videoarizona

Tom, I own both generations of the Ventures. Each one has its own unique personality. My 89 1st gen Venture Royale is a solid sport touring bike. Handles and goes like a sport bike but wonderfully comfortable for long distance touring. You sit upright in this top heavy scoot. It goes so fast, so quickly... Scares the pudding out of me at times! My 05 Royal Star Venture is made to do one thing... Ride forever cruising countries without breathing hard. She is slower than her 1st gen cousin due to being heavier and having a set of overdrive gears in 4th and 5th. Her seating position is more like a cruiser. Her high speed handling is like a rock... Steady. Her low speed handling is ponderous. But as Bongo said... I lowered the front end and it made a nice difference!! I love both bikes..... And both are about as maintenance free as you can get on a scoot. They run forever. So hopefully you can get down to the MD and look them both over. You will find the RSV to be more comfortable than the Wing... And fast enough to keep you smiling as long as you remember these are not V Twins. These v4's love to rev!! Good luck in your search... david

You can drop the petcock and see if the filters over the screens are clogged. Either that or you have junk or water in the fuel and it's being picked up as the tank gets low...

And more: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?494-Splitting-the-Fairing

Nothing here...on Chrome.

One thing else I did was to tilt the entire fairing forward. On the two nuts that secure the fairing to the frame (the ones you have to reach way back under the headlight), I placed a regular washer and a trim washer on bolt then put inner fairing back on bolt and tightened nuts. This pushed the fairing forward just a tad and still is giving it support. I then relocated the two rubber dampers back between the bars and the inner fairing to hold fairing tight. used a touch of clear glue to ensure those black rubber dampers stay on fairing! No flexing and a touch more room. Did not have to relocate cables or wiring, but brake and clutch lines are snug. No issues with throttle either. Picture I attached up a few posts shows the dampers and added space with risers installed using standard bars.

In my opinion, the write up suggests the 777's are for lighter weight "cruisers". Only installed the 230's on my 1st gen. I would recommend them as they ride soft, corner great, handle rain very well. I run them at 38-40lbs front, 40-42 pounds rear... Depending on 1 or 2 up. When time comes, I'll throw them on RSV as well.

Gary, snake weave could very well indicate a problem in the rear....swing arm bushings, etc.

Here is more info... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?18414-Need-help-Lowering-the-Front-end

Thanks, Don. Not the link. I was going for the procedure in the other library....

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?122351-Front-Fork-Oil-Leak

Don't know about detailed from me....But older posts combined have all the info to lower the front end. I'll see if I can find them, but a search using various front end terms like front forks, or, lower front end should do the trick. I just did mine again.. Lowered more, and it took less than 40 minutes seconds time around. Basically: 1: raise bike on lift. Use a brace on frame so engine parts not hurt. 2: take off front wheel, or not. You can push front end down both forks together or separately. If separate, then take off front fender. 2.5: remove top screws, one leftside, one right on back side of inner fairing. That allows removal of chrome plastic windshield trim and exposes windshield screws. 3: remove outer fairing,taking off three screws each side. Suggest you lay screws out in order so you know which ones go where. Last remove screw on bottom headlight trim. Hold fairing. 4: remove bars and hang up out of way. Take handlebar wires out of plastic hose on bars. 5: remove two bolts on side of headlight & two nuts behind headlight mount. 6: remove gas tank plastic cover and gas tank. Gets it out of way. Maybe do this one before #4 . 7: remove two bolts in front of triple tree that holds inner fairing to triple tree. 7.5 pull inner fairing forward about 5 inches and stuff a towel in that to hold it. Or I tied handlebars up and forward... Pulling inner fairing out of way. 8: remove stem nut from triple tree. 9: loosen 4 bolts, two on each side of triple tree. Side triple tree up and off. 10: lift off top fork covers. Mark forks tube at bottom of exposed area so you have a reference. 11: loosen two bolts on each side of lower triple tree..careful here... Forks may move! 12: raise field tubes up in lower triple tree about one inch. Maybe sure both are even. Put back together. Sounds like a lot of work but really isn't. Some steps can be omitted.... But this is easiest way for first time. I'll try and find links that site these steps, but fyi, I found them with pictures on this forum using search tool.

Will HD risers work? Don't know. Issues can be: 1. Bolt hole spacing 2. Cable length and 3. Inner fairing clearance. The Barons I have satisfy all three above. Any risers that do same should work fine I would think...

What more can be said? Really glad to hear you went in for a tune up and came out with some new, after market parts!! Take it easy, my friend, and heal up. Prayers Up! david

First, thank you for sharing, Lynn. Really good stuff! And you have me thinking: Wondering if our Boss @Freebird would open up a new folder on our forum for people to put their trips in. Kind of like a database with rt numbers, places to stay and eat, etc.. Maybe something beyond our favorite destinations folder??? regardless, thanks Lynn! david

No. Never knew they existed. Interesting that they make it for the 83-85 years and the 89. Thought they were different.... I like the added benefits to this unit... david

Looks like the Venture Yamaha should have made after the Gen 2. Add a Tourpak, cassette deck, etc..

Yeppers... Sounds like me on a good day😁

Yeppers... Sounds like me on a good day😁

http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59 Cheaper, smaller, very easy to program, plug and play. Had one for the years now on VStar, just moved it to RSV. Took longer to take seat off then to plug it in. Programmed mine for a -7.1. Speedo now dead accurate. Sorry...hijacking thread.

Look into the controller maybe?

((Next issue. I topped off the rear brake reservoir as I had been getting intermittent warning lights for it and now the front brakes are dragging just a little. Just enough to make noise but I can't feel the drag.)) To full. As the oil heats, the extra pressure pushes on the brakes.....dragging is the result. Needs room for expansion. Get an old, clean rag and twist it on one corner. Stick that into the rear reservoir. Wick some of the oil out. Or use a turkey baster to take some out. You can use a strip of paper inserted into the hole to guess how much you are leaving in. I don't remember how far below the fill hole the level should be, but had to do this with mine last year. Took quite a bit out...been fine every since. U can search the older posts, somewhere is the info... On our oldie Ventures, two things we shouldn't ever fill completely: 1: Engine oil 2: Rear master brake reservoir. The manuals seem to be wrong on both counts.

Whew, glad you are OK! I too can't imagine what the arm would look like if you weren't wearing the jacket. Kudos to you for the helmet as well! Wishing you fast healing and fun wrenching fixing the scoot! david P.S. I'm rethinking the idea of armor underware......wonder if I can handle the Arizona heat with it on...

Ride lots.....hopefully!

Spent 1/2 day trying to put braces on the engine guards of the RSV. Right will be easy but the left has me stumped. Looks like I'm going to have to take off the foot rest and gestimate the hole location. The brace doesn't fit well anywhere in the tiny area I could put a bolt head on the foot rest mount. Hmmm...thinking now my left side engine guard may be bent. Sure doesn't look it but....there isn't anywhere to clamp on the guard where the brace will connect. Back to drawing boards...

Richard, I've been quietly following the thread and enjoyed your progress. Appreciate your sharing. Regarding plastics. Yep, bits and pieces fail easily on these beasties now, because it's old and brittle. However, it's easily fixed. First, check both sides for what's broken and what isn't. You can use one side for a guesstimate on a broken piece if it's intact on the other side. I repaired my plastic with simple epoxy and fiberglass cloth. I layered it inside the plastic pieces to get everything together. I used 3 or 4 layers of 6 ounce cloth, then sanded it to look better once it had hardened. On the outside, you can add some epoxy to the cracks and holes left over then sand that down to the level of the rest of the plastic. We, in the boating world, call this "fairing". What you are doing is building up the plastic then "fairing" it down to the level of the rest. ABS plastic is easy to obtain and you can easily add pieces of ABS to the fairings you have where needed by simply using a soldering pencil to melt the two together in a type of tack weld (so to speak), then fiberglass the inside to make it strong. You can then melt some ABS into the groove on the outside or fair it with epoxy and thickener (what I did) There are two different types of plastic repairs kits out there, but I've found them to be harder to use then good old fiberglass and epoxy. There are a number of older threads I used to learn how to put my 89 back together and get it looking decent. Here is my thread on it....FWIW, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?119659-Doing-some-repairs-to-89&highlight=plastic+repairs Other threads will be down at bottom of each page.....and there are even pictures floating around of how the plastic tabs and holes are supposed to look! Hope this helps. If you are a fiberglass guru...ah well..then you can chime in and teach me more! I'm always all ears... david