videoarizona

James, I have the Slime compressor in left side with the tire plug kit. Right side has tool kit with additional stuff like a tiny battery back up, 3/8ths socket set for metric and hex, tire gauge, spare headlight bulb, travel mirror with extension to check oil by myself, rags, flashlight etc.. Both sides carry a water bottle or two. Jacket liner and a half bike cover in right. Rest of space on both sides would be for extra clothes (like work clothes for crawling under bike) ... mostly left side. The bike cover is nice to keep the scoot covered while at hotel. Tour pack has the light stuff, aspirin, cassettes (I mix my own), gum, flashlight, member list for emergencies that are near my flight path, sun block, small individual pack of Tide clothes detergent, tube of hand cleaner, lightweight orange safety vest, scarf for keeping neck warm on those mountain passes, Froggs Togs. My main clothes I carry on the pinion seat held down with a medium size bungie netting (about $8) that has hooks for attaching netting to passenger bars. Just make sure your carry bag is water resistant at least. I use a soft sided airline carry on travel bag. Like a gym bag but with pockets. That's my main clothes bag for traveling on planes as well as scoots. Everything is in there I need. At hotel, I take this bag in with me. Everything else stays locked up on bike. I can pack for 5 days using this system. This is what my 2nd gen looks like while on the road. In reality, the only emergency you might run in to is a flat tire. These scoots are pretty reliable. The tire plug kit and slime compressor kit takes you to the nearest city for a new tire. The stator is the only other issue I dread on the road. Not much to do about that but be flexible enough to handle it if it pops up. As far as traveling...depending upon your itinerary, Utah, Nevada and Arizona can be toasty. If you start each day early, you can cover more ground before the heat gets to much. Seriously. There is a reason work crews start at 5am....it's cool enough to begin the day and then gradually warms up. The hottest part of the day is 4 to 5 pm. You want to be in the pool by 3pm if you can. By gradually warming up, your body adapts to the heat better...allowing you to ride into hotter weather than if you started out at 8am and ran until 5pm. I would not recommend you spend lunch in an airconditioned environment too long as that will make it harder on the old bod when you come back out. Also...as much as I like to fuel up right after I stop...that's not good for bikes. Gas expands. So plan on fueling after lunch break. If you want to carry an extra gallon of gas, it can get strapped on top of the pinion clothes bag. Get a good plastic can, wrap it in a white garbage bag and go. No different up there than having a passenger. Actually won't be any higher than your shoulder. The cooling vest is a good idea, but I've heard your clothes get wet. Guess that's fine too! Highway pegs are a must on a 1st gen. Legs are to protected behind the fairing. Make sure your "heater" is working as well...that's what I call those little vanes covering the rear cylinder. They are needed as they keep a lot of heat off your boots when closed. You can ride all day with them closed, just remember to open them when you stop so they help cool the motor as well as don't melt! Last, don't over plan it. Ask me how I know! My biggest mistake when I started traveling with the sailboat going across country. Didn't need 3/4 of what I had. And if I needed something, I found out I didn't have that on my list so WalMart became my friend! This is a day trip times X number of days! And... don't make any serious changes to the bike just before you go. Get that done ahead of time. So you can ride around home for a while just in case there is an issue with the new tires, brakes, etc.. Wish I could make the trip with you...but wrong direction for me!! If you need help with route, holler. We can talk next time we meet for lunch shortly ? david

Working on the 89...changed out the rear caliper for an R unit. Bled brakes and was putting on the bolt that is on the MC reservoir. Plop...it jumped out of my hands and disappeared. Again. This is the second time the darn thing has run away. I never found the 1st one and got a spare from a member here. I was determined not to let this 2nd one go...so I swept the garage clean (not on my list of things to do that day either, @Freebird), checked under anything and everything around and no dice. My buddy helping had a flashlight and was looking as well. Took out the little usb camera ($10 from china-shipping included) and looked in every nook and cranny on the scoot. Finally gave up..thinking the bolt had managed to find a safe haven under the motor block sitting on the exhaust collector (where there must be a treasure trove of stuff from all these years). Went to store and found a bolt close enough to work with washers added and was reaching in to thread the bolt when I heard a "clink" as a bolt hit the floor. My buddy turned around and just looked at me. What could I do? I shrugged, picked up that rascal and "CAREFULLY" threaded him on. No idea where it was hiding....but it obviously was right out in plain sight and we both missed it. Fun stuff....

LOL! Uh yea.....Shinko 777HD. Great handling, very good wear and great price. Let the discussion begin! (Glad the axle came out easily)

[/color]I see conflicting information in the posts above. Unless, of course, my lack of coffee this morning is causing a brain fade. Here's my conflicting thinking: It is my understanding that due to the low location of the tank on the 1st gens, leaving the petcock on will not cause any issues unless the fuel line going to the pump goes bad. That's below the level of the tank at all times. The pump is too, but it "shouldn't" allow fuel to flow without it running. You can run a first gen without the pump, but the fuel level must be high enough for gravity to provide the pressure to work. And you must run a fuel line from the tank to the carbs. cowpuc had a nice post on this forum somewhere. Other than that, the carbs are higher than the fuel level in the tank unless the tank is topped. So very little, if any, fuel can get to the carbs if the carbs leak. (unless the leak occurs while you are running). Gravity is your friend here. The 2nd gens have the tank on top...so shutting off the fuel is a mandatory thing, unless you are willing to take a chance of having something go wrong in the fuel system, leaving gravity no longer your friend and fuel all over the place. So to answer your question, yes and no. Most of us put the 1st gen petcock on reserve position and leave it. The danger of breaking the thing while on the road is greater than the danger of having a carb go nuts on us. If we keep our engines running properly, we should never get a stuck float. (hah) Of course, dirty gas on the road at a station in the middle of nowhere can do the trick...but for the most part, the 1st gens have been pretty good at not having leak issues...or...hydrolock issues due to fuel flowing. Now for winter storage...that's a whole other ball game. Every thing I've read says full fuel, treat it and go away. My dad used to do the opposite. Drain everything and leave it. He never had issues after a New England winter. His snowblower started each season, his lawnmower started each season.....so I think if I was in the northern latitudes, I would do the same. Why tempt fate? So there ya go. Either this post will get more answers back to you or not. But it's what I believe. Your choice really.

I recently put an R1 caliper on the rear of my 89. With help and guidance from VanRiver, I re-used the OEM line. The twist in the line due to the different placement of the banjo was relieved by loosening the clamp that holds down the line on the swingarm, allowing the line to move forward and relax. Line is out of the way and still supported by the holddown.

Let me see if I can help. The rear end is probably what's causing your uneasy feeling in a turn. Put her up on the center stand, grab on to the rear wheel and pull/push side to side. If you get play, your bushings and bearings on the swing arm are dry or gone. It's an easy job, per se, but does take some oomph and a proper sized socket. Torque wrenches are your friend! BTW, when she is on the center stand, take some tie downs and run from the stand forward to the engine guard on each side. Tighten. This will allow you to crank on the rear axle to get it off without fear of the scoot rolling forward off the stand. While you are there, read up in the 1st Gen tech section about taking the rear end apart. It is easy as well...and everything there needs to be checked and greased. The plastic is also easy. Lots of posts about repairs. In most cases, you can use a non hardening putty like modeling clay and make a mold, then use plastic or thin cardboard to design your part. You can buy ABS black sheets on the internet cheap. I got 3 - 1 foot square 1/8th thick BS sheets from Interstate plastics....you might even have a local shop that has some garbage pieces left over that they will sell for cheap. I had broken fairing on my left side from a parking lot fall. I took it off, filled with epoxy on both sides, sanded down and then had some paint made to match. Bought a cute little spray gun from Harbor Freight and went to work. My first attempt was not good. Needed more sanding and fairing ...but my second attempt came out pretty good. Got lots of help and advice from the forum members here and encouragement too! Here are some repair threads>>> http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?126681-Plastic-repair&highlight=plastic+repairs and my adventure with repairing and painting plastic! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?119659-Doing-some-repairs-to-89&highlight=plastic+repairs I'm still in the process of finding and rebuilding the little tabs here and there. I'm now actually enjoying that part of bike ownership! Most of the bolts and nuts can be found at the local hardware store these days. My ACE and True Value both have a small sizing thingie that I take a bolt or nut in, and put it on the metric side and write down the size. Yamaha uses a simple system for their bolt part numbers. The last digits correspond to the size and length of the bolt. Most are usually .125 (fine) pitch threads. Only one I haven't found is the bolt that goes on the rear master brake cylinder reservoir. They just don't carry that guy. As far as why your fairing doesn't fly off when running down the freeway? Well...Yamaha did a good job of making that front end slippery to the wind. I still have one tab on the lower right side not repaired and a tie tie holds it in place. Solid at 75mph. But this little tab is on the list regardless! Hope some of this helps....just be patient searching. Changed your search terms if you don't find what you are looking for. Sometimes I've found myself spending a whole morning following threads, especially the ones at the bottom of the page. They are usually related to what I'm looking for and seem to go on forever. Copy the links onto a notepad page for future research. Enjoy the scoot!

Rotors on Ebay. There are some good resellers who specialize on stripping donor scoots and selling the parts. All of the good ones offer returns and guarantees. I bought a used left front for my scoot from Pinwall. Works great!

Hmmm...sounds like something is binding. Lift or lower the tire a bit. Maybe the axle is binding there. Other than the swing arm on either side...the only thing left would be the tire. Nothing else should cause binding.... Last time that happened to me, I raised the tire just a smidge and tapped gently on axle. Then rotated the axle from right side and pulled. Out she came...

Wonder if this would work for you....maybe they can make a quick release set up, too.... http://www.wompusracks.com/ Found them just searching around one day...

Pretty! I still like snow.....but love the sun more....grins!

Didn't think your part of the country would have rates that high, even with a lapse. I paid quite a bit more when I was in Phoenix. But now I live 30 miles south of Tucson...pretty quiet here. Full liability means more than the minimum the state requires. Gotta have that around here as people sue at the drop of a hat. Don't want to lose my house and stuff just because an idiot has a better lawyer than I do. I'm to old to start again.... Yea, those animals have no sense whats so ever. The deer are the worst....dumb as can be.

$662.00 per year for full liability $300K/100K, uninsured, underinsured, theft, comp and collision. Progressive Insurance....been with them since 2011. Discounts for 3 scoots, 09 Vstar, 89VR and 05 RSV. Plus riders course, plus being with USAA for banking and home insurance. USAA does not offer scoot insurance but refers to Progressive. No comment on government cr*p, political cr*p and health insurance anywhere....

I'm in too. As soon as we can find them in stock!

Thanks! Regarding windshield...sounds like the large screen is causing a bit of a vacuum in the pocket where you sit...sucking fumes back at you. Venting the windscreen "should" take care of that.... FJR calipers are on my list as well. And the LED headlight, and LED accent lights for the bottom of the fairing, and LED flood lights for night visibility, and....!! But for now, the Admiral has me on sailboat detail. She wants to get back on the water...so these next couple of weeks are cleaning and building "stuff" for the boat. Always something!

Hmm..JPCycles says the 90 aspect ratio won't fit our RSV's. Since you installed one on the front, Their site is wrong....correct? P.S. Thanks for LED write up. I'm waiting for the H4's to come back in stock!

Another thought on Seafoam... They make a spray as well as the liquid. With the air filter off and motor running, you can spray Seafoam directly into each venturi. By spraying direct you are cleaning the fuel passages in the carb. Do this for a few minutes on each carb then shut her down. Let her soak for a few. Fire up. The soaking helps clean as well. One of the benefits of spraying, is you burn off carbon deposits. Find a bottle in the store and read the instructions. I don't use the hook guide but do use the cleaning tube. Can says SeaFoam Spray on it. There is even a youtube video a guy did using his lawnmower and a camera to look inside and see results. Interesting stuff, this Seafoam. PS. Don't rev motor. Dont want a backfire in your face!

Well...the timing is about right for this being the year. But.....

That's what I did with your parts. Now...do you have a 1 into 3? Thinking of adding some LED's to my front fairing and need another couple of taps!! Grins!

Maybe something like this will help... https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Grade-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket/dp/B0002KRC5Y Regardless, I tapped into the socket wiring inside the fairing and ran a 2 plug wire out and it's on the handlebar. So I have a secure connection if I need it.

Well said, Bubber, well said. Ride in Peace, Black Owl. Though we never met...your legacy will ride on for those of us who follow..

I don't have one on any of my scoots as they take away from my close in vision. Suggest you ask @Freebird to move this post to either the 1st Gen or 2nd gen area... Spending upon which one you have. Probably gets a lot of responses there...

Agreed. Ace or True Value. Take bolt with you. They usually have a sizing board.. One part is SAE, the other is metric. Fit the bolt in one of the metric holes until you get it to turn easily. That's the size and pitch. Now go to the bins with that size and find the length. I've replaced all of my bolts and nuts this way on the bikes. Is there any member near you who can help this weekend??

Yea that...about the pics... Add the Burlwood dash treatment ?? what the....?? I have the evil twin sister...

My 2004 Yukon XL SLT with 5.3 has 186K now. Has had a hard life towing 4200 pound boat around the country....and living in Arizona. Still running very well. Did belts and hoses at 106K with the 100K service. So far, except for a motor whoopie for the rear heat and a dash speedo recall, she has performed flawlessly. Still has original brakes, water pump, alternator, etc.. I put on tires and do the oil changes. Knock on wood...