videoarizona

All makes sense. Since my bars and idiot light don't seem to come on before I run out of main tank (no error codes either), I'll just go with the usable main tank is 4.5 gallons and leave it at that. Seems consistent with what i get when I fill to the bottom of the filler tube.

Wellllllll.... What you just described is what happens to me on my 05. I get to around 2 bars, go a few miles, and she runs out of gas. But I don't get any red light or reserve warning. I simply switch to reserve and continue. I put it about same amount...4.5 - 4.8 gallons. So I NEVER leave the petcock on reserve. that's the only salvation I have. I'm not going to push that scoot any further than I have to! just my .02's worth...

Sorry Steven, I forgot you have the heel/toe mod forward controls. So I deleted my post above. I was explaining further..but that isn't valid now. In your original post, diagram on post 14...where you have a blue arrow you drew to indicate rotation, that is what I was referring to. By rotating that little lever in the linkage, you can easily reverse the shift pattern. I think you will need to make a plate that will allow you to get the proper rotation like @cowpuc was saying in his post to you. Shouldn't be too hard. Or go back to normal shift controls. My apologies....I completely forgot about your controls.

Nothing to my Ventures. I'm out of town. But do like my Kuryakin luggage rack. Held the Kuryakin bag on top filled with stuff on my trip with no problems at all!

Reverse shifting. I though you were able to flop that linkage upside down. If I'm thinking about it right, it should be easy. Don't have to take anything off. Just make sure your shift shaft is indexed to the shifter, (The slot of the shaft is indexed to the dot on the shifter) then disconnect...move the assembly upside down and reconnect. Didn't we talk about this earlier or am I "out to lunch"....again!

At 17 years old, I was 136 pounds and 5'11". Can you say skinny and wiry? A friend took me up to a sand pit behind his camp. Handed me his fathers 1911 .45, from WW1. I put 2 hands on it and it still almost knocked me on my butt! Haven't fired one since! Was scary for this skinny kid.... For carrying, I have a Walther PK380. No kick and good grouping with my arthritis hands....

Don't notice that here. With the heat, I ride early morning or after the sun goes down. Bugs come out then as well......silly buggers!

I don't nail the throttle to often on my 89 and have over 4K miles on my 230 with about 1/2 wear showing. Road surface, heat, speed and torque all contribute to rear tire wear. Obviously, now that she is running, you are really enjoying your scoot!

Look what I found.....from an 83...wonder if it's the same... https://www.ebay.com/itm/83-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-XVZ1200-1200-LEFT-HANDLEBAR-CONTROL-SWITCH-/381355474415?vxp=mtr&hash=item58ca8ebdef

I'm running stock bars and 1.5 inch risers. Don't know anything about RSTD bars....please explain what the differences are...Thanks.

Hot? Geesh, youse guys are wimps.... Phoenix is looking at 115 next week. Normal stuff. Which is why I run 20-50wt Yamalube in my scoots. Except for this last run across country on the RSV into cooler weather in June....I ran Rotella T6 20-40wt. Time to change oil...it's hot! BTW, I'm thankful for the discussion about the TC. I do like that scoot. But a travel trailer comes first....then maybe a 3/4ton Sierra HD diesel... So thanks and keep your observations coming!

Hmmmmm..

Yes...all lights, brake, stop, turn and headlight circuits go through the CMU (I think?). There are reed switches in the CMU..the purpose being to warn you of a dead bulb. For LED usage, they need to be jumpered. Under normal use, if the bulb and wiring is good, then I would suspect solder joint for the taillight/brake light circuit needs fixing, probably at the reed switch on one or both sides of circuit board. First check the connector at the CMU and make sure the brake wire is good, then go inside and look for bad solder joint. On both CMU's...as that was one of my guesses on your original CMU issue...a bad solder joint. Search site for pictures and explanation. It's easy to do now that you know how to get there.

Nanci does great work!

I still firmly believe that the police should never accept the car driver's statement "I didn't see the motorcycle", as a valid excuse. Scary...

Now take your computer apart and resolder the joints...then you will probably have a good spare! In a previous post there is a link with pictures...

Good to hear. I don't worry about longevity. I figure by the time the tires wear out, it's time to take apart the rear end anyway and grease it up! if i make 8K on rear, I'll be happy. I've already taken the rear end apart to clean and grease...but rear tire was still good. I was spending most of my time on the 950 and the RSV. With 950 gone, I'll be adding miles on the 89!

Regarding choke: Take the switch apart. Should be a couple of screws underneath/behind and separate it from bars. I don't know if the choke is a part of the switch or separate like the throttle. I would think it would be separate and work just like the throttle...but I don't know. Just go slowly...it will make itself known as you go. If they are together, there maybe some screws inside the switch that will separate it from the electrical side.

Sounds good. I like the idea of dual compound. I'm the opposite of your thinking, I prefer traction over longevity. To my way of thinking....the hard compounds on the long last tires can't be as good in rain. NASCAR/ Forumla 1 racing has proved this with the tires they use. Different compounds for weather. The downside is soft tires don't last. I'm an advocate for Shinkos due to their traction and ride. The 230's are softest but are excellent riding tires. The 777HD's are stronger and harder but still ride very nicely. No squirming, etc.. My 230's on my 89 are 4 years old but only about 5K miles...rear looks about half gone. The 777HD's on the 05 RSV were fine until a nail got my rear after 3K miles. It looked brand new. Rats. As far as tire changing....here's a thought for you. The rear end needs lubrication of the drive shaft and splines. You are going to be taking the rear apart anyway....and most of us do that maintenance when we go to change the tires. So...what's the difference? Watching @cowpuc change out my tire....(he makes it look easy!) gives me the confidence that i can do that myself as well. So suggest you buy the tire that fits your riding style and budget. Then forget everything else but riding!

here ya go.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-ROYAL-STAR-VENTURE-TOUR-DELUXE-TINTED-LOWER-WIND-STR1D6088000/392068073682?epid=1823347167&hash=item5b491408d2%3Ag%3Ax9cAAOSwEeFVLEds&_sacat=0&_nkw=yamaha+royal+staqr+venture+lower+vents&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

Sorry...I'm not near the bike so I can't take any pictures. But Bob has it right. The vertical round bar holds the vent and allows you to move it in/out. At the bottom it's connected to a flat bar that runs across the engine guard. Another smaller bar mounts opposite it and is bolted to it. At first glance, I didn't think it would hold more than 5 minutes....so I put the strongest tie wrap on it. But it's held up for over a year now without troubles. They were expensive...I think I paid $160 for mine brand new. But they are worth it. The build is top quality befitting a Yamaha product. And with a slight adjustment, mine is easy to change position but still holds it's position despite very heavy winds. I can even change it while on the move....but don't let anyone know I do this! I'll be home next week. If you need a close up picture, just let me know. Found 2 that should help!

These helped a lot. 3 weeks on the road last month across country in the heat.....a godsend! Took a while to find though....I finally found mine at a dealer in Florida...was posted on Ebay.

Regarding jumpering the RLU....I found that my 89 must be different as I tried 3 different combinations of jumpers before I got everything to work. But I don't think that's your problem. I think the RLU is working and you may have a bad solder joint in the computer. I could be wrong so let's start over. Put the RLU back in. Download the PDF here for the switches on the handlebars....see if they are good and clean. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?43025-1983-1985-Clutch-Side-Electrical-Switch-Disassembly-and-Cleaning Next we will look at the CMS computer....a bad solder joint at the connector can cause the problems you are having... weird right? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?33328-Information-Display-Repair Last, go here and download the service stuff for your year. Maybe this will help follow the circuits... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42358-1st-Gen-Wiring-Schematics-1983-1993 finally, @cimmer posted the properr sequence for me to jumper my RLU.....(just in case I'm wrong!) +++++++++++++ "Looking over my RLU wires, I think the Green/White should be the Green/Red. My RLU doesn't have the G/W in its wiring harness but it does have a G/R. My high beams indicator does function properly and I dont have any alarms showing on the computer panel either. Also looking closing at the picture in post #1 of this tread, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...+lighting+unit , you can tell he actually used the Green/Red. Try that and see if that makes a difference for you. So connect the wires like this: Tie Green/Red + Blue/Black + Blue/White together. Tie Yellow/Green + Blue/Red together Tie Black + Light Green together" +++++++++++++ lets see if any of this helps.....