videoarizona

VStar 950 Tourer. Sold it. Wish I hadn't!!

After you have checked out the tire/rim on the front as Carl suggested, might want to throw in more beads. I'm not sure 1 0z is enough, especially if the tire wasn't mounted properly...ie...light spot on tire matched to the valve stem. Good to hear about the horn!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/83-93-Yamaha-Venture-XVZ12-1200-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Assembly-3DP-25870-00-00/152956297650?fits=Make%3AYamaha%7CModel%3AVenture+Royale&epid=1711868277&hash=item239ce7e1b2:g:FVAAAOSwrBdatElu This is for an 83-85 so it may not fit. But clutch MC's are out there for 86-89's for under $100...and in good shape too. Posted this just to give you an idea....plus maybe a member has one extra floating around.

Thank you! And so will yours when you get done. Here is a picture of the first time I took the rear end apart to grease the rear end and found a broken drive piece....Someone on the forum called the position "Kneeling". The front wheel off and the bike resting on the front forks. This gave me room to take off the rear wheel and get in there and clean and grease... I can't believe I did this with very little knowledge of this bike...

Side panels simply pop off. Held on by three plastic male thingies that force fit into 3 rubber grommets...and one rubber band on the bottom. I don't have a picture but maybe someone does and they can post it here. Brake light switch - simply unplug the connector and test switch with an ohm meter. If the switch is working, then trace the wiring...you are looking for a broken wire. Fuse info is found in the manual. Both the owners manual and the service manual are available in the 1st gen tech section as others have mentioned. They are free and worth their weight in gold on these bikes. I printed out the fuse info when I first got the bike and taped it under the false fuel cover. The main fuse should be to the left of the battery with a spare fuse holder right next to it. As stated...original horns do not have a relay. If someone put a larger horn on then the switch should be energizing a relay and you just have to find where the wires and relay are. I mounted my relay and wiring next to the battery....maybe they sold you the scoot without the horn??? Seat comes off with 2 bolts, one on each side in the middle of the seat underneath as shown on the video. These bikes are very easy to work on...they appear complicated but in reality are far easier than most bikes out there. The 1st gen Ventures, like yours, are almost bullet proof. They also require little maintenance once you get the previous owners issues put to rest as well as clean up the fuel and electrical systems from almost 30 years of possible neglect. My 89 was bone stock when I got her and she ran beautifully and still does. Since then I've added LED lights, a loud horn, and a R6 rear brake caliper for extra rear braking. I've done all the work myself with limited tools, money and time. I've never found the bike to be beyond my limited knowledge and experience and have relied heavily on the talent and knowledge on the forum to help me when I found myself over my head. In other words, take your time and enjoy the experience. Don't shotgun your maintenance...one thing at a time. You will get her where you want her and you will find yourself riding a very fast and nimble sport touring bike you can take anywhere. Thank you for keeping us posted...and let's see some pictures when you can! my 89...

sorry...couldn't resist...

Thought I would share some thoughts after this morning's ride on the 89 VR from Phoenix down to Green Valley... My 4 year old Shinko 230 Tourmasters are really holding up well. Still look great and handle well. Comfortable tires, for sure. Rotella T6 oil was just used on an oil change. I've noticed the valves are a bit noisier (5-40wt synthetic vs 20-50wt dino maybe?) and she sure shifts slicker than....(insert your own word here) And I didn't fix that pesky leak. I thought maybe that was the case when I got to Phoenix and she marked her spot. Pic is of sunrise off of I-10 about 1/3rd of the way down. Crisp morning with cool temps and warm sun!

They sure look like the right ones for the swap. Measure the mounting holes. If they are 100mm apart, they are good to go. Oh...I believe they bolt up as is on the 1st gens, but you need to take off the caliper holder on the 2nd gens. Correct me, someone, if I'm wrong... The attached file is a pdf from Gary Mace....includes pics... R1_Swap.pdf

Ideas: Check the start switch.. Make sure it pops all the way out. Lights come on only when switch is released at end of travel. Dirty or corrosion. WD40 is a temp fix. Check emergency stop switch on right handlebar. Wiggle it...dirty or corrosion. Check ignition switch....wiggle it when running and see if lights come back. Usually not a problem on a1st gen. Follow diagnostic procedure in Manual to check fan switch... Right side above motor. Radiator drain plug at bottom.... Do not overtighten!!

I see the Boss beat me to the response! But yes, the ignition switch could be heating up. Or is corroded or dirty. Intermittants of any type are not easy to deal with.... Just don't shotgun it. One thing at a time which sounds like what you are doing. Good luck... Good idea on another fuel pump. The points on the Chinese units are the weak part. In fact, the points on all of the fuel pumps in this generation of v4's are weak. My RSV included. I did the ignition bypass on my RSV which was a known issue. Not many complaints about RSTDs..... But worth a good hard look.

Gabby, can't help you in ignition switch testing. It would be possible to temporarily wire the fuel pump directly to the battery as you suggested, but you would lose the safety features built in to bike. First, I would suggest you check the gas tank and see if the vent is plugged. When it does again, take off gas cap. If a vacuum is present (you will hear the whoosh of air) then the tank vent is plugged. The vent and the fuel pump are the two issues I'm aware of as possible issues....

My Walther PK 380 loves that Russian ammo! The white box winchester jams every time in 2 out of 3 clips. Checked spring length and tension of clips and they are the same. Go figure!!

If you loosen the 2 clamps that hold the clutch line to the frame, move the electrical stater wires out of the way, remove the rear cover, you should be able to unbolt the slave and push it down out of the way. If you see oil in the recess where the slave was bolted, then the seal around that clutch shaft is probably leaking. There is a guide and a seal. I may have the same problem as I couldn't find any leakage when I took mine apart a couple of weeks ago. As MiCarl said... The slave is sealed. I put a wood block between clutch handle and grip so I don't accidentally pull clutch lever. I'll get the VR back home next week for extended work... Chasing that pesky leak!!! Good luck.

I have Progressive. Have 100/300k with zero deductible. Collision/uninsured/underinsured. Full coverage. 89 VR and 05 RSV Through USAA...$495/YR. IF PAID in full. I think that's the best deal I found for Arizona. But I no longer live in Phoenx... So my rates went down.

Here ya go: 2 links that show jump[ering the CMU if you want to convert to all LED, and jumpering the RLU if you want to stop the annoying warnings when you switch to an LED headlight... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?129385-1st-Gen-LED-Headlight http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?92274-How-do-you-quot-Jumper-the-CMU-quot-for-LED-s-bulbs-to-prevent-the-warning-light-coming-on

It worked for me....

RD have a safe trip! OH...teachers...yea they never know when to quit working. A friend of mine's wife kept going until she realized the bennies were not keeping up with her years and the school district wasn't going to get any better. She finally quit after 35 years. She's mad she didn't leave earlier....just a thought. Teaching is great but not rewarding financially anymore...

Thanks...don't know where it was purchased as it was a gift. But this is a favorite place of guys I know... https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/index.php

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?43027-1983-1985-Throttle-Side-Electrical-Switch-Disassembly-and-Cleaning http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?43025-1983-1985-Clutch-Side-Electrical-Switch-Disassembly-and-Cleaning Scroll down to the pdf link. Download pdf. open and print...

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?43027-1983-1985-Throttle-Side-Electrical-Switch-Disassembly-and-Cleaning Scroll down to the pdf link. Download pdf. open and print...

From another forum... The gear indicator operates by grounding power from the CMS at the gear selector switch, through that spring loaded brass contact point, that rotates across the inside of the switch. If you had the switch connector unplugged, was the CMS side of the connector kept far enough away from metal that there could be no grounding occuring, giving you false gear indication? To test the CMS, with the harness unhooked at the switch end ground each of the 6 wires (neutral+5 gears) from the CMS one at a time....you should see a different gear display on every wire. If you do the CMS is working right. If it doesn't......check out the CMS board further. If wiring tests fine ..then something is still bad at the switch end.

I too love to travel and have over 200K on my Yukon XL crossing the country multiple times, visiting friends and enjoying the food and flavor of America. I'm concerned about my butt ! The Yukon is comfy...the RSV is comfy but not sure I can take the heat of summer all day long. After 40 plus years in Arizona, I would think heat would not be an issue for me, but the older I get the more it bothers me... Four Corners Ride...now that would be a challenge, for sure! Thanks for the encouragement...

Sounds interesting. That does sound like a good spot and you can probably pack clothes and stuff on top of tank as well. I'm toying with the idea of doing a long distance ride this summer. The wifemate has given the go ahead knowing this may be my last chance as age is creeping up! I rode across country in the younger days and on a smaller bike...but...grins! So I bow to your superior knowledge of LD riding! Congrats on all your Iron Butt's! I was thinking of carrying a small gas can in one of the saddlebags. But most of my riding would be near or on major highways so gas shouldn't be a problem. Even in the Four Corners area, there's gas nearby if you plan your stops. I was concerned about going across the New Mexico desert on rt 70, but have found enough stops to make it without a problem...and that's assuming around 35mpg's with reserve (keeping the scoot under the sound barrier as well!).

Thinking out loud.... The starter may not be bad. Check ground and power lead...by check I mean take off the connections, clean and put back on. If that doesn't help then take starter off and take it apart. There is a thread around here, I think by cowpuc, describing how to clean the interior parts of the starter. They do get gummed up with brush dust and stuff....If that doesn't work then borrow a starter and try it or buy another. If the tank sitting overnight doesn't work....try taking off the overflow hose at each carb, put the little red tube in the nozzle of your favorite carb cleaner and spray up into the overflow and into the bowl. Get a good shot in there. Let it sit for at least an hour. Carb cleaner (or equivalent) is the only stuff that will clean up hard deposits. That should get into the main body of the carb and help. Seafoam and such will help keep the system clean after you get the old, hard deposits out. Keep an eye on the fuel filter. If the bad gas has been in tank for a long time, the filter may get clogged up. I always use the kill switch. It's a habit for me and always has been. It makes no difference to the bike. But to me, the starting procedure and shut down procedure are rote. I don't want to start with kickstand down or leave gas on with the 2nd gen and risk engine issues. So I have always done things the same way. There is a reason the military gets you to do things over and over. And in this case, I agree. As far as dash lights and such. Suggest you clean up the fuse area. Even if you keep the old fuses (as I have), if you clean up the connections, then you know they are good. The dash comes out easily and you can check bulbs on the bench. While there, lube the speedo cable....and clean the dash connectors. The rest is nothing more than tracing hot and ground leads until you find a corroded or bad connection and making repair. Keep us posted...oh take pics!

Hey guys and gals.....been thinking about a road trip or 3. Haven't decided whether to stress the ole bod with the summer heat on a scoot or drive the truck. Regardless....was trying to lay out one of the trips in Google Maps and got really tired of waiting for map to respond. BTW, I'm on a 50mb/s cable connection using an older Win XP machine with a fast processor, fast ram and SSD drives. I don't think the computer is the problem as I can see the network connection flayling away as I click on destinations to estimate each days trip. Got tired of waiting for the sluggish responses. So...what map programs do youse all like for planning trips. Something I can use to not only plan, but print out each day's run as well as carry a copy on the Android tablet or phone. TIA, d