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videoarizona

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Everything posted by videoarizona

  1. Nancy made mine. Excellent!
  2. Oh... Instead of drilling out the 2 bolts holding the switch to the frame, it would have been much easier to use a small cold chisel and cut a groove across the bolt head. It's relatively soft. Then use a big screwdriver and back the bolts out. Drilling took a couple of different size bits and lots of work. I was afraid of screwing up the switch body so took my time. You can also use the groove you just made to pop off each side of the bolt head by tapping sideways on it. Then reach underneath with a needle nose and turn the bolt out. Either way, you need to get enough clearance under the switch to be able to clear the top of the triple tree where the fork lock does it's thing. Breaking off the bolts at the level of the switch doesn't cut it. Can't lift switch to clear triple tree. Live and learn....
  3. Afternoon Ben. BTW, before I forget... Happy Birthday in a couple of weeks! I've been studying that schematic for a few days now and follow everything you posted. I started on the other end, making sure the contacts worked at the clutch and sidestand. Then moved to the ignition switch. I have no continuity between the yellow/blue and black/blue. They feed the ignition/ignitor circuits. I do have continuity at the main 2 power. So I've concluded (hopefully correctly) that without continuity from those 2 circuits, the motor will spin but never fire since the igniter isn't getting the required 12volts from those 2 wires. The darn ignition switch fought me tooth and nail this morning. But it's now in my little hands. I have to take it home with me Wednesday as I need an impact driver to get the 2 screws off that hold it together. So I've gone as far as I can at the moment. Thanks to all for the help.... Cross your fingers I can clean up the contacts and be back in business next week!
  4. Also, the ignition system goes through the side stand switch. Really??!! Icouldn't find the connector for that either. Who knows where Mom Yamaha hid that little puppy! It's also goes through the clutch switch, but that seems good. Always something...
  5. Quit for today. Buddy needs to get some sleep. Still nothing from the ignition switch. @popafred2000, can you help me out on which two bolts for the ignition switch? I assume I drill them out. Top two or bottom two? Process or tips? Anyone have a second gen ignition switch with key I can borrow to test my bike with? I'll pay shipping both ways.
  6. Thanks Dion. I already have the power bypass harness. But don't think that handles the tci stuff. I thought that just sends the un-necessay current to a relay to by pass ignition switch. I'll be working on bike tomorrow morning. I'm hoping it's just a dirty switch contact. David
  7. Ok. Update. I have checked the switches that are in the starting circuit, they all work. Starter cranks well. In the ignition circuit, I can't find the connector for the pick up coil. It is no where near where the book says it should be. No 2 wire connector nearby. So can't check it. I'll keep looking... But, the main switch has 5 wires in 2 red connectors. The main 2 wires that send power to the starter, lights, etc., They have continuity when switch is on. The other three wires in the smaller connector ...one supplies power to ignition fuse and two that go to the ignitor have no continuity between them. They should. When switch is on, all 3 should be tied together. I think this is my problem. 1 is brown/black, 1 is blue/yellow and 1 is blue/ black. You must disconnect battery before testing this connector or you will damage the ignition system. You are only checking for continuity among the pins. So Dion.... I'm not sure how you can cobble something up to by pass this as all I know... All 5 connections should have 12 volts. Not being able to see the inside of the ignition switch, I don't know what, if any, games Yamaha may be playing there. Resistance? Diodes? Nothing shows in schematic but that doesn't mean much to me...I could tie 12 volts to all 3 pins but afraid I might damage something...??!!?? So that's where I'm at. Need help in determining which 2 bolts need to be drilled out in the ignition switch. Book shows 2 mounted on side. Must be for the TD bike.
  8. Thanks Dion. I already have the power bypass harness. But don't think that handles the tci stuff. I thought that just sends the un-necessay current to a relay to by pass ignition switch. I'll be working on bike tomorrow morning. I'm hoping it's just a dirty switch contact. David
  9. One question: When you use the tool to raise the valves up to measure... You turn the motor counterclockwise. Which direction do you go to release the tool? Turn it backwards or continue on counterclockwise?
  10. Hi Ronnie, thanks for replying. In looking over the bypass and switch repair posts, I'm wondering now if the switch is working. One of the first things I did when I bought the scoot was to add the bypass relay to get the current off the switch. My problem is the starting circuit works. Everything works on the bike except no spark to plugs. 12 volt to coils is there. The ground side of coils fluctuates during cranking but no spark. Does the ignition switch have an ignition switch as well as a starting switch? I see the starting circuit (engages starter solenoid) and that works fine. The ignition fuse is fine as well... If the main switch really only switches current to all circuits, then it's working fine. What controls the actual ignition besides the tci? I guess that should be my question. Cause everything is working except the plugs firing. The side stand switch and it's cohorts stop the starter from turning. But that's not my problem... Motor turns over nicely. I tried to trace back from the coils to see what else can stop the motor from firing and get stopped at the tci. Does that mean the ignitor(tci) has gone bad? Thanks for all thoughts and ideas. David
  11. Went to say hi to my 05 RSV. She was happy to see me. (Only been a few weeks). My buddy and I cleaned her up. I wanted her to look good for a ride in the morning. After cleaning, I put the key in and started her up. Well...tried to. Engine cranked fast but not even a pop. Now, I always let the fuel pump fill the bowls after she's been sitting.... fuel pump works fine. Didn't use much water so don't think we shorted out anything. Ignition fuse is good. Checked spark off of 1 plug. Nothing. Checked the kill switch...works. Worked all the other switches, stand, clutch, etc., Nothing changed anything. Pulled tank. Checked fuel. All there. So I'm down to bad switches/connectors somewhere. Bad ignition switch. Bad tci. . She was running perfectly 2 weeks ago. Went over the service manual... Looking at schematics/troubleshooting. Not much help there. Especially when you see how the ignition system goes all over the bike.... Even the cruise module! Where is the tci located so I can check the board? Or is there a connector from the tci that I can get to easier? How can I check the ignition switch to see if it's not corroded? Do you just drill out the anti-to theft thingies? And reinstall with bolts or screws? Inquiring minds would appreciate ideas!! TIA, David P. S. What's really a pisser is that this weekend is unusually cool for Phoenix. Would have been a great ride! Sigh...
  12. Me thinks it might be a bit to far for me. But one never knows....
  13. 0 Shoot.. The files are in my phone. Here ya go. Hope this helps. 1989 VR Wiring.pdf CB System Introduction - 86 tech manual.pdf CB Radio troubleshooting - 86 tech manual.pdf CB radio cabling - 86 tech manual.pdf
  14. Yikes. Guess I didn't get that from first post. You definitely have a crossed wire somewhere. Let me know if you can't find the schematic, I can email or PM the file to you.
  15. Pasta, if you know all this...disregard. Otherwise.... I just went through all of my manuals and can't find any reference to Yamaha using error codes for the cb. So... If that's true then the "7" you see is the channel the unit is on. If you can't change channels, then that's one problem. Since you are already having fun with the circuit board, I'll not go farther. Download the manual from our site. The wiring and block diagrams are detailed. There is a problem flow chart to follow for different issues. Hope this helps. I have the manuals on my phone and can email to you. But they are available on site.
  16. Ah man...sad to hear. He made good stuff!!!
  17. Funny. When I first got my 05 RSV.... It took 2 calls to find a dealer to handle an oil change and check out. The 2nd Yamaha dealer had a mechanic that knew the Ventures. I took it in. All the shop guys stood around ooohing and awwing the bike. The older mechanic smiled and took it in shop. I came back after lunch in time to see my bike go screaming past me. Check out ride after service! The mechanic gave my bike an A and said he enjoyed seeing a Venture again. He's retired now, but just before he retired I managed to have him rebuild my front shocks. So look around. A small shop will be your best bet. Bring a manual with you just in case. Always be willing to talk to the guy about and discrepancies in manual.... Get to know him. It's a partnership!
  18. Taking this one step further, can you use the module to trigger a relay that is wired to the front turn signals? May need to isolate the turn signal relay from the circuit but maybe not...
  19. Hwy 54 is pretty nice ride. I did it 3 years ago.....
  20. I rode the RSV today. Got up early and chased the front wheel to Rock Springs for a good breakfast. Then back to Phoenix...the long way. Got a bit warm at the end.
  21. Hugs to Tip. Prayers up for great healing outcome!
  22. Come to think more on the subject.....I still have the Shinko 230s on the first gen. Such a nice handling ride. I loved the Shinko 777HDs I put on the RSV. Great ride. Excellent handling in torrential Oklahoma rains and after 2 k miles, still looked brand new. Unfortunately, the rear found a nail on the way to @cowpucland and had to be replaced. His dealer had a Shinko 230 in the right size, so on it went. Still on there and running well!
  23. Yep... And they are still making good tires....
  24. That is strange. But true for me at well. My old dodge van with a 318 was running poorly with only about 160k miles on her. Took in to shop. But asked me about oil. I said only Pennzoil. He smiled and said you know the base on that oil is wax (parafin)? Uh no. He pulled the heads... Really gunked up. No more Pennzoil for this kid....
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