videoarizona

Has anyone found a bolt on 2 pot caliper for our RSV's?

If you don't have a manual, suggest you search this site for the link and download the user manual. The audio set up is a bit complicated at first, but after use it becomes quite easy.... Lots of good stuff you can do...

Started the day by cleaning up the pair of R6 calipers I got in that I plan on using with the RSV. Rotors are due in next week. Bought the rotors so when the tire changing people warp them, I won't be to upset...just put the new ones on! Here are the calipers.....on the right is the clean one....I also have two stainless lines that came with the calipers...wonder if they'll fit the RSV??? Plus I now have part of the master cylinder from an R6 if anyone needs one....free... Then cleaned up the VR..... She wanted to go for a ride...so off we went. Headed down around Tubac and back....stopped at this little B&B and artist studio new the Cow Palace.... The sun was getting low in the sky so home we went... Nice day! Riding again on Sunday if the RSV wants to!

Great stuff, @cowpuc! Love this picture.... Like to ride that road wherever it is! And this one..... what a great ride! Thanks for sharing!!

Found this last week. Sorry I had to wait to get home to find it again... http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2017/05/whats-the-best-34-ton-premium-truck-for-2017.html

Spence, Agreed. The diesel point was what interested me the most. But for now the Yukon does very well with the 4200 pound sailboat. I average about the same just a tad higher towing.

Have a friend who has had 2 Nissan trucks, both were very dependable. He had same issue.....parts were expensive and labor was higher than expected due to engineering design...IE...harder to get to the area to repair, if that makes any sense... But they loved the trucks... On my end, it looks like my Yukon XL will tow 8400 pounds. I've found aftermarket and original trailer mirrors are available, and the dealer says my truck will tow a 7K trailer just fine with the $800 anti-sway/load equalization hitch added to trailer. Electric brakes are built-in to my truck's wiring so just need to add controller. So now I'm re-thinking getting a new truck. i like the ride/handling and mpg's of my XL with 5.3 V8. So might keep it and see how well it tows a trailer. I like reading this thread...lots of impressions on various trucks!

Fuel gauge should be simple. take off seat, pull gauge, clean and check the wipers.....and connectors to the gauge. may have to bend some things to get the gauge more accurate....should be some more info on this site. Do believe you aren't the first to work on a 1st gen gauge!1 Of course,make sure fuel level is low enough! Someone here should be able to tell you how much gas in tank to safely pull the gauge. it's on top of tank.... Interested in all these things you've done. It does help the rest of us....to read what you have done...

Good breakdown. I drive a 2004 GMC Yukon XL. It's been the perfect truck for 198K miles.... Nothing major replaced. Even have original brakes... Despite towing a 2 ton boat since truck was new. But I'm now looking for a new 3/4 ton so I can better tow a travel trailer. I'm open to all brands as well... So I'll be watching to see what others say... I know... I'm not much help to you, Lenny... Sorry....

No.... At least I wouldn't...if surfaces are clean...and in good condition...

Craig, Good prayers and thoughts coming your way! Attitude is the miracle worker with our health. Prayers Up!! david

KIC, Bill, I found my older post showing how I took the cluster apart. Simple really. You can print this and give to guy who's buying your 1st Gen or send him the link... Near the bottom is an explanation and more pictures... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?129385-1st-Gen-LED-Headlight&highlight=Reserve+lighting+unit Sorry it took so long....

Welcome to the Forum, Don. We try to ride about every 2 weeks...but that depends upon whether my "Boss" wants to go sailing! We do that as well. We also have a house in Southern Arizona so when we aren't sailing or riding in Phoenix, we are riding in the South! For rides...once you get settled...and get your bike...we can meet and go over some rides. We've done day rides, weekend rides all over the state. I've been here since 1969...and have forgotten more than I remember about the roads in Arizona. For now, get a good map and look over the 2 lanes from the Phoenix area going outbound. Again, welcome! david

Very nice! Wish I could make you an offer if you decide not to keep her, but the Admiral wants a Travel trailer....sigh...always something!! But how do you back those things up? Do I get off and push, then jump on as it rolls down the driveway! Grins!

Night and day difference down here in the desert...thanks!

@grubsie, I'm running the Shinko 230 series on my 89 1st gen front and rear. Stock sizes. Looks almost new in front and about halfway down in rear after 3 years. Good tires. I'll go with the 777's on the RSV soon...130 up front and stock in rear. Just need to find the time to get it done while I'm in Phoenix....

Found another.... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?110465-Knocking-sound-from-near-Generator-Housing-area&highlight=engine+knocking Nice breakdown of the carbs...be nice to see the rest of the pics. Thanks!

I was also thinking of taking a good look at the stator while I was in there. Mine might be original. If I can swing the $$, it would be a good idea to replace with new. Then I have a known spare and I should be good to go for some time. At least for the rest of my riding time...another 4 to 5 years maybe. Have a friend who has a 1st Gen trike here in Green Valley and we've been talking about doing both scoots together. He's not on the forum but does his own work for the most part.

Yea...good thought. I had the same problem on my VStar 650. Forgot about that one! Simple O ring and easy to get to... I'll add that to the list! Oil level halfway up the glass. Learned that lesson 4 years ago just after I got the scoot and read the posts here. Thanks.

Yea me too. I thought the cluster came out real easy from the front...

Thanks, Carl. Yes the clutch slave will be replaced. I think it's original and it is probably gunked up pretty bad by this time. Wouldn't hurt to replace any original parts while I'm in there as well. Thanks for the ideas!

Jeff...you got it. I have already cleaned and then put some miles on her looking for leaks. Without taking off the covers I can't tell... And yes...I did read the write up on cleaning the grommet(for lack of a better word) around the stator wires before RTV'ing the area. Guess I need to be more thorough in my first post....sorry about that!

On the left side.....either the shift shaft oil seal, the seal around the stator wires or a gasket is leaking on my 89. Is this all I need for parts? 2 gaskets, 1 oil seal and 1 washer for the screw in the intermediate shaft cover... Yamaha Oil Seal 93102-12321-00 Your Price: $4.60 ++++++++ Yamaha Gasket, Crankcase Cover 2 3JP-15461-01-00 Your Price: $3.57 ++++++++ Yamaha Gasket, Crankcase Cover 1 3JP-15451-01-00 Your Price: $10.38 ++++++ Yamaha Gasket 90430-06014-00 Your Price: $2.44 +++++ I already have RTV goop and such if needed... TIA, david

Bill, Don't know if you got her fixed....but I found this older post.. ++++++++++++++++ MiCarl: Normally when the speed indicator breaks it thrashes around instead of just laying there. Since the odometers are down stream from the speed indicator their working tells you all the drive gears are ok. I'm willing to bet that the needle is stuck because it's been a bit gummed up and the cooler temps locked it or something decided to spend the winter in there. So, it's probably just cleaning and a bit of light lube on the gems in the movement. You'll have to pull the cluster to get to it: - Remove the CMS box from the back of the cluster - it's got a light pipe on it that requires you to rotate it out. - Remove the brightness control knob (there is a philips screw down in the hole holding it to the shaft). - There are about eight phillips screws in the back of the cluster that hold the bezel on. Remove them and pull off the bezel. - Remove the temp gauge from the cluster. This is the worst part because it has 3 little nuts, washers and wires holding it in. The back of the case is marked with the wire colors so you don't have to worry about forgetting where they go. - Now you can remove the two Philips screws that hold the speedometer in the cluster. Now you can see the workings of the speedometer. At the back is a worm gear that drives the odometers. On the front of that gear is a bar that spins inside an aluminum cup. The aluminum cup is attached to the same shaft as the speedometer needle. There is also a spring to return the needle to 0. Looking at the speedometer from the back, the metal cup should turn freely counter clockwise, with light resistance from the spring. It should snap back when released so the needle rests on the stop. I bet it either has some resistance or a nest built on it. If you decide to remove the needle you need to make some witness marks so you don't loose your calibration. With the needle resting on the 0 stop mark a line on the cup and speedometerframe adjacent to it. Now you know where the cup is positioned at 0 MPH. By holding the cup so it doesn't turn you can gently twist the needle and pull it off the shaft. When you put it back together twist the needle until the witness marks line up with the needle resting on the stop. This might all sound scary or confusing, but it's all pretty obvious when you see it.

Bill, Don't know if you got her fixed....but I found this older post.. ++++++++++++++++ MiCarl: Normally when the speed indicator breaks it thrashes around instead of just laying there. Since the odometers are down stream from the speed indicator their working tells you all the drive gears are ok. I'm willing to bet that the needle is stuck because it's been a bit gummed up and the cooler temps locked it or something decided to spend the winter in there. So, it's probably just cleaning and a bit of light lube on the gems in the movement. You'll have to pull the cluster to get to it: - Remove the CMS box from the back of the cluster - it's got a light pipe on it that requires you to rotate it out. - Remove the brightness control knob (there is a philips screw down in the hole holding it to the shaft). - There are about eight phillips screws in the back of the cluster that hold the bezel on. Remove them and pull off the bezel. - Remove the temp gauge from the cluster. This is the worst part because it has 3 little nuts, washers and wires holding it in. The back of the case is marked with the wire colors so you don't have to worry about forgetting where they go. - Now you can remove the two Philips screws that hold the speedometer in the cluster. Now you can see the workings of the speedometer. At the back is a worm gear that drives the odometers. On the front of that gear is a bar that spins inside an aluminum cup. The aluminum cup is attached to the same shaft as the speedometer needle. There is also a spring to return the needle to 0. Looking at the speedometer from the back, the metal cup should turn freely counter clockwise, with light resistance from the spring. It should snap back when released so the needle rests on the stop. I bet it either has some resistance or a nest built on it. If you decide to remove the needle you need to make some witness marks so you don't loose your calibration. With the needle resting on the 0 stop mark a line on the cup and speedometerframe adjacent to it. Now you know where the cup is positioned at 0 MPH. By holding the cup so it doesn't turn you can gently twist the needle and pull it off the shaft. When you put it back together twist the needle until the witness marks line up with the needle resting on the stop. This might all sound scary or confusing, but it's all pretty obvious when you see it.