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My son pulled the swingarm and then the output shaft - it is seized. It smells like it got HOT. I even see tempering color at the base of the yoke. I am thinking that is the problem! I assume there is a lubrication problem - Any ideas why? Also, I see the number 61 on the flange. Is that the thickness of the shim? I see an output shaft on ebay that has 73 on the flange. Is there a specific way that you set the pinon tolerance? +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ If in the above, you are talking about the middle gear shaft, part 12 on page 4-104, then yes, there is a specific procedure to set the shims for the shaft tolerance. Lubrication here is provided by engine oil. Any issues here will mean major teardown of the engine/transmission. If you are talking about the drive shaft itself...that is located in the swing arm, then no, there isn't any alignment procedure other than lining up the rear end of the driveshaft housing...to the front end of the rear end....a simple procedure. The swing arm provides the alignment of the drive shaft to the output U joint and the rear end. The procedure for aligning the rear end to the drive shaft is done by putting the axle back into the rear end, tightening the 4 acorn nuts that connect the bolts on the rear end to the swing arm equally to spec then making sure the drive shaft can be pulled(moved) easily in and out. This aligns the rear end to the drive shaft assembly. Like I said...really simple stuff. Well documented on this site by others... Page 7-74 gives the breakdown of the shaft drive troubleshooting. The shaft drive connects the output of the transmission at the U joint on the front end of the shaft. Lubrication at that area is provided by grease supplied at the joint by the owners. The rear end of the drive shaft goes into THE rear end and is lubricated by the oil of the rear end itself. If you are talking about the drive shaft being frozen, then either the middle gear shaft is frozen somewhere along it's 90 degree path to the U joint, or the rear end of the bike is locked up. The drive shaft itself "may" cause a lockup at the U joint if not lubricated but that would also show issues with the splines on the U joint itself...and require replacement of that U joint. A major task. Similar lock up "may" occur at the other end of the drive shaft if the rear end is dry....but I would think other parts would be responsible for the lock up...like the final output drive gears or bearings. They are kind of like a reverse of the middle gear...a 90 degree turn from along the bike's axis to the rear wheel. Pages 7-83 and 7-84 diagram the final output drive or "rear end". To download the manuals...go here: https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?91-Manuals-Guides-Parts-Diagrams-Etc Download the RSV service manual and the RSV parts manual. These bikes are very well built. So I would recommend you read the manuals to familiarize yourself more...then simply look at what you have going on. Do some more diagnosing and looking around then come back and let us know where you are. I'm heading out of town for a few weeks, but there are a ton of guys and gals here who know far more than I and they will jump in...Good luck! I'll be interested in finding out what you find as major issues with these scoots are not common. P.S. Page 7-77 (I think) shows the entire drive train assembly...just to give you an overview....

I use the USPS app and find it to be quite accurate. Far better than Fed Ex...which is broken as far as I'm concerned. UPS is good as well. Regarding privacy...if you really understand how much information is being gathered each and every day, you would realize there is no way, none, nada, that any agency can possibly ever look at each piece of info. Not even close. So I'm not concerned at all. Even NSA's massive computer system can only handle so much data, so they have to prioritise. I doubt very much I'm even within a thousand miles of their priority list! Or anyones, for that matter. Why worry, be happy.

I'm adding my two cents: Look at the U joint. It's easy to get to. If the bolt broke that holds the U joint to the output shaft, it could have locked up the drive train. There were a few years where the bolts weren't treated properly during manufacture...causing them to break after years of service. I would also take the pumpkin apart...the rear end...and look at the end of the drive shaft where it enters the rear end. Look to see if that sheared off as well. Mine did. Though it didn't lock anything up...just created a loud whine when decelerating. These motors are very robust...so it's always best practice to look at the easiest stuff first. This is my U joint looking through the drive shaft tunnel. It moved around but didn't fall anywhere so I knew it was good. This is a shot of my drive shaft broken at the rear end...the thing sheared off.

Looks like a Type 99 to me as well. But I'm no expert...

1st guess would be the start switch is dirty and sticking... That would explain the auto crank all by itself. Lots of electrical stuff goes through that switch. Spray some contact cleaner for a temp fix... 2nd guess is I had a horn wire grounding... Blowing the signal fuse. So yes... Look for a wire grounding.

That's good news... Cause with a normal tire, the rear end jumps out quickly.... Only quick reactions kept me from high siding at 75mph. Scary.

OK Thanks! I was hoping you wouldn't be able to lock up the rear end with a CT installed. I've locked up once and scared the pudding out of me...and no...I wasn't wearing brown at the time....although afterwards...but that's a different story!

Ronnie, I'm a tad confused....(normal for me). What scoot did you mount the CT?

Appreciate the update. Glad to hear your mom did have a good life! Prayers Up! Now jump on that Honda...!

Randy, Sorry to hear! Falling is one thing I fear the most now that I'm getting older.... Prayers Up!

Ah man..sorry to hear. Prayers Up!

Merry Christmas! Happy Holidays! Peace.... david

Took the RSV out yesterday for a run. Finally got approval from Ear Doc to ride.... Found this little trailhead behind a Circle K....of all places. About 1/2 mile away from it. Nice ride...nice day....hope to get more in this Spring. Merry Christmas...Happy Holidays....Peace.... david

I like them but strobe lights are against the law in some states...not to be used as brake lights, etc..

It is a trying time, for sure.....but know that the hurt goes away in time and the good memories remain behind to help you smile when you have those "miss your mom" moments! It's been 15 years since both of my parents passed....and I still miss them. But the smiles come on stronger now as I remember some of the wonderful things they did for my sister and I. Sorry for your loss.....hang in there!

Yikes! Take care of that knee Ben....it's been through the mill, for sure, but you have many more miles to go on it! Prayers Up!

Scooters? Why not! LOL> I just added my $12 as well. Thanks to all for a great year! Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas!

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?91-Manuals-Guides-Parts-Diagrams-Etc

Geesh, Rich...very sorry to hear! Only suggestions I can offer are to do the bone cracker regiment and see if it works, but I would also go see a specialist to get a referral for an MRI. You need to see what's going on. If it's a disc issue, the surgeries today are far better than even 10 years ago. I was watching an animation where they go in through the front by the stomach and inject this "stuff" into the space between two discs, raising the discs and taking the pressure off the nerve bundles. The stuff is supposed to mimic the normal stuff between the discs and last. I thought that was pretty cool. Regardless, you want to know why the pain is there! Then look at ALL the options. Make your decision. Good luck and Prayers Up! David

Carb Heaters: I doubt the carb heaters take that much juice either.....but who knows. I would guess, 2 amps each leaving about 2 amps, 20 watts available. Problem is for me...I don't know when the heaters are on? I would have to assume that MAYBE they come on to help warm up the bike right after start, or MAYBE come on when temps go below freezing to keep the carbs from icing up...but nothing's been said that I can recall or have read...about them. You could just pull the fuse and not worry about them. BUT....if you are....Running off the battery, you should be good. The charging circuit will charge as much as it can and that's it. It should be robust enough to handle it's full output for a reasonably long period of time. In cool weather, I doubt the regulator or stator would get that hot...but again, who knows? Your tail light/brake light is probably like my board....less than 10 watts on brake....so no issue there either. To be honest, if I were in your shoes...I would test each item at all three temps individually to see how well they work in the given outdoor weather you are riding in. Then step them in together to see how the system works on a typical touring scoot. That way you get the item impressions and efficiency as well as the overall usability of the entire heating system on the bike. Let's face it, a manufacturer needs to know if their system draws to much power to be usable for the average Joe out there... So try to blow it up after you've tested each piece. Worse case is you will blow fuse somewhere. But probably not..coming directly off the battery. The main fuse is located lower left behind the passenger foot rest. Drop foot rest down and pull the panel. For grins, pull your manual and copy the pages listing where the 3 locations for fuses are and which is which. Enjoy the ride....!

For replacing the reflectors with LEDs....these are probably what you want: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32376637841.html You want the three wire systems, so you can wire them to both the running lights and the turn signals....and they will blink. Just make sure they fit the reflector area or close enough to make mounting easy. If you don't want the LEDs to blink, then get the 2 wire system. As far as headlight, the reason most LED bulbs don't work well on our housings is they aren't really made for our type of headlight. Make sure the bulb you get has the low beam cut off. If it does and if it has the ability to rotate the LED bulb in it's housing, then I bet the bulb would work perfectly for you. I found my bulbs using those search parameters. These are about the best you can buy....not sure if these will fit (H4-don't remember LOL) but take a gander at the way it's built...and see the low beam cut off...that's what you want. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/h4-led-headlight-bulbs-morimoto-2stroke.html BTW, you will have to re-aim the headlight down some. Once I did that, I got great wide beam pattern and a solid cutoff. Plus my high beam lit the road for a long, long wway... Tail lights...yes...if you can find the LED board that fits directly into the housing then that's the way to go. Someone is bound to be making them. Look for Yamaha VStar bike models...some of those should fit. Turn signals...no...Adding a resister to the circuit to take advantage of using LEDs is a waste. You are still drawing the same current as having regular bulbs. Using a proper relay for LEDs is the better way to go, but you do lose the self cancelling as was mentioned. Your call. All doable, just do the research.

There should a touch of friction between brakes and rotors...but not enough to heat them up. Your concern needs to be if the pistons are dirty and/or the caliper is dirty then you could apply the brakes and the pistons don't return enough. That will cause heat build up, which in turn, will cause the brake fluid to get hot, which will expand and cause the pistons to put more pressure on the rotors to the point where you come to a dead stop...with the rear end a bit warm! If you can brake repeatedly without the rear rotor getting to hot...you should be ok. The solid drive train has far more friction....

As far as I can tell from the manual...the nominal charging output is 30 amps at 14 volts at 5,000 rpm. So that is the max the bike will put out. Now subtract the engine, headlight and other lights that are on while engine is running. What's left is what you have available for the heating system. Now you should also take into account, not all heated pieces will be drawing current concurrently...and...that even if they do...a few minutes discharging won't hurt anything...as when the heated garments cycle off, they charging system will bring that battery back up. What you do have to be concerned with is drawing more than 30 amps at one time....as that is the main fuse size...so carry an extra, or 2, with you just in case. Rough output figures: Output: 30 amps at 12/14 volts is around 300 watts. Figure 10 watts per amp is close enough for this situation. The engine/ignition fuse is rated at 10 amps...or about 100 watts. Doubt it uses that much...as the draw is really the coils. I don't know what else may be on that circuit as the carb heaters are on a separate fuse (10 amps...and they could draw that much if all 4 heaters are on during a cold day). The signal system has a 15 amps or about 150 watts...but again, even if that includes all the rest of the lighting except headlight...they all won't be on at the same time. Add up the bulbs you have that are not LED and that should tell you what your signal circuit is drawing. LEDS don't count for current draw...they use to little...unless you are running some strong LEDs in your brake circuit! The headlight fuse is 15 amps...but the bulb draws about 55 watts (6 amps) on low beam. So there is reserve there as well. The fan is 10 amps.....I doubt it draws that much too... The starter can draw 180 amps momentarily, so don't have the gear on during start. That's as far as I can go not knowing your scoot. Do the math and you should be good to go with the result. Besides, during testing, you "could" test each unit separately....to judge the effectiveness of the unit in test. In that case, no worries at all. My guess is you'll have about 100 watts to play with....until you hit the turn signals. FWIW, david

https://autos.yahoo.com/thor24-hammers-12-million-143500210.html Happy Thanksgiving!