videoarizona

Found an older post I did. Don't know about detailed from me....But older posts combined have all the info to lower the front end. I'll see if I can find them, but a search using various front end terms like front forks, or, lower front end should do the trick. I just did mine again.. Lowered more, and it took less than 40 minutes seconds time around. Basically: 1: raise bike on lift. Use a brace on frame so engine parts not hurt. 2: take off front wheel, or not. You can push front end down both forks together or separately. If separate, then take off front fender. 2.5: remove top screws, one leftside, one right on back side of inner fairing. That allows removal of chrome plastic windshield trim and exposes windshield screws. 3: remove outer fairing,taking off three screws each side. Suggest you lay screws out in order so you know which ones go where. Last remove screw on bottom headlight trim. Hold fairing. 4: remove bars and hang up out of way. Take handlebar wires out of plastic hose on bars. 5: remove two bolts on side of headlight & two nuts behind headlight mount. 6: remove gas tank plastic cover and gas tank. Gets it out of way. Maybe do this one before #4 . 7: remove two bolts in front of triple tree that holds inner fairing to triple tree. 7.5 pull inner fairing forward about 5 inches and stuff a towel in that to hold it. Or I tied handlebars up and forward... Pulling inner fairing out of way. 8: remove stem nut from triple tree. 9: loosen 4 bolts, two on each side of triple tree. Side triple tree up and off. 10: lift off top fork covers. Mark forks tube at bottom of exposed area so you have a reference. 11: loosen two bolts on each side of lower triple tree..careful here... Forks may move! 12: raise field tubes up in lower triple tree about one inch. Maybe sure both are even. Put back together.

Welcome to the nuthouse! As Jeff said, get a copy of ride like a pro. What Jerry does with a big bike is outstanding to watch. Lower the front end by 1 inch will help with the slow speed maneuvering as well as make it a tad easier to plant both feet firmly. Remember to point the shraeder valve on the top of the fork tubes out at an angle so it will be easier to put air in the front forks. Do this once you get the fork tube at the height you want then twist it to where you want the valve to sit. tighten the bolts and done. Also, pick up a small air pump. The kind that doesn't release air as you unscrew the valve. You can only put a max of 7lbs in each front shock...the hand pump is the best way to do that. Then just go out and ride it. Take your time and stay away from gravel and dirt until you gain confidence. The RSV is a forgiving scoot but it is heavy so practice. Make sure you let the engine rev. These V4's love to rev. I rarely shift into 5th gear unless I'm going over 65mph. You can ride all day in 4th gear at 70mph and the engine likes it. So don't treat it like a typical Vtwin. BTW, I loved my 650 VStar Classic. Great bike to scoot around town on! I was nervous when I got the RSV. But now it's like second nature. You will enjoy putting miles on that bike! Lots of tech info on this site...enjoy the search!

Chief, you are being unfair to this forum. Sure we wanted the V4, for obvious reasons, but the fact is Yamaha chose otherwise. We can live with that. I've been reading the posts on the StarBike Forum and can say you guys weren't being nice over there either. So let's not throw stones, OK? I personally think the new Venture is fantastic. Waiting for some cool weather to get another ride and decide whether to get the new Transcontinental. Let's smile and ride....

Puc, Just got back in town myself. The last 2 weeks running out to Knoxville to pick up a new to me travel trailer! Just got home an hour ago. Glad you both are OK and so sorry to hear Tweaksis is hurting! I'm going to hit the showers and take a nap. Tired after going across this wonderful country and some truly crappy roads! My Yukon was not happy! Later and welcome home!

Recommend you do both.... Lower the front end and get with Mr. Butler on the seat. He will also narrow the neck if you ask. Inexpensive and worth it.

There are two things you can do to lower the seat height. 1: Buy a lowering kit, or make your own. Info on this site. 2: Drop the front end by raising the fork tubes on the triple tree. Info on this site as well. This not only lowers the front end but improves low speed handling. In addition, you can have the seat modified by Rick Butler who will scoop out some of the padding and replace with better stuff... All 3 of these can get you pretty low. But know that this may interfere with cornering clearances...

Wish I was up there to enjoy your purchases with you! Looks great!

Not dumb. Normal. We've all done the same thing...sometimes when we are zooming down the road. The rear brake is sensitive so practice emergency braking in a parking lot. Other than that, I did over 4K in June to Michigan and back to Arizona in 17 days....like riding a Caddy!

Agreed. But. We don't like them. Sleeping where the bike sits does not appeal to us. We did look around and found for those who are considering toy haulers, you can get a better deal buying a horse trailer with living quarters. You don't sleep with the horse. You don't cook with the horse and you don't poop with the horse. It's a separate compartment. To get that in a toy hauler, you have to spend some serious money. The horse trailers were actually cheaper pound for pound! We are going this way....

Ah, OK. Just like a car. In a car it's a reminder to take the key out. On the scoot, it's a reminder to turn off the bike. Battery drain. At least, that makes sense to me. If the wife didn't want to travel around this country in a travel trailer, I'd go buy the new Venture. I really do like all that they put on her....

I wonder if that's the "kickstand is down" warning...

Happy Birthday, BSquared!

Clutch drag and hard finding neutral after a run was always a good indication for me to change the oil as well. I've run dino 20-50wt Yamalube with no creep issues and last oil change tried the rotella T6...still no issues. With Dino oil the motor was quieter....others have posted opposite results. Go figure. I'll be following along with how you solve this.

Did you look into the Shinko 777HD's? I believe they come in whitewall...don't know if those are wide enough though... https://www.shinkotireusa.com/product/777-777-hd-heavy-duty/211908

Interesting . His last comment about it (Shinko) being hard to spoon doesn't sit well.... @cowpuc had no problem with mine. Of course, Puc has lots of experience so his technique, that he explained/showed to me, is no doubt better than most! I really liked that tire on the RSV. I regret we didn't do a video of how he changed out the rear tire....it was priceless...

Thanks...I was always in trouble for my stache and hair... The Smith's gauges were fun too. The electrical connections for the fuel gauge on my Bugeye were two brass nuts. Not only did they connect the power and signal to the gauge but also allowed you to adjust the full and empty mark! Just loosen and slide a teeny bit to line up the needle to the mark. I enjoyed working on the car. Everything was fun to work on except the clutch! Pull the engine to get to the clutch because the driveline was encased in a tunnel that was part of the body!

My first vehicles were bikes. Then finally got a car. Bought a 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite. 43hp. Went across country twice in that little car! Loved zipping around Denver in the snow as well. Working on that car was a ton of laughs. Seriously easy and almost everything had to be makeshift. Except rebuilding the generator and the tach drive behind it. I did like British humor in how they built cars back in those days...really quite interesting! Miss that car...too. Here I am in Texas to visit a friend. Driving from New Hampshire to Denver. 1972. Finishing a month long leave after coming back from overseas. Note the long hair!

Sorry to hear, Mark. I'm missing two tabs from very same reason. Managed to repair the rest. They are old... Not much we can do. I make it a point to open them when I stop...

Now I wish I had been saving dollars instead of pennies! Nice toy for sure!!

Tap off the 12volt cig socket in the fairing. Or the running lights in same area. Contact Steve . [h=5]@M61A1MECH[/h]He has inexpensive custom plug and play harnessesjust for this.

Getting out of the Air Force in 73, I looked at 3 cars: 73 Dodge Challenger with Rallye package, 340 V8 and slap stick automatic. Yellow. Black top. Or the 73 AMC Javelin, 360 V8. But bought a 73 Opel Manta Rallye instead. It was Porsche killer in the curvy Colorado mountain roads, yet doclie in town or on freeway. Love to get that car back!

Ah man!!! Cruel!! Lol!

I'm 220lbs. I run my 89 on auto, low, front and rear for most riding. I go medium in front for twisties and add medium on rear for 2 up. Damper on 2 solo...3...2up.