with coping saw or jig saw. Use pieces for reinforcement and using ABS glue, glue the flat pieces in place. This or the Plastex repair mentioned above should do the trick. You can then buy a small paint sprayer to repaint from Harbor Freight and finish the job. Seriously, it's easy and actually fun to get creative to do repairs like this on these bikes.
  7. I had the same problem. Found two contacts on the ignition switch that were not connecting. One wire was broken. I have the ignition bypass as well.... The link above takes you to the two wires that were not connecting together in the ignition switch. The same two wires mentioned earlier blue/yellow, blue/black. In the ignition switch run position, those two wires are shorted/connected together.... This enables the coils to fire. You can easily check this by disconnecting the connectors that come from the ignition switch and use a meter looking for continuity between wire sets using the schemstics for guidance.
  8. Let's hope this link works. Should take your to the beginning of the thread I posted about my experiences. How this helps.... David https://www.venturerider.org/forum/topic/69641-engine-cranks-no-ignition-no-error-codes/?do=findComment&comment=798593
  9. Ignition switch.
  10. I lowered my forks about 1 inch on the triple tree. Made a big difference in low speed handling. I'm running stock front tire. I like the added width for stability at 75mph on windy days. Make sure you turn the Schrader valve pointing out to make it easier to get to... to air the shocks. When she starts getting hard to find neutral, time to change oil. I've hit the rear brake to hard and locked up. Scary. Went to organic pads. R1 brakes in front are very good change! Or any of the other Yamaha big bike front brakes that fit. The only think I can add, is don't short shift this motor. It's a high revving V4. You will get the best performance and fuel mileage by staying in upper rpms. I use 4th most of the time on State roads between 40 and 65mph. In high winds, I'll shift down to 4th and cruise all day at 65/70. Won't hurt a thing. Don't need a tach, just listen to the motor. I've hit the limiter so many times, we are friends at this point! Seriously, it's a really nice motor...for many reasons. To me, the only downside is the crap gas with the carbs. I counter that with Seafoam or Techron once in a while. Especially if not riding for a month or so. Get a hand pump for shocks. I run 5lbs in front and 25 in rear. Oh....browse through the tech sections. Lots of good stuffing hiding out there! Enjoy the scoot!!!
  11. To be honest, I wouldn't bother putting an AGM on a Tender. Not needed. Just put it on the Tender about once every couple of months for a few hours. My Tender does a great job on the boat battery in about 4 hours every 2 months. Works just fine. BUT, you do have to remember to disconnect the Tender! I set a kitchen timer. For me, it's an easy choice since the AGM's are such good batteries.
  12. I too went for a ride on Saturday. But only because it's been unseasonably cool for Southern Arizona this time of year! No complaints, jut not used to it.The RSV was a happy scooter! I keep running the 89. Still waiting on washers from Mom Yamaha for the front forks. When they come in, guess it's time for me to learn how to replace the seals! Been waiting quite a while...but now I'm getting concerned. It's going to be our camping/riding/sailing season soon. Weather normally cools down the middle of October, like clockwork. Would prefer to be doing those things than working on the scoot. Such is life...
  13. Yep. Blowby from the crankcase will deposit oil in air filter collection assembly sitting under that tank. It will collect there and drip down the left side as the bike sits that way...leaning left. Most of the oil there is from to much oil in the crankcase. Oil in that collector area (or whatever it's called) is normal. The crankcase needs to breathe....
  14. Someone on this site made brackets. There also was a diagram with info on building your own. I thought I just saw a post recently???? Memory...first thing to go as we age....LOL!
  15. Hi Larry, The site says you can't receive PM's.....I tried sending one to you. Here's my message. "Hi Larry, I bought the adapter from you...so the legs should fit fine. Just need to know cost and instructions on how to attach the legs.... Thanks! david"
  16. Ooops... Sorry, Larry. Guess I got the terminology wrong. What I meant was can I retrofit the legs you make for the lift adapter? I didn't buy them initially. Or is that adapter built differently than the adapter I bought?
  17. I'm impressed! Quite the undertaking and you've done everything right! I'm enjoying this...thank you for sharing! david
  18. Yep. Have a pair on my RSV.. Yes, the do sound good. And yes, you will need to get the clamps.
  19. Larry, I'm wondering if the adapter I bought from you can be adapted to take the stand? Guess I should have ordered the stand too....but $$ was tight at the time.
  20. Tires, fluids, plugs and some Seafoam in gas. Regular gas is fine. Fuel filter(it's in a bad place... Move to right behind tank, under seat.) Fuel pump points. Or another pump. The points go bad with time and mileage. If yours look good then 👌. Pack for roadside repairs... Your know the stuff. Buy a hand air pump unless you already have one for your HD. Set air in shocks to about 5lbs up front and 25 in rear. Then ride it. Find the compromise between a nice ride with no shock bottoming out in rear. Yes, she's a heavy scoot.... But low end handling is good, high speed stability is solid.... You will just need to sort her out. On the road, I run 38lbs in front, 40 in rear. That seemed the best for my load.... BUT, remember you aren't on the Dyna...no short shifting...let her rev. As you become used to the bike, let her rev more and enjoy. Under 70, stay in 4th gear.... Won't hurt a thing. Mpgs should be around 36 to 38. Much less indicates running to low rpm(bogging down), carbs out of sync or vacuum leak, Dirty carbs. Run more Seafoam! Regarding cross country.... I've made a couple of serious cross country rides and have to say, the RSV was by far the most comfortable. Getting off on the 2 lanes and cruising at 65 was a pleasure. Wishing you a great ride!
  21. Thanks for sharing! I saw a couple of faces I met 4 years ago...Geesh...time does fly...
  22. Good to see you again!
  23. Did you check the squelch on the cb? If the cb is on, the squelch setting will mute the radio if a strong cb signal comes through. Mentioning cause I learned this myself years back. Had me going for a while. But since you've had the scoot for years, I doubt that ...but wanted to mention just in case! 😁
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