videoarizona

Finally got out for a night ride last Friday on the RSV. Been way to hot here in dessert to do anything on 2 wheels....

Thanks, T. Bongo was a nice guy. Only met him once, but truly enjoyed his company. Rest easy, Bob....

You are running rich. For sure.

I would imagine, someone has a spare intake floating around. BUT, in the meantime....take the KN out and clean it up. When dry, put it back in temporarily and see how it runs. Without the oil, it might not be as restrictive and maybe give you an idea if the restriction of the wet K&N is the problem with your spitting and backfiring. We expect a little back fire as the carbs are set to run lean anyway. hopefully, someone will find an original air intake assembly floating around...and you can go from there.

The Shinko 777HD tires are quite good. I like the ride quality, low noise, and great in rain. The HD version lasts longer. My 05 RSV had them when I rode East and visited @cowpuc. Got a nail on rear. Darn tire still looked like new!!

Bump

Throw an Ohm meter on the connector pins using the ground/common pin as your base. Wiggle the wires. If one of them fluctuates, you've found your problem on the connector. Funny thing, with all the open/closing I've done on getting to the overflow tank...I've never had a connector issue, rather a bad solder joint on the board. So I must assume the board is the weak point. Which makes sense. The connector isn't really supported by anything but the board. At least on my scoot. But once soldered with nice gobs of solder, she's been tight now for 4 years. Last thought, check the connector pins to make sure they are not dirty.

Ron, 2 things: Check all connectors between the tank and the dash and check for a good ground on the dash. Clean the connectors and put some dielectric grease around the connector (not the pins) to seal the connector. For chassis/instrument panel grounds, loosen, clean, then re-tighten. Either can cause issues. Since the sending unit sends various voltages to the gauge showing full/empty...a bad ground can cause a misread.

@VentureFar ....Hmmm....I was thinking of going this route...(https://www.tiretraker.com/proddetail.php?prod=TT700) until you came up with this product... I have their 4 sensor system for my travel trailer and find they work very well.... The only thing that bothers me is my phone is always tucked away in my jacket. No way I can get to it while riding... Decisions, decisions.

+3 on Custom Dynamics. Got my brake light cluster from them. Took out bulb, plugged in new cluster connector. Put back together. But I don't see the cluster on their website. Might have to email them....it also fit the VStars if I remember correctly.

Happy Birthday, young man!

Actually simply remove the dogbones on either side and use the toolkit (hopefully you have one). The tools make it easier to get the plugs out. You can also use a small hose, putting the plug on the end, to put the plugs back in. I used the tool kit and found it to be simple. Just remember to blow high pressure air around and down into the plug area BEFORE you take the plugs out. Will keep any nasties that have been living down in there from going into the motor.

The only thing I would add is not a repair thought, rather and "go like heck" thought. "Ride it like you stole it" is the operative phrase for these V4's. They have no problem running right to the limiter...all day long. Short shifting will bring you lousy gas mileage, acceleration and a feeling of "what the heck?". Most of us never get into 5th gear until on the freeway over 65mph or so. She'll run all day long in 4th gear (which is also an overdrive gear). For some silly reason, Yamaha dropped the limiter from 7500rpm to 6000 rpm on these 2nd gen's. Same engine, same part numbers for the most part....so what guys did was buy an aftermarket computer and raise the limiter back up. Seems to have worked very well for those that did. Hopefully, they will chime in as to what unit they bought and how they mapped it. I believe our fearless leader, Freebird , did that when he had his 2nd Gen. All in all, I went across country in my 05. Loved everything about the ride. Loaded to the gills, she never complained and always ran perfectly the whole trip. I set my handlebars up, tuned the scoot, set tire pressure, changed oil and packed her up. That's it. Great ride. Thought on the jets, be careful there as Mom Yamaha knew what she was doing with the air handling of these motors. They are a little more finnicky to get the jetting and exhaust just right for as good as performance/mileage/tractibility as she came from factory. Now if you are a jetting expert...go for it and let us know what you did and how it went. We love to learn. Last thought...pictures are mandatory. Another saying we have..."No pictures..it didn't happen"! So get out the camera and shoot some to share as you go along! Welcome to the nuthouse! david PS. If you do get into the carbs, do a valve adjustment check as well. Shouldn't need it at your low mileage, but getting a baseline knowledge of where they are is worth the effort!

If you can move the harness and get the system to work, either you need to re-solder the pins to the controller board and make sure the solder flows to make a nice shiny new connection....or....you have a broken wire/loose pin in the connector. Both problems are easy to fix, but hard to see. If I may: Suggest you try again. Use a magnifier to look closely at the connections. Seriously, these bikes are easy to repair....

Well... 20-50 will work anywhere. I even used it one summer in New Hampshire. But I always warmed up the bike before I took off. It is a touch thick in Spring and Fall in 40 degree weather... Which I rode in. But yes you can use it. Of course this viscosity issue is almost a moot point anymore. GM has me running 0-20 wt! And I'm in 110 degree heat for 3 months out of a year. Wasn't long ago that would have been a huge no no. Sigh.

Nice to know this shop exists..... I too want to rebuild the front forks on my 89...so like Ben...finding the parts has been problematic... Thanks, guys...

There are posts about it... Regardless...the cassette shuts down the radio audio signal so it can play through the same preamp/amp. The tape deck, when a tape is inserted, becomes the priority signal and plays through. There were a number of ways to get your radio back....but only one is really available any more. 1: Jumper the cable from the radio to the tape deck. @Prairiehammer probably has the schematics/drawings to do this. Others have left the deck in place and jumpered the deck on the circuit board. Don't remember where I saw that....but that is doable as well.

The Wheel Shop on McDowell....though I don't know if they install tires they didn't sell... Cycle Gear around the Valley...but they charge if you don't buy tires from them... There are others but they are in north central or west part of the valley. Harley in Scottsdale may as well.....don't know if that store will touch anything other than an HD.

Thanks, Kevin...guess that's why I was confused...

Yikes! Obviously not a connector problem! Good luck...

Maybe...or you have a Canadian model. I think some of the markets other than the USA came with slots.

No switchie...no lights from factory(dealer). My switch area is vacant as well.....

I can answer the oil question: Yes, the 2-50 would be to heavy for up north riding. Here in Arizona...I prefer 20-50wt in both Ventures. But I've got the heat... Different formulations of oil will make a difference in the loudness of the whine as well. And it seems to be different for each bike....just like the whine is different. I found synthetic made mine worse, where as cheap WalMart branded 20-50 dino worked best for me.

Interesting, Rick...I thought the center was 2nd in bleeding. Somewhere I actually wrote that down from info on this site. Reasoning was something to the effect of not wanting any air bubbles on top to move around...causing a new re-bleed. Manual has been wrong before?? Anyone else confirm?

What's wrong with yours, Jay? All the problems I've heard of stem from a dirty or loose connector inside the fairing at the radio junction. Mine freezes up and doesn't work until I take the connector apart and clean it good.