Jump to content

videoarizona

Supporting Member
  • Posts

    4,224
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Everything posted by videoarizona

  1. Finally got around to putting highway pegs on RSV. Snugged them down good. Didn't use locktite and am wondering if I should. Still haven't installed the braces for the engine guards though. And still looking for a place to mount 2 spot lights for driving lights....wonder if I can find room down on the guards!!
  2. OK...I've been looking but can't find pics of your aux fuel tank. I'm curious.....
  3. Happy Easter!
  4. Just got this in January as a birthday gift from a long time friend. It's a replica and has a good rep for accuracy... Always loved the old west....
  5. Good call...I agree. JB Weld may fill in that gap and stay there. Let's hope the brain trust here can confirm or add more ino.
  6. The RLU only switches automagically between high and low beams IF one of the bulbs is burned out. That way you never lose lighting on a dark and stormy night in the middle of nowhere... Glad to hear the new relay solved the short problem. The bolt hole at the bottom center is supposed to have a washer on it under the bolt. If there wasn't one, then that's your leak. In other words...all the little bolts go in snugly by themselves. Only the bottom center bolt has a brass type washer to keep oil from leaking out of that hole.... BTW, do not overtighten these covers. Around 90 to 100 inch pounds I think...about what I can twist the tool with my wrist only. About 7 to 8 ft/lbs? I think this is the part.... Yamaha Gasket 90430-06014-00 If I missed something my apologies...
  7. I too just read this post. I'm so sorry to hear about your Mom. A part of me always misses mom. It's unavoidable for me. I wish you prayers that you will always have happy memories and smiles in the days ahead as you think of her.
  8. Ah darn.....I'm so sorry to hear of Cole's passing. Will keep his family in our prayers! Prayers Up!
  9. Anyone need one of these to run a tach? I got it for the VStar 950 and no longer have that scoot... Pm me if ya want it...
  10. That's about where I'm at. Would love to lose the weight so I can sleep normally again.
  11. Try tapping with the handle end of a screw driver on the turn cancelling relay. Wonder if it's stuck or just plain bad.
  12. I'm confused. If the headlamp relay is working properly and the switch is working and the RLU is working....the headlamp warning light should not come on unless a bulb goes bad. If it does come on with everything else working...then you have a dirty ground or connection on either the low or high beam circuit. I guess this... as the warning light normally comes on when it senses no current or less than normal current going to the high or low circuit...ie like a blown bulb. Some LED bulbs pull enough current to not turn on the warning lamp but most do not so we have to remove the RLU and jumper it to keep the warning off. Hence my thinking that if everything is working then the warning light coming on intermittently means you still have a connection or wire issue on either high or low beam wiring.
  13. And if the problem is in the turn signal circuit...1st place to look is the wires and connections from the turn signal switch to the lights. If all are good, then the relay is bad. Doubt the relay but I've been wrong before! Again...go for the switch first..left handlebar. Clean and check for burnt or cruddy contacts and maybe a shorted wire....crimped on the bars or in the fairing.
  14. Suggest instead of bypassing the RLU, fix the problem in the switch or the high or low beam circuit. My vote is dirty switch. The Reserve Lighting Unit is a lifesaver if you are on a dark road and lose a low or high beam. It does the switching automagically. Saving you from running off the road...blind as a bat...
  15. Here is the truth about living in ARIZONA.... 1: You will get used to a. The warm weather year around and b. The ability to see for miles. 2: Living costs are lower. Yes you will pay for the electricity to cool house in summer but it is more than made up for smaller heating bills in winter. We live in an SRP area so yes you get a rebate once a year from SRP for paying the higher APS rates. Still, if your house is well insulated you can drastically lower your AC bills. For example. My 1300 sq/ft house in Green Valley has serious attic insulation and the highest bill in summer is $115/month. Our house in Phoenix has no insulation in attic and none in walls and though it's 2x as large...the AC bill is 3 times...close to $400/month. BTW, my GV heating bill in winter averages $50/month in January for gas. PHX is close to $200. 3: Since everything is air conditioned...summer is easy. Just stay away from Phoenix. In 1970 when we had 100 days over 100 degrees, it still cooled off at night in the city after 8pm. Now...it's still 100 or more at 11pm. Seems all those parking lots and buildings have created a heat island. In Green Valley...it still cools off at night so no problem. Same with Tucson. 4: Fountain Hills is nice area. Trouble for me is some shopping requires driving into Scottsdale for Sprouts (veggies) or Walmart (24hr convenience stuff). But nice area to ride out and see the state....just hot though... 5: There is so much to do in Phoenix and the Valley of the Sun...if you get bored, it's your own fault. Restaurants of any flavor, shopping, arts, crafts, theaters, racing, sports...you name it...it's around the valley somewhere. 6: You can snow ski in winter, swim in winter...just depends upon where you go. We have everything but a beach and ocean. If California bites the big one with an earthquake and falls into the sea...we will have the ocean too! 7: Traffic is heavy in Phx....yeppers. We like Tucson better and it's a slower pace. 8: Southern Arizona (Tucson) is nicer than central (PHX area)....and northern AZ has pine trees, forests, lakes for fishing and much more. I can go on and on...but here's some pics... And very nice 2 lane roads to ride...many year around! Come on down.....
  16. The weather is warming up! Everywhere...good for youse guys and gals but not so good for me. A few more months and we will be down for riding...at least during the day! This past weekend....we finally got out in the boat again. Spent 3 days enjoying ourselves. Eating, drinking and sailing. The lake..... The Admiral...hiding because of "hat hair".... Us.....rafting up next to friends. We spent most of the weekend with them... The wind was blowing...but we managed to get 7 boats together for a night of fun....we also BBQ'd on the beach.... Obligatory "beauty shot"... Nice weekend.... Next trip will be our Cinco weekend. Don't know how many boats will make it since many of our members will be in the Bahamas chartering boats and plying the seas looking for pirates! Time to find a position to mount those highway pegs on the RSV. Then I can take her back up to Phoenix as we have a ride to Prescott, Jerome, Pine, Payson and back coming up in the middle of April. Till next time....
  17. I'm running both wheels with Shinko 777HDs. The load and speed ratings are as high as others, ride is very good and they are sticky. For me the only unknown is how long they will last. Oh, they ride right over tar strips and such without a wiggle. Running 38 front, 40 rear on my RSV
  18. What you described tells me the amplirider circuit is the problem. It's getting electrical interference from the gps power. Either the gps used a floating system design which floats the grounds or the amplirider does or both. ie, the circuit isn't grounded properly so normal ignition noise is being introduced into those circuits. I like the idea of trying out the gps on battery. If noise is gone, then the gps power is the problem. Now primary problem could still be the amplirider circuit design... But the culprit feeding the problem could be the gps. All that said..... Try the gps battery idea. If noise goes away find another power source or re-route the gps power wire differently. You can also try to shield the power wire with cheap, thin aluminum foil wrapped around power cord. Cover that mess with a wire cover so it looks somewhat decent. There are other things you can do... Like moving the amplirider to a different spot. As far as mounting volume.... On the inner fairing next to the 12 volt power plug there might be room. But that may cause noise too. Left handlebar behind by the push to talk switch?
  19. 1: The carb boots can look dry rotted and cracked and be perfectly fine. They have metal inserts and/or are plenty thick. 2: The vacuum plugs on the ports can leak real easy. Put some black RTV on them to seal any leaks then put them on or get some new ones. Anything that fits works. 3: You have an 85. I don't remember but check the left front vacuum port. If there is a line there...it could be leaking. It's the advance for the timing. Leak in this line and 2 things happen. She runs poorly (vacuum leak) and no power ( no or poor timing advance). 4: She will run poorly with air cleaner off...BUT...with cleaner off and engine running...watch all 4 slides and blip the throttle. All 4 slides should respond in similar fashion. If one is not then you have a torn diaphragm or other issues. These bikes run very well on 3 cylinders! The diaphragm can be temporarily repaired with a thin coat of black RTV over the pin holes. Also make sure it seats properly. There should be a tab on the diaphragm and a place for the tab to go on the carb body. It should be lined up. Make sure the edge of the diaphragm is seated all the way around. A little oil will help mit stick so it doesn't move when you put the cover on. Snug the cover screws in a cross pattern just snug. I replaced my screws with hex bolts. Much easier to deal with. 5: Electrical wires and hoses hanging free. Any wires and such that aren't connected are no doubt the result of the previous owner doing something they shouldn't or NOT doing something they should have. In this forum, under the 1st gen Tech section, should be a link for manuals. Download the service and the parts manuals. If they aren't there someone will chip in and give you the link. This will allow you to trace color code wires and figure out what they are and where they go. Once we know the color codes we can help you figure this out. Hoses not connected could be the emissions stuff if the bike was originally a California model. We usually plug that stuff up or take it off. 6: As others have posted....spray water around the intake boots slowly. Little shots...looking for a leak. The rpms will change and that's the leak. 7: Clip those plug wires at the coil ends. Mine were green with corrosion for about 1/4 inch! There is an O ring around the wire end and a nut that screws on to the coil. The O ring compresses and holds the cable inside the coil. There is a sharp point inside where the wire goes in, so push the wire in firmly. So the coil nut goes on the end of the wire followed by the O ring. This way when you seat the wire inside the coil, then push the nut and O ring in until you can screw the O ring onto the end of the coil compressing the O ring holding the wire inside. Whew. BTW, the front coils are hard to get to but I found by taking off some stuff on the sides and turning the bars, I was able to reach in and get one coil. Repeat on other side. rears were easier. Most of this stuff is easily found in older posts, in the tech section or in the manuals. 8: OH...while you are looking into the throat of the carbs checking the slides and diaphragms....spray some carb cleaner into the carbs while she's running. Keep her revving and spray. 9: Put some Seafoam into the gas tank...and run that stuff in the gas for a while. Will eventually help clean the carbs. Only carb cleaner will get the hard stuff but Seafoam helps. Test one thing at a time and enjoy the learning process. These V4's are really easy to maintain once you get them back on there feet! Keep us posted...
  20. Shoot...looks like an RSV to me. But you guys have more experience than I so I'll bow to your knowledge...
  21. I was looking for rides around my area and came across this one. Not only is it nice, but the very 1st vehicle seen as the movie opens, looks like a silver RSV! Any of our members do Zion in 2012 and ride a silver RSV? If yes, you are on this video! I still framed it a few times...sure looks like a V4!
  22. Wellllllll....(spoken like Chickenman)..... Looks like the Southeast and soon...Northeast is getting or about to get some more weather! Everytime I see that, I feel it's my duty to get out and ride....with picture or two of course! Today, came down from Phoenix on the RSV...but took one of the back ways. This time through the town of Maricopa. Used to be a cute little town with rich history...now it's a bedroom community for Phoenix...with history if you care to look. 4 lane divided to a nice 2 lane through farms and desert. Could even smell the cows! They even have a working Amtrak station! This observation car used to be the train station for many years. Now they have a drab building.... 75 degrees with cool wind. Stunning day in the farms and desert of Arizona.... This weekend will be at the lake....I'll try and remember to get some pics for ya'all....
  23. Yea...I looked my shift shaft over but couldn't figure out how to get to that thing. Anyone have any ideas for snyper316 and I? But I'm also going to attack the stator wires anyway...when I get back down. Brought the RSV home to work on her for a few days. Then I'll bring the VR back down and go back to work on her.
  24. Hit ebay looking for a switch. Pinwall cycles has a good rep for parts. Then get with Dion and get a bypass harness made. That will keep what small load there is off the switch. While you are in the area taking out the old switch, might want to look and see if you can put some heat wrap around switch in a way that wont interfere with bike running and steering. Something to protect the switch if heat and moisture is an issue. Just thinking out loud here....
×
×
  • Create New...