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I used fiberglass cloth and epoxy. My first step though is a soldering iron, ABS pieces and some labor. I melt the crack edges...tack weld them with heat. Add some melted ABS at the ends for stress relief. Then overlay fiberglass cloth with epoxy. I used epoxy over Plastifix only because I always have some around for the boat.

Stearing. It's my first thought. But the bushings in the swing arm may be worn. Check the torque on the rear end as well ..

I don't want to take any $$ away from members... But this will do in a pinch. @cowpuc engineered this wood block arrangement at his house when I got a flat tire coming out of Chicago heading his way. It worked fine. And we were able to swap out the tire. Or should I say, Cowpuc did the swapping!! I learned! Miss you, Bro!

Interesting. Agreed that air flow can be an issue.

Ronnie, Sorry to see this late. Crossing fingers your Florida trip goes well That said, I've never seen my rear end get that hot. Did you align the rear drive using axle before tightening the 4 nuts on the pumpkin? Is the washer by the rear brake mount in the right place? Just throwing out guesses here? A hot bearing usually means things are too tight. 🤞 David

Rode through U.S. 60 in Phx on a Friday pm? Yikes! Lots of idiots have moved in from California and brought their awful driving habits with them... Not even I will do that. Lol.

Old post but I'm going to reply. Long post: The problem with our speakers is 3 fold. 1. Amp is weak. Maybe 10 watts per channel rms. 2. Speakers are 4 inch. To small/cheap to really put out decent sound. 3. Speaker enclosure is, in reality, non existent. Speakers require power to be able to accurately move the voice coil and speaker cone. There are seriously good speakers that are 4 inch(think recording studio monitors), but we don't have the power to drive them properly. Nor do we have to enclosure to dampen the cones. Without those two things, we could easily blow a speaker by throwing to much garbage at it. It simply won't work well. If we had a tad more room in the fairing speaker enclosure, we could add fiberglass to help dampen the air flow .. Giving the speaker cone some resistance... Allowing for higher volume without distortion. But we don't. We could tear out the back of the abs behind the speaker and build an exposure, but no room. Bottom line.... You can add an amplifier. It will give you more volume. But more bass? No way. Plus you will get to enjoy more distortion as well. You can add an amplifier and seriously good 4 inch speakers($$$) but the enclosure is going to work against you. Will you gain something? Yea ... But not as much as you should. It's that worth it? That's your call The best solution is a good pair of ear buds. I bought an adapter that plugs in between my helmet and the intercom/speaker cord. I then plug in my ear bud to that. The only issues with ear buds is a. Fitting them inside helmet. b. Finding good ones that also have passive noise reduction to keep out air flow and real world noise. If you don't wear a helmet then (b) is a must. To protect your hearing as well as allow you to actually hear the music! These are about the best of both worlds when it comes to noise isolation and frequency response. The issue is whether they will fit under your helmet comfortably. I have an older version of them. Been using for 15 years. Went cross country.... Had no hearing issues, wasn't tired from wind blasting, comfortable all day! They were, and still are, the very best.... Short of having customized ear buds like musicians do ($$$). https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1475383-REG/etymotic_research_er2xr_extended_response_earphones.html?ap=y&smp=ba_f1_ll&srsltid=AR57-fAMjHpFkAZczDGIyUkS9eSbuH-HhILamNPpvkLKoZIYaRG6-jtW5kA Lastly, there is an alternative. Cheaper. But still decent sound and noise reduction if you make them properly. Just search Internet. Available from really cheap to expensive ear bud monitors, custom made. You mold them to your ears. Add to this, you can get them with bluetooth. A tiny bluetooth transmitter plugged into to our system will give you all day wireless audio. Or, add a Garmen type gps plugged in and get turn by turn direction's, music, xm radio, tape deck and am/fm radio... All in one! So many choices! Hope this helps... David

No.

Mine has done that since day 1. Cold blooded beastie I haven't concerned myself with it, just ride slow till she warms up. Only a few minutes for me...

Somewhere I thought I saw a graph that someone did that showed gear rpms vs mph. On this site....Sorry don't remember any more.

That's a great looking project... And useful too!! The only suggestion I could make is to add a schematic for those of us who have already installed the ignition bypass harness. A how to guide for plug and play...Digitaldawg might need that. I'm debating this project.... Cause my riding days are winding down. Sad to say. It's getting really scary out there. Near misses seen to be the norm instead of the exception. Add to that, an inner ear infection caused me to have serious balance issues for almost 3 months. Walking was a problem so riding was not even a thought! Great idea though!!! D

I've never been able to follow the wire placement diagrams in the shop manual. To cluttered for my brain. But if you can, that will show you the path of the neutral switch wires.....

Hope this helps. I'm going to bed!

The switch is located in that tiny area just behind the 3 stator wires and the final drive assembly. Right next to the clutch slave

Oh...I think I have pictures of that area. Look for my post in the 1st Gen area...I was looking for an oil leak. This picture is the 1st Gen switch. It has all the connections for the 5 gears plus neutral. The 2nd Gen unit looks like this with only 2 wires. Neutral.

The neutral switch is where the gear shift indicator was in the 1st Gen. Just behind the clutch slave. It's the weird looking plastic plate with an orange O ring. At least that was the color on my 1st Gen. Regardless. I'm not at my scoot, Don, but if memory serves... You need to take off the rear cover ( final drive cover?) on lower left side. You need to replace the gasket and remember the bottom screw (?) has a tiny gasket on it. Behind the cover is the clutch slave and to the rear of that, deeper inside the engine is the weird looking plate. 3 screws hold it in. Almost triangular in shape. Anyway, the shop manual says that's the switch. You can trace the wires up and maybe find a connector to test for continuity between the two contacts. Hope this helps...

My vote would be drive shaft. If the front end is the shaft snaps, no drive. Or the rear as well. The clutch not re-engaging s interesting as well. But to be honest, haven't heard much about either issue in years.

We did rt 191 in Eastern AZ/. Over 100 miles. Serious curves with major drop offs...no guard rails...Devils Highway. Formerly RT 666.

Actually, I do think many riders are downsizing. Take a good solid look at the new Royal Enfield 650 Super Meteor. It's coming to the US this summer. A solid, well made cruiser thats taking the motorcycle media by storm. Its a simple, humble well built bike. Even has ABS and Brembro type brakes. But a strong motor, simple instrumentation (reminds me of the VStars), and solid fit and finish. With an estimated price tag of around $8K, it should sell very well here. Why? Well...... Because.....The mid sized cruiser market is barren. Yamaha pulled the VStar 950 and 1300 that were truly the best cruisers out there. They were far better than HD's or anyone else's cruisers. Upgrading those bikes would have given Yamaha the lead in the mid size cruiser market. They still own the small size cruiser market with the VStar 250. Its been crediting as being the best small cruiser for beginners, for the quite a few years now. Add to that, the new "touring" bikes being introduced are smaller, lighter and far faster than ever. Many have V4's in them!!! There are called sport tourers or adventure bikes. The former are larger and road worthy...the latter are smaller but equally suited for light off roading and highway riding. From Yamaha? Think Tenere. That's where the money is going right now. The touring market isn't going away...it's changing....and the Star riders didn't even notice....hence the new Yamaha touring scoot that failed to sell despite being a tremendous effort by Yamaha. Well...as I said before...if the newest Yamaha had been a truly unique touring machine, I would have bought one. I've completed my 75th year of life, and my riding days are nearing the end. My body is telling me to slow down. Been riding since I was 17ish. The RSV has served me well and I still love to ride it. But yearn for the smaller, lighter, more nimble scoots like the VStar 950Tourer. Fast, comfortable economical and put my old body in the wind nicely. Maybe I'll sell the RSV and get that Royal Enfield cruiser. I doubt Yamaha will give me a choice.....shame. Hope all are well...do miss youse guys and gals! david

If the new Venture had a V4, even if it was a new fuel injected version of our old motor, I would have bought one. Seriously. But when @cowpuc "sighed" ( being nice here) during the unveiling of the new Venture, I knew I wasn't going to be spending any money on a new scoot. Saddened me. Thinking ...why would Yamaha even think they could compete against HD? What/who could possibly believe that? We know only that the Star group got their opinions heard and ours was not. Well.. They are VTwin lovers... They wanted a touring VTwin. They were wrong. Yamaha was wrong. We all know that now. An expensive mistake. I like Twins. The VStar 950 was a truly wonderful ride. So don't get me wrong. But the V4 motor would have made the new Star Venture unique. And with everything else that bike offered, it would have sold!! Will Yamaha come out with a new touring bike? I doubt it. I'm thinking of downsizing even though I love riding the RSV. It's so dam comfortable. So for me...I think my time has passed with regarding long touring rides. Sad to think that Yamaha's last entry into the touring world didn't sell. But that's life... I'm embarrassed for Yamaha. Even my best riding buddy was mute on the new bike( he rides an HD Ultra). That says a lot to me about Yamaha's choice. Maybe after I'm long gone, the younger generation will be asking for a touring bike from Yamaha. Maybe they will build one. A hybrid. With all the wonderful bells and whistles. I wish the company only the best success!!!

I can't find the diagram but they're is over on this site that gives the dimensions of the mounting bracket to hold the HD pipes on the venture The photos are my installation.

I didn't remove the inner fairing. I removed the outer fairing to get to the bolts that hold the fairing assembly to the fork frame. Once I took off the bar mounts, I was able to gently lift the entire assembly up as you see in my pics. That gave me access to the fork covers and then the forks. I did take off the front wheel and the brake calipers to take the weight off the forks. In reality, it took longer to get the fairing off and out of way than it did to get the forks out. The forks were the easy part!

RR, I believe the 4 carbs have different size main jets....

Steve, If you can move the date to April, you should have better weather. May can be warm around Phoenix area! This year, the long range forecast shows high 80's to mid 90's. But it can go into the 100's! There are two of us in Tucson area @kic and myself. If you need anything, hopefully we will be around to help. david