videoarizona

Replacing the headlight and aux lights with LEDs is "almost" mandatory as the the alternator output is marginal at best. I replaced my headlight with an LED bulb and like the pattern and throw far better. I haven't been able to find the parts needed to put aux lights on...yet.

Not sure I understood you correctly. You need to bleed left front. Then center. Then rear. All using the rear brake pedal or a tool as you did. Check alignment of rear calliper. Loosen 2 bolts holding caliper arm and make double sure washer is in right spot. I'm not going to guess where as I'll problem get it wrong! Check torque on caliper holding bolts to arm. Take rear master reservoir off of master cylinder. Check connection between both. Spray brake clean in master cylinder. Make double sure the bleed hole is open. I use a high "E" guiter string. Make sure pistons move freely. They should retract just a teeny bit when pedal released. If none of this works... Take off rear wheel. Put axle back in and see if it slides in/out easily. If yes put wheel back in. If no... Continue... With rear wheel off....loosen 4 nuts holding rear end to swing arm. Put axle back in to use as an alignment tool. With those 4 nuts loose... You should be able to move the rear end shaft so the axle moves freely. Tighten nuts and put rear end back together. I'm hoping someone else will jump in at some point with ideas I've forgotten!

1st: What bike? 2nd: If 1st gen Venture Royale the rear and the left front are linked. Unless previous owner unlinked them. Meaning they work together when you press on the rear brake pedal. So bleeding is a different animal depending upon model and year. SDome wills ay start at the farthest point (frontleft) and bleed there. Then at the triple tree there may be a bleed that should be next. Finally the rear. More info and lets see if we can get you on your ride in time.

Yep. One thing at a time. You will get to bottom of this as long as you don't "shotgun it".....just one thing at a time and test. I also agree with Techron. Good stuff. I doubt very much you will have to remove carbs. But that is easy to do. Just take them out together as a unit. If you then take the bowls off and clean them..then put them back in...you won't have any adjustments to deal with. I could be wrong...but almost always...when fuel comes out of the overflow tube...it's a stuck float. Whether it's stuck due to contamination or something broke....I don't know. Go for it!

Well done!!

Rick, Good to hear from you! Nope don't have a cover for you, wish I did. Please take care and drop in once in a while when you can....

That's nice, Puc. I didn't get to see any FW this year...everything shut down here. Didn't even watch on TV as my favorite, the Boston Pops 4th Concert either was cancelled or didn't play out here. Thanks...

Why change out the radio? Use the AUX port the RSV already has and add to it. How? Glad you asked...grins. Open the fairing, add a "Y" connector to the Aux input and run a TRS 3.5mm cable out to wherever you are going to put the XM/Syrius and then just switch to the Aux port using the stock radio control and enjoy your tunes! Here's a link to the last post I made. I added a mixer to handle all the inputs...so I can still use the stock radio/tape deck and have my XM and GPS. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?146166-Amplirider-2nd-Gen-and-others&p=1081191#post1081191

I'll add to @cowpuc's mileage response on Shinkos. My 89 VR has the 230's and they are at 7800 now with tread left. They are soft tires but very good ride. My 05 RSV has a 770HD on front that has a little over 6200 miles and looks brand new. The rear has a 230 on it (cause Chicago streets sent a nail in my 777HD 2 years ago on my way to @cowpucs house - his local dealer only had a 230 in stock.) The rear 230 has about 3k on it and looks like new.

All of the above. All any visitor needs to do is read some of the threads...follow along with us as we help each or just yak. The proof is in the reading. Plus, there is no other forum that has the depth of knowledge and camaraderie of this forum. Seriously! And for only $12/year....geesh. That's a no brainer right there. david

That would be my guess...bad gas. Contaminated fuel does happen in areas where stations don't get much traffic or have old tanks. I had that problem as well. Turned out to be a stuck float. Fuel was pouring out of the hose. I tapped on the side of the bowl of the carb that was pouring fuel. Did it without bike running. Used the wooden handle of a screwdriver. Worked for me. That said: If you have bad gas, suggest you get to a place where you can work on bike...or wait until you get home. Drain tank and flush. Flush fuel line to carbs. Change filter. Nows a good time to m ove the filter up under the seat just behind the tank. Room there under the frame. Easier to change out next time...plus if you want to see the condition of the filter, just take off the seat and look. Then use @cowpucs suggestion to find a hypo at a pet supply place (horses). Fill with a carb cleaner....disconnect the drain hose from each carb and shoot the cleaner directly into the bowl. Do this with each carb. Let it sit for a few minutes. Flush and repeat. Then with fresh gas in tank....turn the ignition and emergency run switch on until it shuts off. Do this 3 times. Because the fuel pump shuts of automatically after a few seconds, you need to turn bike off and on again to get the bowls filled. For me on both of my Ventures, the fuel pump usually slows down and stops on the 3rd time. (When the pump stops abruptly, the bowls aren't full...the bike shuts off the fuel pump as a safety thingie.) Then fire her up and see where you are at. I would do this before I went to the dealer. Chances are that's what they will do and it will cost! If that doesn't work...come back and maybe we can find something else. If the bike was running well before you tanked up, then started running like crap....I'm guessing bad gas.

Shinko 777HD or Michelins. I prefer the stickiness and ride of the Shinkos but the Michelin will last longer. I look at changing tires as an opportunity to clean up and grease the rear end. So it's a win/win for me. P.S. Welcome @cowpuc!

The only other thing I highly recommend is the ignition bypass harness. For some silly reason, Yamaha ran way to much current through the ignition switch. This simple plug and play harness sends only the ignition stuff through the switch... Saving the switch from burning up the contacts. Dion.. @djh3 makes them. Take off tank and connect up. Another easy installation!

I bought Skydoc's 2nd gen clutch upgrade kit. Excellent. Piece of cake to install. No more waiting for rear tires to catch up and clutch pull is only a touch harder. Not like Barnet kit that would kill my hands.

Yep...my apologies. I didn't mean to imply that you could adjust the speedo on the bike. I use the Speedo DRD and have found it to be very dependable and accurate. Been on 2 bikes so far and works well....I mounted mine under the seat. The connector for the rear end sensor is near there. Sounds like the throttle cables need some adjustment or something there is out of wack. I say this because the cruise will automagically shut off when 5 mph over the speed set or 5mph under. Since yours is going to 80mph (which is the max you can set the speedo to) without shutting down....I'm going with the cable problem. My guess anyway. Other wise, the system "seems" to be operating properly.... Go through and pull each connector in the system, clean and re-seat. Pull the sensor plug on the rear end...left side with wire coming out. Clean both electrical side and mechanical side (sensor) and put back in. Snug it, don't crank it down hard. I don't remember if there is a set tightness. My 05 is 150 miles away otherwise I would go and film the diagnostic procedure for you. Yea I know...what is it doing there? I rode it up there so my buddy and I could ride northern Arizona mountains in the Spring. Covid put an end to that fun. So there it sits until Fall. Maybe I can get some mountain runs then! Otherwise I'll bring her home and play down here in Southern AZ. Hope this helps...

Well... finally found a solution to my input problem. My 2nd gen is running, radio, tape, XM and GPS into it's audio system. For my trip 3 years ago....I wired the XM into the GPS then the GPS to the aux input. This way I could listen to tunes on the SD card in the GPS, or listen to XM, using the GPS's aux input. This way I could always hear the GPS instructions regardless of which of the 2 I listened to. It worked well...but was a pain in that the GPS had to be installed and turned on. For local running around, that was a pain. Found amplirider. http://electric-avenues.com/wp-content/uploads/ar1.jpg http://electric-avenues.com/amplirider/ Amplirider is a tiny mixer that allows 3 different inputs and then outputs to our aux in on the radio. I connected the power to the spare 12volt plugs I had inside the fairing, courtesy of member Steve, @M61A1MECH. He built the harnesses I use on both bikes to extend the electrical capacity. These things are all running off the 12 volt cig plug under the left side of the fairing. Steve built the harness to tap into that plug from inside the fairing. BTW, Steve...I need some more 1 into 2 plugs...as I used 1 of the 2 I had left for above. Still need to add my LED lights.... I connected the XM, GPS and Aux in of bike (The little plug inside the tape deck cover. So that input is available as well) into it's each input on the mixer. Plugged in the volume control and ran that under the ignition cover and will velcro it next to the gas cap near where the radio/helmet plug is sitting. So now I can safely run all 3 inputs at the same time...although that would be ridiculous. But knowing I can run the XM and hear the GPS directions...or just listen to XM without even taking the GPS with me is a bonus! Gary is the man at Amplirider...and he got the unit to me and answered the questions I had without any problems. Did take a while to get from Canada down here, but I attribute that to Covid. Now if you don't need a remote volume control...order the unit with the volume built in. Match the aux inputs to the radio inputs then walk away. I opted for the external volume so I could adjust as I want...without taking the fairing off. BTW, I'm seriously thinking of taking the volume control out of it's case and mounting it in the fairing. It would be out of the way, out of the weather and still easy to reach over and adjust if needed! So there ya go. A way to junk up the handlebars even more than normal...but do so with class! I highly recommend Gary.....BTW, he has a baby amplifier available as well.... Any questions, feel free to PM me... david

Richard, Does it continue to accelerate? How much faster? Does the unit cut out at 5 over or 5 under? Does it hold any speed? There are two things I can think of that can cause that... 1. Cables not adjusted properly. If the vacuum pump has to pull more than it should to get to the right speed, then it will overshoot. Could be something as simple as a misadjusted or loose cable. 2. Speedo problem. If you are talking about the 2nd gen, my speedo has never been linear. It jumps as it goes up and down the scale. Unlike the 1st gen's mechanical speedo, the second gen is a sensor driven electronic unit...fully adjustable, BTW to eliminate any error. So not sure if that could be a problem. I would download the manual for the 2nd gen...and do the speedo tests. You use the gas gauge and follow the directions to test the unit. Try that out. Meanwhile do some more tests and let us know what you have found.

Man, glad you are ok!! Sad to see the bike took such a hit.... But better the scoot than you! Rest up then get back in the saddle. And I think that wrench is your good luck charm!

Dale, Sorry..I missed the part that said you are tall. You don't want to lower the front end. You DO want to raise the rear. You need leveling links that will bolt right on raising the rear about 1 inch. That should allow you to flat foot it with both feet down when stopped as well as change the geometry of the bike, making the steering effort less. Here is a link from another site that includes pics of how he did it. Now this guy made his own links.... http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002013&id=252 Just found this on EBAY https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XVZ1300-Royal-Star-Venture-Jack-Up-Kit-1999-2013-Dogbones-Links-Linkage/230445213165?epid=1250580399&hash=item35a79ae5ed:g:azkAAOSwfaBazhYQ I know we have info on this site with pics as well...just couldn't find it. hope this helps...

Yeppers! Them there Chicago nails are brutal! Dam tire was brand new, too!

This is my 05 RSV. Lowered my shocks about 1 inch. Made sure the valves were pointed out so I can get to them. Other than taking the front end apart (which is easy), lowering the front forks was a piece of cake. Found instructions and pictures on this site. Searched the forums. Much nicer handling. cowpucs video above where he is slow riding on the beach parking lot ...he's using my bike. No issues with cables. Everything else is stock. And yea...the bike was still packed from my trip. I also added risers as I needed the pull back for my arms. You can see them as well....

Richard, Congrats! You will like the ride. It's lower (a good thing, right?!), easy to handle despite being heavier. But remember, it's a totally different ride. I personally feel Yamaha cheapened the 2nd gen.....plastic is flimsier, etc.. But it's still a great ride. remember, I went accros country on my 05 with no issues at all (except a flat tire, @cowpuc repaired for me to get me back on road)...very comfortable.

Have you thought about doing this yourself? It's easy to take off, harder to get the covering off, but then reshaping with an electric knife and re-padding is easy. The hard to get the covering back on....but it is doable to anyone with some patience. Before I spent $700...I would most certainly try it yourself...or look around your neighborhood. I bet there is someone around you who works with leather/vinyl stuff and would help. I went across country 2 years ago on stock seat. I'm 5'10", 200lbs. My butt was fine for 8 hour days in the saddle. But I understand we are all different....that's why I suggest you try it yourself. BTW, we used to have a gentleman on this site who rebuilt seats. His name: Rick Butler. Don't know if he's still doing that....but he rebuilt one of mine and did a fantastic job. Turned my pathetic VStar seat into an all day butt perch! https://www.venturerider.org/forum/member.php?183-Rick-Butler Good luck

I too ditched the cable. Went with an outside TV antenna (The old Radio Shack kind) put it on the roof...and it gets all the local TV channels just fine. And I'm 46 miles away from the stations! Picture quality is far better than cable was....no where near the compression issues that cable had. I can actually see blades of grass during golf with a close up of the ball/tee. And I had top of the line cable! Kept my Cox internet for $80/month. I went with Roku. Bought the Ultra. Cheap. Gets tons of internet TV stuff. Only premium channel I bought was Disney+. Everything else I like to watch is free: YouTube, etc.. I don't miss anything else I used to have with cable. In fact, my biggest complaint with cable (besides the price) was there was to much to watch. So go local with an antenna and keep a good internet. Start slowly, picking your channels you want. Won't take long to see the best stuff is free with maybe only 1 premium channel for those "hug the wife, grab the popcorn" watch movie nights! (grab the wife and hug the popcorn?) BNTW, don't go for the BS about needing an HD antenna. Any of the old style antennas work perfectly for VHF/UHF channels. They pick up digital HD just fine!

Wowsers! Congrats Carl! Reading your post was the best news this Monday Morning!! Thank you and Congrats again!