videoarizona

Geesh...just when I was about to throw in the towel... I run across a picture of @VentureFar 's 2nd gen. He has lights mounted to what looks like his fender bolts. Must have a a home made type mount to stick them forward enough. Gotta ask: Neil....how are the 2 lights mounted down low on your forks???

You will love the 230's on your 1st gen. My 89 has had them for 4 years now and I still love them! Have about 5K miles on them and the rear is about half done. Front still looks great! I keep them at 38-40 front and 42 rear.

Is this what you are looking for? https://www.bikebandit.com/tires-tubes/motorcycle-tires/dunlop-american-elite-motorcycle-tire/p/22634?m=147009

Well steve, that was a good idea...thank you. Unfortunately, I had a friend come over to see what I was up to, we were discussing your idea. He noticed something that I didn't...The little air deflectors on either side of the shocks will hit the lights if the shocks move more than a few inches. I bounced the bike up and down and he confirmed...With about 5 inches of travel on the front shocks, I would have to cut off about 3 inches of the deflectors. So...that's out. But thanks, Steve.

Good to hear things are coming alone on your 89. 1: You don't have to replace the silica...just bake it in the oven under low heat until it's dry. I forget the color when dry (pink?). but that's all you need to do. Be careful taking the canister apart..clean everything. 2: When using the CLASS system, you need to be aware of a few things: a. bike should be on center stand with no weight on bike (so to speak. Sidestand is OK) b. Only works with key in "ACC" position. Not adjustable when riding. c. Always adjust front first then rear. Other wise high pressure air from rear can damage the front fork seals. 3: If you have inspected all lines for leaks and still have issues with rear, then you need to download the service manual on this site for the 1st Gen Venture. You will probably need to take apart the solenoid for the rear (I don't remember which is which of the 3) and clean it out..checking for bad o rings. Clean them all. 4: The rear shock may be bad, but I doubt it as these shocks seem to be almost bullet proof. 5: On the left side down low by the passenger foot rest there is a damper switch. Changes the damping effect of the rear shock. Never "spin" that thing from one position to the other. Always go one step at a time. You are raising/lowering a little "jet" (for lack of a better word) that controls the flow rate of the oil. That's about it. Other than electrical errors which will occur at the head unit from time to time due to flexing the big white connector that connects to the control unit...all repairs are usually straightforward. Brilliant little system...but slow to work so have patience. These were built in the early days of computers... Hope this helps Yikes. I see Rick beat me to the keyboard. Well now you have 2 sets of answers saying the same thing!

HMMM..sounds to easy...have to think about it and make a trip to the hardware store...

Welcome to the forum! J&M makes some headsets for half helmets. You then buy the lower cord to fit your bike's connectors... http://www.jmcorp.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=HS-BCD291-HHU-XHO

I know you checked the wires with water and by "hand" (grins), but have you taken the wires out of the coils and looked at the ends? Last resort...have you looked at the component side of the TCI? Not much else....I think you've covered most of everything...

Update: Well those beautiful Kuryakin bolts don't work. I cut them to size and went to put them in...they fit just fine...but...you can't tighten them down! The difference is these bolts are made to go on a fender that does NOT have a nut welded on it like ours. I can't tighten them as their isn't any room with the bolt head recessed into the lower fork. I thought about taking a large drill bit and reaming out the cutaway for the bolt head...making it a larger diameter to get a socket in there....but not thinking this is a good idea. Maybe it doesn't matter..I don't want to weaken the lower fork leg by making that hole any bigger. Am I nuts or should I get the drill out and have fun??? I doubt I could have gotten a nut behind there as the clearance isn't much with the rim and tire there....But it's to late anyway since the bolt has been cut to fit. That's what I get for reading the instructions: #1 , cut bolt to size. OK..back to square 1. Guess the lights are going on the top of the lower fairing. Will look interesting for sure...about what those deer whistles look like that I've seen on some RSV's. Except these lights are chromed! LOL!

A couple more things to think about. Steering head bearings a touch loose will cause sloppy handling. The bearings can look good but most shops won't take the time to adjust them as it does require some effort to get the front end apart to do a simple job. Takes the right tool as well if you follow the manual. Yes on the rear tire...look it over carefully. Worn front shocks and worn or dry/misadjusted swing arm bearings/bushings can also cause wallowing. I'm going with the front forks and tires as the most likely. QUESTION: Do the side cases need to come off for a shop to swap the rear tire, or can the wheel be removed from on a lift without removing the bags? (Just need to know if I will have to empty them beforehand.) Yes. Plus the right muffler. The rear brace under the rear fender comes off easily and helps a lot as well. If you take off both bags it really does make a difference in getting that axle nut off and on. Lots of torque needed! Pics and a write up available on this site. You will need a lift adapter (sold by a member) or some 2x4's will work in a pinch. I recommend the lift adapter cause it is solid! You need to get the scoot up in the air! I have Road Kings and like them. Nice rumble at idle but not to loud at 75mph. You will need to make a bracket unless the pipes you have on now have a bracket that works.... Agreed. I just completed a 4K plus mile trip on my 05 RSV and I was comfortable all the way!

Yep, good power band. Just remember these bikes love to rev and both 4th and 5th gear are overdrives. IE, in heavy winds you can cruise all day at 70mph in 4th gear! Carb sync first then look for exhaust leaks. Air entering exhaust will cause some popping. It's normal to have on decel if the bike is set to the factory lean specs. I added 1 1/2 inch risers to my bars. Helped a lot! I left the heel shifter on...even though it gets in the way. I like that I can brace my left foot heel against it. I ended up adding some highway pegs on the engine guards. Lets me stretch out. Suggest you try running within 2 pounds of tire max. And no air in front forks. If she wallows in turns on the front, then you need to change out the fork springs...probably shot. Go with progressives. I'm still running stock up front, run 38-40 pounds air in front tire and 0 pressure in shocks. The undulation over cracks is the way some tires are, especially the front tire. All you can do is find the right pressure for your tire. My Shinkos need 38-40 pounds in the front to glide over all that stuff. Rotors warped. 2 finger braking? Probably not. Change out the pads before you do the caliper swap. That much pressure to activate is usually caused by pads, old brake lines or dirty calipers. The caliper swap should fix as well. Do change out the master cylinder as well so you have a matched front braking system. LOL! Yep. When I lowered the front end, I turned the air stems out a bit to make it easier to get to. Do a search for lowering the front end. Lots of info including pics. I did it 2 years ago instead of changing front tire to a 130. I wanted to keep the stability of the front end in high winds, etc.. It's easy to do...lowers the front about 1 inch...gives you better low speed handling. I can help you with phone and pics if you decide to go that way. I would recommend it with your short stature. Be even easier to flat foot and no loss of clearance. See picture above for forks raised up with valves turned out. You won't need a tach, (grins), just rev the heck out of her! See Nanci at acehighleathers.com . She made a gas cap cover for me that looks cool! I wanted to get a matching tank bib from here but just haven't been able to afford it. Nanci is a member here and has done some fantastic work...all handmade! Hmmm..if it's losing speed then releasing: I would look at vacuum leak...or miss-adjusted throttle cables. The CC will release if the bike speed gets 5mph lower than the set speed...a safety thing I think. If you are running Metz's in the rear as well...I would look at the tires. 2 things I noticed when I had Metz's... cupping in rear after about 5K miles and a humming/whine noise on corners. Tire related. Yep..Speedodrd Easy to install and program. http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59 hope this helps...

I went looking in the parts diagram and couldn't find out if that large hose in the middle that connects to the bridge between the two halves is the crankcase vent hose. If it is, then I would say the oil is coming from the crankcase from being slightly to full and running down the freeway at high speed. Or the vent system is blocked some how. The reason for more on the left than right is probably due to the bike being on the side stand and the oil from the hose is moving with gravity to the left.

Hi Mike, First, welcome to the Nuthouse! The winglets can be removed by removing the front fairing. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?494-Splitting-the-Fairing You will see the screws holding those clear plastic pieces to the inner fairing. Know that you will be increasing the turbulence into your chest and helmet areas by taking these little guys off...but you will get more air! The noise you hear when cornering is usually caused by tire wear. Some tires do this when worn, others do not. It can also be caused by bearings, etc., but most of the time, it's the tire. To get to know your 2nd Gen RSV, look in the forums section pertaining to the tech library, 2nd Gen and Royal Star technical library. Also, suggest you join up! Best $12/year you will ever spend! Welcome again!

Maybe that's a question to ask the group, like survey.

I had a Chrysler Cordoba with the lean burn V8. I floored it going up a hill, crested the hill and a cop was sitting at the bottom with radar. That was the excuse I gave him. It was the truth. That engine needed some high speed burn to run right. I still got the ticket. Now back to our program... My vote is for exhaust leak for the popping. In my book, those plugs need replacing.... way to lean... gotta solve the excessive popping.

Zoey, Kuryakin makes some nice mounts and adapters in chrome or black to mount things just about anywhere. My first guess would be to find a place near the engine guard...or on the guard and mount there. Run a relay off the battery to the horn...trigger the relay from the original horn circuit. Leave the original horn on the scoot and operational. Gives you a louder horn plus stock. Most of us have gone with the Stebel type or The Hellas. The Stebels (I have 2) have both worked great and so far for about 4 years on one and 2 years on the other. The Bolo's and others are copycats of the Stebels (or vice versa) and work just as well. Hope this helps.

Maybe next time I'll ride the 1st Gen up! Then we shall see! Grins! Yes, we did have a good time. I miss you both... Well...if you can make a trip out in the Fall when we can ride around here and it's not 100 plus degrees....I'll show you some southern Arizona roads to Bisbee, or Boot Hill or...??? Or....both of you fly out and hop on my 1st Gen...I'll hop on the 2nd gen and we can tour the area in the Fall....2 scoots...no waiting! My home can be your home base....

Hmmm...just went completely through my phone and computer...don't see anything like that. Can you describe the picture better? PM me with more details...

I agree, Please don't sell! Unless it's to me! Grins.... Very nice...always loved those early 4 cycle Yamahas.....sigh. Good job!

I wonder if that's the difference. The caps are rated at 5K ohms, and the wires maybe to. 5 plus 5 = 10. So I will have to test both together and see what I have before I go buy a new set.

Really? My manual said 5K ohms. Well...I'll have to double check. Thanks for the heads up... The service manual says 10K....now where did I read about 5K??? I'll keep checking. Went looking through all my manuals for both bikes...and they all say the same. So my mistake....10k ohms it is. Sorry guys! (I have no idea where I got the 5k ohm idea. But that's what I've had in my 89 for 4 years!) Ah found it.....in the parts that I got from a dealer up north...they listed the wires for the 1st gen Venture then a note showing the resistance for each of the wires. These were supposedly factory wires.... Guess I'd better find another set for my 89!

HAHAHA!! Well first time I hit the limiter hard so that didn't help. But second time you pulled away, yep, but not as much as I thought would happen. I still had both saddlebags full plus the scoot weight is heavier...maybe another 40lbs of gear and the 2nd gen weighs 867 wet? So over 100 pounds difference. And then there's the gearing. My 1st gen gearing is absolutely perfect for that bike. The 2nd Gen...nope. Only good for hitting the slab at 80mph with 2 up, loaded. But it was fun!! Whoo Hoo! I wonder how we would have topped out? I would have to keep it in 4th as 5th is to much of an overdrive to pull against the wind. 4th might be limited to 6K rpm limiter but still...be interesting, for sure.

If the fiberglass has a gel coat on it...as long as that isn't worn down...you should be able to use any good cleaner for fiberglass and some household cleaners like Oxyclean, Bar Keepers, or any boat cleaners, etc.. Without a gel coat..test in a small area. I'm not knowledgeable on trailers and such. Still learning as we are going in that direction, too. With my boat, I've found the best cleaners on my 1974 hull are not boat related. Oxyclean and products like the Zep cleaner will work best. The Zep should be your best bet to clean the grime and the oxidation. Test in an area....dilute, spray on and give it a few minutes to clean...keeping it wet with occasional squirts of the diluted product. Then scrub and rinse. Let us know how that works...

Looks like an interesting bike. Their answer to the Vmax. Seat height about the same as the Venture. Lighter weight. Biggest difference I can see is it's a cruiser. not a touring bike. More wind in your face (good), but more buffeting too coming up from below. If you want a cruiser style ride..then, yea...go for it. If it's in good shape you shouldn't have much problems with it. A quick search shows some places on line "say" they carry parts for it....don't know till you try and order some. But I would check out the bike....it's shaft drive so you know what to look for there. Good luck whichever way you go.

Interesting case. This is my recommendation: 1: Change plugs anyway. After 5K mile trip. Use only NGK's. Gap at .032. 2: Pull plug wires out of coils, snip off end and re-insert. If in doubt of age (see leakage test in another post), throw away...new wires are cheap on line. Exact replacements available for early Ventures. Mine are 5K ohms resistance for my 89. Don't know if your earlier model is different. I've seen some posts that say 10K ohms. Maybe that's for the 83 and 84 years. But not for the 1st Gen mk2's. 3: Pull stator cover off (will need gasket) and check pickup coil. Clean coil area. Check gap. (just make sure coil is mounted solid) Check wires. re-check connector and wires where they come out of case. Seal well. (I doubt this step...but maybe as a last resort) 4: Did you check the pressure sensor? page 7-32 on my 86-93 manual gives the test. Your manual may be different. Output voltage around 2 volts dc with 12 volts input and normal atmospheric pressure. This partially determines your advance. 5: Might want to check your tip over sensor to make sure it's tight on frame (not bouncing around) and clean connectors. 6: Did you check timing with your light? Easy to do, takes only a few minutes. Make sure you turn motor by hand in proper direction. (counter clockwise??? I forgot) This should never change unless something inside has worn out or broke. Assuming the TCI is working...and you haven't mentioned checking the component side of the board yet....those resistors. Try these above things before you buy another TCI unit. Example; This wire set(for the VMax 1200) would work as they are the proper resistance for my 89 (5k ohm) and they have the NGK caps...which I prefer and work well with our scoots. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spark-Plug-Wires-Cables-Set-Red-Yamaha-VMax-VMX12-Max-1200/263768496948?hash=item3d69d3db34:g:~C8AAOSwjqVZKmD8#vi-ilComp There's not much else to check...but after a long trip...connectors get lose or dirty, etc.. I'm going to think the plugs are your culprit. My RSV has developed an interesting lope at idle (like a cam lope) after my 4K trip. (Could be same problem you have...I just haven't checked anything as it runs so good right now). I'm going to put in new plugs just for grins....I figure these little plugs do get a workout on these high rpm motors...so it's cheap insurance... Hope this helps,