videoarizona

For your summer trip South, I highly recommend Shinko 777HDs. Front and rear. cowpuc is right, the desert heat really tears up the tires. You will be happy! And safe. My 89 loves her Shinko 230 Tourmasters. The 777's are their big brother. Heavier duty. Boy, do they stick like glue! I put the 777 on the rear of the VStar...... Really happy with it. They are going on the RSV as soon as I can.

Left at O-dark 30 this morning for another run to Phoenix on the RSV. Got about 40 miles away from home and there is a "pop" in the audio and the dash dies, the motor hiccups, the cruise goes out and I'm stunned. Of course I slam on brakes to try and make the exit that is flying by at 75mph and the rear locks up. Guess when you guys say the rear locks easy, you aren't fooling! I let off the brake just as the rear started skidding out...and managed to recover and coasted off the freeway....stopped...motor running sweetly but dash gone. When I could breathe again, I checked the bike over. Motor still running fine, headlights, running lights and tail lights working fine. No horn, cruise, dash lights, speedo, brake lights or turn signals. Get back on road and take next exit. Gas up and pull over to check out fuses. Sure enough, the signal fuse is gone. Everything else looks fine. So I put another fuse in, she starts up and everything works. OK...guessing that fuse just wanted to commit hari kari, I got back on the road. About 3 minutes later, fuse blows again. I turn around and go back home. Fun..going through what is now morning rush hour traffic on I-10 in Tucson with no signals, horn, etc.. On a side note: The cruise lights are giving me 2 blinks then 3 blinks...but with the fuse blown, that may be correct. No fuse installed could simulate a brake/clutch switch being bad. Also, about half way home the engine light came on. No warning or blinks...just came on. At home, when I turned on ignition to start the auto self-check feature...no blinks on the engine light. Without the signal fuse in, she starts and runs fine, good charging and no engine light at all now. Interesting that all of this could be related to a short in the signal system somewhere... Got home and pulled the book...then saw a note about Seaking having the same problem. So I have been searching the forum and writing down every instance of a blown signal fuse and what was found to be the cause. I won't have time today to tear the scoot apart but when I do come back, I'll do so and let everyone know what caused my issue to add to the database. The 89 Blue Beastie is going to stretch her legs tonight going up to Phoenix!

Looking over the wiring of the audio system...Yamaha wants you to check 5 fuses. I think the reasoning is that they are all related somehow. If you downloaded the service manual...look starting on page 8-51. Section 8 is the troubleshooting section. I think the audio section starts on pg 50 of that section. 2 of those fuses are the aux 12 volt connectors, one front and one rear. Don't know why, but guess they must have some bearing on the audio section otherwise why bother to test them? Regardless...this would seem to be the next steps for you to take. If you have already followed all these tests, my apologies.

Good links, RR... Thank you. As far as wireless units... My GMC Yukon xl has had them for 13 years now...184k miles. Still accurate. But I still prefer a gauge with two wheel rides. I'm old school about that too.

Then any good spark plug socket which has the rubber insides to capture the plug so you can pull it out will work. Of course, I can't remember the size... Hopefully some one else will chip in. Just make sure you blow some air in to clean the area around the plug. It is a deep hole and did accumulate junk. Don't want that in combustion chamber.

If you have the bikes tool kit, is easy to pull plug. Ground it in cylinder and fire her up. If the area is dark, you should see a fat spark. If not, then you know you have an electrical problem. You could swap plugs and test again. Don't hold on to wire... The shock smarts!! Btw, look at the electors end of plug closely. Make sure the tip isn't bridged by Gunk.

I'm on the road, but looking over some news on scoots, saw a very brief, one line, about Honda has a new patent on a V4 for motorcycle. 2017-2018. Sorry that's all I know, but maybe some one that can research this... Be heartbroken if Honda goes in that direction and Yamaha does not...

I thought they were hex bolts?

Fuse?

So.... Is there a reliable tire pressure gauge that we can pack with us that does work? Do I have to buy a dozen of those small $2 units and use one until it breaks then throw! I have the hand pump with the gauge but putting it on while laying on my back is not fun. And the normal car size units don't fit on the rim well. The the gauge with the soft hose looses to much air with my arthritic hands trying to get the hose on straight... Best solution choices?

No. Not difficult at all. If you are familiar with splitting the fairing, then this is easy. Take the headlight out of it's frame, pull old bulb. Put old bulb is a prescription case wrapped nicely for a backup. Install new bulb, plug in little controller box then check to make sure everything works. If yes, put her back together and start the alignment process. There are pics and posts about what others have done...look them up to get a feel for what to expect.

True. But since WinXP is still about the most popular OS out there....I'm glad they still realize that!!

Don't know. When I tested for a few minutes, no heat at all. I simply spread the braid out. It was tight in there. I will check later.....and maybe stick my hand up in there to see... \

Touring scoot.....

FYI, Microsoft released a fix for the security issue with Win XP a couple of weeks ago as well for the WannaCry hack. It should be on the web site. I'm running Win XP 3 and the fix took only a few minutes to download and install.

Seriously, have you replaced or pulled the coil ends of the front two coils to look? If you haven't, that would be my next step....Btw, you can still buy wire and caps as a matched set with 5k ohm resistance that plug right in.

Base Info: Brightness. 1157-CW27-T6200K 80/290. lm. 200 mA$14.95 1157-NW27-T4000 K 100/330 lm. 200 mA$14.95 1157-A27-T595 nm 70/280. lm. 207 mA$14.95 1157-R27-T630 nm 12/55. lm. 105 mA$14.95 Knowing that you should match led color to lens color.... Here is the question: If you take a 4000k led with 100/330 lumens and put in red lens... Subtract lumen loss from red lens, will that still be brighter than a red led putting out 12/55 lumens with a red lens??? Inquiring mind wants to know.

Ya know... Previous post reminded me.... When I first got the 89, I was amazed at the power. But my mpgs were in the low 30's. I figured the problem was in my right wrist. After trying to be good, my mpgs weren't any better. I took off all four plug wires and found the front two were seriously corroded. Cut off 1/2 inch to clean wire... Pushed the ends back in and what a difference. New plugs and wires a little later and I was up to 42 mpg.... Unless my right wrist got excited! So yes... Wires and plugs.

As long as the pattern is good on low beam... You should be good to go. I like being able to adjust beam on the road. Out here I want my low beams as high as I can go without opposing drivers getting blinded. To many 4 and 2 legged creatures wandering the roads in the desert at night. I chose a passive cooling...I was concerned about the fan failures others have had.. As well as possible electrical interference in the audio system from fan motor. They look like a good choice as well.

Sorry if I'm repeating info... But do you have the shop manual? If yes, read over setting the floats. The Jets and the air cleaner/ intake boots. Clogged jets, leaking intake and floats are probably the top issues with our carbs and the crappy gas we have and the age of the bikes. That and dragging brakes are the top issues with mpgs. Plus, search the older posts here, paying attention to the suggestions at the bottom of every page. They can lead you off into some great areas.... The problem you have had probably been covered at least once over the years... So the solution may be right around the corner. Worse case to all this is you will learn so much about your bike! Also consider changing rear end oil...10 minute job. Then you know that is done. Do the simple things first. Get confident about your abilities with bike. Wishing you luck with this. You will figure it out, but first you have to figure out what the previous owner did or did not do. Make the corrections if necessary, and continue on. I didn't do that. I "assumed" when the dealer said they went through the bike.. that they did. I found out not so. The rear caliper was obviously hardly working when I got bike and I didn't know it until one of our members was telling me he was happy with his brakes... And that's when I checked. Bad on me for not going completely through bike as I learned more and more with the help of the great folks here. Crossing fingers you will enjoy the journey of learning your scoot!!!

Agreed, but I would do the North Rim. The ride down to it, then back up past the Vermillion Cliffs and around to Marble Canyon and down to Flagstaff is worth it. And cooler. No crowds like the South Rim.

Excellent! All dialed in. Nice pattern. I really like the wide pattern on low beam. Even if I adjust the led down more than normal, the high beam takes up the slack with a nice long throw. I think Broview did a very good job engineering these bulbs.

I'm thinking liquid cooled v twin. Full blown dresser with lots of options... Or tons of standard equipment, including stuff no one else has. If the v twin is as well engineered as our beloved v4, it will be a no brainier. But a v4 would be sweet...for sure.