videoarizona

Crank the tire pressure to max? Will that flatten the sidewall a touch?

We are back in Southern Arizona. Around my house only 106 today. We left Phoenix at 115. That dry heat thing is for real. Can you imagine 100 degrees with 90% humidity? That's serious heat. I'll take 110 or under with less than 10% humidity and I'm happy. Unfortunately, it's now our monsoon season. So humidity is up, dew point is up and that lowers the heat. But the overall effect is worse than a dry June 110! But I look at this time of year as my "winter"...my non-riding season. Oh sure, I get out for a few hours from maybe 6am to 8am, once in a while. And that's enough for me. Most of the time, I do my annual maintenance on the scoots this time of year. Then I can ride the rest of the year....9 or 10 months. And that reminds me...next time in Phoenix, I need to dump the fuel for the sailboat motor. We won't be going back out until October...and that's too long for this crap gas we have to sit...

So far no...but my LED bulb is passive cooled...no fan.

All makes sense. Since my bars and idiot light don't seem to come on before I run out of main tank (no error codes either), I'll just go with the usable main tank is 4.5 gallons and leave it at that. Seems consistent with what i get when I fill to the bottom of the filler tube.

Wellllllll.... What you just described is what happens to me on my 05. I get to around 2 bars, go a few miles, and she runs out of gas. But I don't get any red light or reserve warning. I simply switch to reserve and continue. I put it about same amount...4.5 - 4.8 gallons. So I NEVER leave the petcock on reserve. that's the only salvation I have. I'm not going to push that scoot any further than I have to! just my .02's worth...

Sorry Steven, I forgot you have the heel/toe mod forward controls. So I deleted my post above. I was explaining further..but that isn't valid now. In your original post, diagram on post 14...where you have a blue arrow you drew to indicate rotation, that is what I was referring to. By rotating that little lever in the linkage, you can easily reverse the shift pattern. I think you will need to make a plate that will allow you to get the proper rotation like @cowpuc was saying in his post to you. Shouldn't be too hard. Or go back to normal shift controls. My apologies....I completely forgot about your controls.

Nothing to my Ventures. I'm out of town. But do like my Kuryakin luggage rack. Held the Kuryakin bag on top filled with stuff on my trip with no problems at all!

Reverse shifting. I though you were able to flop that linkage upside down. If I'm thinking about it right, it should be easy. Don't have to take anything off. Just make sure your shift shaft is indexed to the shifter, (The slot of the shaft is indexed to the dot on the shifter) then disconnect...move the assembly upside down and reconnect. Didn't we talk about this earlier or am I "out to lunch"....again!

At 17 years old, I was 136 pounds and 5'11". Can you say skinny and wiry? A friend took me up to a sand pit behind his camp. Handed me his fathers 1911 .45, from WW1. I put 2 hands on it and it still almost knocked me on my butt! Haven't fired one since! Was scary for this skinny kid.... For carrying, I have a Walther PK380. No kick and good grouping with my arthritis hands....

Don't notice that here. With the heat, I ride early morning or after the sun goes down. Bugs come out then as well......silly buggers!

I don't nail the throttle to often on my 89 and have over 4K miles on my 230 with about 1/2 wear showing. Road surface, heat, speed and torque all contribute to rear tire wear. Obviously, now that she is running, you are really enjoying your scoot!

Look what I found.....from an 83...wonder if it's the same... https://www.ebay.com/itm/83-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-XVZ1200-1200-LEFT-HANDLEBAR-CONTROL-SWITCH-/381355474415?vxp=mtr&hash=item58ca8ebdef

I'm running stock bars and 1.5 inch risers. Don't know anything about RSTD bars....please explain what the differences are...Thanks.

Hot? Geesh, youse guys are wimps.... Phoenix is looking at 115 next week. Normal stuff. Which is why I run 20-50wt Yamalube in my scoots. Except for this last run across country on the RSV into cooler weather in June....I ran Rotella T6 20-40wt. Time to change oil...it's hot! BTW, I'm thankful for the discussion about the TC. I do like that scoot. But a travel trailer comes first....then maybe a 3/4ton Sierra HD diesel... So thanks and keep your observations coming!

Hmmmmm..

Yes...all lights, brake, stop, turn and headlight circuits go through the CMU (I think?). There are reed switches in the CMU..the purpose being to warn you of a dead bulb. For LED usage, they need to be jumpered. Under normal use, if the bulb and wiring is good, then I would suspect solder joint for the taillight/brake light circuit needs fixing, probably at the reed switch on one or both sides of circuit board. First check the connector at the CMU and make sure the brake wire is good, then go inside and look for bad solder joint. On both CMU's...as that was one of my guesses on your original CMU issue...a bad solder joint. Search site for pictures and explanation. It's easy to do now that you know how to get there.

Nanci does great work!

I still firmly believe that the police should never accept the car driver's statement "I didn't see the motorcycle", as a valid excuse. Scary...

Now take your computer apart and resolder the joints...then you will probably have a good spare! In a previous post there is a link with pictures...

Good to hear. I don't worry about longevity. I figure by the time the tires wear out, it's time to take apart the rear end anyway and grease it up! if i make 8K on rear, I'll be happy. I've already taken the rear end apart to clean and grease...but rear tire was still good. I was spending most of my time on the 950 and the RSV. With 950 gone, I'll be adding miles on the 89!

Regarding choke: Take the switch apart. Should be a couple of screws underneath/behind and separate it from bars. I don't know if the choke is a part of the switch or separate like the throttle. I would think it would be separate and work just like the throttle...but I don't know. Just go slowly...it will make itself known as you go. If they are together, there maybe some screws inside the switch that will separate it from the electrical side.

Sounds good. I like the idea of dual compound. I'm the opposite of your thinking, I prefer traction over longevity. To my way of thinking....the hard compounds on the long last tires can't be as good in rain. NASCAR/ Forumla 1 racing has proved this with the tires they use. Different compounds for weather. The downside is soft tires don't last. I'm an advocate for Shinkos due to their traction and ride. The 230's are softest but are excellent riding tires. The 777HD's are stronger and harder but still ride very nicely. No squirming, etc.. My 230's on my 89 are 4 years old but only about 5K miles...rear looks about half gone. The 777HD's on the 05 RSV were fine until a nail got my rear after 3K miles. It looked brand new. Rats. As far as tire changing....here's a thought for you. The rear end needs lubrication of the drive shaft and splines. You are going to be taking the rear apart anyway....and most of us do that maintenance when we go to change the tires. So...what's the difference? Watching @cowpuc change out my tire....(he makes it look easy!) gives me the confidence that i can do that myself as well. So suggest you buy the tire that fits your riding style and budget. Then forget everything else but riding!

here ya go.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-ROYAL-STAR-VENTURE-TOUR-DELUXE-TINTED-LOWER-WIND-STR1D6088000/392068073682?epid=1823347167&hash=item5b491408d2%3Ag%3Ax9cAAOSwEeFVLEds&_sacat=0&_nkw=yamaha+royal+staqr+venture+lower+vents&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313