videoarizona

Had that happen to me on VStar.. At full throttle. No problems with belt.

Interesting article on comparing drives. I replaced the rear tire on my VStar 95Tourer last month. The belt was easy to get to. Hoping the new Venture is designed same way. There is no reason the rear end has to come apart just to replace a belt!

Yammer, that should do it. Those reed valves get weak. Also check the gaskets at all joints and the rings. Rings can get sloppy and leak air as well. But, let's hope the kit solves the problem!

The above article answers all the questions. Nice. Thanks!

:sign yeah that:my friend with the HD Ultra wont ride down dirt roads..... Get a stone in the belt... You are toast. I have no problems with belt drive. I'm not taking a 900 pound beast out in the desert anyway.

[h=2] Re: New Star Venture[/h] Oh.. cowpuc's response was "poop" !

Oh.. @cowpuc's response was "poop" !

I do like it. Shame on v4 but I'm ok with air cooled. No more plumbing issues. Like the combined braking with abs, standard heated seats, low ride height, forward and reverse power assist for parking, traction control, riding modes, integrated audio system, voice, touch screen or handle bar controls for audio, controls, winds protection adjustable, advanced throttle, all electronic no more cruise cables or throttle cables, six speed, belt drive, same length as RSV but heavier. Also really like the huge alternator... Over 700 watts! All in all I think they did a good job!!!

@cowpuc "Puc will be wearing his WV international shirt." So we need to keep our eyes open!!

Latest news from@cowpuc: "They are having two unveilings with a show between them. Please post on venture rider that puc will be in the show!"

Scott and Tippy are in the front row..... Waiting!!! Yay @cowpuc!!!

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?129385-1st-Gen-LED-Headlight

The CMU is mounted on the dash panel... Take out panel, flip over and unplug the connectors, unscrew the screws holding unit to panel, take CMU out. Use Dingies pics above to solder across the points carefully. When done, you will be able to change all bulbs to led and not have any warnings. For the headlight, you need to jumper the RLU..... Reserve lighting unit. Black thing mounted in same area as dash. Right in front under windshield. Disconnect the connector. Jumper the connector as per my post last week. 4 jumpers. Now the RLU is no longer in circuit and the computers are happy campers.

Great advice guys but he says he's challenged by electrical issues. Anyone near him to help with learning how to do this? Regardless.... Think you need to find a way to throw in a new plug on#4.

Yea.. With a mk1 looking front end. That would be interesting.. For sure!

Thought I would have some fun so I watched as a fuse blow. Twice.

Thought I would have some fun so I watched as a fuse blew. Twice.

BTW, the latest email from Yamaha features a picture of the right rear... definitely a touring scoot.

Yikes!!! So good to hear Becky is ok! Give her lots of hugs, Bob. Gently though!

For your summer trip South, I highly recommend Shinko 777HDs. Front and rear. cowpuc is right, the desert heat really tears up the tires. You will be happy! And safe. My 89 loves her Shinko 230 Tourmasters. The 777's are their big brother. Heavier duty. Boy, do they stick like glue! I put the 777 on the rear of the VStar...... Really happy with it. They are going on the RSV as soon as I can.

Left at O-dark 30 this morning for another run to Phoenix on the RSV. Got about 40 miles away from home and there is a "pop" in the audio and the dash dies, the motor hiccups, the cruise goes out and I'm stunned. Of course I slam on brakes to try and make the exit that is flying by at 75mph and the rear locks up. Guess when you guys say the rear locks easy, you aren't fooling! I let off the brake just as the rear started skidding out...and managed to recover and coasted off the freeway....stopped...motor running sweetly but dash gone. When I could breathe again, I checked the bike over. Motor still running fine, headlights, running lights and tail lights working fine. No horn, cruise, dash lights, speedo, brake lights or turn signals. Get back on road and take next exit. Gas up and pull over to check out fuses. Sure enough, the signal fuse is gone. Everything else looks fine. So I put another fuse in, she starts up and everything works. OK...guessing that fuse just wanted to commit hari kari, I got back on the road. About 3 minutes later, fuse blows again. I turn around and go back home. Fun..going through what is now morning rush hour traffic on I-10 in Tucson with no signals, horn, etc.. On a side note: The cruise lights are giving me 2 blinks then 3 blinks...but with the fuse blown, that may be correct. No fuse installed could simulate a brake/clutch switch being bad. Also, about half way home the engine light came on. No warning or blinks...just came on. At home, when I turned on ignition to start the auto self-check feature...no blinks on the engine light. Without the signal fuse in, she starts and runs fine, good charging and no engine light at all now. Interesting that all of this could be related to a short in the signal system somewhere... Got home and pulled the book...then saw a note about Seaking having the same problem. So I have been searching the forum and writing down every instance of a blown signal fuse and what was found to be the cause. I won't have time today to tear the scoot apart but when I do come back, I'll do so and let everyone know what caused my issue to add to the database. The 89 Blue Beastie is going to stretch her legs tonight going up to Phoenix!

Looking over the wiring of the audio system...Yamaha wants you to check 5 fuses. I think the reasoning is that they are all related somehow. If you downloaded the service manual...look starting on page 8-51. Section 8 is the troubleshooting section. I think the audio section starts on pg 50 of that section. 2 of those fuses are the aux 12 volt connectors, one front and one rear. Don't know why, but guess they must have some bearing on the audio section otherwise why bother to test them? Regardless...this would seem to be the next steps for you to take. If you have already followed all these tests, my apologies.

Good links, RR... Thank you. As far as wireless units... My GMC Yukon xl has had them for 13 years now...184k miles. Still accurate. But I still prefer a gauge with two wheel rides. I'm old school about that too.