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I don't see how you determined the battery has enough amps. Apologies if I missed that. If not - Take the battery to Auto Zone or similar place and get a free load test. If you do the battery trick mentioned above...make sure you do NOT start the car...only connect a good battery to the bike battery. Having the car running could fry your bikes electronics. A weak battery will do what you are saying....and can still show 12volts! After that tests good (hopefully), then check the ignition switch and the 2 ignition shutoff switches. Check the main fuse on bottom left side under passenger foot rest area for clean contacts. The ignition switch can go bad if you haven't installed a bypass relay as there is a heavy electrical load going through the switch. The ignition shut off switch on the right handlebar can get pretty dirty. Easy to clean. The roll-over switch can be tested...download the 2nd Gen shop manual on this site.

UPDATE: Last week, I got a clutch MC from KIC.....he also gave me two pipes for my 89 as one of mine is seriously rusted out near the rear of the muffler tip. (BTW, thank you Bill!), I took them home and went out to clean them up. Well, here I am...sitting on the garage floor...hand scraping with aluminum foil and the Boss comes out with some goop. She says: "Try this...will work much easier". I try it. Grab a clean handful of foil and go to work. Oh my....rust and discoloration comes right off! Needless to say...it worked. So here is the secret formula. Permission from the Boss. She did say it didn't work quite as good as a shower cleaner...but even she was impressed with how it took off the grease, grime and rust! and the results...on one pipe. Just sayin....

Darn straight I will! (after we grab some hot dogs and chat a while!)

In Phx, brown (?) 1st gen. Tatum and Shea at 3:42 pm. Venture was heading eastbound on Shea, I was West bound. I couldn't turn around as road is divided there. Another bike was right behind him. Anyone from our group?

Puc, That is so funny to see E6000 used on the scoot! Considering I was using it on the roads... Well, excellent to know that the tube I have sitting around can have a new life with my bikes. Thanks!! Be safe and have a wonderful ride.

Was at my neighborhood Tractor Supply. Look what I found... I flipped the 2nd container around... You can see it didn't have any slick modifiers!! Good price too... FYI...

Beads. Dealer tried then on my RSV. But they didn't work. It wasn't until later that I found out the RSV front tire is so big, you need a lot of beads. They didn't have enough. So make sure you put enough in, Sir Pucster!!

I hope you like the Shinko 230 on the front. I love mine. Have them on both front and rear of 89. Be curious how well the tire holds up with your load and speed. I keep air pressure near max on both. Stick like glue and ride nicely indeed!

E6000. Funny! I used that stuff to put reflectors down in our HOA roads. Worked real well. Only issue I had with that stuff was it took a long time to cure. BTW, I let it dry on my fingers then peel it off. Let us know how it works! Safe trip, Puc!!!

Decided to make a little swamp cooler for use in garage. Saw this little design on you tube. Uses a 2x3, Harbor Freight pump ($8), some screen material, 12 wood screws, 2ft of 1/2 inch pvc and two 90 degree elbows, hose bib and cap. Drill 1/8 holes in pvc.. About every 1/2 inch. The media is 2 courses of cooler media. And a window box for the water. Entire thing costs around $60. I epoxied the drain holes in window box, built frame, used roofing rype nails to hold screen on frame. Fun stuff... Once epoxy has cured, I'll throw pump in box, add water then set a 20 inch box fan on one side. Turn everything on and enjoy cool air. At least it will be cooler than typical Arizona heat! Btw, this will only work when the dew point is below 55 degrees. Any more than that, the air is to saturated to cool much.

SlickSpot, Hope you don't mind a thread hijack at this point. All: Since the"whine" problem gets brought up a lot, I thought I would change the thread direction. Helping keep the conversation fresh for the search engine as well as maybe try to consolidate the types of whine we hear. Please correct any mistakes or add what I might have missed. There are actually 5 types of whines available for our 1st and/or 2nd gens. 1. Gear whine. 2. Clutch basket whine 3. Tire whine 4. Output shaft (middle drive gear) at Ujoint breaks. 5. Drive shaft to rear end interface break. 1: Gear whine. This is not a problem. Rather it's a result of the straight cut gears in the trannie. For some, changing the oil to synthetic quiets that down. For others, going with dino 20-50wt does the trick. 2: Clutch. I believe this is a real problem in early mk1's. Remedied by replacing clutch basket with new model. For the rest of us... It is what it is... And not a problem. 3: Tires. Many of us have experienced tire whine. Usually associated with either worn tread, low air pressure or the dreaded cupping of some tires. Almost always the whine is most pronounced in a turn. Tire whine can be used as an early warning of possible tire problems. Age, low air or damage. 4: The output shaft (middle drive gear) at the U joint can break right at the nut. Leaving the nut and end of shaft sitting inside the u joint. So far, I don't believe we have had any incidents of shaft lock up, so the nut must be just the right size to tumble around. This is a real problem, but the bike is rideable since the front end of the u joint is sitting on the splined end of the output shaft. It will drive fine, but whine. This problem only has appeared on 1st gens. Consensus is the shaft was probably not heat treated properly at factory or damaged from hard de-celleration. This problem is easily confirmed by removing left saddlebag and side cover, pushing the spring and the rubber cover off the end of the motor exposing the u joint. With bike on stand and trannie in neutral, you can spin tire, watch u joint turn and see if the nut is tumbling around inside u joint. Flashlight helps. Repair is straight forward but does require taking rear end of bike apart to get to the output of the motor. A new shaft with it's associated shims will be needed. 5: Last is the input shaft to the rear end. It is a small shaft that holds the coupling gear via a nut. The coupling gear is splined and the drive shaft slips into this couple to drive rear end. This problem is easy to identify as the whine is most pronounced when you back off of throttle. Again, there doesn't seem to be any history of danger will this condition while riding as the drive shaft end sits inside the splined coupling gear and will still drive the bike. Just loud whine! This is only a1st Gen issue. It can be checked by taking tire off, taking rear end off, pulling drive shaft out of rear end. In my case, the broken end of the coupling shaft came out when I pulled drive shaft out of rear end. Reminder, on mk1's, the drive shaft is greased on both ends prior to re-assembly. The mk2's are greased only on the front splined end that goes into the u joint. The rear end is the drive shaft is oiled by the rear end oil. Here is an older thread about the 1st Gen broken shaft. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?91454-Rear-End-Questions&highlight=Rear+break I think I've covered all the "whines" produced by our scoots. With the exception of the whine we hear from the northern latitudes when a certain fool is testing his snow machine!! Can't do anything about that whine as the only cure is called Spring. Hope this helps and feel free to add or correct the info here.

Sedona is getting so crowded now, it's tiring on 2 wheels. Try riding 89a, rt260, 89, or any of the 2 Lanes in the mountains. Just don't do it when it's crowded... That's the primary reason I prefer riding in southern Az. No people. Just nice little roads going someplace.... Usually a cool place.

Prayers to you both!!

Bob, I'm running the 1 1/2 inch Baron's and I have no issues with throttle or brake. The only issue I do have is the bars hitting the plastic ignition surround on the tank. And that only occurs when the bars are hard over...for example, when locked. [/color]

Wondering how these might work on a 2nd Gen? https://www.ledfactorymart.com/collections/jeep-led-headlights/products/led-headlight-drl-hi-lo-beam-for-jeep-wrangler

FYI, my 89 will not start first time with full choke. However, with 1/2 choke, she fires right up with no help from the throttle. Try that and see. The 05 needs full choke to start first time. No throttle. But I agree...this winter do a nice carb cleaning. Change fuel filter, air cleaners, etc. Might just be time....

In your first post, you said the motor turns over but doesn't start. If that is still the case, go back to the switches mentioned. They will kill all four cylinders. Not much else can take out the entire ignition system unless the TCI computer went out or a fuse/connection is out to lunch in the ignition circuit. If that is not the case now, then Steve is right....look elsewhere..

Usual suspects when the motor dies when going into gear are the kickstand switch, ignition switch and the two kill switches.... One on handlebar and the other for roll over. They are all tied together electrically to stop the motor. But the way some of our circuits are wired, that's the process I would use to trace the problem. The handlebar switch gets dirty, the kickstand switch gets dirty(1st choice) or has a bad connection, the roll over switch dies, the ignition switch gets burned contacts because to much current goes through there. The rest I mentioned are for you to check the connections and clean.

Attitude. For some, the only way they can sell, is to have an arrogant attitude. I've seen this in my business too. You want the sale? Have a "tude". It also can be a culture thing.... I just smile and do my thing...

Really sorry to hear about this. Wishing you mend quickly and get back on 2 wheels ASAP! Maybe a new Venture in your future??!! Take care, Mike. God Bless....

Cameron Trading post restaurant used to have very good Indian Fry Bread.....

No idea on mirrors, any extensions on the bars would be dangerous, I would think. Might look into putting a camera in rear of trailer with wireless monitor on bike. Could power camera off of running lights circuit to trailer as that circuit would be on full time bike was running. Controllers. Go with smallest you can find as you would want fingertip control so you can keep hands on bars while still being able to engage controller to let trailer slow you down. The primary issue with tongue weight is not only raising front end but also keeping control of trailer in winds and such. Don't want trailer dancing behind you. Also remember weights quoted are dry weights. If you are like the rest of us, your loaded weight will be significantly higher! My 2000lb boat goes down the road at 4200 pounds! Another thought. Would bike have enough electrical capacity to run trailer brakes when engaged? I have no clue what they draw. Don't they have a backup battery on trailer for emergency breaking if trailer breaks away from vehicle? If so, maybe you can run that battery to provide juice for brake circuit and let bike run only the controller.... Of course, you must provide a charging circuit for that battery as well.... I like the larger trailers.... You got me thinking as I've been looking for a camping trailer to pull with Yukon. Good find! Thanks.

Very interesting idea. But my fear isn't the pulling weight, rather the 80 pound tongue weight. My feeling is that would be way to much for our bikes..... Making the front end dangerously light. As well as the rear frame would need to be reinforced. More weight. The pulling weight would require the Barnett clutch conversion, electric brakes on trailer with handlebar controller, external mirrors, etc. Maybe if you triked the scoot... This would be a match.???

If I had some extra bux, that would be fun to play around with..... For sure.

I do believe you can do that. Put Progressive springs in. But even if you do that, why drop the air? The air system works great for different loads and riding style. People have defeated the antidive system as well... Feeling it wasn't needed with the Progressive springs. Just curious...