videoarizona

I'm running these. The only distortion I hear is the amp at high levels. These can handle far more than the amp will ever put out. http://www.carid.com/boss-audio/4-4-way-phantom-series-250w-speakers-mpn-p454c.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwndqrBRC16IyeqPicp3ASJAB-vB-cwk3ik9wd7RI4r_UrZ7Il4KMYLWlMBx7fX7P6JkRGBRoC9-jw_wcB or http://tinyurl.com/obetgh2 P.S. Still not much bass due to small size and placement...but I'm going to experiment with some fiberglass batting packed in fairing...maybe that will help. If not, I'll try and make a very light box to seal the backside of the units in. The speaker guru's I used to know back in the days of AR/Dynaco aren't alive so I can't ask them about porting, etc.. Not the simplest, but best idea, would be to build a fiberglass dam that contours to the inner side of the outer fairing with batting in it...then when the outer fairing is screwed on, it makes a sealed box around the speakers. Thinking out loud here... Hope this helps... david

Hmm..even Momma Yamaha says you should get more if I remember the ads correctly. Diaphrams, plugs, wires, carbs...then wrap your right wrist with ten pounds of tape and go ride... grins... Something to think about this winter... david

GW, I'm running stock everything...and can get that mileage, 160 per tank.

Fun stuff. At least it's pre-emission crap!

Wonder if they serve ice cream at the distilleries?

Pretty. Lots of bling! Good find!

Pete, Let's hope your problem is a broken hose or something. I think I saw info somewhere on site about troubleshooting the CLASS system... Maybe @Prairiehammer's memory is better than mine and he can chip in...

Morning Kevin, You are lucky I didn't need that one...saw it a few days ago! But yes, it does pay to keep the eyes on EBay! Grins!

((but it needs to be done anyway so i'll maybe eliminate that area from the list.)) Doug, That's the idea! BTW, I had a 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye that I put over 90K miles on many years ago. Went across country multiple times in that beastie...loved it! Often thought of getting another but....no more room to play with British cars!

Clarification: A number of things can cause whine noise from the drive line of a Venture: Clutch Basket Broken middle (pinion) gear shaft to U-joint (more common on 1st gens) Broken rear end shaft at the gear coupling (on my 89) Gear lash at the pinion output, shims used. Dry drive shaft at ujoint Dry rear end bearings. So we are all on the same page...Hope I got that right... david

It is...

Searching through the archives: ++++++++++++++ The primary drive gear is part of the crankshaft. The primary driven gear is the same thing as the clutch basket. There are 2 available. The normal replacement part number for the primary driven gear is 26H-16150-10-00. The stock for this part will be either an "F" or "G" size primary driven gear, which will result in acceptable gear lash with any size primary drive gear (crankshaft). In addition to the normal replacement part, an "I" size primary driven gear is available (4XY-16150-09-00). The "I" size primary driven gear is not used in normal production. It was produced to reduce the normal gear whine noise the Venture engine emits and some customers find annoying. Installation of the "I" size primary driven gear results in slightly greater gear lash. We have found this additional lash, in some cases reduces gear whine noise or it may move the peak noise level to an rpm not normally used while cruising, either of which can be more acceptable to a customer. ++++++++++++++++++++ You could just swap out the gears with the shims and it will function as long as it is not binding. BUT, you really should go through the lash adjustment procedure to do it right. The shims, and the lash adjustment procedure are to make up for the manufacturing tolerances of all of the parts. If the lash is not right, it could cause gear noise at best and/or increased gear wear and/or failure at worst. On the other hand, you could get lucky and the shims would be right. ++++++++++++++ http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1828-Download-the-Owners-and-Service-Manuals ++++++++++++ Lots more info. Don't know if any of this will help..especially if what you are hearing is the clutch basket whine. If the oil changes don't help, replace the basket. It's all good learning, though... david

Wonder how GMC goes so long on their Yukon's without a plug change. Mine were not changed at 100K service...the old ones all were gapped good and negligent wear. Now at 151K and mpg's are better now than 10 years ago. Don't understand that at all....

If you feel the gear train is sloppy, there is a lash adjustment that may help. Check the manual out..download from the tech section. I don't know about that...other than there is an excellent article with pictures somewhere on the 1st Gen tech area....since it's the same system it should apply to the 2nd Gen as well. But to reiterate: Check out different oils Take rear end system apart and clean and grease everything. In the end...if none of this helps...then the whine is clutch related and a replacement part is in order, IMHO... david

I think I would still change oil to Yamalube 20-50 and see if the noise is louder or less. My whine is nowhere as loud as Joe's. Worth the few bux to try it out. I love the video, Joe! Cool stuff.... What are those scraping noises I hear going straight?

Doug, I also have a 1st Gen 89. When I got it, it had a loud whine from rear end. Turns out, the shaft and gear going into the rear end was broken. Due to the way the rear end is designed, nothing would have ever happened as the systems are splined...but it made noise. I simply bought another rear end ($100) off of EBay and done. Now so far, no one on this site that I've found (yet) has ever broken a rear end on the 2nd Gen. But if that turns out to be the case, know that it's cheap to repair and simple to do. The only other thing I can think of, is the drive shaft is connected to a U-Joint at the output of the motor. The U-joint is under a rubber boot. If the splines on the driveshaft are dry, no grease, then you would get noise there as well. Since the scoot is new to you, taking the rear tire off, taking the rear end apart to grease everything, check bearings and do a general clean up job...is a good thing to do anyway to establish a maintenance schedule. And If I can do it, you can. Heck...with the pics and help from forum, I've torn both of my Ventures apart multiple times now and getting used to how they go together. Now that I have a pretty good idea of what to do on both bikes, and how well they are put together, I'm comfortable taking either one on any trip I want to go on. That says a lot when I don't hesitate to take 25 year old bike on a 3 hour run at 80mph across the desert! 4200 rpm, zoom! Keep us posted what you find at the dealer. P.S. Make sure the dealer torques the rear wheel back on right if they get that far...that keeps everything in alignment...

Sounds like great ride, Ed! Glad you got home safe...

Silver...like mine!

Doug, before you buy anything, suggest you change the oil. I'm running Yamahalube 20-50. Standard dino oil...not synthetic. I have very little whine. Other members have switched to synthetic and it mostly went away. I don't hear mine when running. Nothing broken, just straight cut gears. The rear end is robust. The entire shaft system is usually quite strong. Very few problems with rear ends. Yes, these motors love to run the rpm's. I've found that when normal riding, the higher up I shift, the easier it is to shift. Plus, I never use 5th gear until over 60. Found out that on a2 lane with buddies, if I stayed in 4th gear, I had plenty of rpm range to cruise at 55 to 65 and the motor wasn't stressed at all. My wife thought everything was normal. Last, make sure the tire pressure are NOT what the book says...go with the max (or close to it on front) of what the tire says. I run 38F and 42 rear. I get the best handling and wear doing that...so does everyone else. If the steering feels way to heavy for you, either change to a narrower front tire of lower the front end. Lowering front is free and takes a few hours to do. You are simply moving the shocks up an inch. Lost of info around here and highly qualified people too! There is help at any time....just ask. Plus lots of info already in the old files. Best $12 you've ever spent will be right here! david

I'm still laughing. Almost lost the old coffee on this one!

Update 8/15/15: LED's instead of reflectors - check Added HD brake/turn lights - check Done most of the maintenance so I have a baseline - check New tires - check Ignition switch relay - check Replaced left front rotor - check New Clearview - check Tilted tour pack a tad - check - but wifey wants more...hmmm. Guess I'll be tilting tour pack more! Reminder, need brace underneath. This week: Lowered front end 3/4 inch. Took long ride this morning...141 miles. Freeway and back roads. The front end feels better. Stable (got up to 90mph) but easier to handle at low speeds. Can still release bars at speed and bike tracks straight. With Pirelli tire pressures at 38F/42R cold, the bike is mucho better than when I first got it. Huge difference - tires, air pressure and lowering the front end does to the low speed handling. Almost like adding power steering to the scoot! So happy with the effort it took to do that free mod. And yes, it was an effort...mostly with the inner fairing. Holding it away with towels then hanging the bars from the ceiling was important too. Once all that was out of the way, the rest was easy. Next time I won't use a magic market...a piece of masking tape would give a cleaner edge to measure from. Only one issue with fairing upon completion: Seems with the Baron's 1 1/2 inch riser extensions...the risers come very close to hitting the inner fairing. I ended up using a 1/8th inch strip of hard rubber stuck between the inner fairing and the riser. Worked...no vibration in bars and the fairing and risers are solid together. For some reason, I don't have the space that @djh3 has...and he has basically same setup. Next? Don't know...but only another month before we hit our long riding season here in Arizona...so not much time left for maintenance!! david

Update: After lowering the front end, the middle section of the inner fairing is a cat's whisker from hitting the risers. So I found a piece of thin hard rubber strip...cut it into two inch long pieces and lifted the inner fairing enough to slide the rubber in between the risers and fairing. Fits well...can hardly see them and they don't move.

Dick, I just got finished replacing plugs on my 05 RSV. It looked like a daunting task but was quite easy. 1: Driver seat 2: gas tank 3: two top engine braces on front cylinders 4: plugs The important thing is to have the tools and patience. Take your time and think about what needs to be done next. Oh, the front plugs come out with small socket extension to loosen, then use factory tool kit tool to remove. It has the rubber holder to hold plug and remove it or put it back. Easier than trying anything else....at least for me. Lift plug straight up into hole in frame area, tilt then pull out. Lots of info here on forum...

BJ, next time you get to bar Harbor or Portland (do you ?) put it in mail then. Save lots-O-bux...I would think. But I don't know what goes on when you carry a package from A to B. Or if any members are traveling to Maine/NS this summer...maybe youse guys can meet and exchange exhaust collectors. (so to speak). Heck, If I still lived in NH, I would be up there in a flash just to take the ferry and ride your area!

Jason, that's a hoot! Now if only you took orders... Let's see: One unit to hold tiny mp3 player with gopro mount One unit to hold tiny (SD size) bluetooth receiver One unit to hold Droid ...wait...how about one unit that does all the above! Grins! david p.s. Seriously, well done...