videoarizona

Both of my Ventures headlights pulse with the fuel pump. That's how I know when to hit the start button. When the light no longer pulses. Once started, I've never noticed any pulsing...

Be careful buying one of those "made for a bunch of Harley's" headlights. Chinese junk that usually requires modification. Not all are bad, but many are. Best bet is a good LED bulb with the proper low beam cut off. I bought mine 3 years ago, passive cooling. Works great. Got 2 bulbs. Put one in my 1989 Venture and one in my 05 RSV. I'm pleased...and we have lots of desert to ride in at night! For the price, I would try the bulbs @cwtart posted about. Cheap enough to be worthy of a try. Seriously....good luck!

Hello all, Just to let you know that Bill's father passed away this morning. Bill ( @KIC ) has been taking care of him for the past year. I met his dad. Liked him right away! Thoughts and prayers for Bill's family....Prayers Up! David

Another member I wish I could have met. Our prayers go out to Dale's family. Amazing Obit! Well done, Dale...rest in peace, bro....

I concur with Richard. It seems the issue I've had was the items shipped arrive at the border in a timely manner...then seem to take forever to be quarantined or whatever. But they do finally arrive at destination.

I will add the reasons the Gen 2 is slower than the Gen 1: 1: Weight. Gen 2 is over 60lbs heavier. 2: Trannie. The Gen 2 is geared wrong (in my opinion). 4th and 5th are both overdrive gears. The rest of the gears, are taller as well...at least to me...and I own both Gens. Getting off the line is harder on a Gen 2 due to the taller gear. You have to stay out of 5th gear until freeway speeds...and hold the lower gears longer...letting the motor rev...in order to keep the MPG's up. I have no problem with the larger Gen 2 front tire. In fact, @cowpuc did a video on my bike...slow riding. He took my Gen 2 for a ride with his wife on the back. He showed how easy it is to ride slowly with the proper technique. He is a master at that! I totally agree with his assessment of the Gen 2's slow riding capabilities. I find the two bikes totally different in terms of rides. Gen 1 has more wind/rain protection due to full frame fairing. Gen 2 has turbulence at knees (rain too) and some what more at helmet. I consider the Gen 1 to be a "Sport Touring" bike. The Gen 2..."Touring". Gen 1 is taller and more nimble. Gen 2 is cruising style riding. Both Gens require different riding techniques as well they should. When ridden properly, both will get you across country very nicely, with good MPG's, comfort and very dependable. So there ya go. Both have Yamaha's reliability. And both have the legendary V4. Great scoots...

Thinking out loud again (potentially dangerous thing), I've been thinking of the VMax pumpkin for some time. Reason? My experience in long distance cruising with the RSV and mpgs. My personal gut feeling is the VMax rear end should make better mpgs in normal freeway cruising, allow easier off the line starts and less downshifting up hills. My reasoning is the 5th gear is really to low a gear for a loaded scoot. I feel it takes the motor out of its power band ...or at least... right in the lower edge of it. So Fred, I would think you will get better mpgs. And a better tactile experience cruising. Especially since you rarely get to 70mph. You may have to relearn your shifts and what gear is best at different speeds, but results should be worth it all around. Now, to add to this. Anything above 75mph will probably cost me mpgs with VMax rear end. But that had yet to be determined. Glad you are up and running!

Agreed! Great look!

I fired up the 1st gen. She started right up and ran well for about 20 minutes. She's on the stand awaiting time and parts for me to rebuild the shocks. Still haven't got around to it...yet! Sad.... Meanwhile the RSV sits in Phoenix. We have had an unusual summer. No monsoon to speak of and blistering heat. Very little riding up there...even at night...its still 110 at 9pm. I originally brought the RSV up to Phoenix to ride the mountains in the Spring, but Covid took care of that.

Hmmm, 1: I would pull the drive out, pull the drive shaft and re-insert the shaft into the ujoint...taking care to make sure the shaft goes into the ujoint. That's my guess as to why it locked up. 2: if there is any way to lift the bike higher, do so. You really should align the drive with the rear end...which is done by putting the rear axle back into place with the drive assembly loose. making sure you can slide the axle in/out easily. If not, loosen the 4 nuts and move the rear end a touch until the drive shaft moves freely...then tighten down those 4 acorn nuts. Now put the rear wheel back in place. You may have to deflate the tire so you can squeeze the thing in there. If you have to take off the brace around the rear fender and the pipes, do so. The idea being is the drive assembly needs to be aligned and I'm not sure you can do so properly with the tired in the way. Other wise it sounds like you did everything right.... Oh...make sure the washer on the right side is placed properly so the rear brake is aligned as well. Let us know how it goes and what you find...

Nice find, Don! Been looking for something like that around here. But they are either very pricey or wrecked and not worth fixing up! Perfect size too...?

Let me know how those work. My Etymotic Research buds are no longer available and I loved them for sound isolation as well as sound quality. I did buy a pair of inexpensive custom mold ear buds... They do isolate well and are comfortable, but sound quality isn't the best. The Fuse buds are ok. So I'm curious what these you are looking at will sound like! TIA, D

Whoa Jeff! I had that same problem back in the days of Win XP...and for life of me can't remember what the solution was. All of a sudden, my network got dumb. Regardless,Did you try and restore back a day or so and see if you can get rid of that update. Unless the update was a server update. That could cause your issue.

Carl, I think you've been really nice about this. I would have waited about 1 hour for the manager to get back to me then all hell would have broken loose. TV stations, bad report on the dealership site, emails to the regional director, etc.. I guess I don't have much patience anymore for that kind of stuff. It's one thing to find one or two little things...but to find a whole bunch and not a word from the dealer would send me ballistic. When I bought my Sierra Denali, I made them go over every little thing I found wrong. And they fixed it all at no charge. Even when I came back for a rough start/rough idle, they replaced the motor mounts! I hope your patience holds out and the dealer does you right. God Bless you man for hanging in there...

Ah man...oopsies! Guess I wasnt paying attention... Lol!

2: Shinko 777HD or Shinko 230. 777 wears better, 230 has softer ride and really sticks. 3: ?

Gentlemen, Is this thread getting away from the problem...? Dave, here is a low cost meter that is also a clamp meter that can measure the amps of any DC or AC circuit. Charging or load. It's easy to use and dependable. https://www.sears.com/craftsman-cm/p-A028382415 You've received a ton of advice. My worry is are you able to follow all this. Without knowing your knowledge base in AC/DC systems...I have to ask that question. A typical meter. like what you have, can only read part of the information needed to diagnose an electrical problem. A clamp style meter that reads amperage is needed for the rest. The above little meter will do both. So when the piggy bank allows, order the above (or one like it) and go back through these posts. Do the tests one at a time and write the results down. When done either you have found the problem or not. If not...let us know. I'm not the electrical expert on this forum, far from it. But I've learned a great deal about bike electrical systems from the guys and gals here. So don't get discouraged....and don't shotgun your approach to the problem. One thing at a time then go to the next. Do the diagnosis in the order the service manual does...there is a reason for their thinking. Service manual available on this site... Hope this helps, david

Guys....take care of those eyes.....they don't make seeing eye motorcycles....

Original clutch basket.

Good point, Don. Thank you!

I would still use a relay for the passing lamps unless you go with LED's. Use the bypass wiring to trigger the relay but also add a switch for you to mount to turn off the passing lamps, just so you can turn them off... if desired...

Sorry Steve, you are correct. Dion makes the ignition bypass. I've bought your stuff and his and got confused...again!

I did things a tad differently. I bought the ignition by pass harness from a member here... M61A1MECH. Steve makes a simple plug and play harness that saves the ignition switch from excess current. This harness mounts under the tank. You can ask Steve to add connections to it to power devices or ask him to build you a harness for under the seat area that will be ignition switched for additional devices...or wire your own. He may have the harness listed on this site in the member seller area. I wired my 2 pin external plug direct to battery and it sticks out the left side under the seat. That's my charging port as well as an aux power port for tire inflator or any other high end use. On right side, behind the seat by the rear shock air port, I put in another 12 volt plug...this one a cig lighter port. For use by devices that may not have the simple 2 pin port. It's wired direct to battery as well. Both 12 volt ports have their own fuses and are hot all the time. Forgot about my horn. Mounted that direct to battery with a relay then used the original horn wire to switch the relay. All under the seat area tucked in next to the battery. I'm not at my bike, so can't address the white connector...and my memory of it isn't ringing any bells. So I need to stay away from that. Hope this helps!

Walther PK380.

Interesting! Thanks for the link!!